| Author | Message | ||
     Bob UK Unregistered guest |
I am very pleased with myself I am very close to my complete proper tidy up of my cave. It gone a bit further and I am now repainting. I am using paint I got free from the recycle centre, it's a mix of various emulsions it a very light blue. And I got a gallon of white gloss. It's surprising you could repaint a whole house with free paint. Also a nice bathroom sink for £10 with nice taps. This is for my second bath room which has a silly small sink. Next stage is to service all the tools. Its amazing how much junk that has been put in my cave by others. Most of it is plastic clutter. Someone once said that if you don't use something for a year then it's clutter. They have a point but it doesn't apply to tools. In the spring I will then be able to get cracking on my big big service, which I am looking forward to. I have a list. It's long but most expensive bits are a set of tyres. While cleaning I had to move the car and it was last run in October and it started second 5 second crank on lpg. So not much wrong in that department. This car in 25 years has never failed to start except when the battery is down. So far so good. | ||
| Chris Buckenham Experienced User Username: chris_buckenham Post Number: 46 Registered: 6-2012 |
Bob , On the subject of tyres I recently put a set on my 97 Turbo R. Michelin rated correctly £123.00 each from Autoteilestore on Amazon. Delivered for £3.00 from Germany by DPD for the lot. Drives brilliantly , way better than the aged Turbospeeds, but then they were aged. We did pay a lot of attention to the balancing and I might take a trip to a firm with a dynamic balancer at some point. I need new front shocks of the late adjustable type if anybody knows of a source. Regards, Chris | ||
| Jonas TRACHSEL Frequent User Username: jonas_trachsel Post Number: 56 Registered: 2-2005 |
Chris and all Isn't it remarkable how tyres got cheaper over the last 10 years or so, not only the second choice brands, but also the premium brands such as Michelin, Conti, Bridgestone. | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 309 Registered: 8-2007 |
Nope, it's not really remarkable, it's thanks to the Cayennes and the like that high speed tyres for heavy automobiles are more common hence cheaper. | ||
| Chris Buckenham Experienced User Username: chris_buckenham Post Number: 47 Registered: 6-2012 |
It is good news all round and the tyres on my Turbo R were originally specified on the early Cayennes , or so I am told. Chris | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.79 |
A local tyre man has suggested Cooper Tyres. These are like turbo speeds. Cooper own Avon apparently. £95 each. I haven't seen one yet. Tyres have got cheaper. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Carl Heydon Frequent User Username: car Post Number: 63 Registered: 2-2004 |
I've had 10 Coopers H/T on SBH19606 and at least 5 of them destroyed themselves when half worn through belt separation. | ||
| Chris Buckenham Experienced User Username: chris_buckenham Post Number: 48 Registered: 6-2012 |
Bob , Forgive me for this post and if I have missed this discussion elsewhere. You are now the most prolific poster on this forum by a long chalk , why don't you just register like everybody else ? Earlier I was going to PM you the Autoteilestore info but realised that this wasn't possible , nor can I ask you this question privately. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 599 Registered: 5-2012 |
Bob Come on Bob. Let's have a statement. I came across one of your posts from 2005 when searching the forum the other day. Has David really been entering your posts all this time. Geoff | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 751 Registered: 1-2008 |
Yes. Come on, Bob, and re-register. You know you want to. Do it before the forum is moved to the new server. I'm sure the admin can arrange something! | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 920 Registered: 9-2004 |
"This car in 25 years has never failed to start except when the battery is down." Well Bob you are indeed very lucky or what! My Shadow 1 1974 owned for 37yrs has had condenser, points,one ballast and fuel pump overhaul all of which caused FTS or FTP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My car has one number VIN different from yours and live 35miles from you. Just missed a one off Aston M for the collection near where you used to work! | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.76 |
That's coopers out of the running. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.76 |
There's a site called camskill that does 205 70R15 for £42 each. Yep tyres have got cheaper. Don't know about that cheap though. In the main all the tyres in 205 seem to be SUV with varying degrees of aggressive tyre tread pattern. My car is meant to be 205 not 235 so I could go 215 225 as well. Decisions decisions, I could get one of each but then it would fail the mot. Cooper does own Avon tyres. The Cooper tyre suggested to me is recommended by cooper for the shadow. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1507 Registered: 4-2003 |
