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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 101
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Tuesday, 21 July, 2020 - 14:47:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Vented or non-vented, the non-vented one can be modified for use with the Gunson Easy-Bleeder.

The one from Intro-car is £30.50

I will be using the non-vented cap in the end and will be creating my own vent system.
I ordered two of them, they are actually black anodized aluminum _ very nicely made.

The problem with the RR one, is that even in a heated garage, the master cylinder is near the concrete floor where it's cold _ this in turn can cause moisture which is other wise held in suspension to accumulate in the vent present vent system.
Haven't decided what I'm going to do yet, but I intend to at least run a line at a higher point where the air is warmer.
I may even install one of those disposable moisture traps in line used for a compressor when spraying.

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/brakes-c42/brake-system-c43/master-cylinder-filler-cap-non-vented-for-use-with-fbk901-remote-top-up-kit-p829339

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/brakes-c42/brake-system-c43/master-cylinder-filler-cap-vented-original-p829355
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carnley3rt@btinternet.com
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 86.150.171.145
Posted on Tuesday, 21 July, 2020 - 19:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The inner vented insert is essential!!!!!!
The large rear return hole in the cylinder is directly below the filler cap and when the pedal is released it creates a vertical plume of hydraulic fluid, such that if there is no blanking insert, the reservoir will, and does self empty.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 102
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Wednesday, 22 July, 2020 - 12:39:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I was wondering when someone was going to point that out to me.
Yes, I know about that little hole and the erupting volcano of fluid that happens.
I'll post some pictures of my own set up when I'm done with it.

The original set up was inherently flawed, brake fluid eventually enters the cap and stays there.

This in turn attracts water and starts corrosion of the white metal, or aluminum (what ever it's made of) of the inside of the filler cap.

Eventually it gets plugged right up with corrosion and it no longer vents.

There is no way to take apart the cap and clean it.

The worst part about the system is the hygroscopic brake fluid, the rather large bores of the master and slave cylinders and the somewhat poor seals on the whole thing.

There is always a thin film of fluid on the master cylinder on the inside, this attracts moisture quite easily given the large surface of the bore _ the dust seal does not do a good job of keeping out moisture.

Once the moisture gets in there, the whole thing snow balls pretty quick into a big rusty mess.

I suppose if someone were to replace the fluid every year, but I can't be bothered, so I'm using silicone brake fluid, it's in my Jaguar and all the problems that are supposed to happen didn't.
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Bill Vatter
Experienced User
Username: bill_vatter

Post Number: 122
Registered: 09-2004
Posted on Friday, 24 July, 2020 - 00:08:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I change brake fluid every 2 years, which seems to be frequently enough to keep everything healthy. If you enjoy working on your car it isn't a problem. If you don't enjoy working on the car, you have the wrong car.
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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 105
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Friday, 24 July, 2020 - 12:49:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

OK, you win, I'll put it up for sale tomorrow...

Upon looking at modern cars, the brake system is totally isolated from the atmosphere with a rubber bladder or bellows in the cap, I will come up with something similar.
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer

Post Number: 2337
Registered: 09-2004
Posted on Saturday, 25 July, 2020 - 05:13:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I enjoy working on my eight + cars, but sometimes they can be a problem, would never consider thinking they are the wrong cars though.




All good fun and keeping up with the past and the future!

Tesla electrics mcu and door handles are common problems I have heard, time will tell.

The Citroen dash repair soon if I can see the terminals to solder.

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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3746
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Saturday, 25 July, 2020 - 08:46:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick,

If your eyes are like mine - a robotic work station is the only way I could do fine work like this.

Big hand movements converted to corresponding small tool movements by robotics.

My eye problem is made worse by astigmatism and the fact I have no depth perception abilities due to not being able to use both eyes as a pair after problems I experienced as a young child.

Makes driving in confined situations very difficult as I cannot judge distances accurately.

.
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carnley3rt@btinternet.com
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 109.159.182.150
Posted on Saturday, 25 July, 2020 - 18:18:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

It is unusual to see two Jowett Jupiters and what looks like a Bradford, behind, so what is the attraction for Yorkshire made flat engined cars?

Made in the township of Idle, near Bradford.

My first runabout was a 2 cylinder Bradford,and had already done more than 250,000 miles.
I drive V W these days and would not swap them.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer

Post Number: 2340
Registered: 09-2004
Posted on Sunday, 26 July, 2020 - 05:07:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David, yes reversing is my greatest problem in old cars.
Came to grief (head damage) on a M/C many years ago!
Will look into getting a large magnifying glass that lights up the work.

Christopher back in the Sixties Jowetts had gone out of production and the cars for sale were at a price that I could afford, not many folk wanted them.
Well spotted, the Bradford was the old school type of design, this one I have owned since 1969.
Utility CC with double de clutching and a crash box, great fun to drive with worm and peg steering.
Later progressed to the Javelins (still have my first one passing away in a part of the garden)
very advanced for the time if you could master the systems.
Crank case depression with a pintle valve was a modern design back then in 49-50s.
Torsion bars front and rear with Panhard rod etc.
Buying and selling many them then on to the Jupiters
I think there is still the Idle Men's working club Going in Bradford.

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Bill Vatter
Experienced User
Username: bill_vatter

Post Number: 124
Registered: 09-2004
Posted on Sunday, 26 July, 2020 - 05:39:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Delightful little Jowett Jupiter. By comparison a Mk VI Bentley is an ordinary car.
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3747
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Sunday, 26 July, 2020 - 09:08:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick,

When things get back to normal and I can travel safely again, be prepared for a knock on your door from me to see your eclectic vehicle collection and to reminisce about our contacts over several decades [John Dare excluded!!].

Each new image you post never ceases to amaze me......

Good luck with the magnifying glass, I have a big illuminated magnifying lamp which helps seeing the item to be worked on up to a certain size but my hand/eye co-ordination is not as good as it used to be.....................

The only long-term cure will be a robotic work station that gets around the problem whenever precision work is required.
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer

Post Number: 2343
Registered: 09-2004
Posted on Monday, 27 July, 2020 - 18:17:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David you are welcome any time, you may need a few days.

A job over the weekend=== the water pump on the Jupiter has been leaking so a trip to one of the sheds to the Jowett spares wow those were the days


14/6d for the water pump impellor.







and the rebuilt pump with some mods carried out, hope it will see me out!



BTW the pump shaft I replaced due to corrosion just hope the alloy crank cases are not getting in the same state.

thinking about putting some lathe cutting solution diluted in with the coolant.

Original shaft some seventy years old.

Hope to fit pump to the car in the next few days.



should the posting be moved to some other topic maybe!
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Jeff Martin
Experienced User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 107
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Tuesday, 28 July, 2020 - 02:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Or Another forum ?

What does it matter though.
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3749
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 28 July, 2020 - 09:58:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jeff,

All old vehicles have problems where the rectification techniques may also be applicable to R-R/B vehicles and it is often difficult to transfer the posts to another more appropriate thread without disrupting the continuity of the original thread.

Patrick,

From past experience, DO NOT use lathe cutting fluid in the coolant; I tried using soluble oil in my 351CID Ford V8 years ago to reduce wear on the water pump seals; the wear was significantly reduced but any skin contact with the coolant afterwards would quickly result in a severe case of dermatitis due to bacterial contamination of the coolant induced by the presence of the cutting oil.

The cure proved to be worse than the disease!!

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