Author |
Message |
Hameed Mohamed
Experienced User Username: hameednoor
Post Number: 22 Registered: 12-2006
| Posted on Tuesday, 27 October, 2015 - 08:33: | |
Is there a way that the auto ride can be converted to a regular suspension. Flying Spares sells a kit. Apparently replace with regular shocks. Any views. I recently replaced by rear shocks and front ones are shot and am investigating. Of course my auto ride is shot. |
Hameed Mohamed
Experienced User Username: hameednoor
Post Number: 23 Registered: 12-2006
| Posted on Tuesday, 27 October, 2015 - 09:04: | |
Any views on Auto Ride Diagnostic tool from FlyingSpares UD73741P. Seems cool |
richard george yeaman
Grand Master Username: richyrich
Post Number: 411 Registered: 4-2012
| Posted on Saturday, 12 December, 2015 - 04:43: | |
Hello Hameed I just came across this post and wondered if you had any success rectifying your suspension if so you might want to share your conclusions. Richard. |
Jim Walters
Frequent User Username: jim_walters
Post Number: 57 Registered: 1-2014
| Posted on Saturday, 12 December, 2015 - 05:12: | |
The Auto Ride diagnostic tool from SBI Electronic Engineering in Bolton is considerably less at £325. I have one and it works well. It is used to read error codes and also can re-calibrate the ECU. It will also allow you to select any mode while driving. SBI also rebuilds the ECU's. SRE22493 NAC-05370 www.bristolmotors.com |
Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master Username: bob_uk
Post Number: 798 Registered: 5-2015
| Posted on Saturday, 12 December, 2015 - 06:01: | |
The struts have electric valves inside which open and close thus altering the damping from stiff to soft. This is controlled by an ecu Obviously. If the valves can be manually set by applying power to the valves then the damper can be set manually, as in older RRs. Soft medium sporty and hard If manual electric control is differcult then maybe the valve can be unscrewed and the appropriate bit locked off in soft or medium. I notice the strut has two bits on the side which is probably the valves. I think both valves off give say soft and both on give hard. And either valve on or off give medium and sporty. The first step is to find out how many volts the valves run at. Don't assume it's 12v. It probably is 12v but check first. |
Paul Yorke
Grand Master Username: paul_yorke
Post Number: 1407 Registered: 6-2006
| Posted on Saturday, 12 December, 2015 - 08:56: | |
no coils energised is sport, one does comfort, the other normal. So no power gives a constant Sport or Hard mode. The solenoids can not just be energised easily unfortunately. They use a high voltage to move the valve and them a much lower one to hold it. You can fit normal front shocks and change the valves that sit on on the top of the rear shock where the gas spring screws into. I'd have used ones of the early valve blocks (non active) Some people are happy with Bilstien front and rears in permanently in hard mode. But some find it too stiff for rear passengers. I always recommend having the ride ECU and PSU checked , serviced, and reprogrammed with a more comfortable set of ride parameters. |
Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master Username: bob_uk
Post Number: 799 Registered: 5-2015
| Posted on Saturday, 12 December, 2015 - 10:17: | |
What a shame about the voltages it complicates things from the shed to a laboratory. I find at first stuff like this overwhelming. But with careful thought and inspection a solution is found. Also worth doing a wiring check. A few abs faults I have fixed have turned out to be wiring or sensors. Final thought. I assume PSU means power supply unit. If this is working correctly then the voltages will be available to work the valves electric manually. |
David Towers
Experienced User Username: xtriple
Post Number: 17 Registered: 6-2010
| Posted on Friday, 08 January, 2016 - 01:56: | |
I was faced with this dilemma recently when I was told my front suspension was 'shot'. The Bilstein kit came in at about £1000 ( plus VAT) and that was struts and springs. The original stuff was a tiny bit dearer - each strut over a £1000 (plus VAT) bare! I ummed and ahhed for a weekend and then spent the money on all new standard (active ride) stuff and had £4500 worth of bill for the pleasure! I was also offered 're-built' units for about £500 each but advised against them as the specialist had used them before and one failed in short order. I intend to keep the car so it was worth (?) the money to have all new. |
Paul Yorke
Grand Master Username: paul_yorke
Post Number: 1416 Registered: 6-2006
| Posted on Friday, 08 January, 2016 - 18:37: | |
