| Author | Message | ||
     Jeff Cheng Experienced User Username: makeshift Post Number: 15 Registered: 2-2016 |
So I'm getting close to car shopping; just waiting for by MGB to sell and make room in the shed. I've always had my heart set on a SY variant (due to my father having one when I was a child), but have noticed that many of the SZ cars are also in the same price range. While I know that the Shadow cars will always be more of a 'classic'; I was a child in the 1990's and the Silver Spirit press photographs are the first images to pop into my head anytime RR is mentioned. Has anyone gone through the process of comparing one to the other while car shopping? I imagine in the end, the SY cars will be easier to diagnose and repair, and from what I'm heard almost all the electronics are relay based vs computers in the SZ's (seat controls etc). Carb's vs FI doesn't really decide it for me either, since both SU's and early Bosche Jetronic have their ups and downs, as well as a broad knowledge base. Anyone know about the transition SZ's with SU carbs? Anyone have any thoughts or insights? | ||
| michael vass Prolific User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 222 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi Jeff I admit I'm biased has I have had 2 SZ's but I think they are better for being more modern and having more bosch and less Lucas! I have had carb and KE injection ,the latter is much better. I think once they went to active ride they went computer mad IMHO. Hope that helps Mike | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1117 Registered: 5-2015 |
SY2 has electronic aircon and ignition the SY1 is electro-mechanical. Plus lovely chrome bumpers SZ is a SY2 with different body. the first jetronic is not electronic but electro-mechanical and better than SUs UK prices are for SS1, SS2 and SZ are £3k to £25k 25k buys a mint car 10k for a good car. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1406 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Jeff There is a lot of information in this thread. It's worth checking out. http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/30/13506.html?1380701911 Geoff | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 794 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear Jeff, It is all down to personal taste. Buy what your heart tells you..... I have both types and I love them both in different ways. We would have to get into your head to know what flicks your switches. My Turbo RL and Wraith II are poles apart in the way I enjoy them but they both need to stay in the stable. What are you looking for in your future purchase? looks? performance? a daily driver? a show car? the more you tell us the more we will know which one will be more up your street. Omar | ||
| Jeff Cheng Experienced User Username: makeshift Post Number: 16 Registered: 2-2016 |
Thanks for input, it has given me something to think about for sure (especially that thread comparing early-mid SZ cars, thanks Geoff). Michael; Having owned both carb and jetronic induction, is one more maintenance than the other? Is there any maintenance schedule with the jetronic system. I’m guessing it shares common parts with BMW/Volvo? Robert; Do you know if the SY2 ‘climate control’ is rebuildable or is it all replacement black box magic? I believe the SY1 aircon was mostly relays, motors and position switches? Am I correct in saying that and early SZ is no more complex than an SY2? Omar; My heart yearns for an early 3-speed SY, in traditional silver over grey. But back to reality, the main appeal of the SY2 onward (believe it or not) is the full compliment of gauges. I worry driving an old car without coolant temp and oil pressure gauges as it doesn’t take much variance in either to destroy an engine. If I got an SY1, I would be adding those gauges. For me, the car will be a fair-weather toy. I’m not a perfectionist an am happy to tinker as a hobbyist, and farm out major work to a specialist. Of course, the less potential for major work in the first place through simple systems, the better. However, my big priority/goal for the car is to drive it to my wedding in late 2017, so it will need to be rock solid by then. Jeff | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1121 Registered: 5-2015 |
The SY2 and0 SZ aircon systems are reliable but age creeps in a bit. The electronics are just transistors etc so rebuildable and potentially cheap to fix. If you want a good SY1 the going price in the UK is £8000 and up. At that price the car should be moted and have good tyres etc and be reliable. To check drive the car for 100 miles before purchase. Paying for the petrol is a cheap way to find out if the car has potential. Check chrome. The only bits of the SY1 that need specalist help is help is the spheres and the rear wheel bearings. However both these items are available exchange so no real problems the rest is pure DIY. My 1974 SRH 177680 SY1 has water and oil gauges fitted by me. an easy way is to fit a water gauge only in place of the ammeter. BLMC Mini fits well. The oil gauge is maybe not necessary and the ammeter not really required at all. My spheres were replaced in about 1996/70 and still have 90 pumps on each. my car has never broken down apart from flat batteries because I am careless with lights etc. So providing one gets a good un to start with its all happy motoring. 12mpg. UK gallons. