| Author | Message | ||
     Mark Taxis Frequent User Username: mark_taxis Post Number: 57 Registered: 4-2007 |
I sent the distributor to a performance ignition in Melbourne, they suggested replacing the twin points with a single. This involved using a Bosch shaft with 6 cams I agreed to this and they have just returned the rebuilt distributor - the uneven Idle has now gone and I have a single point system using $10 points. From the outside no difference. I am very happy with the result  | ||
| Martin Cutler Prolific User Username: martin_cutler Post Number: 168 Registered: 7-2007 |
Hi Mark, How much did they charge, and what is the turn around time? Cheers Marty | ||
| Mark Taxis Frequent User Username: mark_taxis Post Number: 59 Registered: 4-2007 |
Hi Marty The cost was $350, Turnaround time about 4 days + postal time to and fro. | ||
| Jeff Martin Experienced User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 136 Registered: 07-2018 |
Hi Mark, I noticed that your distributor is not parallel with the cam cover, did you have to move it that way after they changed it to a 6 lobe cam ? | ||
| Mark Taxis Experienced User Username: mark_taxis Post Number: 191 Registered: 04-2007 |
Hi Jeff, I don't really remember but I think it was always in this position | ||
| Jeff Martin Experienced User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 137 Registered: 07-2018 |
Thanks, I'm going to assume then that it wasn't put in that position after Performance Ignition modified it to a 6 lobe cam to get the timing right. I'll contact them too. It not being symmetrical would really bug me. I also see you have some asbestos wrap on the exhaust manifolds, how well does that work in keeping the heat away from things ? I have a 6 lobe cam from a Chev distributor that takes a 3/8 shaft size, the same as the Bentley, so it fits right on. I'm going to put that in there and see if it makes a difference with the idle. I'll have to use the cap from the Chev as the key is different from RR. I find the duel points are very high maintenance. I can set the points up and synchronize them just right, drive it around for a couple of days and they can be out by as much as 10 degrees. The smallest thing affects them, like the slightest wear on the points, or the bedding in of the points, it's a real pain in the ass. With the dwell continually changing from such a finicky design, it's impossible to get it to idle smooth. | ||
| Trevor Pickering Experienced User Username: commander1 Post Number: 148 Registered: 06-2012 |
Why not just replace the points with a Powerspark electronic module? A very simple conversion that only takes a few minutes and can not be seen! This also adjust the dwell angle as well. The cost is around $100. I have this in my Silver Cloud 3 and my 1953 Silvsr Wraith and have covered thousands of trouble free smooth running miles | ||
| Jeff Martin Experienced User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 139 Registered: 07-2018 |
Ah yes, the electronic ignition replacement... I've been stranded by Lumenition failure, I was 25 miles home and 175.00 dollars poorer from the tow. I've had Pertronix units fail right out of the box as well. While I am sure the Power Spark units may be more reliable, the heat from the inline six's that is generated from the exhaust manifold will shorten the life of any electronic unit inside the distributor. Another problem I read with the electromagnetic switch is that they are very close to the small lightening storm from the spark jumping from the rotor to the distributor cap's contact points. This creates it's own magnetic field that can and does effect the proper working of the electronic ignition. Here is one article from a place that rebuilds distributors. Scroll down to "Points or Pertronix" http://advanceddistributors.com/wordpress1/links/ If one could take this dust shield and spray the underside with a conductive paint, that would go a long way to ground any magnetic fields that would effect the magnetic switch of any given unit.  | ||
| Trevor Pickering Experienced User Username: commander1 Post Number: 150 Registered: 06-2012 |
Thanks Jeff I have covered many thousands of miles with no problems but I do carry a spare set with me. Nothing is infallible. | ||
| Mark Taxis Experienced User Username: mark_taxis Post Number: 192 Registered: 04-2007 |
Jeff I am not sure how effective the insulation is, the car had this when I inherited it from my father,as far as I am concerned anything that may reduce the heat is a winner, in Qeensland summer temperatures are high and being an open car it is further compounded by the sun roasting you in an open car , but winter months are glorious | ||
| Jeff Martin Experienced User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 144 Registered: 07-2018 |
Hi Mark In the photo in your first post you are using resistor wires, how did you manage this ? I just installed resistor wires and when I tried to "spike" the wires, it tore the conductor to the point where there was very little continuity. I ended up trying different things to prevent the damage, and in the end I used paper clip wire to slip down along side the wire to make proper contact. The tricky part was having to make sure the paper clip was on the bottom so the spike would make good contact with the paper clip end. I went with resistor wire because I am seriously planning on a 123 ignition. This will get rid of the mechanical advance weights too. The 123 ignition requires resistor wire otherwise the unit will burn itself out. Interestingly the resistor wire is very low ohms, the longest wire is less then 2000 ohms where a resistor plug is 5000 ohms. When I inquired about just using resistor plugs and solid wires with the 123 ignition, I did not get an answer. I guess that was my answer. | ||
| Mark Taxis Experienced User Username: mark_taxis Post Number: 194 Registered: 04-2007 |
Hi Jeff I have to admit I do not really understand all the intricacies of ignition wires, but a few years ago the car developed an uneven misfire ,diagnostics showed a problem with one of the plug wires it was suggested that it might be better to go back to the old copper wire plug leads which is what I did | ||
| Jeff Martin Experienced User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 145 Registered: 07-2018 |
I can understand that. Suppression wires, or wire wound ignition wires are generally impregnated carbon fibreglass that is wound with a very fine wire around the outside. If one uses the spikes on the RR distributor cap, it can easily break the very fine wire. If that happens, only the carbon does the conducting. (which is not enough) That's why I was asking, about how you went about mounting your wire, just wondering what you did. I suspect that you simply just spiked the suppression wires, that's what gave the problem that you had. I guess it doesn't matter now. All I know is that even sliding down a piece of steel (a piece of paper clip), it was quite time consuming to make sure it was done right as not to damage the wire core and to make sure that the spike made contact with the steel bit that slid down the side. In the end, a standard push in type distributor cap would have been easier, but that would have created a whole new other problem. The key is different putting the contacts inside the distributor in a different position. I would have had to re-key the drive of the distributor itself. If it gives problems, I still may have too. | ||
| Bill Vatter Experienced User Username: bill_vatter Post Number: 127 Registered: 09-2004 |
Most wealthy people are not stupid, nor do they often do stupid things, like purchase a bad car, very often. Early postwar Rolls-Royce built cars were very good cars when they were new, or they could not have been sold, and the Company would have failed. Your car may have problems now, but when it was new, it was very good, it ran very well, and it was very reliable. Therefore, it seems reasonable to me that if you make it like it was when it was new, it will run well and be reliable again. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2377 Registered: 09-2004 |
Not forgetting that dual contacts cope better with dwell variation due to wear on the distributor shaft if set up correctly. | ||
| Jeff Martin Experienced User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 147 Registered: 07-2018 |
Hi Bill The problem is making it run like new requires more maintenance and time then I would like to spend. While I will accept this, if there is a newer and better alternative to get it to run as new, I will explore those options. However one has to be careful with the alternatives, new technology, if not applied correctly may and can, make things worse. Cost is also a factor here, the original rotor with the resistor in it is quite expensive, so I will explore other options. So far, the resistor suppression wires I have just fitted works the best, better then resistor caps or plugs. It has never idled so smooth. |
