| Author | Message | ||
     Alan Skofic Experienced User Username: 120l Post Number: 15 Registered: 11-2018 |
Hi What tyres do you guys recommend for a 1980s Silver Spirit? I've noticed tyres can change a cars character! Regards Alan | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 2062 Registered: 4-2016 |
Hi Alan, Brian Crump from the RROC in Sydney put me on to the Maxxis MA1. He runs them on his SpiritII. I’m glad he did. Completely changed my Shadow from a hard riding loud road noise car, to gliding. Huge difference. Sometimes you will find people fit a very heavy tyre, or even light truck rated tyres (very heavy sidewalls) to their Rolls-Royce. Big mistake. The Maxxis I think would be as close to the original way the car was meant to drive, but a third of the cost of replacement Avon’s. The life of the tyre is excellent as well. https://maxxistyres.com.au/product/ma1/  | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2737 Registered: 6-2009 |
When the SY cars were new, and I think this carried over even to early SZs, too, there was no load rating as a standard part of the markings on tires. Speed rating was used as a proxy for same. In the RR & Bentley Parts, Repair, Restoration & Other Resources Compilation I state the following in the section entitled, Tire Size Information, for the SY cars, though this part applies equally to the SZs: What is most critical is that you pay attention to the load rating of the tire you select once you know which size you’ll be choosing. It must be above 100 due to the weight of these cars. Most tires in the above sizes meet this criterion, but some do not. The vast majority will have load ratings between 102 and 105, with some available in XL (extra load) rating of 108. Speed ratings are generally not at all important, particularly if you live in a country with speed limits and don’t routinely flagrantly violate them for extended periods of time. For instance, an ‘S’ speed rating means that a tire can carry its specified load at 112 MPH/180 kPH sustained driving speed. Most tires in the sizes above have a minimum speed rating of ‘S’. Few of these cars ever see that speed for short periods of time, let alone for sustained periods of driving. At one time, before load ratings were routinely indicated, speed rating was the closest indicator you had to roughly gauge load capacity, so speed ratings of ‘H’ and above were the OEM spec. Now that load ratings are on the tire these should be your main guide. --------------------------------------- There is no need to fit truck tires to our cars. | ||
| Brian Crump Prolific User Username: brian_crump Post Number: 175 Registered: 2-2007 |
I have had the Maxxis 225/75/15 on the Spirit for 3 years now and they are the equal of the Avon for grip and performance (just a tad noisier at 100 KPH on course bitumen). The load rating is 102 which is OK and the overall outside diameter is 719 mm which is as close as possible to the Avon. Avon is 711 mm. The speedo error at 100 kph is less than 5% based on GPS readings - and in Australia that is important if you want to avoid infringement - especially in Victoria. The degree of error is also within NSW legal guidelines. Significantly, some insurance companies can avoid payment if you use the incorrect speed rating so you do need to check with your own insurer. Mine was OK with the Maxxis. At this time, I can find no alternative tyre. Avons are sometimes unavailable for months at a time. We simply do not have much choice. Regards, Brian | ||
| Alan Skofic Experienced User Username: 120l Post Number: 16 Registered: 11-2018 |
Thanks for the information. That's very useful and helpful. Regards | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 202 Registered: 1-2012 |
This interests me, as my next CT will probably fail the tyres on age grounds - they will be 11 years old and maybe close to tread limits anyway. Living in France I thought of Michelins (for quiet running) but even on line they are €360 each, and they give no decibel rating for comparison. No white walls either, which look right on the Spirit. I can buy 'Continental' to RR specs for less than half that - anyone any experience? | ||
| Brian Crump Prolific User Username: brian_crump Post Number: 176 Registered: 2-2007 |
I currently use Continental and Michelin on my other cars (Mercedes and Peugeot) and have never, ever had a problem with either. If you can buy Continental then I would not hesitate. The only brand I have been truly unhappy with is Pirelli. Regards, Brian | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 203 Registered: 1-2012 |
Thanks Brian! That solves my dilemma, Continentals it will be. They won't have a hard life anyway. The normal tyre fitters can't handle the big wheels on the Spirit - how does one get them fitted? I use the larger 235/70 R15s. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 2063 Registered: 4-2016 |
Roderick, Find yourself a more competent tyre fitter. Truely, these are small wheels by today’s standards. | ||
| Steve Emmott Experienced User Username: steve_e Post Number: 43 Registered: 11-2018 |
Never had a problem with size of wheel with any tyre fitter but have had problems with the odd one that did not have the correct adaptors to fit the assembly to their wheel balancing machine | ||
| Alan Skofic Experienced User Username: 120l Post Number: 17 Registered: 11-2018 |
