| Author | Message | ||
     Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 44 Registered: 1-2008 |
Following on from my previous thread re. the rear brakes on The Old Girl I removed the offside caliper due to frozen/sheared nuts and had it completely rebuilt by a local brake specialist - GBP(£) 103 including new pistons, seals, bleed nipples, etc plus collection and redelivery. I think that was a fair price - or was it? Anyhoo: The offside caliper seems fine enough, but I reckon I'll take it off tomorrow and have it rebuilt. Might as well so I've got equal braking on both sides. So far, so good but Now I'm thinking about the front calipers ... What would be a fair price to have all 4 rebuilt to the same standards at the same time? Alternatively is there an overhaul kit I can buy and fit myself? I've scanned eBay and the only seller of them is in the US and he only sells kits for one caliper a time at GBP(£)54 + S&H. Hardly worth the saving  | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 305 Registered: 6-2006 |
Jan, that seems very fair  Front seal kit is about £35 Front pistons, about £10 each. (both plus vat and P&P ) Personally, I very rarely find the need to split a calliper - new seals and pistons are usually all they need. Oh - plus the dreaded nipples | ||
| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 45 Registered: 1-2008 |
Jogger's Nipple Syndrome may be ... distracting, but seized nipples can destroy a brake caliper! In my case I had a seized nipple plus a seized pipe union on each side! I tried to get the nipples out with a stud extracter but it just sheared in the hole on the first attempt  . I wouldn't be at all surprised if I found similar on the front calipers. If this should be the case it is only prudent to have them completely rebuilt by experts. Might even take the master cylinder out and have that done at the same time. In the meantime I'm still looking for a set of hand brake pads as the old ones are showing signs of the friction material disintegrating. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1097 Registered: 4-2003 |
Well as an old amateur I suppose I have done the callipers on about twenty Shadows. Some of these have been UK imports and invariably I need sedation when I get to those callipers. Unlike Paul I always split them as I am at a loss how the bores could be cleaned otherwise. In addition one little foible is for the interconnecting drillings between the two halves always have hard gunk in them which can only be removed by splitting the unit and running a drill bit down the hole. I always polish the 'cylinders'with steel wool until they gleam and use a special hardened shaped scaper to clean the seal groves. Gunk in there, even the smallest bit and you will have a leak. There are special lipped annular seals readily available to seal the two halves of the callipers. Cleaning I do with wire brushes - a filthy job and very time consuming. Next time I hope to use soda blasting which is similar to sand blasting but without the damage. I may even powder coat the units. I almost always replace the pistons as they are usually corroded around the neck where the dust seal has rotted and let the muck in! If I have a broken nipple or a seized pipe nipple I have a paid man Friday who comes to the car and is yet to be beaten by any such problem. As to hand brake pads get your local friendly brake shop to bond pieces of lining onto the backing plates and file them to shape. The front callipers should pose no problem. If you can't undo the mounting bolts split the calliper in situ which will let you remove the rotor and you can then get to the pointy ends of the bolts to work on them. Please be sparing with the term 'experts'. Apart from frozen bolts in difficult places none of this is rocket science and mere fools such as I are quite capable with patience in getting the desired results. The reason this forum has flourished is because its contributors help and are prepared to 'give it a go'. This is a great improvement over the days when the Moet and Chandon crowd would preach that only trained mechanics, preferably by the Factory, could possibly work on these cars. This attitude was part of the perceived glamour and pretention that was cultivated in the interests of some owners who felt that they were socially elevated by spreading such nonsense. Rant ended. | ||
| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 46 Registered: 1-2008 |
As an inveterate DIYer I tend to agree with you, Bill. Over the years (decades?) I've overhauled many a braking system, even to the extent of redesigning single systems into dual jobbies with all new and/or overhauled (by me) components! However having failed so miserably with the seized nipple I think I'll let the experts have a bash at the calipers on The Old Girl. Just getting the buggers off has left me in unbelievable agony from my chronic arthritis! It doesn't help that I've also been rebuilding the engine out of my Toyota Estima after it threw a rod through the block in 2 places! As for the 'experts' ... I'm talking about a small chain called "Brakeline Factors" that specializes in nothing but brakes and clutches; not some general garage that does them as a sideline. They're due to collect the other rear caliper on Monday and give me a quote for the front set, at which time I'll decide whether to let them do them or not. Whether they can 'reline' the old pads: I'll just have to ask them. Incidentally - Rather than be running back and forth to the nearest motor factors to have brake pipes made up I've bought the necessary tools and consumables to make my own. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1098 Registered: 4-2003 |
Jan/ I was not meaning to be censorious my sensibilities have been belted so many times I tend to get more irritable as the days go by. My sympathies with Arthur, mine is as yet minor liberally dosed with glucosamine and forced piano playing. I just have to be grateful I can still bend the joints. Anyway the master cylinder is surely not worth fixing the new ones are still available. Paul has an idea of fixing the larger bore one from a Land Rover which I would love to try. Getting the things to give a nice pedal without later seizing the rear wheels is a bit of a challenge! But while you are at it do replace the cushion and seal in the 'G' valve. They rot and distribute their carcases through the whole system particularly in the solenoid! | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 810 Registered: 9-2004 |