OUCH David. Sounds painful . . what did they do for that? Most active ride faults are just 'silly' faults which can be repaired for much less. A diagnostics box must be used to locate the faults though. Any early cars with faults should also have the Active Ride Control unit refurnished and reprogrammed. |
Ron Vale
New User Username: silverfoxcc
Post Number: 4 Registered: 4-2012
| Posted on Tuesday, 15 November, 2016 - 09:32: | |
Just an update Spirit II 1990 33893 Had a rear spring and bottom holder replaced took it out last week and the ride is 'bouncy' to say the least No warning for auto ride going u/s shows up, and when i take the fuse out the warning shows on ign turn on Before i start dismantling/spending wads of cash on it. any thoughts on the reason why? spheres u/s ( at least 15 years old!!) needs re bleeding ECU gone any ideas welcome Thanks |
Paul Yorke
Grand Master Username: paul_yorke
Post Number: 1678 Registered: 6-2006
| Posted on Tuesday, 15 November, 2016 - 10:00: | |
Hi Ron, almost certainly a pair of rear gas springs. (Spheres). |
Omar M. Shams
Grand Master Username: omar
Post Number: 912 Registered: 4-2009
| Posted on Wednesday, 16 November, 2016 - 04:52: | |
Paul is right on the money. The spheres need changing. |
Ron Vale
New User Username: silverfoxcc
Post Number: 5 Registered: 4-2012
| Posted on Wednesday, 16 November, 2016 - 04:58: | |
Paul, would you know the Citreon part number that covers these? My ex employer will give me discount!! |
Ron Vale
New User Username: silverfoxcc
Post Number: 6 Registered: 4-2012
| Posted on Wednesday, 16 November, 2016 - 05:40: | |
Ignore my last message. further reading put me right!! |
Ron Vale
New User Username: silverfoxcc
Post Number: 7 Registered: 4-2012
| Posted on Friday, 18 November, 2016 - 09:16: | |
Before i part with hard earned cash. i have had spheres gone equals verd ride, and by that i would guess it rattles the fillings,and sphers gone bouncy ride and by that the rear seat passengers touch the roof going over small bumps. So what is correct? I have the bouncy castle symptoms |
gary webb
Yet to post message Username: webbgw
Post Number: 1 Registered: 6-2014
| Posted on Friday, 18 November, 2016 - 10:42: | |
hi ron sorry my vin number for my car SCAZS000XBCH03067 regards gary |
gary webb
New User Username: webbgw
Post Number: 2 Registered: 6-2014
| Posted on Friday, 18 November, 2016 - 10:45: | |
hi ron yes spheres gone i have a 1981 spirit with 18000 miles getting ready to sell it has right rear sphere gone bounces over road ps i have good parts available for cars 80 / 04 available gary webb |
Paul Yorke
Grand Master Username: paul_yorke
Post Number: 1679 Registered: 6-2006
| Posted on Friday, 18 November, 2016 - 20:01: | |
Like "the bumps " when on a kids see saw? Or being pushed along IN a wheel barrow with a solid tyre? |
Mark Aldridge
Grand Master Username: mark_aldridge
Post Number: 363 Registered: 10-2008
| Posted on Saturday, 19 November, 2016 - 03:43: | |
Paul, I cant think of a better description ! Mark |
Ron Vale
New User Username: silverfoxcc
Post Number: 8 Registered: 4-2012
| Posted on Saturday, 19 November, 2016 - 10:43: | |
Paul more the former! i had the bride and father really oscillating on Sat, and i wasnt too far behind them.It felt as though there was no resistance at all. If you can remember the 'good old days' on a Ford the test was push down once up and settle. Whilst i havent got the strength nowadays to do that on the Spirit it would be push down,release, go and have a cup of tea and then finally watch it stop!!!! It is like being in one of the early 60's US barges. On and while it is past midnight now, i am pretty sure that the rear hasnt 'settled' and is still at a very hight level. Am out all day tomorrow so will do a measure on Sun Morning. It used to settle so much that the wheel carrier would catch the ladder i had underneath, i then used to watch the rear rise up to its running position ( i wish i had kept the measurements!) |
gordon le feuvre
Prolific User Username: triumph
Post Number: 141 Registered: 7-2012
| Posted on Thursday, 24 November, 2016 - 21:17: | |
Paul is correct. When active car stationary, no feed to either solenoid. This is so car does not "sit" on take off. Then when moving, changes from hard at low speed to comfort/sport depending on speed etc. If system fails/defaults designed to set dampers to hard by having no feed. This is for safety, so that an owner does not tear off into sunset on soft mode! Active really does work, remember the original training at Crewe. Was in active car following pre-active around Cheshire, could really see car in front rolling, where our car was flat. |
