| Author | Message | ||
     Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Frequent User Username: lluís Post Number: 416 Registered: 08-2007 |
Dear all, After a long silence, my Continental R of 1994 is coming back into use... I am doing some maintenance, including replacing the Crankshaft seal, but no persuasion can get the 34mm bolt at the head of the Crankshaft out... I tried a 900Nm impact wrench, a breaker bar of 1m (breaking the 1/2" socket plug)... to no avail. Is there any magical science into this? Am I missing something? I cannot see any pin or anything blocking the bolt. I am quite surprised at the resistance of the offending bolt... Acetylene torch? Thanks, Lluís | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 617 Registered: 11-2017 |
What will an acetylene torch accomplish? Did you read the factory service manual ? | ||
| Mark Aldridge Frequent User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 676 Registered: 10-2008 |
Lluis, has anyone been at this bolt before ? I had problems on a 1983 Mulsanne with the pulley coming loose and retightened it using 638 Loctite. The nut on the early cars should be very tight ,150ft lb comes to mind and requires a special socket. This may be a different assembley on later cars.If someone has used Loctite then a little heat may be required to free it. Mark | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Frequent User Username: lluís Post Number: 417 Registered: 08-2007 |
Acetylene is used to burn the Loctite and expand the nut. I read the manual, which simply reads to undo the bolt in section E. | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Frequent User Username: lluís Post Number: 418 Registered: 08-2007 |
Ba the way, thanks for the replies: the nut has never come loose: car bought with 24000 documented FSH miles and now 90000... but possibly thread rust has locked it. Heat will it be then. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2009 Registered: 04-2009 |
Good luck Lluis. Also nice to hear from you again. | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Frequent User Username: lluís Post Number: 420 Registered: 08-2007 |
Omar, gone but not forgotten: #52020 is not almost 14 years in my possession and I have covered 130000 Km in it. Only thing that ever went wrong was the CD changer. The rest maintenance. I no not really need to do the main seal from my usual Netherlands-to-Spain trips, but in Germany at constant high rpm and possibly more crankpressure (yes, flametrap working) it drops oil on the exhaust, and this annoys me more than anything. I note (Omar) that after the boost modificationswe did years ago with Richard Treacy and others (including a new and more simple boost management system), when the Motronic does not decide to retard the spark and the knock sensors do not overheat, I have dynoed the thing at 410 bhp and (yes really) 850Nm... It simply works beautifully. | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 646 Registered: 07-2015 |
Hi all just ordered a replacement substitute knock sensor, I'll let you know if it works, I'm not paying nearly Ł500 for 2 sensors! Mike | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Frequent User Username: lluís Post Number: 421 Registered: 08-2007 |
Michael: in case you are handy or know one who is handy, the modern Bosch ring knock sensors have the same connector. I think (please correctly in case wrong) that the Lammerholms have a M22 (?) thread and that is all you need to adapt. I know Omar and Richard, years ago were interested and even did the modifications, but you san set the wastegate very aggressively in these motors: the recycle valve controls pressure very well at 0.67 Bar from as low as 1200 rpm under throttle, the rest is done under airflow metering control and all stays very safe... Lambda rock solid over-stöchiometrisch and even emmissions are decent. But back to the bolt: I will be heating it tonight and report. | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 647 Registered: 07-2015 |
Thanks Lluís for the info,good luck with the bolt, I had the same problem on a land Rover and nearly did myself an injury! I think its m12 , the one I'm going to test is the same plug and thread (hopefully) Cheers Mike | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2010 Registered: 04-2009 |
Dear Lluis, It really is great to have you back with us. The mods that we were doing years ago were on my white car which I dont use any more. Also that car had a different control system that i have in my Azure. My Azure is a 96 model year and I think has the Zytec system. What mods do I need to do to make this car fly? Perhaps we can start a new thread for this discussion. Thanks Omar | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Frequent User Username: lluís Post Number: 422 Registered: 08-2007 |
Master Omar: In case the Zytek is working properly, it flies on its own  | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2013 Registered: 04-2009 |
Hahahah. Yes it does. But I want more flight..... I hate it when the Ferraris burn me up. | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Frequent User Username: lluís Post Number: 424 Registered: 08-2007 |
Dear all, The offending bolt is finally out, after quite a bit of grinding and induction heating whatever was holding it, indeed melted down. I will try to post pictures. I am now thinking on how far to go. The mechanical fan is something I never liked and I am thinking of getting rid of it for a 400mm electric, at least as a test, it really zaps a lot of power. Perhaps matter for another topic. | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 652 Registered: 07-2015 |
Hi Lluis Glad you got the bolt out , hope I never have to! I had the mechanical fan off mine when I changed the water pump and it was so much quieter, but the under bonnet temperature was getting high without the constant air movement of the fan so I put it back on. My substitute knock sensor is working fine, a little more testing to do so watch this space! Cheers Mike | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Frequent User Username: lluís Post Number: 426 Registered: 08-2007 |
Which type of electric fan did you use and of which size, Michael? I was thinking that 400mm / 16" would be good enough? | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 653 Registered: 07-2015 |
Hi lluis I didn't fit on has it would have to RU continuously and so no overall saving in fuel ,noise or power OK Cheers Mike | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Frequent User Username: lluís Post Number: 427 Registered: 08-2007 |
OK, so you run fan-less. I will go for 400 mm with a two speed digital controller. Blade designs have come a long way and on the highway the fan is not really needed. It's anyway reversible... Now I need to take the timing chain out. | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 655 Registered: 07-2015 |
chain? it's a gear! surely!  | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Frequent User Username: lluís Post Number: 429 Registered: 08-2007 |
I meant cover... tiredtoday and when I saw I had to take the cover out (I thought I could pry out the seal, I did not like the news... | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 656 Registered: 07-2015 |
I guessed it was a typo lol for such an expert as you , big job indeed! Good luck Mike | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Frequent User Username: lluís Post Number: 430 Registered: 08-2007 |
Expert? Thanks, this is much worse than expected... How can IETIS quaote 9.5 hours for this. I have now removed everything and I am just pending the front sump bolts. Actually, after the pulley was out it went very nicely. but moving nicely. Tomorrow I will try to upload pics. Precat is also out and a low loss metal cat coming in. | ||
| Llu Unregistered guest |
Sorry lol, that was silly: COVER. I need to take the timing cover out. (Message approved by david_gore) |
