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Patrick Hunziker
Yet to post message
Username: pahu

Post Number: 1
Registered: 7-2016
Posted on Thursday, 21 July, 2016 - 01:49:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Forum

In the second try my application to the board has been succesfull...
Got me a Turbo S 3 weeks ago... never driven, just hat the possibility to have a look at it and make my offer... now it's mine. The car was not driven for around 8 jears, so in the next weeks i will try to get it moving again... Never had somethin to do with Bentley or RR before, so i'm a virgin in the technical aspects of these cars... was reading thru the TSD6000 for around 100hours... would be nice if i could get some help here when the problems are not to be solved on my own...
will keep you updated about the progress...

patrick
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Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov
Grand Master
Username: soviet

Post Number: 565
Registered: 2-2013
Posted on Thursday, 21 July, 2016 - 03:19:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Welcome Patrick. Hopefully you are either a mechanic with many years practical experience or you have or can quickly acquire those skills fast. Or you bought the car extremely cheaply or you had somebody who knows about these cars thoroughly check the car's mechanical condition together with an impeccable inspection of its service records for its entire lifetime. Or you have lots of spare money to spend on it.

There is a belief amongst many people that a car that has not been driven for many years is somehow in good condition but this is a myth.

You will find many helpful contributions of information in this forum.

Now that you have already bought the car its too late to be concerned or worry about not having had the car checked over mechanically.

If it has not been driven in eight years the battery tyres and all fluids especially the brake fluid and fuel is useless. Do not attempt to drive the car anywhere until you perform a brake test. You will need to get the engine running first. Good luck.
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Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 1037
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Thursday, 21 July, 2016 - 04:17:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Brake test.
Turn on ignition.
Both brake lights on dash should be on.
Start engine.
Brake lights on dash should go out.
Run engine for 5 mins.
Turn off engine.
Turn ignition on don't start engine.
Pump brake pedal counting number of pumps before lights on dash light.
30 plus pumps is ok.
20 means spheres are down on nitrogen pressure.
10 or less means car dangerous to drive.

This car uses LHM not RR363 brake fluid.
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Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 1038
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Thursday, 21 July, 2016 - 04:21:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Forgot.
Use the Spirit bit of the forum rather than idler chatter.

This forum will give you help just ask.
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Omar M. Shams
Grand Master
Username: omar

Post Number: 729
Registered: 4-2009
Posted on Thursday, 21 July, 2016 - 04:54:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Welcome Patrick.
We will do our best to help you.
feel free to ask as many questions as you want. There are plenty threads that may already answer your questions. Use the search feature on the forum - it is very useful.
A Turbo S is a rare car - you are lucky to have one of those.
Good luck
Omar
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1309
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Thursday, 21 July, 2016 - 05:32:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Welcome Patrick

Have you managed to start the engine yet?

Geoff
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Patrick Hunziker
New User
Username: pahu

Post Number: 2
Registered: 7-2016
Posted on Thursday, 21 July, 2016 - 05:44:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thank you for the warm welcome...
Before having a look at the car i read about 20 hours in this (and a german) Forum about Problems and the specialities of these cars... i also bought a Jaguar MK2 from the same seller (also just looking, no driving)...
I already purchased the following_
- New Spheres
- LHM+ (8 litres, to really flush the whole system)
- Motor Oil (10W40)
- Spark-Plugs (BKR5E...)
- DEXRON III ATF-Fluid
- Gearbox_Filter
- DIFF-Oil (75W90-LS)
- Grease
- Air-Filter
- Oil-Filter
- Petrol-Filter
- Coolant (the Bentley one)
- Colling System Flush
to be continued...

First i will have a look at the brake System (state of the Brake-lines, Pads, Discs, dirt in the reservoirs...), then i will start with servicing the engine, Gearbox, Rear-Axle....

First Budget to get it running is around CHF 8'500.- (only parts anf fluids)...

I know my way around cars a little bit... I did the complete rebuild of the engine from my caterham (ROVER VVC) on my own and i do all the works on my other cars myself...

I think, the price i paid was ok (but i will know about that in about 10 jears:-))
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Patrick Hunziker
New User
Username: pahu

Post Number: 3
Registered: 7-2016
Posted on Thursday, 21 July, 2016 - 05:47:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Forgot,
- new battery

Yes, car is running, no fault codes in the display... i'm currently assembling the MasterCheck - OBD2 cable (as described in this forum and in the german one. i already installed an OBD-2 Software and will try to read the fault codes of the car next week...
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1310
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Thursday, 21 July, 2016 - 07:43:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick

From what you have just said it is clear you will have no problem in maintaining your cars.

Geoff
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Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 1040
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Thursday, 21 July, 2016 - 08:39:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick,
The parts you have brought are just the ticket to recommission this car.
Always remember when working on these cars that it was "perfect" when it left Crewe. Meaning that you won't be chasing faults that were there when new. And remember that the cars work exactly the same as other cars.

The high build quality actually makes repair easier.
DIY is doable for the knowledgeable diyer armed with a workshop manual and in this particular application, OB equipment.

I am a retired pro mechanic, my brain separates the various bits of the car into manageable lumps. Then I assemble the bits. In my brain there is a circuit diagram of the hydraulics of my Shadow.
The secret of running an old Crewe car is drive it and check it often. I have had my shadow for 27 years and it always gets me home. I have fitted very few parts to it. Even the air con after 27 years still works. Parts used are really service items. My spheres are 20 years old, and 90 pumps.

Also drive car easily within its limits. I drive my shadow at a max of 75 mph normally, fastest I have been is @5 mph. I rarely go above 3500 rpm. The car is still fast in these parameters.

Plus when you first drive the car you may be slightly disappointed. These cars need at least 5 miles to warm up properly.

Check the tyres very carefully because after 10 years the tryes are scrap.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 329
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Thursday, 21 July, 2016 - 14:07:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

A bit late but welcome.
I'm very keen to see the progress on this car Patrick.
The guys here are extremely helpful and have sorted me on many issues.
Congratulations on the Car.
Please post a pic if you get a chance.