Your comments on tyres are interesting. I've been getting Continental and zpirelli tyres on my cars for years. Tried a couple of other brands but didn't find them as good. I like Michelin but they are expensive. I bought my wife a Renault Koleos and it had a set of neat new tyres. The car was noisy and suffered from really bad traction in the wet. I put Pirrellis on it and it's so quiet, smooth and holds the road beautifully. Tyres make a big difference. Regards Alan | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 2064 Registered: 4-2016 |
They sure do Alan, They say tyres are the most neglected and least thought of things on a car. They are also the item that is most begrudgingly purchased by a car owner. Big money, but no real visual benefit as per shiny wheels, or a new sound system. As they say each tyre only have a hand size grip on the road, to keep you safe. So they have to be good. Everyone, like yourself Alan will have their tried and tested brands they always go back to. My go to brand is Kumho. All of mine, and my extended family run them, and they are a great tyre, with good characteristics and most importantly made for the hot Australian conditions, with a huge service network Australia wide. But most people (not guys like us I might add) will always shop around for the cheapest tyre they can get. Where usually they may be the type of person who only buys quality things, but not in tyres. Cheap Chinese tyres flood our market, and I am sure lots of other markets as well. The worst thing is that the heat and load ratings are not for Australia. The customer will usually rely on the tyre shop to do the right thing, but not many of the average people will know about, heat, load & speed ratings on tyres. Luckily here, all of the big brand tyres have good service centres, and they do a huge business. It is just the small factory unit tyre guys you need to be careful with, as they supply cheap tyres, but they are certainly dangerous in many conditions. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2738 Registered: 6-2009 |
Seriously, what's a heat rating? The information presented here: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=35& is what is on tires sold in the USA. There is some rough equivalence between speed and heat rating, I'd think, as tires heat up more at higher speeds, but it's as much guesswork as the relationship between speed rating and load rating. I'm just curious as to whether there's more data available in other markets. Brian, who loves Kumho tires, too, and has used them on a number of my cars now (and one pickup truck, too) | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 204 Registered: 1-2012 |
I have never heard of Kumho Tyres, and neither have most people, I suspect. But they do have a presence in France. I'm interested in how quiet they are on the road - any comments on that? | ||
| Mark Aldridge Grand Master Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 596 Registered: 10-2008 |
My son and I use Kumho tyres on our 190E ,280CE 230E, Mercs and our MG Midget. They are excellent and reasonably priced in the UK. On the Bentley8 and S1, we use Hercules which are excellent. The Shadow is on Avons for originality, but I do not think they are as good as Hercules . | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 2065 Registered: 4-2016 |
Brian, Here is an interesting site with some good tyre info. http://www.wheelworx.com.au/faq_tyres.html I remember talking to a Michelin rep once who was talking about how Chinese tyres may not conform to some Australian conditions. We regularly have melted bitumen roads here in summer, and he said that a lot of tyres can not handle this type of road heat. Roderick, Kumho is very popular here and is a Korean made tyre. These are usually factory fitted for most Hyundai & Kia models that come to Australia. They are long lasting, and are very quiet on my sons heavy station wagon, these are standard use and are not a performance tyre, however the low profile sports “ecsta” model fitted to my wife’s Nissan, are quite loud in comparison. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2739 Registered: 6-2009 |
Patrick, The fact is that tires sold within any country I know of, including Australia, must meet the safety requirements for said country. The Maxxis tires referenced here are of Chinese origin (regardless of which of the countries they produce in happened to make a given set). I think the last set of Kumhos I purchased, TA-11s IIRC (it's freezing outside, and I'm not going out to check, particularly since the sun is down, too) though the company is Korean were actually manufactured in Vietnam. I have never bought any of Kumho's performance line tires, and it's unsurprising they are noisy. I have never understood the rage for low profile tires and huge wheels. The cars with those almost certainly ride like an old ox cart, as I doubt the engineers envisioned many of these riding on that type of wheel and tire. The page you gave the link for is virtually identical to what's presented at the tirerack.com site, and a number of other US tire sellers' sites. I notice they make no mention of a heat index, which is why I asked. I have never seen such referred to before this topic. Brian | ||
| Brian Crump Prolific User Username: brian_crump Post Number: 177 Registered: 2-2007 |
Heat rating is a reality. Please see this: https://www.coopertires.com.au/the-cooper-difference/tyres-explained/what-are-utqg-ratings One would only ever buy an A rated tyre in Australia - as Patrick says melted bitumen is a reality. I have spent the last week out west in NSW visiting family and cemeteries and each day was over 40 Celsius. That's around 104 F in the old measurement. I have never taken a temperature probe to tyres to see what temperature they get to but I imagine on a hot day with excess sidewall flex from an overly soft tyre that it reaches some interesting highs. Like you, Mr Vogel, I am not a fan of low profile tyres. Regards, Brian | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2741 Registered: 6-2009 |
