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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 182
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Sunday, 31 January, 2021 - 09:32:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Here are some photos of what mine looks like, looks OK _ I think it's the original one in there and not the new one from Introcar.
The fact that it isn't cracked or damaged in any way just from a visual inspection, I don't think it's the cause from the "grinding" into fourth gear, if anything, the amount of dirt in the transmission is the cause _ for now.
The synchro & cone on fourth gear looks good too, just very dirty.

At any rate, even if the thrust washer was damaged, it's no where near the fourth gear, I don't see how it could possibly effect the proper shifting of fourth gear.








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ChristopherCarnley
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 159.242.227.73
Posted on Sunday, 31 January, 2021 - 21:17:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

This is an original .175" thrust washer. When they break up, the whole of the 3rd speed gear and bearing sleeve detaches and jams the synchros, 4th speed included. Cracks start at the sharp inner corners of the splines.

When reassembled on the 3rd motion (main) shaft, there should only be a .002" to .003" gap between the adjusting washer and the shoulder on the shaft, as excessive play leads to the cracking.

What is the condition of the sliding piece and does it engage easily into the 1st motion dog teeth?
Show pictures of the synchro plates, please.

Christopher has sent me the images relating to this post - I will post these shortly




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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 184
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Monday, 01 February, 2021 - 12:05:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

There is 1 to 2 thou clearance between the thrust washer and the shoulder on the shaft, so that's fine, that would explain why the thrust washer is still intact.

It can be made to slide into first motion dog teeth if you're careful, leaving a definite pause into neutral before going into fourth.

If you put pressure on the synchro in then forcefully put it in fourth, it shifts fine, it's when you shift normally that the dog teeth grind.

I read in the service book that the synchro's should not wedge themselves on the cones like what my video shows and that polishing the cones is permissible to keep the synchro's from doing just that.

I'll have to initially use a very fine stone to get rid of the grooves on the cone left from the synchro.

Flying Spares has one first motion shaft left if I can't correct the problem. At least it's not excessively expensive at around £700.00.

https://youtu.be/_3WVpYshoeE

Edited by Moderator to include active video link.

.
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3875
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, 01 February, 2021 - 12:47:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Images supplied by Christopher Carnley for post above:

1

1: This shows what happens when the rear round shouldered bearing breaks its snap ring..

2

2: This shows associated damage to the synchro plates, all caused by aggressive gear lever "thrusting". Sent from Belgium, November 2020.

3

3: This shows the early split main shaft, RG 193, the thinned splines of which break off by synchro lug action, often due to the original use of engine oil, causing the bronze synchro liners to stick on.




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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 185
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Monday, 01 February, 2021 - 13:35:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

WOW ! What a mess, mine is quite pristine compared to that !
Those are great pictures. Thank you.
I think I have the squared shouldered bearings in mine too.
I can see that just looking at the areas where the snap ring gap is.

I know that someone has been in my gear box at some point, one of the three bolts that holds the shift slider in place has been changed to 1/4 x 28 UNF from BSF.
It's the one right next to the floor, it would be almost impossible to get at with out removing the gear box, or the floor.
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ChristopherCarnley
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 159.242.227.80
Posted on Monday, 01 February, 2021 - 19:45:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Use EP 80/90 gear oil and a dose of Slick 50 Manual Transmission treatment.

What is the condition of the bronze synchro liners, have they got the fine annular grooves?

I have used diamond plates to polish the hub cones, but it makes little difference.

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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 186
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Tuesday, 02 February, 2021 - 12:34:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

After carefully examining the bronze synchro liner on the the 4th gear, that seems to be the problem, even though the photo looks normal for number 4, they are almost worn away.
When it's compared to second gear, it's quite worn.
Unfortunately the only source for a new one that I've found so far is at Flying Spares that rings in at around 2700.00$ Canadian.



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ChristopherCarnley
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 5.62.43.178
Posted on Tuesday, 02 February, 2021 - 21:35:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Jeff,

It has been burnt by too close a contact with the 1st motion hub. People will persist with the old 30 grade engine oil.

When you read section G of the W.M. you will see that there should be an equal gap of around .025" between the end of the bridge key and each of the 3/4 synchro plates.

Flying Spares get all their bits from me, so when you see the pics that David may post I will post my email for contact.

If you have a lathe you may be able to cut some fine grooves, the originals have a spacing of less than .008", and the taper on the lining is 7 degrees.

The sliding piece is not symmetrical, and some of them have "FRONT END" engrave on them.

If you have drawn the 4th speed selector shaft too far forward, you may have dislodged the 3rd/4th 5/16" interlock ball, see diagram, and if you then remove the little selector shaft cover from the lower back, it may drop out.