Once upon a time, unregistered guests could post direct to the forum and any problems were subsequently edited by the Moderators/Administrator [including myself] without encountering any serious misdemeanors. Unfortunately, we encountered a period of massive abuse of this and other R-R/B Forums which resulted in the closure of the Swammelstein Shadow Forum and, in the case of this forum, the banning of one member, another member withdrawing participation for a period of time and the Administrator enabling a feature of this Forum's software to require Moderator/Administrator approval of Guest posts before they could appear in the Forum. This feature remains in force to the present day and yes; I approve most if not all of Bob UK's posts before they appear on the Forum. Bob UK was not involved in this forum abuse episode. I am aware of the reason why Bob UK has not registered and accept this is valid however I personally would like a means of contacting him privately instead of publicly in the form of a message on the Forum. I do not mind the workload involved in approving Bob's posts but there have been infrequent times when I would like to send Bob additional information on topics he has raised/contributed to for his personal use. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 921 Registered: 9-2004 |
The OE Avons get run out and are a ballancing nightmare. Still have a new never used set. May use them for a show car but not for road use. Best tyre for price and all round useability I have found to be 215/70/15 Falkens for the Shadow one. | ||
| Chris Buckenham Experienced User Username: chris_buckenham Post Number: 49 Registered: 6-2012 |
Good Evening Everybody, Please accept my apologies if by making that observation I have unnecessarily dragged up the past . This forum is really well run and if we stick together abusive people soon get bored. I only ever register in my own name for anything, which means if anybody ever has a problem with what I say and I go out of my way to be reasonable all they need do is consult the internet , discover my address and then they are welcome to visit me for a face to face , hadn't happened yet though. Got cameras everywhere now as well. We mustn't be bullied or allow others to be bullied on the internet. On the subject of the Michelins they are very much a car type . But of course they will be because most 4x4 are fitted with a road type tyre from the factory. I have a discovery as a day to day car which now wears General Grabber tyres and can now actually go off road. We recently sold a Navara which I had fitted them to as well and it became a usable off road vehicle. Navara replace by Toyota Hilux , roader than road tyres so it will need a set of Grabbers now, they are quiet on the road and excellent off road. If Omar is watching , will be there for the annual Arab Health show 24th to the 31st this month, and I can see that it is 26C today. Looking forward to catching up if poss. Regards, Chris | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.93 |
reddington1[AT@**]hotmail.com Bob, have edited this address to minimise the possibility of it being picked up by a SPAM BOT for the nasties to use. This address got hit by endless spam. It's now down to a manageable level. I liked Swammelstein but the trolls and spammers just ruined it because they are a load of Billy no mates leading a lonely life because they are nasty to others. Tire malarkey. It's difficult to chose, in the old days there was much less available. SUV tyres could be used because some don't have an aggressive tread and are more for road use. It depends on what you are driving on. On rutted roads with mud and worse then fine but at 60mph on smooth tarmac then SUV tyres may be not so good. It won't be dangerous just not as good as it should be. I don't think on the shadow that tyre width is a concern and 205 215,225, or 235 are all fine. There is a difference in dia because 70% refers to the height of tyre as a % of the width. This is in the tech bit on the main site. As for make and price 42 is just to cheap. So from say 90 to 275. is the 275 version 3 times better than £90 version. I think that after 150 the advantages diminish rapidly. As for make all tyres sold in the UK are up to a certain standard. So buying a tyre made from poo can't happen. However I want tyres with a well known name. Bridgestone or Continentals are both around £100 so 5 is an affordable £500. Half of which is going to be payed by free road tax.£240. Present tyres are 2.5 mm and 10 years old. So I pushing the envelope a bit. I take note of others experiences with tyres. Those 42 ones would fit my jeep everythings to good for the jeep. If one is lucky enough to have a turbo or even just a quick Royce then it's expensive high speed tyres only. My lastest invention is a paint brush on a stand for doing narrow bands. One doesn't have to use white, one could use pink or howabout black.  (Message approved by david_gore)} | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1510 Registered: 4-2003 |