Mr. Crump, Thanks. I am familiar with the Temperature rating and somehow, and heaven only knows why, I just didn't make the direct connection to "heat." The other Brian | ||
| Brian Crump Prolific User Username: brian_crump Post Number: 178 Registered: 2-2007 |
Mr. Vogel, The more I read, the more I realise this is a minefield for the amateur. I have just now found that the higher the profile the higher the likelihood of a lower heat rating. Is increased sidewall flex the cause? This is not universal; quality manufacturers do not seem to have this issue. Maybe we have an expert somewhere here? Regards, Brian | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 2066 Registered: 4-2016 |
Lol The “other” Brian I am at fault here, I should have said temperature and not heat. My bad. I will see if I can track down the Michelin rep I spoke to about this. Brian C is spot on, I will keep the laser thermometer in the car as we are expecting more 40+ temps next week. I do know, in the past I have felt a tyre here on a super hot day after a long drive, and I couldn’t keep my hand on it for more than a second or so. I’m sure we are all on the same page here, that sidewall flex produces heat, so high profile tyres may be more susceptible. Interesting point Brian | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2045 Registered: 9-2004 |
"I have never understood the rage for low profile tires and huge wheels. The cars with those almost certainly ride like an old ox cart" It is called common engineering progress, multi-link suspension, better more efficient brakes, larger tyre footprint to road, more precise steering, better handling, lower revolutions of tyres and running gear, less wear and much more. Quality and sport end cars the ride is most comfortable. Not forgetting the importance of tyre pressures! | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 209 Registered: 1-2012 |
I have resurrected this topic following a front tyre blow-out on the RN10 in France. Echo behaved like the lady she is so that I retained control onto the hard shoulder without incident. I have decided to replace all 5 tyres on the grounds of age - they are 10 years old now. Still legal treads! The replacements I have settled on that I can buy in France are Continental Conti Cross Contact LX2s (235/70 R15s rated 103 T). The price is attractive at €92.75 each. I don't do long high speed trips any more. Any observations welcome! An alternative was Nankang SP7s but they aren't so good in the wet. | ||
| michael vass Grand Master Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 534 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi Rod , glad all ended OK, bet that got your heart rate going!! What make let go on you? Cheers Mike | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 1786 Registered: 4-2009 |
we have a 5 year rule in the UAE. Tyres older than 5 years result in your car failing the annual road worthiness inspection. For this very reason | ||
| Brian Crump Prolific User Username: brian_crump Post Number: 179 Registered: 2-2007 |
Interesting Omar as Michelin in Australia give a full 6 year warranty for their tyres. We don't have your same extremes. Regards, Brian | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3141 Registered: 4-2003 |
I have previously posted a guide to decoding tyre markings on this forum however I will repost it here for convenience:  . | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 210 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello again! I have had 5 new Continental 2LXs fitted to Echo - and the next morning the same wheel that went flat was flat again! The people that fitted the tyres said that on 2 wheels, 'the rims are leaking' ... what does that mean, please, and what can be done about it? Echo's chassis is ECH 09680, a 1984 Spirit, which has standard steel wheels. Do I have to buy new wheels? Thanks! | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3143 Registered: 4-2003 |
Roderick, A possible cause of air leaks is corrosion [rusting] of the channel in the steel rim where the tyre bead is held after the tyre is fitted. If the rust deposits are not removed and any corrosion pits flattened, the rust deposits can be porous allowing the pressurised air in the tyre to escape. This is easily checked by putting an inflated [say 300kPa/45psi] tyre and wheel rim assembly into a water bath and looking for bubbles escaping around the rim. If no bubbles, deflate to normal service pressure and immerse again to see if bubbles become evident. Check the valve assembly for leaks both around the stem of the connection and the valve insert in the stem as it is not unusual for leaks to be caused by faulty new components or poor seating of the insert in the wheel rim. The appropriate method of rectification will be determined by the cause and location of any leak[s] revealed during testing. | ||
| Steve Emmott Frequent User Username: steve_e Post Number: 70 Registered: 11-2018 |