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 800 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear Jeff, Then get an early 3 speed Shadow in silver or grey or better still both. Then you have to make sure you have both gauges installed if that is what makes you happy. I have a Shadow 1 with a temperature gauge instead of the ammeter. fat lot of good that ammeter is!!! Our experience will tell you that the oil pressure gauge rarely tells you that you have a problem because the cars are robust that way. You can therefore have a Shadow 1 with a temperature gauge installed in place of the ammeter and that will be adequate. If you then want to go the extra mile and fit an oil pressure gauge - you can hide that in the glove box. or temporarily install it under the dash until you have used the car for a year and it has proved to you (like they have done with the rest of us) that the gauge rarely warns you of anything other than its own failure. | ||
| Bob Reynolds Grand Master Username: bobreynolds Post Number: 417 Registered: 8-2012 |
"Then get an early 3 speed Shadow in silver or grey or better still both. Then you have to make sure you have both gauges installed if that is what makes you happy." The early Shadows did have a temperature gauge. It was deleted in the late 60s/early 70s. Not sure exactly when. | ||
| Jeff Cheng Experienced User Username: makeshift Post Number: 18 Registered: 2-2016 |
So I had a look at a local 1976 shadow this morning, priced at about 30% below market due to bad paint, but I’ll touch on that later. I may be able to negotiate nearer to the bottom of the market as the seller admitted he hasn’t had much interest. The seller In the vintage watch world, we often talk about ‘buying the seller’, or determining whether the seller is trustworthy and how many grains of salt need to be taken. The seller was an older gentleman and obvious car guy; downsizing his collection, having already sold his Lotus Elan and prepping an incomplete Alfa Giulia project for sale. He mentioned owning a Mercedes Grosser 600 in the early 1990’s before selling it due to high parts costs. He had owned the Shadow for 11yrs. The car Mechanically, the car felt strong, complete with an inch thick folder of receipts. Idled well, pulled well. The rear ride height control valves(?) had been replaced in the last year due to a fluid leak, so I assume the system was bled accordingly afterwards. The owner didn’t know about the ‘brake pump test’ and was just as curious as I. Warning Lamp #1 came on around 60 pumps and #2 about 10 pumps later. However, on starting the engine again, the lamps didn’t go out for 30 seconds or so. Is this an indication of pump condition or expected from a discharged accumulator after the pump test? Everything else worked apart from the aircon/heater temp control, blowing ambient temp regardless of setting. Aircon was re-gassed 12 months ago, and he said he would arrange to have it fixed before sale/delivery. The seller only put 200 miles on it annually, usually on the quarterly club run of 50miles (total 135k on the clock). Will this lack of use cause any issues, even with annual servicing? Adelaide’s an odd little town, and only had the one RR specialist for decades, who semi-retired (closed/sold his shop) in 2006 with no direct replacement, an ‘issue’ that gets raised at club event with differing opinions of who’s now the best. However, he was an old friend to the seller, and has been looking after the car as required since retirement from his workshop at home. Hopefully he will agree to continue to look after the car after the sale, and I will contact him later this week to ask about its servicing condition etc. But having him work on it would be a big plus for me. The bad The paint, a metallic bronze is starting to lift from the metal. There are no chunks missing, but you can see it bubble and start to crack in a few places. A few other sections are starting to orange peel. I wouldn’t let it anywhere near a high pressure hose. It was repainted (from ‘walnut’) in the mid 1990’s, so poor prep is the culprit I’m guessing. It’s still a good 10-footer apart from the palm sized patch of missing cleacoat on the roof, but that’s the only real let down. Has anyone have any idea of cost for a strip & repaint down the track? I am probably more accepting of bad paint than most so I’m not a good judge there. My MGB has a warm rebuilt motor with crappy paint, my current daily driver has a solid motor with crappy paint. My last project had a built, swapped motor with crappy paint. See the trend there? Can anyone pick any holes or other things I should have looked out for? | ||
| michael vass Prolific User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 223 Registered: 7-2015 |
Sounds good and genuine to me,I bought one with crappy paint,but now repainted it looks like new 😊. Shop around for a respray! I saved thousands just by asking around. Good luck Mike | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1125 Registered: 5-2015 |
The air con may have a small leak so get seller to add dye. 30 seconds for lights out is not excessive. | ||
| Carl Heydon Prolific User Username: car Post Number: 114 Registered: 2-2004 |
Frankly, all my cars have crappy paint, but I use them as cars, leave them in car parks and drive them on dirt roads. I spray more crappy paint on when they look too shabby. It all depends what you want from them. Fantastic paint tears your heart out with every chip and inhibits use. | ||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 123 Registered: 11-2015 |
