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Robert C
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 121.45.92.143
Posted on Friday, 15 March, 2013 - 18:48:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi,

Over the past few months, the LHR window has become temperamental, but has now stopped working completely. Yesterday I thought I might have a look. The motor was seized. I removed the window assembly and dismantled the motor, cleaned it all up, and reassembled. As I refitted the assembly, I shorted a wire to earth momentarily. There is now no voltage to that corner. All other windows work.

So, a few questions. Are the windows fused individually? Are there thermal cut outs?

Any help appreciated.


Regards
Robert

(Message approved by david_gore)
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John Kilkenny
Prolific User
Username: john_kilkenny

Post Number: 156
Registered: 6-2005
Posted on Saturday, 16 March, 2013 - 08:56:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Robert,
The window motors are individually fused.
Drivers side front F15
Drivers side rear F16
Pass side Front F17
Pass side rear F18

John
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Robert C
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 121.45.92.143
Posted on Saturday, 16 March, 2013 - 11:58:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thank you! Unfortunately the motor now goes down, but not up. The relay clicks, though. I understand these are horrendously expensive - is there an alternative?

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 987
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Saturday, 16 March, 2013 - 19:52:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Robert,

Take it out again and check that all the soldered connections are ok and that the points are ok on the relays.

If you can't resuscitate it I would be fit a new mechanism to the front door and use that good motor in the rear mechanism.

This is a much easier and cheaper and more reliable way of repairing your car.

We have been doing these conversions for 20+ years and selling the parts for owners for DIY conversions. No complaints yet and doesn't take too much skill.
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John Kilkenny
Prolific User
Username: john_kilkenny

Post Number: 157
Registered: 6-2005
Posted on Saturday, 16 March, 2013 - 22:10:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Robert,
Before pulling everything apart if you are handy with a meter use this diagram to check for broken or faulty connections. I think it is relevant for your car.

John

Window Circuit
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 988
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Saturday, 16 March, 2013 - 23:32:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

That looks like a square type motor wiring diagram not the piper type .
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Robert C
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 121.45.92.143
Posted on Sunday, 17 March, 2013 - 09:54:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Paul and John,

Thanks - how much is the kit?

That diagram doesn't match what I have.

The solenoid on the motor clicks, but the motor doesn't function. As it is the same winding, presumably if the coil were ruined, it wouldn't work in either direction?

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 989
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Sunday, 17 March, 2013 - 18:35:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

hi Robert , I thought I posted that the wiring diagram looks like a square motor system .

It's not a kit as such but is fairly straight forward to fit .

£175 for a used serviced mechanism .

Did you check the relay points are making contact ? They can close but have no continuity .

Piper motor rebuilds are about £500.

Also check that the limit switches are working .

A kit to change your mechanism to a modern reliable cheaper motor is also available but are about £500 again .
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John Kilkenny
Prolific User
Username: john_kilkenny

Post Number: 158
Registered: 6-2005
Posted on Monday, 18 March, 2013 - 11:49:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Robert,
Sorry about the diagram, I assumed a 1967 car (what is the serial no ?)would use the original circuit or a very similar one. Does your motor change direction with separate field windings or by reversing a single field winding. If the latter I agree that if it works one way it should work the other. Have you checked the motor by connecting it directly to 12V ? You could also check the relay by substituting one from a good door. Does the fault occur with both the LHR switch and the driver's switch ?