Roderick look after yourself and don't go for a quick cheap solution as if the wheels are weakened with rust perforation definitely time to replace them. It sounds worrying to me and you need to establish exactly where the rims are leaking from and if it is just poor surface finish/debris around the inner rim where the tyre bead is supposed to seal or possibly any kerb damage affecting the profile fit. Then you need a detail inspection of the metal quality of the wheel and this is best done from inside without the tyre on. If any rust apparent then I would certainly change the wheels. Albeit I would have expected the tyre fitting company to have looked at this before fitting a new tyre. I think the RR steel wheels are two pressings that are then welded together around the inner central circumference unlike some others that were fitted on many UK cars which were rolled from a flat pressing and seam welded at the joint. On porous alloys that used to leak I have put inner tubes inside but I don't think this is an acceptable practice anymore and certainly I would not recommend this if the wheels are weakened with rust. I suppose if you have a big enough water tub you could lower the wheel in water and see exactly where the bubbles come out, something we used to do on inner tubes. If you are happy with the metal quality of the wheel itself there are some modern liquid rubber solutions to spray into the wheel which can seal off small leaks. These are now supplied with many modern cars instead of a spare wheel. | ||
| Steve Emmott Frequent User Username: steve_e Post Number: 71 Registered: 11-2018 |
Looks like David posted same time as I was writing.............great minds think alike  I assume though you did change the valves though when new tyres were fitted? | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 211 Registered: 1-2012 |
Thank you David! I'm incapable of any of that, so must rely on the garagiste ... so if it is rust the only solution is new wheels? Presumably they have to be Rolls Royce wheels per se, and no alternative? I wonder because the front tyre that failed did so very quickly - one day it was up as normal as it had been for years, and the next day it was flat. How could rust do that so fast? | ||
| Steve Emmott Frequent User Username: steve_e Post Number: 72 Registered: 11-2018 |
Roderick don't just assume it is rust, you may have just had a perished rubber valve that caused the initial deflation. I have to assume you had the valves replaced as it is common practice here in UK now. | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 212 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello Steve, and thank you too. I agree that rusty wheels are not good and will be replaced - what I thought was a simple puncture is turning into a major financial disaster! Don't know about the valves or how they're fitted - the new tyres were fitted by a breakdown recovery outfit, who may have done just a 'get-you-home' job. Hopefully the garage she's at now will be better. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3144 Registered: 4-2003 |
Roderick, The rust problem is not instantaneous; it develops over time and is related to the fact that when air is compressed, it gets hot and its relative humidity increases due to the additional air volume at atmospheric pressure needed to increase the tyre air pressure. When this hot air cools, the extra water vapour held in the tyre condenses and forms liquid water which will then cause rusting of any unprotected steel surface covered by the tyre. A corrosion process known as "differential aeration" can then come into play setting up a localised electrochemical cell that increases the rate of corrosion in the area where the cell is active. The problem could well be associated with the fact the tyre fitter did not adequately inspect the wheel[s] before fitting the new tyre[s] and consequently failed to remove existing corrosion deposits let alone rectifying any rough surfaces that could prevent the tyre bead forming an air-tight seal with the rim channel. With regard to your question why the problem appeared immediately after the new tyre[s] were fitted - this is probably due to the corrosion of the rim occurring after the original tyres were fitted and then remained airtight until it was disturbed when the tyres were demounted for replacement. Also Steve's comment regarding non-replacement of the old valve assembly is highly relevant - here in Australia, all tyre fitters automatically remove the entire old valve assembly and replace it with a complete new assembly One look will be worth a thousand words if the replacement new tyre[s] are removed from the rim for inspection of the tyre bead and rim channel. Of course, it is also possible the new tyre[s] are defective and not air-tight. | ||
| Steve Emmott Frequent User Username: steve_e Post Number: 73 Registered: 11-2018 |
Roderick, the rubber type valves are pulled through from inside the wheel when the tyre has been removed or released. They cannot be retro fitted without releasing the tyre from the rim. It is an area many times overlooked and they do come in for general wear and tear every time you pump air in the wheel the valve stem will get slightly strained and they do perish. Again don't despair on it being rusted through wheels.... it does need to be checked but my wheels are nearly 50 years old and when I had new tyres fitted years ago the inside paintwork looked as fresh as the day they were painted. Looks like you are following the right path and just get the wheels/tyres re-checked by a specialist before having to dig too deep into your wallet. | ||
| Mark Luft Prolific User Username: bentleyman1993 Post Number: 244 Registered: 10-2016 |