The interlock is not the same as the 1/2" detent balls.
C.

I have received some additional photos from Christopher which he intends commenting on after I post them. Unfortunately, I am unable to process and post them until this evening as I have to leave now to drive to Gloucester for a family funeral.


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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3877
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Thursday, 04 February, 2021 - 08:04:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Here are Christopher's photos relating to my last comment - my apologies for the delay:

1

2

3

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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 187
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Thursday, 04 February, 2021 - 11:16:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thank you Chris, I have some reading to do.

This is my first transmission repair so bear with me, as I'm dealing with unfamiliar terminology.

What is the "bridge key" and "3/4 synchro plates" ?

You also refer to a diagram when talking about "dislodged the 3rd/4th 5/16" interlock ball", what diagram exactly ?

Yes, I do have a lathe, just got it, a Myford ML7, but I may get a machinist to do it, I can make simple things with it like bushings and such, but I don't feel comfortable with such things as this.

If I re-machine the burnt synchro, will that remove too much material and move it too close to the gear over-all ?
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ChristopherCarnley
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 5.62.43.188
Posted on Thursday, 04 February, 2021 - 22:06:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Jeff,
Download Section.G from the Workshop Manual, and also S.G from the Parts List, both on the MKVI/R Type entry on the Post War Library ,on this site, and I will come back to you.
C.

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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 188
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Friday, 05 February, 2021 - 17:38:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I do have real paper copy of both of those, although they differ slightly here and there.
I found a machinist that can recut the grooves, so I would just like to confirm things, see photo's.
Each groove is then how deep at 8 thou apart ?
And the taper is 7 degrees like I marked out ?
Thanks again.







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AlexLynch
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 220.244.177.227
Posted on Friday, 05 February, 2021 - 16:45:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Christopher Carnley,

I am also rebuilding my MK V1 gearbox, B111 JN.

From previous posts, I see that you have the square faced bearings for the first and third motion shafts.

I have a J series vehicle with the the reinforced shaft.

Can you provide me with your Email address so I could contact you directly.

Regards Lex Lynch
Registered Guest

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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 189
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Saturday, 06 February, 2021 - 05:28:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Chris, I've been reading through G section and so far I can't find anything in there that refers to a "3/4 synchro plate", synchro cone, but not plate.

Yes, the sliding piece is not symmetrical, mine is not marked front, but it can only go in one way anyway.
It can be turned around in the correct position, but turned end for end.
The dog teeth have to be fitted in their third and fourth gears respectively because they have smaller and larger diameters.

I'm still working on what "diagram" you are referring to.
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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 190
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Saturday, 06 February, 2021 - 14:24:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Here's a photo from Introcar, what can happen when the "square edged" bearing isn't used on the first motion shaft.
Take note that the bearing only has one square edge, and that goes up towards the snap ring.
I also took some time to try and find another source and came up with nothing, the bearing appears to be specially made so one has no alternative to pay the £430.55.


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ChristopherCarnley
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 159.242.227.100
Posted on Saturday, 06 February, 2021 - 21:17:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Jeff,

I was tied up all day yesterday with an S3 13/38 differential and half shafts. Everything is so tight, the drive flange nut came off with the mains ratchet, and the drive flange came off in the 30 ton press with the usual "bang".

For the driver not to be able to "catch the synchro", the R-R designers used a blocking plate type synchromesh cone, almost unique, the ramp action of the sliding piece on the cone ramps, ensures that the bronze liner is jammed on before the dog teeth make engagement.

The bridge keys (15) on the diagram, nudge the cone, as a brake, to synchronise the input with the speed of the main shaft.

I have asked David to post the pictures.

The cone angle is 7 degrees as you mark, and the tool to machine the grooves can be a HSS internal thread cutting ground thin to about 20 degrees.

There is no evidence that your cone has bottomed on the gear hub, but it is a mistake to fair face the liner. The material is heat treated phosphor bronze and very tough, so cutting should be with the lathe at high speed and next to no top rake on the tool.
In practice, you only need about half the grooves if you are using gear oil.

I have never experienced any problems with round shouldered input bearings in normal use, but as the thin lip is the only part holding the input shaft and bearing in position, I have had them knocking the whole lip off when the input shaft spigot end has been rammed against something or dropped on the floor when loose in a packing case. A square edged bearing won't prevent this, and the spring clip never moves, as its ends anchor it. It is false information.

The back bearing causes the problems, it is loose in the housing as the bore in the aluminium housing enlarges when it gets hot in use as it is not an interference fit.

