| Author | Message | |||
     Graham Watson New User Username: graham508 Post Number: 9 Registered: 3-2016 |
Hi all, On my MKVI the driver's door has a quick lift window regulator. I notice a lot of travel on the handle before the glass starts to lift. Is this normal? If not is there any way to rebuild it? Thanks | |||
| Martin Webster Unregistered guest Posted From: 103.241.140.82 |
Graham, I had exactly the same problem on my HJM B88HR. It necessitated removing the door cards and the metal shield under that and removing the regulator mechanism. It's a bit of a palaver to remove. The quick lift mechanism gear teeth need to be recut and you may find that due to years of use that the attachments are loose too. I will try to locate some photos if you are interested. Martin (Message approved by david_gore) | |||
| Chris Gillings Prolific User Username: chrisg Post Number: 102 Registered: 4-2001 |
This may help a bit.
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| Graham Watson New User Username: graham508 Post Number: 10 Registered: 3-2016 |
Many thanks Martin and Chris, Martin, if you could find some photos that would be great. Chris, That is super article am leaving on a trip right now and printing it out to take with me! Cheers Graham | |||
| Martin Webster Unregistered guest Posted From: 109.151.66.155 |
Graham, I have looked at the Praeclarum article that Chris provided and my window lifter is completely different . It was fitted by HJM and I think that as it had to be fitted to the aluminium and wooden frame within the door, it's dimensions were somewhat different. I will attempt to post the images later. Martin (Message approved by david_gore) | |||
| Christian S. Hansen Grand Master Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 493 Registered: 4-2015 |
Martin... My first MkVI Bentley had the same mechanism as in the article. Both mine and that in the article are for the standard steel body and since yours is coachbuilt may vary although the theory of operation is still likely the same or very similar and given that they are a simple mechanism without any electrical gizmos to complicate matters, you will probably find that upon removal, observation, and necessary disassembly, the problem will become quite apparent and will most likely be either wear in the components or a wear induced failure of some sort. Mine had already worn out after a mere 20 years of occcasional use over 50,000 miles and so, unlike other components in the basically "can last essentially forever with care and lubrication" EPW models, the winder mechanism is apparently prone to failure relatively early on in that progression of events. As said, a close look will likely tell all. . | |||
| Graham Watson Experienced User Username: graham508 Post Number: 11 Registered: 3-2016 |
Hi Martin, I think Christian is right and once I pull it apart I will see where the trouble is. Going to try to get to it this weekend. Will post some pictures if I find anything interesting. | |||
| Graham Watson Experienced User Username: graham508 Post Number: 12 Registered: 3-2016 |
I pulled the lifter out and found that the plate that was broken in the Pareclarum article was not broken but the square hole in it has rounded out. I will attach a picture. Anyone have any ideas on how I can fix this? Also in the Pareclarum article I noticed there was some sort of insert in the square hole. I did not find any insert or evidence of one when I took apart the lifter. As always many thanks for the advice. Cheers  | |||
| Graham Watson Experienced User Username: graham508 Post Number: 14 Registered: 3-2016 |
I am going to try and repair by filling and re-squaring the center hole. If that fails will get a new part made up. Chris from Flying Spares sent me an email that they have a used one, thought I would pass that along if anyone is interested. | |||
| Christian S. Hansen Grand Master Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 507 Registered: 4-2015 |
Graham... I would propose that the insert from the article was probably a workaround fix for the problem that you are having, that is, it was not original but resulted from the attempt to fill in and square the hole. You might try something similar. . | |||
| Graham Watson Experienced User Username: graham508 Post Number: 16 Registered: 3-2016 |
Well I tried filling and re-squaring the hole and the compound I used to fill it with (JB Weld) was not up to the task. Is it possible to weld this type of metal? I am reluctant to press a square tube into the part as I am afraid I will fracture it. | |||
| Christian S. Hansen Grand Master Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 509 Registered: 4-2015 |
Prepare your square insert from copper such that its ID is a slip fit on the OD of the square winder drive stub. Open the hole in the winder mechanism base and square it up such that the ID is a tight fit on the OD of the insert. If necessary, slot one corner of the insert so that it can reduce in OD slightly (like a split pin would) when lightly pressed/inserted into the base. Epoxy into position. Done | |||
| Graham Watson Experienced User Username: graham508 Post Number: 17 Registered: 3-2016 |
Thank you Christian I will try that approach. | |||
| CHRISTOPHER Unregistered guest Posted From: 86.176.214.33 |
All these repair products are far too brittle in use, as are the super glues and bearing retaining fluids, outside their static parameters. The mechanism (and materials) was never up to the job, and many such were replaced by the conventional wind up type in the 1950,s (Message approved by david_gore) | |||
| Graham Watson Experienced User Username: graham508 Post Number: 18 Registered: 3-2016 |
Hi Christopher, I know, why pot metal in the first place? I see that the quick lift disappears on the R type. If the copper bush attempt fails I am going to find a machine shop to make a new plate. |
The Single Throw Window Winder