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MichaelCarr
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 86.182.171.16
Posted on Tuesday, 09 March, 2021 - 08:01:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

SRH3972.

As above, please could you proffer some help? I reversed the old girl out of the barn and as I was manoeuvring the engine died. I turned the key to restart it and nothing happened.

Symptoms:
1. No ignition/oil lights illuminated
2. Interior lights work
3. Headlamps work
4.Park/neutral can be selected.
5.When switching the ignition on/off, a relay can be heard to click behind the centre of the dashboard.
6. I have removed the Switch box and cannot see any apparent faults e.g. snapped connectors, corrosion, missing points.
7. I have checked all glove box fuses.

I am inclined to believe that the fault is electric due to the sudden failure but don't know what to do next.

I have tried to make sense of the Wiring Diags but the colours don't appear to correspond to mine (a late 1980 SS2).

I do have a multimeter and a screw driver.....

Seriously though, any help would be really appreciated .

Thank you. Mike

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Omar M. Shams
Grand Master
Username: omar

Post Number: 2123
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 09 March, 2021 - 17:03:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

sometimes the fuses tell lies.
look at the power supply to the two sides of the fuses first.
make sure you are seeing power at both sides of the live fuses.
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Alan Dibley
Frequent User
Username: alsdibley

Post Number: 288
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 09 March, 2021 - 19:52:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Michael, where are you - geographically?

And do Omar's check with the ignition switched on.

Alan D.
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JohnCharles
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 185.125.207.156
Posted on Tuesday, 09 March, 2021 - 16:37:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Check the back of the ignition switch. There is a solid copper connector that goes from one side of the switch to the other. It is covered with yellow heat shrink. Check it for continuity as the connection is two pieces of copper soldered together covered with the heat shrink and I have had the solder give up. It cannot be seen because of the heat shrink but test it thoroughly, give it a wiggle when testing.

The symptoms you describe are very similar to this being the problem.

It is quite a pain to repair but doable.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer

Post Number: 2426
Registered: 09-2004
Posted on Tuesday, 09 March, 2021 - 21:08:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Looks like geographically London!

Have you checked the terminals on the Amp gauge?
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Hubert Kelly
Frequent User
Username: h_kelly

Post Number: 421
Registered: 03-2012
Posted on Wednesday, 10 March, 2021 - 18:26:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Have you tried the starter solenoid, if it doesn't kick the starter, ...loose battery terminal. .. or indeed just check battery terminal/lead.

This happened to me once, I disconnected battery during storage, ..reconnected same lights ignition etc came on but when it came to starting car nothing... after lots of diagnosis ... simple loose battery lead
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Michael Carr
Experienced User
Username: carsie

Post Number: 76
Registered: 07-2016
Posted on Thursday, 11 March, 2021 - 02:41:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thnx Gents for your comments; I'll be heading back down to the barn at the weekend.

Your comment seems interesting JohnCharles.

Why the terminals on the Amp gauge Patrick? is that to confirm power is reaching the starter?

The lack of dashboard lights is the intrigue Hubert.

Keep them coming; all appreciated!

Best.

Carsie (Based just a few miles up the road from P&A Woods)
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Michael Carr
Experienced User
Username: carsie

Post Number: 77
Registered: 07-2016
Posted on Thursday, 11 March, 2021 - 04:09:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

JohnCharles - Yellow sheathed connector all good on the Multimeter.

I'm thinking Omar's suggestion on the fuses. I did check the actual fuses for continuity and I'm sure I checked the fuse holder but will check again.
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gordon le feuvre
Frequent User
Username: triumph

Post Number: 363
Registered: 07-2012
Posted on Friday, 12 March, 2021 - 21:01:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Michael, had similar issue, put in new ign. fuse still same problem. Mine is '73 Corniche. transpires new ORIGINAL spare fuse was u/s. Got new set from flying spares-problem resolved.
So as Omar says, check for feed both sides fus when installed in holder.
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ross kowalski
Prolific User
Username: cdfpw

Post Number: 1532
Registered: 11-2015
Posted on Saturday, 13 March, 2021 - 11:08:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Michael,

On my car I thought that the red reset breaker in the fuse panel had something to do with shifting, might be good to check that as well.

I might be remembering it incorrectly, but a quick look at the wiring diagram should confirm if it is related at all.
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AdrianJ
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 146.200.18.111
Posted on Sunday, 14 March, 2021 - 07:03:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

John Charles comment on the connector (back of switch box)covered in yellow heat shrink has happened to a Silver Wraith 11 I had - so not an isolated occurrence. On my Wraith sometimes it would make connection illuminating ign light and then nothing.
It should however be a solid flat strip with no solder, the solder on John Charles was presumably a repair by someone.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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John Kilkenny
Frequent User
Username: john_kilkenny

Post Number: 332
Registered: 06-2005
Posted on Sunday, 14 March, 2021 - 09:39:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Regarding the red re-settable cutout on the fuse panel, it is there to cut the current to the shift actuator if it doesn't happen automatically after a new gear is selected.

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