Bob, I tried to send you an email through this address on the 25th October 2014 with no response so it may have been caught by Hotmail's filters if you had previously deleted my email address from your address book. The email would have come from drh14434[AT@**]xxxxx.xxx.au. Will send you a test message shortly from this address so if it doesn't appear in your Inbox, please check the Trash/Spam/Wherever where filtered out emails are lodged. As in the past, you would know I do not abuse private email. | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.71 |
Dave, Your message arrived fine. My wife sorted some of the spam rubbish out. Thank you for stopping spambots, I never thought of that. Latest rubbish is do I want to sell my reg. No. from my car. I think they get the numbers from our helpful government because our dvla make money out of reg nos. Or the insurance data base. Back to my man cave. I have a small leak in the roof an egg cup full takes 4 hours of rain. I found it because I was sitting underneath it. A job for the spring and dry weather. Sealing wet roofs doesn't work. I shall get a mate to hot tar the area so that the hot tar finds the leak and seals it. Worse, while using my lathe the motor went ppufft. Fortunately I have 3 spares and none of them actually fit. So I took the motor apart and can't actually find any thing wrong. I need to get that motor running so I can make one of the other motors fit. But if I repair the original I won't need to modify another motor. Chicken and egg situation and I knew something would go wrong. However because the weather is not that cold, I am getting a jump on my work load. And petrol has just gone to £1 a litre. Interesting the fuel duty is 58pence. The actual petrol is 24p that's 82p plus 18p vat. So there's vat on fuel duty. This means that 76% is tax. This has been noted by the motorist in the UK and they're moaning, we have a general election in May, energy prices have been in the news a lot. IMO cheap energy and transport costs is paramount for a healthily economy because people get out and about looking of ways to make money. My oil business got kippered by high transport costs. I had to buy so much that my local area got stuffed with my oil, which meant I couldn't sell enough to keep it going. Morris oil of Shrewbury. Now they factor out the oil to big car parts suppliers and have to directly complete with Castrol etc. This is why Morris almost unknown outside of the motor trade. Of course lowering fuel duty means the money will have to be taxed else where. That's where a clever chancellor does his magic I would like to see 8p off fuel duty. I would really like no tax or duty. But that's not sensible. Nothing from the environmental lobby about cheaper fuel promoting more use of fossil fuels. I think this will put the UK market for EVs in a downturn. Predictions are 6 months before petrol goes up. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1512 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Bob, Lathe motor - single or 3 phase and what HP? If single phase 3HP+ capacitor start, what is your line voltage when starting? If you don't know, did your workshop lights dim [not flicker] when you hit the start button? What are the start and run winding resistances if these can be measured? I think I still have the typical resistances for various HP motors somewhere in my archives. My guess is you may have a PSC [permanently split capacitor] failure on the start or run side or both. Fried insulation smell, sparks and smoke when motor "failed to continue". Burnt-out windings are quick and easy to diagnose. A metallic "thunk" when the motor stopped/attempted restart - possible armature poling caused by bearing wear or armature misalignment due to catastrophic bearing failure. About to send you the actual message from the October attempt....... | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.90 |
Found the fault. Inside the motor hidden down the drive end is a protection device. This cuts the neutral side. So neither the start windings or run windings were connected. Once the reset button was pushed I got a reading off the windings. The run windings were about zero ohms. I found a short in the tails. New tails and a bit of varnish over the area to stop vibs fracturing winding ends. Now run are 40 ohms and start is 170 ohms. It now runs fine, with a click from the centrifugal switch that turns off the start windings. Unfortunately I mixed up the tail ends and the motor is running backwards. So it's a case of switching the run tails or the start tails ( not both). 1500 watts is 2 hp. This motor is is 1.5hp on the plate. Which is typical for high quality induction motors. I have the contactor on 1.5 hp so that the motor can't be overloaded. 