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Patrick Francis
Frequent User
Username: jackpot

Post Number: 55
Registered: 11-2016
Posted on Sunday, 26 March, 2017 - 10:28:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Does anybody know what the best way to pass a cable from the engine compartment into the cabin?
I have just installed a water loss sensor in the radiator top hose and need to run the cable into the cabin.
What I have found is a square of male spade connections on the RHS lower bulkhead that all the cables are connected to, which I guess have correspondin connectors inside the cabin. I could use one of these if there are any spare ones, but have not checked yet, in case someone has experience.
Thanks
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Alan Dibley
Experienced User
Username: alsdibley

Post Number: 48
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Sunday, 26 March, 2017 - 19:11:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

These are "toe-board" connectors. There are plenty of spares. The bits on the inside of the cabin are mirror images of the bits in the engine bay. While working on them be aware that some are permanently live, so disconnect the battery. I have made an odd-shaped bit of steel rod to make it easier to remove the engine-side plugs. The inside ones are easier, but you have to be double-jointed.

Alan D.
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Martin Taylor
Frequent User
Username: martin_taylor

Post Number: 67
Registered: 7-2013
Posted on Sunday, 26 March, 2017 - 20:15:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Your car already has a coolant monitor in the header tank?
Extra cables can be passed through the rubber grommets for the speedo cable
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Patrick Francis
Frequent User
Username: jackpot

Post Number: 56
Registered: 11-2016
Posted on Sunday, 26 March, 2017 - 22:42:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks. Martin, what I have installed is an alarmed sensor for total coolant loss ie blown hose etc. When that happens, the high temp alarm does not work since there is no water to "sense". If that makes sense?😊
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ross kowalski
Grand Master
Username: cdfpw

Post Number: 333
Registered: 11-2015
Posted on Sunday, 26 March, 2017 - 23:42:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick,

I think the RR SHadow has a coolant level sensor as well as a temp gauge.
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Patrick Francis
Frequent User
Username: jackpot

Post Number: 57
Registered: 11-2016
Posted on Monday, 27 March, 2017 - 02:30:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Ross
Mine is:
SRH 17968 Shadow 1
No gauge, just an alarm and low water sensor. I used to race cars, and when we had an aggressive coolant blow, losing all the water quickly, the gauge would not react since it had no water to "sense", and would show a cool or medium reading.
On the Rolls, if I lose all the water suddenly, the alarm may not sound and the low coolant light would encourage me to check the coolant at the next sevice stop, which may be too late.
The gadget that I have installed, I purchased after reading discussions on the issue on this forum. It is a sensor that goes in line in the top rad hose.
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Jean-christophe Jost
Experienced User
Username: jc_jost

Post Number: 32
Registered: 3-2016
Posted on Monday, 27 March, 2017 - 03:17:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Did I get it right about spare connectors ?

Here are the 6 right handside wiring looms on SRH25085. Can I use the empty sockets pointed on the picture for a connection ?

Thanks.

Wiring loom Silver Shadow right Hand Drive
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ross kowalski
Grand Master
Username: cdfpw

Post Number: 334
Registered: 11-2015
Posted on Monday, 27 March, 2017 - 10:23:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick,

I just looked at how the original low coolant sensor works. It apparently has an amplifier circuit and a couple probes. Makes me wonder if mine still works after nearly 50 years?
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1659
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Monday, 27 March, 2017 - 12:09:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Ross

If the coolant warning light comes on in test mode then it is very likely ok, The test circuit includes the amp. This does not of course rule out a problem with the probes. If you siphoned coolant out of the header tank it would be interesting to see if it still works.

Geoff
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gordon le feuvre
Prolific User
Username: triumph

Post Number: 185
Registered: 7-2012
Posted on Monday, 27 March, 2017 - 18:21:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The factory were aware of issues of coolant loss even though the header tank was still full. This was mostly from rear of engine/heater hoses etc. hence the introduction of the high metal temp buzzer located in the top of "A" bank cylinder head. can't now remember when this was introduced though.
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Alan Dibley
Experienced User
Username: alsdibley

Post Number: 49
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, 27 March, 2017 - 19:19:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

"Here are the 6 right handside wiring looms on SRH25085. Can I use the empty sockets pointed on the picture for a connection ?"

Yes, there are double-ended pins in the chassis-mounted plug assembly. You must find two female connector parts to add wiring to one of those sockets. There is often/always one missing on each toe-board connector to aid in identifying which one goes where, and prevent accidental wrong connection.

Alan D.
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Jean-christophe Jost
Experienced User
Username: jc_jost

Post Number: 33
Registered: 3-2016
Posted on Monday, 27 March, 2017 - 20:03:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Alan,

That's very helpful. Thank you.
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Jean-christophe Jost
Experienced User
Username: jc_jost

Post Number: 34
Registered: 3-2016
Posted on Monday, 27 March, 2017 - 20:10:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

By the way, another picture to make it perfectly clear

double ended pins; missing pin.

