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Mark Anson
Frequent User
Username: bentleybloke

Post Number: 13
Registered: 11-2004
Posted on Saturday, 11 December, 2004 - 23:45:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi All, Just off to work with my car to steam clean the radiator and water system out on B72DA. Can someone please tell me how many litres of anti-freeze I should put in my car to protect it? I am not sure of the cars cooling capacity and don't want to make the mixture too weak.
Thanking you in advance.
Regards Mark
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 489
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, 12 December, 2004 - 01:11:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Your cooling system capacity is 18 litres. You should have minimum 30% pure ethylene glycol (antifreeze) year round. It is just as important in Summer and Winter alike to preserve the system.

You need 5 1/2 litres of concentrate. Be sure it if it is a mix or not which you buy: pure antifreeze is good for -60C, so check the packaging. A 30% solution freezes at -16C. If you do buy a mix, make sure it is good for -16C.
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Mark Anson
Frequent User
Username: bentleybloke

Post Number: 14
Registered: 11-2004
Posted on Sunday, 12 December, 2004 - 20:56:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thank you Richard, I'm just going outside to do the antifreeze now. Could anybody tell me the best place to buy a new radiator cap (in UK)? Mine does not seal properly and when the engine is hot and Im driving, water comes out from under the cap.
Cheers Mark
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 490
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, 12 December, 2004 - 21:24:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Caps are expensive but are available in the UK from the regulars (Introcar, Flying Spares, Jack Barclay, Brian Thompson etc). The price landed at your home would be about A$150 or more new, and good secondhand would be rare.

On cars before the Shadow, replacing the rubber sealing ring at the base is usually all that's needed unless the cap is broken. Any Crewe outlet will sell you the seal for a song. You can always match one at an industrial supplier like Blackwoods, or make one from a sheet of neoprene if they have none in stock.

The cap is passive, and hence not critical, as the steam valve is a separate device. It just needs to seal properly. My R-Type has its original cap, but with probably its tenth seal.
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Martin Cutler
Frequent User
Username: martin

Post Number: 18
Registered: 10-2004
Posted on Monday, 13 December, 2004 - 08:13:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

hehehe, made me laugh Richard! I can just see Mark walking into a RR dealer, with a thundering rendition of "New York, New York", in exchange for a rubber gasket.
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Mark Anson
Frequent User
Username: bentleybloke

Post Number: 15
Registered: 11-2004
Posted on Tuesday, 14 December, 2004 - 06:01:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Well I'm a little upset today ....after my hard work on Sunday changing the anti freeze it looks like somebody has stabbed a screwdriver through my radiator overnight!! I can see a scratch on the chrome grill and fresh damage in the radiator cooling fins...oh and a steady stream of fresh anti freeze leaking out!!!

Unfortunately I do not have a garage at the moment and have to park my Bentley and Daimler on the front driveway.

Can anybody tell me how hard it is to remove the radiator please? I will have to take it out and get it repaired. Also I need a new brass? bleed screw that sits in the thermostat housing. It sheared off but I can unscrew it.

Many thanks Mark
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 491
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 14 December, 2004 - 07:02:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I fitted a new radiator to my R-Type last year. It's certainly not the first time I have removed the radiator by any means.

Start with the bonnet off, and of course hoses etc.

Difficulty: IOD (It All Depends).

If the mudguards have not been removed for decades, that is a problem: expect sheared bolts as you remove them. You need to remove at least the front 8 bolts on each side.

The centre valence apron may be tricky too as it must come off.

Then, swing both mudguards outwards to release the radiator and grille.

Then there is that last nasty: That BAS***D bolt. It is removeable only after the valence has been removed. It can be unbolted from the front of the car with a socket wrench and extension, and goes through the bracket on the front crossbeam, through the radiator, and into the thread behind. The headlamp, foglamp and horns wiring harness gets in the way too.

RT.
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 492
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 14 December, 2004 - 07:10:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Oh, and unless it's a cosmetic issue, forget that sheared "bleed" screw if it doesn't leak. It is to locate the thermostat bypass port, not a bleed screw at all. The thermostat has a bleed blip anhow.

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