240v into 1500 goes 6amps and 6x 40ohms is 240v. The start windings are about 4 times the run ohms which is about right according to my motor book. Also the rpm is 1490 which is correct for a 4 pole motor. Panic over. Note for people new to mains motors. Never test motors that are not bolted down. The motor can jump off the bench. Always connect an earth to the frame because it's possible to have a live frame, the fuse will blow if the frame is live. Fuse rating. Always divide the volts into the watts to give amps. Then add 50% for surge on start up. Also once motor is disconnected the capacitor could be charged so connect a 60 watt mains bulb across the live and neutral terminals. After testing and when in use, always use a contactor instead of the fuse for protection of the motor. Set the contactor for the hp of the motor. Always then protect the contactor with a fuse. In this case 1.5 hp 7.5amp. But nearest is 10amp. The contactor will allow surge but about 1 sec only. This will blow a fuse immediately which means that a higher rated fuse is needed. This could allow the motor to run for quite a while in overload. Which burns motor out. Then it gets expensive. Earthing. Run an earth to motor frame, motor mount and then the machines frame or bed. Dodgy earths on cars give confusing electrical faults. Dodgy earths on machine tools don't stop the machine working they kill the operator instead. My motor was shorted from neutral to live. If could have just as easily been live to the frame. Without PROPER earth bonding I would be dead. To make a pro job I have put earth do not remove aluminum tags on the earth points. For further info Google it. I cannot stress the importance of proper earth bonding in workshops. Don't forget stainless steel sinks and water pipes to the sink, and metal tops on benches. water pipes should already be earthed in the house but grime between the tap and sink may insulate the sink. So modern sinks have a terminal fitted for earthing. If the sink is old. 1/4" hole and brass screw and washers will do the job. Don't rely on earth leakage safety breakers for sole electrical safety. This has made up for the leak in the roof, because the motor is 50 years old and very high quality. It's dead silence. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1514 Registered: 4-2003 |
Bob, Sounds like someone fitted a thermistor in the windings to shut the motor down if the windings began to overheat. I would replace the thermistor with a new one if this is the case as they can save a repairable motor from the cost of a rewind. | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.77 |
The device is wired in series. I took it out and checked with a heat gun and it turns off. I then sparked it up and it turns off. The device can be removed and changed without taking the motor apart so I reinstalled as is. The contactor will also protect the motor. The device was fitted by the motors maker. I never knew it was there. The little button is behind a 1/8 hole. The idea is that when it trips the user pokes a match stick in the hole to reset. The brgs are plain Bush with an oil sump and wicks. I changed the run tails and installed it. When the motor starts I can see a small spark from the centrifugal switch contacts. And when the motor stops I can hear the switch click shut. So all good. It starts instantly no noise and the right direction. The coupling is two gears back to back with a sleeve with teeth inside over the top. The coupling is 5hp. I packed this with thick grease, and 20/50 for the gear box and motor brg sumps, and filled the dash pots. That's that serviced for 10 years. The main headstock brg has a sight glass with an adjuster and on off switch. The bearings are massive bronze half brgs. To oil them flip to on, this lifts the metering needle then watch for a drip in the sight glass. When running I am happy to see a bit of oil leaking out of the brg. No oil leaks mean no oil. I have a pair of 8" brake drums turning up soon for a skim. £15 for the pair. Money for old rope. I use a carbide tipped tool dry. 100rpm. To stop ringing I have big hose clips and thick rubber strips. Finish of with red emery paper at 200 rpm, wire brupsh the out side. I do quite a lot of old car drums once out of productions drums as you know aren't cheap reference pre shadow drums. Even getting mini drums for skimming. It often surprises customers when they have to drum that looks badly scored and just a 10 thou cut and it's smooth. Brake discs require more care because brake shoes float where as calipers don't. Anything more than a thou and you got problems. Once the disc is mounted in the lathe and clocked in I face both sides without demounting, so the disk must be parallel. Where as drums I have one surface only. So as long as the drum is centred, the lathe will bore a very very round hole that is parallel. To make it not bore round or parallel is quite hard to do. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1515 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Bob, Yes - what you found is a thermistor and relay system that protects the motor windings from overheating and burning out. I suspect the short you found initiated overheating of the windings and this activated the thermistor shutdown. That little device has saved you the cost of a rewind. I have a vivid picture in my mind of your lathe and motor set up from my days in the steel industry as many of our customers had similar lathes that did some incredible feats of turning hard-to-machine high tensile and stainless steel components. | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.93 |