Roderick, Inside the tyre valve stem is a small metal valve called a schrader valve. If this little valve gets bent or worn the air can leak out. They can be removed and replaced, but typically the whole rubber (or steel) assy. gets replaced when you get new tyres. These little valves can also get loose and may need tightening with a small tool. Best of luck, Mark | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 213 Registered: 1-2012 |
Thanks everyone! The garagiste rang yesterday afternoon and had solved the problem. Apparently two of the extensions to the tyre valve were leaking, one quite fast. I guess they were depressing the actual tyre valves slightly. He took them off on Tuesday afternoon and pumped the tyres back up to normal, and left it overnight. Still fine the next morning. Fitted new extensions and left it until yesterday afternoon. Still fine. I've just checked this morning, and they're still OK. Maybe I've got away with it ... in the meantime I had enquired from Introcar for new wheels and they don't have any. However, they came back to say they had located 38 refurbished and tested (for true) wheels if I need any - but no price! Thanks again to you all, as always ... Rod | ||
| Steve Emmott Frequent User Username: steve_e Post Number: 74 Registered: 11-2018 |
Rod, that is good news....but what are the tyre valve extensions? I know tyre valves come in all different lengths and when you have the wheel trim disc covers you do need long valves to come through the trim hole so you can get the tyre pump end on. I wonder if someone at sometime fitted short rubber valves as that is all they had in stock and hence had to fit extensions. I have never actually seen the part before and assume it must have its own internal Shrader valve and some device to depress the one on the main valve. Seems an extra bit of complexity and another area that can increase possible failure as in your situation. Glad you are sorted though and back safely on the road. Steve E | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 214 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello Steve - I think you're right, and the people that fitted the last set of tyres fitted short or standard tyre valves that don't allow for the wheel trim and covers - hence the extensions, which are simple push rods in a tube. The only way they can cause a leak, so far as I can see, is if the tyre valve spindle moves out until it contacts the push rod - further movement and the valve will leak. This implies wear in the Schrader seating, which is a worry. Unless anyone knows different? At the moment it's 'fixed' simply by removing the extensions ... I have contacted Introcar to see if I can buy the correct long tyre valves new, or at least short new ones I can then use my extensions on. It means removing all the wheels and tyres again, but I see no alternative!So not quite finished yet ... Rod | ||
| Steve Emmott Frequent User Username: steve_e Post Number: 75 Registered: 11-2018 |
Hi Rod, I don't think you need to go to Introcar and pay any silly prices as any decent tyre fitting centre should stock these longer valves. They are fitted on lots of cars including old Jaguars and French cars. The whole tyre does not need removing just breaking the seal on the side of the valve should be enough to get access for the valve to be inserted and the tool attached but not much of a problem either way. The biggest cost would be the rebalancing all the time. I will have a look in my stock of old Jaguar parts as I am sure I will have some if you struggle locally but just call in to some tyre fitting stations and ask if they have them. I will measure mine tomorrow and let you know the best length required. These really are not a special part and should be general stock. In the UK they only charge £1 extra for a new valve (if simple rubber type) when fitting a new tyre hence I would always have new valves fitted but again I suppose shelf stock for some tyre fitters means they don't keep the varying lengths. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 129 Registered: 11-2017 |
There are all kinds available on eBay, metal, plastic, etc | ||
| Steve Emmott Frequent User Username: steve_e Post Number: 76 Registered: 11-2018 |
eBay as Robert says should be a good source but stick with the rubber ones. You need that slight flexibility. The metal ones are great for alloys where the valves are exposed and no wheel trims but they do tend to have a thicker diameter so would likely foul the hole in the wheel trim. All you need to know is to get the right length of valve so it passes completely through the wheel trim with enough exposed to fit a pump nozzle. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 130 Registered: 11-2017 |
It may be a good idea to buy a longer one and screw it on as needed to check tyre pressure and screw off when complete. You may find tire valve extensions at tyre shops, especially those dealing with the commercial trade. Place a phone call or two. | ||
| Steve Emmott Frequent User Username: steve_e Post Number: 77 Registered: 11-2018 |
I have just checked my valves and they protrude just over 2 inches from the wheel rim and about half inch from the wheel trim which is sufficient to get a pump end on without removing the wheel trim. The part you are looking for is coded TR418 and come with brass or plastic insides but I suggest you look for the brass ones. The shorter ones are TR414 but really any decent tyre fitters should stock the longer ones. They are available on eBay for a couple of pounds for a set of 5. | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 215 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello Robert and Steve - two wheels have never had a problem, and one a very slight problem. Only the one had a big enough problem to cause a flat, and I think I'll change the valve on that tyre and use the extensions to screw on and off as required to check pressures - jury's still out on that!# Steve, are the TR414 and TR418 RR numbers or are they generic so that any tyre fitter would know what I'm talking about? Thank you ... ROd | ||