Carl and Jeff, Hear hear on crappy paint. Carl, so true on the car as car comment. There are several schools of thought and associated priorty lists for classic cars. There are correct restorations, perfect restorations, perpetual restorations, hamfisted assaults, get it sold, well meaning efforts, modders, daily drivers, and probably others. I am proudly a driver. I painted my car last spring, 1 or 2 days to remove the old paint and another three hours to paint it. Could the paint look better, sure. Would I get less enjoyment from driving it, no. People don't see the paint when they give you the thumbs up while driving, and close up they love the fact that the car has a $42 paint job and home made roof racks. I love and appreciate a correct restoration as the art it is, I love the perfect resto for what the original was not and was thoughtfully bettered, I love the hamfisted assault because I was once the inexperienced kid myself. I guess I just find the variety of ways people partake in keeping old iron on the road facinating. Thanks, for keeping another one running. | ||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 125 Registered: 11-2015 |
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| Jeff Cheng Experienced User Username: makeshift Post Number: 19 Registered: 2-2016 |
It's good to see there are imperfect cars out there between all the concourse and resto threads. As they say; bad paint won't leave you stranded, and chrome won't get you home. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 808 Registered: 4-2009 |
Thanks for sharing those great photos Ross. | ||
| Jeff Young Prolific User Username: jeyjey Post Number: 270 Registered: 10-2010 |
"I guess I just find the variety of ways people partake in keeping old iron on the road facinating." +1 to that. Cheers, Jeff. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 501 Registered: 4-2016 |
Totally agree with Omar Ross. Fantastic shots. Thank you for sharing. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1413 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Ross I'm impressed. You have a good philosophy in having a daily driver that you can keep looking good at minimal cost. I'm assuming you sanded the original paintwork: What grade of emery papers did you use? Did it really take just 2 days to flat the paintwork. It looks like you got down to the original primer? What type of paint did you use? Where did you spray the car. Did you mock up a temporary spray booth? Geoff | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1126 Registered: 5-2015 |
I agree with the less than prefect paint finish because of the hassle with keeping it that way. My car SRH 17668 was peacock blue but due to daily use as a family workhorse the peacock proved impossible to touch up so I painted it taxi black, now touching up is easy, when it gets too marked I just respray the offending area with a perfect match. The sills are kept nice with aerosols. | ||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 127 Registered: 11-2015 |
Geoff, While this should really go under "C* rap respray" I actually removed all the paint. I didn't use sanding paper because of the dust. I'm almost sure the base contains lead. The original paint and primer filler was so embrittled and cracked that it was far beyond just scuffing and painting, ...so.... I removed the paint with a needle scaler with very sharp needles. Needle scalers remove paint VERY fast and remove it in little chunks so it does not become aresolized (still wear a respirator, lest health and safety walk in). Needle scalers also remove bog and fiberglass! But... They break glass if you hit a window with one, they destroy chrome plated steel and zinc if you manage to hit those, they can warp body panels beyond repair and it will turn leaded seams into a pocked marked mess and there is a lot of lead on a Silver Shadow. Then the process I followed was as follows. 1. sanded off paint residue 2. washdown with alcohol 7. washdown with acetone 8. taped off the metal and turn signals 9. primed with metal etching primer 10. scuffed with a scotchbrite pad 11. washed down with alcohol to remove dust 12. painted two coats of ford tractor grey You will notice there is a glaring lack of steps 3 ,4 ,5 and 6 which I just skipped. Normally one would be repairing damaged metal laying in fiberglass, skimming with bog and sanding (and sanding and sanding and sanding and throwing on finer paper and more sanding, ad infinitum) for those steps. Skipping the metal, glass, bog, sanding steps drops a week on the job, but at the cost of of quality. Like they say you can have it cheap, well executed or fast, pick any two. The paint I used was tractor paint which is basically free by automotive paint standards, industructable and can be painted over anything but will not yield an automotive glassy finish. I did not make up a spray booth, just wet down the floor where I was working. I also used an HVLP gun which puts the paint on the car and not in the air as dust to land on freshly painted surfaces. So, could you paint a car better , yeah. But you could paint it a lot worse and you certainly could throw a lot more money and time at the job. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 506 Registered: 4-2016 |
What a great read Ross, Thanks again. The car looks fantastic in the pics mate. | ||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 128 Registered: 11-2015 |
