Post Number: 22
|Posted on Saturday, 03 July, 2010 - 09:11: |
The leaf springs on my MK6 Bentley need closer inspection as they are not 'springing'. The rear of the car is tight and it would appear a leaf has broken on NS.
I am considering removing the springs myself, looking for advise on the do's and donts and the order to follow when removing the springs fron the car.
Post Number: 1257
|Posted on Saturday, 03 July, 2010 - 09:30: |
Gosh Mark I pulled the whole rear end off the chassis of my Silver Dawn over 30 years ago. My first reaction to your comment about stiffness was to check your chassis lube system. The rear, being furthest away from the pump in the engine compartment, is always the first area to have trouble.
I suggest you get yourself a roll of butchers' paper, spread it on the garage floor and pump the chassis lubrication pedal lots of times then go to bed. Next morning you should have nice big spots to tell you what's getting it and what's not! If you find the rear is minus spots or at best just a few, tackle each outlet one at a time. Unscrew the pipe nipple at the restrictor end and pump. Oil should come out! Put the restrictor on the pipe and pump and see if oil comes out. If it doesn't the restrictor is blocked. If it is not blocked then crud has got into the oilways in the mechanism and blocked the oil channels. The shackels and pins on these cars are famous for that.
Getting the springs off is no big deal since they don't need a spreader. If the front shackle is seized take off the whole front assembly and stand the lot in a bucket of WD40 for a week or so. Use lots of the same on the U bolt nuts. If you snap one of those off you could have trouble finding a replacement these days.
I assume you have checked the shock absorbers. I have seen these allowed to run dry and seize.
It's all good clean fun!
Post Number: 82
|Posted on Saturday, 03 July, 2010 - 09:43: |
Have look at the "Oil or Grease" topic earlier in this forum.
Post Number: 23
|Posted on Saturday, 03 July, 2010 - 09:45: |
Yes Bill the chassis lube was a part of the problem which I have rectified and yes it made a mess everywhere. I was amazed as you suggested how long it takes to reach the rear using the foot pump. Its a timely reminder to us all to ensure the lube is finding its way to the rear shackles.
Should the spring be supported at the U bolts as I am thinking this will release suddenly as the nuts are removed? Do the U bolts get released first?
Post Number: 33
|Posted on Saturday, 03 July, 2010 - 14:46: |
I have just had the springs on my MK 6 special re set. The difference in cost for me to disasemble and take the springs to the spring works and them doing it all was only Aus$90 so I elected to let them do all the work!!
Post Number: 2165
|Posted on Saturday, 03 July, 2010 - 17:22: |
Could you let us know who reset them, so I may add them to the list (see earlier threads)?
Post Number: 24
|Posted on Sunday, 04 July, 2010 - 11:41: |
Oil and Grease was very informative however I am still none the wiser on 'the how to' lol. The thread has alerted me to the step in the process before the leaf springs are removed. }
Post Number: 34
|Posted on Sunday, 04 July, 2010 - 17:33: |
This is the company I used,
Northcoast Suspension & Springworks
6 Rawlins Circuit, Kunda Park
Phone: 07 5445 3533 Fax: 07 5445 5077
They reset the rear springs, They recommended adding another leaf but when it came to the crunch there were no 5" springs in Aus. Have temporarily installed a 4.5" leaf.
The whole job cost $385.
The handling of the car has been transformed as previously the axle was making frequent contact with the bump stop due to the sagging springs
Post Number: 2166
|Posted on Sunday, 04 July, 2010 - 18:31: |
Thank you Mark. The outfit seems to do everything, with the emphasis on 4WDs predictable for the Sunshine Coast and Hervey Bay districts.
The others which are a good lead are custom trailer builders, such as Southern Cross Trailers (1300 780 317, Penrith NSW, and with agents all over the country).
www.southern-cross-trailers.com.au and truck carbody builders. I’m starting a database. Lovells no longer do their own spring manufacturing, but I have a list of their subbies.
Northcoast Suspension & Springworks
6 Rawlins Circuit, Kunda Park, Queensland 4556
Phone: 07 5445 3533
Fax: 07 5445 5077
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• Shock Absorbers Springs & Suspensions
Post Number: 83
|Posted on Sunday, 04 July, 2010 - 23:30: |
Have a look at the diagrams in the Workshop Manual to see how the springs are attached to the chassis. The spring leaves are held together by a bolt in the spring itself. The U bolts merely tie the springs to the rear axle. The springs come off as complete springs and the leaves are separated afterwards.
Posted From: 188.8.131.52
|Posted on Sunday, 04 July, 2010 - 19:07: |
To save repetition, see web site www.kda132.com, technical section on axles, "What fails and why part 2"
I believe that will answer most of your questions, be particularly aware of the spring shackles 'going over centre'. Remove the front shackle bracket complete from the chassis, then detach the spring afterwards. This makes it easier to line up the front shackle pin and seals, as well as providing stability ( none finger trapping) when refitting.
I have to disagree with Bill, this once, if the springs are cambered correctly you really need a spreader to them refit. Old springs can of course be refitted without a spreader.
(Message approved by david_gore)