| Author | Message | ||
     tpickering@aol.com Unregistered guest Posted From: 124.182.161.106 |
Could any one help with the part number for the tool to remove and install camshaft bearings on the 4.5 EPW engine please. Thank you Trevor Pickering (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| christopher carnley Unregistered guest Posted From: 31.51.24.203 |
The white metal lining is undersized,and I am assuming that you will be obtaining a set from Jack Barclay? Note that the oil holes are at different locations in the cam bores. The camshaft bearing removal tool is RH 613, and stands for Rolls-Hythe,as it was a Hythe Road service tool. The bush reaming tool is RH 562, and is a version of the Martell reamer, originally designed in the USA for line boring / reaming new car engines. You will probably have to make your own tackle. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.120.167 |
I just use a piece of M12 studding and very thick washer with a step in it and asleeve for the ejected brg room to clear the housing. Warning. If a long stud is used so that it goes through all the brgs and the front of the engine is used to jack on then things can break which is expensuve. So try to exact each brg by only jacking on that brgs housing. Also the cam brgs are only changed if they are worn or damaged not as a matter of course. To check fit camshaft and lift with small pinch bar keeping a finger on the cam and housing at the same time. Also if oil is used and the oil moving when the cam is lfted with the small pinch bar then the running clearance is about max. But the cam journals could be worn. So If a lathe is available turn a camshaft journal size using a piece of soft steel. And use this to assess wear in the brgs. Plug gauge. Also check out the thrust come end float brgs (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 3200 Registered: 4-2003 |
The shells are unfinished, and the holes are not all on the same place.
Well. Whenever overhauling an R-Type engine I have had the block fully cleaned either in brine (minor overhaul in 1974) or in a full tank (1980 and later on motors other than my own 750’000km gem). In each case (OK I have only put four fully in the tanks so far) the camshaft bearings will be leached and in need of replacement, a reasonable call on a significant rebuild when the components alone total £7,000 before you consider another £100 for camshaft bearings and all the machine work in n engine shop. It would be sad not to fit new camshaft bearings when overhauling these motors. Hythe Road tools are long gone, obsolete, and a quality machine shop will press in the bearings and line bore them. Barclays can indeed ewsource unfinished camshaft bearings, but that is not the only source these days. A search on this site will even show a set of camshaft profiles and valve spring design data for these fine 4 ½ L motors. RT. | ||
| christopher carnley Unregistered guest Posted From: 31.51.24.203 |
See the "Service Manual",/ "Service Handbook", and R Type supplement to the MK VI Workshop Manual. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| tpickering Unregistered guest Posted From: 58.169.243.241 |
Thank you for the replies My bearings will require replacement as the white metal is well worn and starting to break up. I have checked the shaft between centers and there is less than .001 runout and only .0005 wear. The new bushes are on the way from Jack Barclay 78 GBP The correct tool RH613 (thank you Christopher) has "registers" on it that allow the oil holes in the bushes to correctly line up with the holes in the block. Thanks again Trevor (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| christopher carnley Unregistered guest Posted From: 86.181.211.147 |
I had to make one, 1 metre of 18 mm HT threaded rod, with pullers and drawers turned from EN40B. Then I had to bore the middle out of an adjustable 2" reamer, to make the "Martell" reamer!!!! C (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Trevor pickering New User Username: commander1 Post Number: 7 Registered: 6-2012 |
Thank you Christopher Do you have a picture of your set up including your copy of the Martell reamer please? all the best Trevor Pickering | ||
| christopher carnley Unregistered guest Posted From: 86.173.13.113 |
Trevor, As bad luck would have it, I lent them to a friend to work on a 4.9 litre engine. He then decided to leave his trouble and strife ,and move home. "They are there somewhere". The puller is fairly straightforward,just slightly smaller than the bore of the block, but you need a drilled dolly or two to keep the things in line. (Then you can always drift them out with a long steel 2.125" (or thereabouts)bar. The 2" reamer is now a big problem, as I was very lucky to get some old stock. However there is a decent paper back from the USA on rebuilding the Model T Ford engine, that gives a very simple fly cutting boring bar arrangement, and the method of setting the tool, which I have also used in the past. Have you spoken to a machine shop about the project? (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Trevor pickering New User Username: commander1 Post Number: 8 Registered: 6-2012 |
Thanks again. I am shortly taking the block to the shop to have new full length liners fitted and will speak to them about the camshaft bearings. I am currently in the Uk and will try and locate some tooling here. Removing the old bearings should be fairly easy but lining up the new ones so that the oil holes are correct could prove to be a problem for me. all the best Trevor | ||
| christopher carnley Unregistered guest Posted From: 86.168.246.91 |
The R-R service tools had a stop to prevent the bush turning in the bore as it was pulled in, and this is a real problem. The full length liners may not be the phosphoric iron ones that were used on the R Type engine bored out and sleeved to 4.9 litres and the S1. (Message approved by david_gore) |