Patrick, "The car looks fantastic in the pics.." Thank you soft focus. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 507 Registered: 4-2016 |
The keys words here Ross, is that the car looks fantastic. Love your work | ||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 129 Registered: 11-2015 |
Thanks, Patrick. | ||
| Alan Dibley Experienced User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 29 Registered: 10-2009 |
Ross, is there a reason not to apply a coat of varnish to give a gloss finish? If this is a dumb question, forgive me, my painting skills are close to zero. Alan D. | ||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 130 Registered: 11-2015 |
Alan, Tractor paint is shiny enough for tractors so I am pretty sure they don't make clear coat for it. It's not flat, just not a glass like reflection like auto paints. In my case I didn't even consider it because even if it was available it didn't fit my budget for time and money. Best, | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 692 Registered: 5-2009 |
Great looking Car and great posts. Better yet, another special Car is not in a scrap yard somewhere because it isn't "perfect". | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 629 Registered: 4-2012 |
Randy you are so right, I think that a lot of fairly good cars have been broken up for parts, I wonder how many of these old shadows are really left, probably less than we tink. Richard. | ||
| Carl Heydon Prolific User Username: car Post Number: 115 Registered: 2-2004 |
Sometime ago,somewhere, I saw a post claiming that there were a ridiculously small number of SY cars still registered in GB. Perhaps a local could find out? | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 511 Registered: 4-2016 |
Gents, One of our club members did some work on Shadow numbers. He estimates that there is less than 100 road registered and running Shadows in Australia. The amount left rotting away would probably double that. So the numbers are quite low. I have no reason to object to his numbers. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1421 Registered: 5-2012 |
The DVLA keeps such information but figures for the Silver Shadow are hopelessly inaccurate. The website howmanyleft.co.uk lists the total as 15 (ish) for the UK, which is obviously far too low. https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/?utf8=%E2%9C%93&q=rolls+royce+silver+shadow&commit=Search Geoff | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2225 Registered: 4-2003 |
Patrick, Does the figure of <100 cars include those on Club Historic registration? I still see road-registered Shadows on a regular basis during my travels in Sydney and on the Pacific Highway. There are 3 that I am aware of in the Manning Valley alone. | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Grand Master Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 382 Registered: 4-2015 |
There were multiples of tens of thousands originally produced. To think that 90% of them have rotted away or disintegrated from age or use is absurd. Just look at the various for sale listings and at any given time there are literally dozens to choose from. Over the course of a year on just EBay alone hundreds come up for sale. My guess is that only one of ten or less is for sale over the course of a year. Check the register of cars on the RROC in America...there are almost too many to count and only a smalportion of owners are even members of RROC. Just with those back of the hand anecdotes, my suspicion is that there are probably many, many thousands left. If 30,000 (how far off is that number?) were made and only 1/3 survive..probably a number on the low side...well, that's a lot remaining. P.S. In 1970, I took a Rolls-Royce purchase adventure to London. They were everywhere. I vividly recall pulling to a stoplight and seeing two visually IDENTICAL Shadows. TWINS next to each other! Hoodathunkit!! | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 829 Registered: 4-2009 |
From my observations, the whole world (apart from America) has seen a drastic reduction in roadworthy Shadows. The roadworthy ones in the rest of the world are a tiny fraction of the total production numbers. The number of cars in the USA is what really matters. That is where all these cars are. The number of good Shadows being exported form the USA is also significant as older people with money look to buying these "collectible cars". | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 693 Registered: 5-2009 |
I thought there were about 8000 SY series? Maybe I had better research. Anyway one day we will regret letting so many go to seed as there won't be any more. | ||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 137 Registered: 11-2015 |
Jeff, Did you ever end up getting that car? | ||
| Jeff Cheng Experienced User Username: makeshift Post Number: 20 Registered: 2-2016 |
