| Author | Message | ||
     Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 359 Registered: 4-2016 |
Gents, I purchased this Alemite grease nipple adaptor from a Chev guy in the USA quite some time ago for my 1925 Chevrolet Superior K. Do you know of anyone who does them to suit the British flat head (sorry don't know the correct name)type of grease nipple?   | ||
| Chris Miller Grand Master Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 430 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Patrick, I got mine from Grainger. They called it a Button Fitting. Chris. | ||
| Kelly Opfar Frequent User Username: kelly_opfar Post Number: 99 Registered: 7-2004 |
McMaster-Carr sells this one: http://www.mcmaster.com/#2906k97/=13gkkm6 | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 361 Registered: 4-2016 |
Thanks guys. I will check those out. McMaster look as though they don't send over seas. I will check them out properly at work in the morning. | ||
| Jeff Young Prolific User Username: jeyjey Post Number: 264 Registered: 10-2010 |
MSC ship internationally: http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Lubricants-Coolants-Fluids/Grease-Gun-Couplers-Nozzles-Accessories?searchterm=button+head+grease&navid=4287924142 | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2031 Registered: 6-2009 |
I've got a list of multiple sources (including at least one or two of the above) in the RR & Bentley Parts, Repair, Restoration & Other Resources Compilation. Search for "grease" and you'll find them. Brian | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 365 Registered: 4-2016 |
Thanks guys, I ordered one from MCS. Do you guys run any particular type of grease in your cars? Or is just a general purpose chassis grease ok? | ||
| John Beech Prolific User Username: jbeech Post Number: 197 Registered: 10-2016 |
The one from McMaster-Carr looks easier to use - am I mistaken? | ||
| Mark Aldridge Grand Master Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 402 Registered: 10-2008 |
I use high melting point Moly grease in all applications, except handbrake mechanism which is exposed to water (UK !) For this I use marine stern tube grease which is waterproof, and adheres well. I have just purchase 6kg of Aero shell 33 grease ( out of use by date for CAA). This is a synthetic corrosion resisting and waterproof grease and high melting point. Will try on exposed linkages.Certainly has not washed off gate locks etc this winter. Mark | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1606 Registered: 5-2012 |
John - I use the adapter type similar to the one shown in the McMaster link i.e. through 90 degrees. This is important for access on the steering and front suspension points. I bought it over the counter from Grainger. There should be one near you. Mark - thanks for the tip on Moly grease. I'm always unsure what type to use. Geoff | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1303 Registered: 5-2015 |
Castrol LM chassis grease is good stuff. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2432 Registered: 4-2003 |
"Castrol LM chassis grease is good stuff - Robert." IMHO, Castrol LMM is even better for extreme pressure usage [e.g. suspension and steering ball joints and universal joint cruciform bearings] due to its higher Molybdenum disulphide content which confers very low friction with consequent increased service life in extreme pressure sliding wear conditions. I have owned several purchased-new private vehicles over the years where I used LMM for regularly greasing these components [if sealed-for-life, these are either modified with grease nipples for this purpose or replaced with greasable equivalents]. These vehicles individually have covered 450,000+km [280,000+miles] and none of these items have required replacement let alone shown any signs of excessive wear. This is essential as I currently do a lot of dirt road driving and fording river crossings which mean regular lubrication is essential. Sealed-for-life components might be fine for city driving but can be the cause of a breakdown in a remote location [Murphy's Law] with no mobile phone coverage and a long walk if another vehicle does not appear on the scene. My 4WD has double drive belts for the alternator, water pump and fan for this reason as failure of one belt means you still have a functioning drive belt to get you home. The non-essential air conditioning compressor and power steering hydraulic pump have individual single belt drives. I always use a Bentone-based non-melting grease for ball and roller bearings due to its resistance to melting in high-temperature service environments [e.g. Castrol HTB bearing grease - now HTB 2]. This grease gives exceptional performance to idler pulley bearings on engine drive belts and whenever these bearings are replaced as a preventative maintenance item, I always remove the new replacement bearing dust caps with a needle point tool, flush out the manufacturer's grease and repack with HTB before replacing the dust caps and installation. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1092 Registered: 4-2016 |
All terrific advice David. I have found sealed for life items quite good and reliable when normal highway use (regardless of mileage travelled) is the norm. But as soon as you add water to the equation it all falls down. Normal rain water on the odd occasion is ok, but as soon as you add regular creek or stream crossings the reliability is gone. In regards to belts, again great advice and great back ups. However a vehicle with a single serpentine belt can be an issue. Having one belt drive everything is good, but also not so good on some occasions. The belts themselves are quite cheap. Just keep one handy, but be sure to photograph, or draw the rout the belt takes, as once it is off, it is nearly impossible to re rout one without a diagram. Some Aussie cars have a decal under the bonnet showing this. For those of you not familiar with serpentine belts, or sometimes called ribbed V belt here are a few pics. One belt doing the lot.  How the belt wears and slips  Typical aged and worn belt  The wear indicator that is on the spring loaded belt tensioner. Check the wear limits on this with the engine running plus give it a bit of a rev to see if the indicator falls into the "replace" field.  Belt running in the "OK" area  |
