| Author | Message | ||
     JonasKnell Unregistered guest Posted From: 118.208.242.105 |
Hi hoping someone can assist. I have a Bentley R Type 1954 standard Saloon, just recently discovered the vehicle has a rear window privacy screen, but Im not sure how to operate it? I can pull it up by hand, but I noticed it has sash type cords or runners which run on either side of it, so I assuming there must be some mechanism to actually lift it up somewhere - Anyone have any ideas????? Went through the owners manual - no reference in it - tried googling it but nothing also ..... Any assistance would be nice - thanks in Advance (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| ChristopherCarnley Unregistered guest Posted From: 217.44.224.16 |
In the Parts List it is called the "tonneau", S, W10. Above the drivers B post in the head lining is a chrome plated finger slider, connecting by a cord through fair leads to the silk/linen roll up screen. I seem to remember that the screen unrolls vertically against a spring in the roll. Shown by items (1) and (9) in the extract that I have sent to David. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 4101 Registered: 04-2003 |
Christopher Carnley has kindly provided the extract below detailing the tonneau from his archives:   | ||
| ChristopherCarnley Unregistered guest Posted From: 217.44.224.16 |
(Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Jeff Martin Frequent User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 389 Registered: 07-2018 |
My Mark VI has that blind, I believe that they were standard on the R Types as well. The blind cord was broken on mine and on other cars, the blind was very difficult to pull it up, I thought the string was going to break when operated. I found that there was quite a but of oxidization on the inside of the tubes, they were either brass or copper. The type of greenish oxidization that is powdery and gets into everything. I took a bicycle shift cable and threaded that through and then cotton string, I then tied a wad of fine steel wool to the cotton string. The idea here is to make the wad large enough so when pulled through, it removes the oxidisation and polishes the inside of the tubes. You want a big enough wad to do the job, but not so tight the string will break. Replace the wad as necessary until you can take a small pen light and it reflects the light when shone down into the tube. It was kind of a tedious operation, but it did seem to work well. I suppose some vinegar, CLR or some such product could be used to speed up the process. I then took some Armor-All and totally saturated the tubes to thoroughly coat inside. I replaced the steel wool wad with a bit of cotton rag and worked the Armor-All so to leave a film of silicone behind - I did the blind cord as well. Note that one has to leave the water in the Armor-All evaporate out of the blind cord, but the silicone stays behind. (I placed the cord on a heater to hurry this along). There are other products out there with silicone in them, but I used Armor All. I suppose a good carnauba paste wax would work well too. Note that I was restoring my interior so I didn't have to worry about the mess it made - all the felt broad cloth was removed. I can't remember if the tubes are removable, but at any rate, one has to start taking the cars panels out to get at things, they are just held in there with finishing nails through the broad cloth. The nails are driven into wood panels that are screwed into the body. When installing the panels, I took a sharp darning needle and separated the "weave" of the broad cloth to enable me to nail the panels back in place. If this is not done, the cloth can be damaged, once in place, the cloth can be worked back in place where the nails went through. The most difficult panel to re-attach was the one around the rear window, you have to drive the nails in at an angle, you can't hammer them straight in. You will need a helper for this panel. You'll figure it out. I had to make a new blind as well, post again if you need help with this, it has to be made like an isosceles trapezoid so that the edges don't bunch up. I suppose an anti fray product can be used to keep the edges from fraying, but I "seamed" mine and if done this way, making a rectangle for a blind doesn't work as the "seamed" edges bunch up on a rectangle. . |