Ross, I am taking delivery this Saturday, and will be sure to post up some photos. Despite being driven only 2000miles in the last decade, it looks like servicing requirements have been kept up on a 'time' schedule. The inspection report noted accumulators to be in as new condition (95+pumps) with many of the rubber hoses appearing as recently replaces. No oil leaks anywhere. The only issues being front inner suspension bushing showing wear and an inop RL window switch (master drivers still working). First thing on my list will be to install a water temp gauge. The discussion on survivor numbers has been interesting. I guess as prices depreciate, it becomes more profitable to part out a broken car than fix/sell it. Has anyone worked out what the 'price floor' would be? I.e. how much an average car would bring worth if parted out entirely. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 834 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear Jeff, congrats on the purchase mate. I can tell you first hand that these cars pay for themselves time and again in parts if you can store them economically. They are so valuable to keep your car going too. simple relays and little widgets make the whole thing worthwhile. But you have to buy them cheap in the first instance. My last scrapper Shadow I bought for US $2,000 and sold the engine and tranny for the same price. The rest of the car has been so very useful to me. There is even a part of that car in your country now (sitting in the engine compartment of Patrick's car). | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 516 Registered: 4-2016 |
Hi David, Yes that does include all Shadows on historic registrations as well. | ||
| Mark Herbstreit Prolific User Username: mark_herbstreit Post Number: 155 Registered: 5-2005 |
I can find about 190 SS and SSII cars on current Australian club records. About 5% listed as unregistered. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 838 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear Mark, Goes to show how few cars are out there. If 190 is good for a continent then that must tell you how few are left. I bet we have the same number here in Dubai (not the whole of the UAE just Dubai). | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 519 Registered: 4-2016 |
Omar, I get to think of you and say thank you every time I open my bonnet. Thanks again mate. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 520 Registered: 4-2016 |
Congrats Jeff Looking forward to seeing the pics of your new acquisition. Well done | ||
| Jeff Cheng Experienced User Username: makeshift Post Number: 21 Registered: 2-2016 |
As requested, here she is; SRH23650. The smell of the leather and wool brought me right back to my childhood. *Excuse the background it was the only carpark near the seller where I could get acquainted to all the controls.  | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 521 Registered: 4-2016 |
Great looking car Jeff. How has day one been? | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2235 Registered: 4-2003 |
Jeff, From the photo, the colour of your car looks very similar to that of DRH14434 - Coffee Bean Brown. This was a solid colour and not a metallic paint. I suggest you get a copy of the build sheets for your chassis number from Hunt House as this will include the paint colour. Spies-Hecker have a very comprehensive list of the tint formulations for RRMC colours which is a great help for touch-up painting. http://www.spieshecker.com/au/en_AU.html | ||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 142 Registered: 11-2015 |
Jeff, Looks great. I notice a plate on there, is it road legal now? Also I noticed the windows look to have a subtle tint. I don't think mine has that, and I think it looks quite sharp. | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 636 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi Jeff great looking car, just a wee bit of saggy bum, new rear springs or rubber spring assisters, Your health and best wishes. Richard. | ||
| Jeff Cheng Experienced User Username: makeshift Post Number: 23 Registered: 2-2016 |
Thanks for the comments guys. These cars sure get a lot of attention. I'm sure onee day I'll eventually tire of fending off questions at the service station. :-P Patrick; the first day hes pretty much been getting used to how it drives. The leather was all pretty sldry and staring to crack, so I spent the afternoon scrubbing the dirt out and conditioning. Much softer now. David; the factory color was 'Walnut' all over. It had a respray in the 90's, and from online photos, I'd say the repaint color is pretty close with the gold metallic. In full sun it's almost a metallic bronze, similar to new Porsches and BMWs. Not sure why they went with the solid gold roof though... I do plan on ordering a copy of the build sheets, if for nothing else than something interesting to read. Ross; the car has always been registered in the last decade. I think the owner kept continuous registration, but having a few cars, only brought it out rarely for club runs. So while its only clocked 2000miles in 10 years, they were put on steadily, with servicing as required. I have receipts for rebuilding the rear brakes (all pistons and rubber hoses replaced) in 2005 and 2yearly fluid flushes, so as expected, the brake fluid tank is clean with no gunk. Richard; I might have to look into the spacers. Is there anywhere I can find the spring specs? There's a few good local spring shops that can make up a pair quite reasonably priced. It was cheap because of the paint starting to lift. It seems to be doing it a little over the fender flares, forming a bubble about 12in x 1.5in. You can kind of poke it and it will flex, but only one crack on the front left side. Other small patches are also barely noticeable, but really only appear as orange peel. I tried to photograph it, but its difficult as you 'see' it by bobbing your head up and down looking as the reflection change. I'm happy to live with it, and am loving the color in the sun. Jeff. | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 694 Registered: 5-2009 |