Ron Vale
New User Username: silverfoxcc
Post Number: 9 Registered: 4-2012
| Posted on Thursday, 01 December, 2016 - 02:34: | |
Having been seconded on house duties for a few days, nothing hs been done on rectifying the problem. however just to cler any niggles i might have before setting about putting on new spheres a question Last year i had the LH spring and bottom bracket replaced. I would guess that in order to do this the system would have to be depressurised. If on completion the bleed nipple wasnt tightened up would that give the same symptons of a very bouncy ride? ( havent had a chance to check the fluid level in the front containers yet.) |
Paul Yorke
Grand Master Username: paul_yorke
Post Number: 1690 Registered: 6-2006
| Posted on Thursday, 01 December, 2016 - 05:05: | |
I would guess that in order to do this the system would have to be depressurised. No. If on completion the bleed nipple wasnt tightened up would that give the same symptons of a very bouncy ride? ( havent had a chance to check the fluid level in the front containers yet.) No, it would leave a trail & puddles of fluid on the floor. It would also be sitting on it's arse. |
Ron Vale
New User Username: silverfoxcc
Post Number: 10 Registered: 4-2012
| Posted on Thursday, 01 December, 2016 - 06:18: | |
Paul appreciate there is no such thing as a stupid question.. its only the person that asks it! lol Ron |
Paul Yorke
Grand Master Username: paul_yorke
Post Number: 1691 Registered: 6-2006
| Posted on Thursday, 01 December, 2016 - 09:26: | |
Oh god Ron. Sorry if that sounded that way . that wasn't the tone I said it in. Best regards, Paul. |
Ron Vale
Experienced User Username: silverfoxcc
Post Number: 11 Registered: 4-2012
| Posted on Friday, 02 December, 2016 - 05:18: | |
Paul, I never even considered it! The written word does not have the inflection of the spoken word, and cannot convey a wink or a smile.! I just cannot get my head around the 'hard ride' if the spheres go phut. To me hard ride is like being pushed in a shopping trolley over Belgian pave, whereas a soft ride is rather like sitting on a jelly on springs ( which i the condition i have) bouncy bouncy bouncy. Oh to have Carol Vorderman in the back with the rear view mirror adjusted!!! |
Ron Vale
Experienced User Username: silverfoxcc
Post Number: 12 Registered: 4-2012
| Posted on Sunday, 21 May, 2017 - 08:59: | |
OK, warm weather arrived,then rained. But typically RR technology, every video/instruction i have read, does not tell you about the two coils of tubing right in front of the spheres so you cannot get at them!!. Couple of pics attached, apologies if the appear 90 degrees to the left. So how do i get around this? |
Ron Vale
Experienced User Username: silverfoxcc
Post Number: 13 Registered: 4-2012
| Posted on Sunday, 21 May, 2017 - 09:01: | |
Arrghhh no pics! |
Paul Yorke
Grand Master Username: paul_yorke
Post Number: 1814 Registered: 6-2006
| Posted on Sunday, 21 May, 2017 - 09:08: | |
So how do i get around this? turn the camera through 90 degrees? Smileeey Face The spheres will come by them. Or take them off the connector to get more flexibility. |
Charles Drakoulas
Experienced User Username: free_spirit
Post Number: 18 Registered: 1-2016
| Posted on Sunday, 21 May, 2017 - 09:29: | |
Ron, if you are talking about the two curly hydraulic lines right in front of the rear spheres, I had the same problem not to long ago.I figured that the offensive hydraulic line didn't grow there. It then dawned upon me to remove the top tray that holds the jack and tool kit. Unbelievable! Everything became accessible and I was able to remove the top fixing on both sides. |
Ron Vale
Experienced User Username: silverfoxcc
Post Number: 14 Registered: 4-2012
| Posted on Monday, 22 May, 2017 - 03:03: | |
Charles Have an internet pint. Will have another look at the weekend Thanks Ron |
Brian Vogel
Grand Master Username: guyslp
Post Number: 2306 Registered: 6-2009
| Posted on Monday, 22 May, 2017 - 07:49: | |
Ron, The easiest way to include pictures is using the backslash image command documented on the Forum Formatting Instructions Page under the Images, Attachments, and Clipart section. While I try to use text description that's accurate, it can be quite simple, and some people just stick something like, "pic1", etc., inside the backslash image command. Maximum image size is limited to 640x640 pixels due to the age of this software. You will most likely need to size down any picture you've taken since most cameras, including those on smartphones, use a much higher resolution than this as their lowest resolution. Brian |