Alex,

If your square edge bearings are not corroded with obvious pits, it is a waste of money to replace them "for the job". In normal use and well lubricated, they should last indefinitely.

At about £560 for the pair in a batch of 20, I never replace them, if they are in good nick.

Chris. carnley3rt@btinternet.com

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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3880
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Sunday, 07 February, 2021 - 10:04:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jeff,

Christopher's email address in the above post has a typo error, the correct address is:

carnley3rt@btinternet.com

Christopher has forwarded the following parts diagrams for me to post on his behalf as mentioned in the above thread:

1

2


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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 191
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Sunday, 07 February, 2021 - 23:04:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Chris, it's all coming together in my head now.
You mentioned the word "thread" when referring to the bronze synchro cone, is it a thread (spiral) or just individual grooves cut one at a time ?
If it is a thread, that could throw a wrench in things.

Lex, I would like to see what is wrong with your transmission, if you could post some photo's of the failed bits, posting actual photo's on a thread like this becomes invaluable to others who would like to work on their own stuff, but never had the courage to do so.
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ChristopherCarnley
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 5.62.43.139
Posted on Monday, 08 February, 2021 - 00:07:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jeff,

No, not a spiral, but a "thread cutting tool", ie for cutting threads, but ground thin.
They are individual grooves.

The interlock ball mentioned previously is No 2, in Group G7.

The parts in the Biro,ed box are in the 1st speed detent roller, fitted to cars from the N series, on.

Curiously, the 1936 on Lagonda G10, (big horrible Bentley/Sewell monster) has duralumin synchro liners, with a continuous screw thread for the oil tension release groove.

All the MK VI/R Type and S1 main shafts are the same part, be it RG193 or RG5469 etc, but the early one had the spline milled out for the thin sliding key, the others had altered thrust washer grooves, and thicker washers.

Alex, so would I.
C.

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Bill Vatter
Experienced User
Username: bill_vatter

Post Number: 133
Registered: 09-2004
Posted on Tuesday, 09 February, 2021 - 01:19:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Chris,

Regarding the square-edge bearing issue, I understand the problem is that the contact of a standard, rounded-edge bearing against the retaining ring would be at a location on the retaining ring a small distance away from the bore of the housing. Then when pressure occurs, the force on the retaining ring creates a lever effect, breaking the housing bore. The square edge bearing avoids that by placing the contact at the bore, and there is no lever effect.

Axial force described above is a natural result of the helical gear connection of first and second motion shafts and cannot be avoided.

Did I get that right?
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ChristopherCarnley
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 5.62.43.251
Posted on Tuesday, 09 February, 2021 - 03:24:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Bill,
You did.

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AlexanderLynch
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 220.244.177.227
Posted on Friday, 12 February, 2021 - 19:49:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi David, I registered 07/20 user name" lex lynch" with a keychain password but i am unable to to access my account, please advise
regards Alex Lynch.

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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3882
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Saturday, 13 February, 2021 - 10:14:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Alexander,

Unfortunately I do not have access to the Users File to see what is the current status of this registration. Please contact the Forum Administrator using the link below:

admin@rrforums.net

Your previous registration as Alex Lynch was last active in 2002 as far as I can find from searching our archives.

Have you tried using the forum "Lost Password" to try and recover your access for this User Name?

1. Open the Forum and click on "EDIT PROFILE" in the top right-hand corner.

2. A page headed Profile Editor will open with a box headed Log In with data entry boxes for Username [Alex Lynch] and Password [leave blank].

3. There is a link "click here to restore access" with format http://au.rrforums.net/cgi-bin/forum/board-profile.pl?action=forgot

4. This opens a new page headed "Recover Forgotten Password" with boxes for Username and Email Address. I would only enter one of these being your email address and hit the "Continue" button. If this does not work, repeat the process with Alex Lynch as the username and no email address.

5. If both of these don't work, try entering both your Username and Email Address and see what happens.

6. If successful, this should result in an email with an activation key for your account. Reopen the Profile Editor page and enter the activation key using the link provided on the bottom of the page and all should return to normal.

7. If this fails, you will have to rely on our Administrator to reactivate your account - as the Moderator, I do not have this capability..........

8. Good luck and I hope this succeeds - if not, I am happy to continue posting on your behalf as above.

P.S. Your IP address has changed from the one used for your 2002 posts.
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Alexander Lynch
New User
Username: lex_lynch

Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2020
Posted on Sunday, 14 February, 2021 - 12:18:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thank you David, I think I have that sorted
Regards Lex
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3883
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Sunday, 14 February, 2021 - 13:02:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Alexander,

Yes you have succeeded - looking forward to your future contributions.

