| Author | Message | ||
     michael vass Prolific User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 212 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi All I know this has been asked before (but always went off on a tangent) but what engine oil grade(s) are best for a '89 turbo? with 85k miles on. I would like to know others experiences and recommendations. Cheers Mike | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 410 Registered: 8-2007 |
Religious topic: for what is worth: I use Castrol Edge 0W 60 I am happy with no leaks. | ||
| michael vass Prolific User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 213 Registered: 7-2015 |
Thanks Lluis That's extreme 😍 what's your oil pressures like hot and cold? Cheers Mike | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 411 Registered: 8-2007 |
All in the white mark, why? | ||
| michael vass Prolific User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 214 Registered: 7-2015 |
Ho again Lluis Did you mean 10W 60? Or 0w 40? Cheers Mike | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 318 Registered: 4-2016 |
Hi Mike. As your car only has 85k on the clock, I would be using the factory specified oil. If the car has been serviced as per the book, the age of the car is irrelevant. Just the mileage on the engine is all that matters in your case. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 319 Registered: 4-2016 |
Michael. You mentioned oil pressure. Do you feel you have a problem here? | ||
| michael vass Prolific User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 215 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi Patrick My oil pressure just drops out of the white when hot and I've not changed the oil yet in 18months so don't know whats in it, so I would like to change it although it looks as clean as new oil. My handbook is 30 years old and there has been a lot of development in oils since then, thats why I wondered what others are using. thanks Mike | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 412 Registered: 8-2007 |
Hi, 18 months is a lot of time. Also beware that senders do get lazy. I meant edge 10w60 that is one ten and one sixty. Apologies. Change it for anything full synthetic with the turbo and you will be fine for Europe weather. The topic somehow has billions of opinions but I like edge because it is a very low detergent oil. My engine was fully serviced 30000km ago and is all clean so I rather keep it low in detergents. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 321 Registered: 4-2016 |
Hi Mike, Just so we can all get a handle on your cars useage, how many miles has your car travelled in the 18 months? Also has it had long periods of inactivity, or regular start ups? | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2010 Registered: 6-2009 |
Michael, Check your pressure sender as the first order of business. Oil pressure failure is extremely rare. Bad pressure senders or installation of a substitute that does not send the correct reading to the gauge is not. My Shadow II has had a substitute installed that gives low readings once the car is warm and when idling. When checked with an actual pressure gauge everything's within normal limits, so I've just compensated for what "the lowest that's safe" on the gauge with this sender is. Brian | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Grand Master Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 320 Registered: 4-2015 |
Brian... I have always wondered about being able to "check with an actual pressure gauge" mostly to do as you did, to determine the accuracy of the gauge and compensate mentally if necessary. How is that done? Where did you tap into the oil pressure on the engine? What sort of gauge was used? Thanks! | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1308 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Christian I am sure Brian will be able to answer your question more comprehensively, but thought I'd add my two cents worth. If you google "engine oil pressure test kit" you will get plenty of responses. The following link shows the Harbor Freight offering. http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html The gauge has a length of flexible tubing that screws into the sender plug hole. The kits come with various fittings for different thread sizes however I am not sure if the RR thread is covered. You would have to check it out. Geoff | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2011 Registered: 6-2009 |
Christian, In this case this was prior to my DIY days. That being said, my understanding is that the arrangement is precisely as Geoff describes. This makes perfect logical sense. The parallel construction for checking the accumulator and accumulator control valve is a pressure gauge usually screwed in to the bleed valve port on the ACV. Pressure measurements are typically made by attaching a gauge to wherever "the usual sensor" would screw in (or similar, in the case of the ACV, which one could theoretically create a permanent gauge for, if one were so inclined). Also, given the number of fittings shown on that Harbor Freight page it's highly unlikely that one that fits our cars isn't in that collection. It's already been documented by one of the regulars here, Randy Roberson (if memory serves), that the low oil pressure safety switch is a dirt common unit that fits a 1973 Chevrolet (and other GM cars). If memory serves from having looked at this alongside the pressure sender itself they thread into two ports right beside one another that look very similar, if not exactly the same. Brian, now off to bed | ||
| michael vass Prolific User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 216 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi Patrick & All I have probably only done 2000 miles since I owned the car but don't know when the last oil change was for sure. I'm sure the guage is fairly accurate as when cool it is well in the white ,it just drops when hot idle ok Thanks for all the info Mike | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Grand Master Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 321 Registered: 4-2015 |
Geoff and Brian...Thanks. I was wondering about a way to have a direct pressure gauge in addition to, rather than in lieu of, the electrical gauge, such that the two reading could be compared simultaneously in operating conditions. The early filter housing only had two senders, one for gauge, one for pressure light, so will have to find a "T" fitting for one or the other if I want to go that route. I was mostly wondering if there was some other place than the filter housing that could be tapped, but the housing is most logical. Thanks. | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 564 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi Michael as you don't know the history of your cars last oil change or filter change I would make it a priority on your list of things to do one less thing to worry about. Richard. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 322 Registered: 4-2016 |
Michael. This can be a horror story of mammoth proportions in the making. Unless you have a full service history, or know the owner and his mechanic. I advise the very FIRST thing one does when buying a used car Rolls Royce or other is to go through all drivetrain components and replace the lubricants. You mentioned that your oil is clean as, this indicates to me that it may not be doing what it is meant to do and that is clean and suspend impurities from combustion while lubricating. This is why we need to change engine oil. Just for the record, I change my Shadow oil every 6 months or 5000 miles whichever occurs first. With modern oils and fuels I could easily double this, but I just don't, oil changes are cheap insurance. The reason this is so important is that someone may have used the complete wrong lube as trying to cut costs on a car they can't maintain properly. Incompatible oil in LSD is a classic example. As Richard rightly suggests this is a priority. Maybe your oil pressure issue will be rectified with an oil change with correct oil. |