Excuse me if I'm a picture maniac ;-)

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Jeff Young
Grand Master
Username: jeyjey

Post Number: 329
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Monday, 27 March, 2017 - 20:14:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

JC, never apologise for too many pictures. There's no such thing!

Cheers,
Jeff.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 1292
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Monday, 27 March, 2017 - 21:07:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Remember the old saying Jean.

A picture speaks a thousand words.

I'm a picture junkie as well, so all good.
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Omar M. Shams
Grand Master
Username: omar

Post Number: 1152
Registered: 4-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 28 March, 2017 - 04:25:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dear Patrick,
I have had the exact same problem happen to me in real life. Once in a 1987 Spur and once in a Daimler Doublesix. Both times the top radiator hose ripped itself off the radiator and on both occasions you would need to have been Stevie Wonder to not figure out that something catastrophic has happened and that you need to stop immediately.
Coolant goes everywhere - hits the fan is sprayed everywhere makes a real racket and stinks too. Lots of steam pours out of every orifice and you REALLY get to know that something bad has happened. You are alerted using 3 senses simultaneously.
If you are fearing the incident going un-noticed - fear not. You will see it, smell it and hear it.
If it was necessary lots of people would have these sensors fitted.

Thanks
Omar
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Patrick Francis
Frequent User
Username: jackpot

Post Number: 60
Registered: 11-2016
Posted on Tuesday, 28 March, 2017 - 06:31:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Omar. that will definitely help me sleep/drive better (not both at the same time)
I already have the gizmo installed, so I guess I am "belts and braces"! as far as an aggressive water blow is concerned.
Ta
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Mark Luft
Experienced User
Username: bentleyman1993

Post Number: 44
Registered: 10-2016
Posted on Tuesday, 28 March, 2017 - 07:13:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick, by installing said alarm, you have (according to Murphy's Law) eliminated the possibility of a total coolant blow for ever in your car.
Congratulations!
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 2233
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 28 March, 2017 - 09:12:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

As an aside triggered by Jean-Christophe's last photo: Take a look at those slides and how oxidized (at a minimum) they've become and how one or two have developed verdigris.

Any time you have connections like this apart (and are sure, of course, that nothing is live) you should make an effort to apply chemical dexoxidizer (e.g. Caig DeOxIt, TV Tuner cleaner) or mechanically clean them with fine steel wool. Then promptly coat the clean connectors with a very thin coating of something like Sanchem NoOxID A-Special or Gardner-Bender Ox-Gard.

The female side should definitely be spritzed with the deoxidizer, too, as getting any kind of access to them to mechanically clean them is impractical.

I have found over time that I have never needed to revisit an electrical connection thus treated at a later point in time.

Brian
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ross kowalski
Grand Master
Username: cdfpw

Post Number: 335
Registered: 11-2015
Posted on Tuesday, 28 March, 2017 - 10:21:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Geoff,

The coolant light on my car does not come on when I press the test button. I guess I'll have to check into that.
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 2235
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 28 March, 2017 - 10:29:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Ross,

See my write-up on UD19427 Rolls-Royce/Bentley Coolant Level Amplifier Repair

Brian
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1662
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 28 March, 2017 - 13:09:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Ross

If it's not a blown bulb it is highly likely to be the coolant level amp. It's very common for these to have failed. No wonder, after 40 years. Mine was no exception. I rebuilt it by following Brian's excellent document, that he points to in the previous entry.

Geoff
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1663
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 28 March, 2017 - 13:23:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

In addition to Brian's document I also found the following circuit diagram very useful. Thanks to John Kilkenny for making it available on the forum.

diag

From the diagram you can see the test relay is not just across the warning lamp, it tests the amplifier as well.
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Jeff Cheng
Frequent User
Username: makeshift

Post Number: 77
Registered: 2-2016
Posted on Tuesday, 28 March, 2017 - 22:23:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I asked this same question as fitting a water temp gauge was the first thing I added to my Shadow when I got it.

Here is my thread, which also has some interesting answers.
http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/22254.html

I ended up routing my sender wire through the rubber grommet into the fresh air intake plenum, the through another into the cabin.
Not the neatest arrangement, but simple and easily reversible.
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Jean-christophe Jost
Experienced User
Username: jc_jost

Post Number: 35
Registered: 3-2016
Posted on Wednesday, 29 March, 2017 - 06:04:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Brian,

You are right and I'll take your advice on how to clean and preserve the slides. The first picture is actually after some cleaning had been made.

Here is the initial condition.

Oxydized connectors

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