Beautiful example. Perhaps the painted roof was replacement for an Everflex (Everflakes) top? | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 637 Registered: 4-2012 |
Jeff I had springs made and fitted last year there is a thread in these pages somewhere Geoff Wooton also fitted new springs, mine were eleven coils and 640mm long, you can buy the rubber helpers on e bay. Randy I would like to replace my Everflex roof covering but I am sure it would be hard to do, Richard. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1425 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Jeff Great car. The thing about the various Silver Shadow models is there is always something I particularly like about any given one. I much prefer the dashboard on the early cars, the rack and pinion steering on the later ones but for yours, and mine is the same period (18501), it's the chrome bumpers, the wider track and the lower costs of maintenance. As a rule of thumb, you can get an idea of the "sagginess" of the springs by depressurizing the hydraulics and placing your straightened hand just under the rear wheel arch. The back of your hand should press against the wheel arch with your fingers lying on top of the tyre. The thread Richard refers to is here: http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/16457.html?1438295588 If you decide to use spacers I have some for the mail costs only. http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/31/21789.html?1471981039 Happy Days BTW does the reverse park work on your windscreen wipers? They are parked a little high on the screen. Geoff | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 523 Registered: 4-2016 |
Jeff, Again congrats mate. Don't worry I have a saggy bum to. I have had some great conversations with people at the service station, young and old. A couple of times I've needed to pull the car off to one of the parking spaces to continue these chats. It is quite remarkable how cars can bring people close. I've met some wonderful people (also driving my 25 Chev into the service station) learned some interesting things and have made conversation with people I may never have interacted with. With all the dramas in the world and our own countries, it's amazing that cars can get people chatting. That's why when ever at a RROC event I always like to be near the car to let people have a sit and a selfie, a look under the bonnet, and have a good chat. Some choose to lock their cars and just go elsewhere. I find this this is counter productive in getting people interested in these magnificent machines, as we can always do with more/new future custodians to do what we do, and that is preserving the past and maintaining these cars for all to enjoy. The second Sunday of each month my son & I go to a local coffee & cars. I drive the Chev (he does not like a crash gearbox) and he drives the Shadow. My son is in a number of bands (plays bass) is heavily tattooed, and looks pretty mean. However the young people attracted to him and the Shadow is fantastic. They get to see and enjoy something that is quite "retro cool" There is probably a coffee & cars movement in your area, I encourage you (and everyone else) to give it a go. It's good fun and you get to meet some great people. | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1138 Registered: 5-2015 |
Dont worry too much about saggy bum syndrome because the ride height will correct it in any case. However if the sagging is a lot then the ride height can run out of stroke when car fully loaded thus causing saggy bum. It is allowed to re-shim the rear springs. it is fine to run the car for 1000s of miles using the ride height. it also exercises the hydraulics which is good for them. If one doesn't engage people that are interested in the car then it reinforces the snob bit of RR cars. Which does nothing for the cause. My car has LPG which attracts surprise and a lot of interest, even more surprise when I tell them I start on LPG and RR tested engines on LPG because its cleaner. Even more surprise when I throw the shopping in the boot and stuff the grandkids in the back and use the car as a workhorse. So imperfect cars are ok and also a lot of cars would be gone to rust heaven if everybody insisted on mint paintwork etc. It simply costs to much money. My car is at present nearly at the end of a major service. next is the paint work. I have spent the budget on 90% mechanical leaving 10% for the paint work. as long as its shinny and straight I am a happy bunny how I get there doesnt bother me as long as Its not hundreds and hundreds of £s. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2237 Registered: 4-2003 |
Jeff, Both Lovell Springs and K-Mac Springs have made the heavy duty springs for the SY cars and this information should be in their files. We did a number of rear spring replacements when the NSW & ACT Self-Help Groups were active as this is a fairly straight-forward task. A few front spring replacements have also been done however these require more care and the use of custom-made spring compressor due to the potential danger involved. This replacement has been covered in some detail elsewhere on this forum. If my memory is still reliable, Bill Coburn also covered this in "Tee One Topics" which are archived and available for downloading from the Technical Library http://rrtechnical.info/TeeOne/teeone.htm |