Welcome back......
David
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Alexander Lynch
New User
Username: lex_lynch

Post Number: 5
Registered: 07-2020
Posted on Sunday, 14 February, 2021 - 15:44:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Report on rebuild of gearbox for 1950 Bentley B111 JN - Alex Lynch.

Thank you to Christopher C for clarifying the continued use of the square edge bearings.

The reason for this rebuild was that on the final leg of a trip to Western Australia, we arrived in Margaret River where I selected reverse without using the clutch. I live in Melbourne 3,500 K away, so I was somewhat traumatised by the prospect of returning home with a damaged gearbox, the trip however proved uneventful.

2nd Motion Shaft

Pic 1 second motion shaft with chipped tooth. I copied the Service Manuals from this site and also had on hand the Spare Parts Manual with the exploded drawings. Also purchased was an early gearbox salvaged from a bushfire damaged vehicle. This was dismantled first to give me the experience interpreting both the manual and the physical components. I have kept my original gearbox and transferred the first and second motion shafts as they are paired and kept my upgraded third motion shaft with the modified bridge, plungers and sliding piece.

Gears

Pic 2 Gears and cones were transferred from the early third motion shaft together with reverse gear. There were two occasions where initially I had trouble understanding the manual, “Dismantling the Gearbox” (xix) …removing the 5/16 balls from the third and fourth speed selector shafts and the removal of the first speed gear.

1st motion shaft

bearing

Pic 3 & 4 I have ordered new tapered, centre and servo bearings but retained both square edged first and third motion shaft bearings as they show no signs of wear.

1st Motion Cone

Pic 5 first motion shaft cone

This is where I have progressed to to date, with the arrival of the bearings the final set up and reassembly can proceed.

.
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Alexander Lynch
New User
Username: lex_lynch

Post Number: 6
Registered: 07-2020
Posted on Wednesday, 17 February, 2021 - 20:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

When I dismantled the third motion shaft from the Gear Box in B111 JN this spacer was between the worm of the servo unit and the first race of the rear bearing. In the doner gear box there was no such spacer in this position so I feel that the last person placed it there possibly to get a nip on the nut of the rear flange which is unnecessary as there is .090 between the adjusting washer and the machined flange which is within specs.
Washer

View 2
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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 192
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Thursday, 18 February, 2021 - 01:37:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Placing it there looks like it's going to move the entire third motion shaft back into the transmission the thickness of the spacer.
This would effect the position of the centre bearing, fork position and many other things.
Maybe the casting was different in your car and it needs to be there.

The third motion shaft "square edge bearing" inner race places the position of the shaft's out-put flange and has no effect on the threads in that respect.
That's assuming the spacer goes where you said it is.

If you moved the spacer where the red arrow is, then doing that would simply move the out-put flange toward the back of the car and would reduce the amount of threads on the third motion shaft.
Where you have it now will move the entire third motion shaft toward the front of the car.


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ChristopherCarnley
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 5.62.43.244
Posted on Wednesday, 17 February, 2021 - 20:58:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

See parts list drawing G9 above. No 27 is the adjusting washer to fill the gap in the drive flange and prevent preload on the bearing, No 30 is the nut washer.

One fool, upon reading an amateur article where the "mechanic" had ground metal of the inner race, declared that the bearing is under preload.

The bearing has a C3 fit, quite loose as it get hot in service, and closing up the races makes the balls skid.

The washer in your pic should just fit into the recess in the drive flange.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Alexander Lynch
New User
Username: lex_lynch

Post Number: 7
Registered: 07-2020
Posted on Thursday, 18 February, 2021 - 21:51:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Yes, I rather think I got my sequence of parts out of order. thank you all for your feed back. I will post another report with photographs as I get to the assembly stage of the box.
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3886
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Sunday, 21 February, 2021 - 07:44:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Christopher Carnley has provided more information as below, my apologies for the delay as I have been having problems with my mobile broadband and phone connection since returning to Sydney last Thursday.

973

Notes for pic 1. Build up to this stage fit the Jubilee clips on tightly, check that the sliding piece will engage into the 3rd speed driven gear dogs.

This gear should revolve quite freely on its bushes or selection will be difficult.

If you add the second speed parts, it is very difficult to juggle the forks on.

Grease lightly the outside of the bearing.

Place the selector forks into the bottom of the casing, noting that one fits "upside down" to the other.

975

Pic 2. Push the reverse cluster forward.

Insert the main shaft as shown. Cock up the end of the back end of the shaft and fit the 1/2 fork. Drop the back end and fit the 3/4 fork.