The only real difference between a modern lathe and a 100 year old lathe is the modern one looks modern. Mine was made when factories still used line shafts driven by steam engines. I have seen a few set ups where the line shafting is still there but driven by big big electric motors. It had an advantage that once started unloaded, that was it for hours on end. On a 3 shift system the motor would run for 6 days. Trouble is though the motor could just break, and no factory till fixed and it made arrangement of machinery awkward. In place of the line shaft is a Morris eight 3 speed box with reverse. No clutch and a motor connected direct to the first motor shaft with a coupling. The gearbox output flange has a flat pulley bolted to it with an out rigger support plummer self aligning bearing. THis is to support the side thrust of the belt. The belt is a toothed timing belt inside out. I have also a back gear which in bottom bottom and the belt on the small pulley is 10rpm which from the motor to the Chuck is 150 to one. This gives serious grunt. The motor is about 4 ftlbs and the Chuck is 600 ftlbs. This is why a 10hp big lathe will crack open accumulators like peanuts 5000ftlbs plus a 100kg fly wheel to give that initial extra grunt. I used to use a big Mitchell lathe to undo oil drilling rig pipe threads and they are extremely tight. To tension the belt the lathe is moved away from the concrete wall which support the gearbox and motor. To steady the lathe there is a scissors Jack between the wall and lathe casting. The tension is about the.same as a car belt. The lathe weighs a lot so it doesn't need to be bolted down because it's bottom heavy, unlike mills which can fall over should the table be moved to extremes, very dangerous. A Bridgeport vertical mill fell over while it was being moved and it done itself serious damage. It was never quite right after, shame. I am chuffed at my repair because I only know what I Google and what I have picked up from working with electrical engineers who took the time to explain why we are doing what we are doing. Also if I put an alternator in the tool post and a belt round the Chuck I can test alternators and poke them around while turning. I discovered a lot about charging systems like this. The panic was because in about 4 weeks all the diy car restorers will be getting ready to start when the weather gets warmer and the weather was 9c today which is ok to work in. About skimming disks. I am cautious with this because it's so easy to skim it pis#sed. The main problem is that a disk is top hat shape with an offset hub. If the disc is warped then I have to clock the hub which is not easy with a chuck holding the hub. Also vented disks can be rusty inside and despite the min thickness stamped on it the disk can be dangerously thin without realising. Brake lathes are about the best way then it must be true. I have turned some seriously difficult to machine "steels" Normally with ceramic tipped tools the tip lasts but some stuff it's every five minutes and the power meter is up high. This is why it's so expensive. And also why in the UK we still do this sort of engineering. The cheap Labour abroad isn't much of a saving because the operator's wages is very small compared to the cost of the steel and the tools. Sheffield forge masters are such a company. They make things like 4ft dia by 30ft generator shafts. Steel weighs 7.8 tonnes per cubic meter. A quick calculation is 70 tonnes. One step forward and two back, a gust of wind blew a bit of my fence down, so it's all stop and repair it. Hopefully it will be dry tomorrow. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.77 |
PAT, I missed your post about the ballast condenser points and fuel pump. The fuel pump on my car isn't working at the moment. So I don't entirely get away with it and you have owned your car 12years longer than me so fairs fair and I would suggest that your car is about the same as mine. I have been fortunate with my ballast because 40years is pushing it. My motto is fix stuff like that when it breaks and join the AA. The points have been stoned a few times. Condensers are about the most reliable bit on points ignition. Most condenser failures are caused by the guy fixing the car. Having said that I have fitted hundreds and only one of those was internal failure. Others were broken wires etc. The great majority were working fine. Lucky they are cheap. The ballast is about £5 pattern part. In any case a couple of head light bulbs paralleled together will get the car going in an emergency. Bypassing it damages the coil, points and maybe condenser. Not recommended. Also I run on LPG and do not start on petrol hence why no petrol pump doesn't matter. If the car is not run for weeks then it takes two goes to start. I think this is because it's taking time to suck the gas. A way round is to put a teaspoon of petrol into the breather on the choke housing. The choke is wired open. But I haven't got any petrol except in the mower and jeep. Sorry I missed your posting regards Bob. (Message approved by david_gore) |