| Steve Emmott Frequent User Username: steve_e Post Number: 78 Registered: 11-2018 |
Rod, most coding around tyres are generic as David gave a lot of information on so they may be recognised globally but I am not sure. The numbers are not RR coding specific. You have the length required though at 53mm protrusion. Put the number in on the French eBay site and see if they come up locally anywhere. | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 216 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello Steve - I happened to be passing Eurotyres in Ruffec this morning, so stopped and explained my situation. They immediately produced a TR418 and measured it on the spot - 53mm without the cap - and will be happy to fit 5 such valves on Monday and re-balance the wheels as well. It will take one hour. Hopefully that will be it! Rod | ||
| Steve Emmott Frequent User Username: steve_e Post Number: 81 Registered: 11-2018 |
That is good news Rod and should give you peace of mind now when all done. One tip I would recommend to anyone though is take the wheel trims off yourself as I have seen tyre fitters damage the edges. My trims are the ones with slots around the circumference and I put two ring spanners through the slots 180 degrees apart then turn them and pull the wheel trims off with a hard tug. So many times I have seen wheel trims all buckled around the edge from tyre levers being inserted and the trims prised off from one point on the edge. Also the tyre fitters need reminding that one side the nuts are LH thread and the other RH thread...........it all sounds obvious but sometimes I see tyre fitting companies employing inexperienced staff who all think it is a game as to how quick they can do the job. Hopefully too they have the right adapters for the balancing machine as the centre hole is quite large on the RR steel wheel and a few times I have known tyre companies not able to balance the wheels. Also don't hesitate to ask to look at each wheel inside if they take the whole tyre off and even take some pictures. It is amazing how much more confident you will feel about the wheels if they all look as good as mine did. All the best | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2063 Registered: 9-2004 |
A few tips. A liquid soap will show a valve seating leak or a perished stem. Also the tubeless tyre can be checked around the wheel bead for leaks with the wheel flat on the ground with the liquid fed around the rim. Valve problems can occur when the hub cap walks on the wheel trapping the valve. Some also forget that the hub cap when fitted correctly is not just for the protection of wheel nuts etc but also to support the valve at speed. The true RR way is to balance the wheels on the car this will balance the whole hub disc assembly, mark the studs to make sure removed wheels are refitted in the same balanced position on the hub. The on car balancing is carried out on the inner and outer plane of the wheel assembly. A few of the different tubeless valves:  | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 132 Registered: 11-2017 |
Ideal balancing can be achieved with the tire /wheel off the car and placed on a balancing machine with "road force" technology. This machine will balance the assembly as if on the car(weight). Not many shops have these expensive machines. On the car balancing is rarely used since it doesn't yield many benefits and the small diameter of the rotor and hub is not a major factor compared to the rotational diameter of the tire and wheel. https://www.discounttiredirect.com/learn/road-force-balancing | ||
| Steve Emmott Frequent User Username: steve_e Post Number: 82 Registered: 11-2018 |
Interesting Patrick I never realised or thought of the wheel trim supporting the valve stem but it sounds logical. I have seen wheel trims badly fitted and not central on the valve stem causing strain. Whilst I accept balancing machines have improved over the years I did have my Lotus wheels balanced on the car once many years back and the damn machine used to turn the wheel scuffed all the edge of my tyres. Whilst I can accept the benefits of on car balancing I have always had mine done off car since. Off car machines run much slower now but as I said not all companies have the large conical adapter needed for the RR wheel to centralise it. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2064 Registered: 9-2004 |
Steve, this is one of my early Porsche cars with the use alloy wheels without hub caps to locate the valves at high central frugal speed.  IMO Shadow one, balance off car after a run to remove tyre flats. Note not all wheel centres are true to rim bead.  IMO Shadow 2 with rack, balance on car. Locate balance drive wheel on side tread. Rears can be a prob with drag LSD! | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 133 Registered: 11-2017 |
Those tabs on early Porsche wheels were used with a spring to keep the valve stem in place when using tubes within the tires. The tubes had a tendency to move and thus letting water in around the valve stem. |