Heat the central alloy bearing bridge with a blow torch for about 30-40 seconds, juggle the bearing into the orifice whilst easing the forks with left and right hands.

This avoids hammering and dislodging the plungers.

You may have to push the reverse cluster back.

Drop the forks onto the pegs and then fit the locating shaft from the front. The 1/2 fork is a bit tricky.

Remove the front clip and fit the 4th speed cone the right way round and onto the central spline.

Fit the 14 rollers into the 1st motion gear and its assembly cup. Fit the assembly and the 6 nuts and spring washers.

Fit the 2nd speed synchro, its chamfered adjusting washer the gear with bushes and then the thick chamfered adjusting washer, then a clip as shown in pic 3. There should be about a .002" -,003" gap between the washer and the flanged bronze bush.

976

Notice that the years of EP oils have not caused any "yellow metal hysteria" deterioration.

.
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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 193
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Sunday, 21 February, 2021 - 14:12:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

That orange/yellowish coating on the inside of the aluminum casing looks like orange shellac, is that what it is ?
There's run marks of the stuff that makes me think that someone in a hurry with a big sloppy brush applied it.
The colour of it looks just like shellac, I put a bit of paint stripper on it, but it didn't really touch it.
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ChristopherCarnley
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 80.75.64.70
Posted on Sunday, 21 February, 2021 - 20:49:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jeff,

It is factory applied long oil varnish, with a hardener.
It is to counteract any porosity.

The later R Type and Continental gearboxes do not have this internal finish.

The only occasions when it has been seen to degrade are when the car has been fire damaged or serious internal oxidation of the alloy has occurred.

C.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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marktaxis
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 144.134.5.170
Posted on Wednesday, 24 February, 2021 - 06:05:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Before I started reading this post I was aware that my knowledge of gearbox operation was limited, now I realise it is pretty much non-existent!
As a matter of interest What would be a ball park figure for a complete rebuild of one of these gearboxes

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 194
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Wednesday, 24 February, 2021 - 10:06:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Mark, what are the symptoms of your transmission where you think it needs rebuilding ?
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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 195
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Wednesday, 24 February, 2021 - 14:02:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Chris,
I'm getting ready to cut the grooves on the 4th synchro cone and I've taken some practice runs on a piece of brass, even at 10 thou, the grooves seem much finer then the close up of the 2nd gear synchro cone, or maybe they are that fine on 4th gear ?
Also, there seems to be a lot of meat left on the top end of the grooves on 2nd gear, yet in your photos it appears to be a sharp point, or maybe it's just "wear" on the 2nd gear synchro cone ?
Should I be leaving some meat on the top of the grooves ?

8 thou just seems really fine and only 2 thou deep, the original grooves just didn't seem that fine.
I think I also have to grind my bit closer to 20 degrees.
I don't want to bugger it up, I don't think the local auto store has a new synchro in stock.


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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3889
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Thursday, 25 February, 2021 - 12:54:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jeff,

Chris Carnley has asked me to post the following drawings with the comment below:

"I should have checked what I wrote"!

1

2

3

.
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3890
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Thursday, 25 February, 2021 - 13:03:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Wait there is more from Chris:

"Final "scrap", the "direct gear" is 4th speed."

4

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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 196
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Thursday, 25 February, 2021 - 16:03:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Perfect, I'm glad I asked !
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3892
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Friday, 26 February, 2021 - 07:59:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Christopher and Jeff,

Thanks to both of you for your contributions to this thread which I am certain will be most useful for other owners and custodians of early post-WW2 vehicles.

I have enjoyed facilitating and posting your invaluable contributions.

Now I am awaiting Jeff posting pictures and the details of his car returning to "active service".

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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 197
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Friday, 26 February, 2021 - 13:40:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thank you David, Chris and others, this is my first transmission, and with out the very useful photos and info, it would have been quite difficult to get through it.
I'm still waiting on the modified thrust washer from IntroCar, I'm contemplating just using the old one.
It's been in there for more then 20 years and it's done fine so far.
Just setting up the lathe to cut the grooves in the synchro cone.
I plan on assembling it in a different way which will also make it far easier getting it back into the car, I will post that when the time comes with photos.

Things will move along kind of slow, dialysis eats up about 6 hours 3 days a week, I run, cycle and work out with weights and look after the house and sleep a lot.
I still need to work on the suspension before winter sets in, 2021.

The nice thing about this is it's not a car that has to be on the road as a daily driver, it's in a heated garage and I can work on it anytime I want and enjoy myself.
This is me in front of my time trial bike for anyone who wants to what I look like.



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