| Author | Message | ||
     Edward Mckinley New User Username: ed_mckinley Post Number: 2 Registered: 2-2013 |
After replacing all the flexible hoses, spheres, and pump "O" rings I am now going to bleed the system. I see that Mr. Treacy posted an abbreviated method on the RROC forum back in Oct 2007 (which is much simpler than the manual outlines). I have bleed the system before but wanted to know if there had been any more developments in the process or tricks, tips, etc. As always, any help is greatly appreciated. Ed | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 2777 Registered: 4-2003 |
Ed, May I just confirm that the method works fine at least for me. I have serviced and then bled the mineral oil systems on both my SZs over the past months with no issue at all. RT. | ||
| Edward Mckinley New User Username: ed_mckinley Post Number: 3 Registered: 2-2013 |
Thank you, I plan to use your method as the procedure outlined in the manual uses (wastes) a lot of fluid | ||
| Brian Vogel Prolific User Username: guyslp Post Number: 250 Registered: 6-2009 |
Richard, Is the procedure essentially the same as what I wrote up in Flush and Bleed Your Silver Shadow/Bentley T Hydraulics/Brakes the Easy Way, which is directly based upon your instructions? I'd like to create a version of these instructions for the SZ series and if I recall correctly the technique is precisely the same, you just don't deal with taking apart the reservoir and the height control bit is substituted with bleeding the gas springs. [It goes without saying that HSMO is substituted for RR363 in all references to fluid.] Brian | ||
| Edward Mckinley New User Username: ed_mckinley Post Number: 4 Registered: 2-2013 |
It seems the main difference is that both of these methods are basically bleeding the system at pressure while the manual has you bleed it without pressure. Since the manual has you open all the nipples at once and run the car, pressure isnt going to be able to accumulate. |