Do read the "Help with bleed nipples please" this is under the Silver Wraith, Silver Dawn, Bentley Mk VI & R-Type. With pictures!!! This applies to all hydraulic cylinders and callipers with snapped nipples. The use of a Mig welder is needed. An easy fix that is not in the manuals. Prehaps David could put a listing under the relevent "type" cars to help folk! | ||
| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 48 Registered: 1-2008 |
A few final (I hope) questions before I try to remove the front calipers for overhauling/rebuilding: 1) Is it true that Crewe basically 'pinched' them off a Ford Cortina and fitted a pair to each wheel? 2) If so, would a pair of overhaul kits for said Dagenham Dustbin be within factory specs? 3) Are the discs/rotors generic (ie. plucked from a brake manufacturer's catalogue) or specific to the Shadow 1's? Ps. I realise that one or more of these questions may have previously been covered in the T1 Topics, but with the index only going up to Issue 63 I'm too idle to churn through the rest  | ||
| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 50 Registered: 1-2008 |
Update: After bludgeoning the 4 calipers off the front end I now ache from toenails to 'split ends' So far I've only cleaned up one of them ready for overhauling as the pistons were a sod to get out! Even had to resort to the output of my compressor to shift the buggers! Although the pistons are obviously scrap, the bores are nice and clean below the seal - Thank God. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1642 Registered: 4-2003 |
A quick note or two: I always use a sturdy pair of angled circlip pliers to pull the pistons out. It works even with the stiffest pistons. The last time I did the front calipers on our T-Series was on Saturday evening, and it didn't take long at all. It is far more positive to use circlip pliers than using puny 1,000kPa compressed air, the limit of my compressor, or a fluid pressure pump. Some people simply reconnect the brake hoses and punch the brake pedal, but that usually only pushes one piston out. Forgive me, but I have never seen a SY caliper piston in need of replacement, and the SZ mineral oil ones have practically no possibility of seizing. Maybe that's beacuse all the cars I have seen have been serviced at least once in the previous five years. The caliper seals and boots are bog-standard from any spares outlet: best take an old one as a pattern, but I think that they are the same as on an HR-HZ Holden, a Datsun 180B-200B and a Ford Cortina. The front pads are generic too, but I always worry about using a material which may chew the discs to bits. Use genuines, as they only cost UKL50 or so. I also wouldn't bother saving 20 bucks to spend all that time organising a set of bonded and profiled park brake pads on old used backing plates. The rear pads are specials, but proper ones are not hard to source locally, at leat in Canberra and Sydnes, but again genuine ones are not at all expensive anyhow, nor are genuine caliper seal kits. Cars converted to have pad indicators have more expensive pads, but earlier pads can be drilled in a minute with a hand-held drill to accommodate the sensors. See the factory bulletin to wire the wear indicators and the relay to the parking brake lamp as has been done on most SY and early SZ cars by now. Lastly, always paint the insides of the pistons with Nickel or Silver Antiseize. That stops any rust due to water collecting behind the pads. RT. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1645 Registered: 4-2003 |
ps: to fit the front brake wear sensors to pads without sensors, the pads, one pad on each front wheel, need a 5mm hole drilled in their backing plates. Some early or non-standard pads also need the pad material to be countersunk with an 8mm hole too. | ||
| Jan Forrest Frequent User Username: got_one Post Number: 51 Registered: 1-2008 |
The calipers are now off, pistons & unions removed and parcelled up ready to be posted to the overhaulers - under GBP(£)250 all in Considering that the best price I've had for the DIY kit is GBP(£)175 I think it's well worth the extra}}  With luck The Old Girl will be on the road in a week or so - thank God! | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 812 Registered: 9-2004 |
Rt you say: "Some people simply reconnect the brake hoses and punch the brake pedal, but that usually only pushes one piston out" With the calipers still fitted to car, one caliper at a time, remove the pads. Place some cardboard between the disc and pistons. With the engine running or off with the braking system charged push the brake pedal and hold down, the pistons will all inturn [the hardest last] comming to rest on the disc, the last part of the piston will be held in the caliper for easy removal later. Carry out each and every caliper making sure that the brake resovior is not running out or the system pressure drops completly. If hoses are not being changed clamp the hoses and slacken fixing to calipers, remove calipers and rotate off the slackened hoses. Last part of the pistons can be removed from the calipers one at a time. Seals and dust boots can be changed with out splitting the calipers. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1650 Registered: 4-2003 |
I assumed that the above was done first on a neglected vehicle. I would be pretty annoyed at spending more than UKL50 for a genuine kit for four front calipers, and UKL10 for a new piston if it were really needed. These are hugely expensive cars, but the brake components are cheap. R. | ||
| Jan Forrest Frequent User Username: got_one Post Number: 52 Registered: 1-2008 |
Final update before actually refitting the front calipers: Having got them off and parcelled up for despatch for overhauling I hobbled up to my nearest Post Office (over half a mile - the next being over 3 miles!) where I was informed that my 15 Kilo parcel was too heavy for the PO scales which only weighed "up to 10 Kilos" despite Royal Mail accepting parcels up to 20 Kilos  That was yesterday. So, once I was back home, I immediately phoned the company currently rebuilding the rear calipers and this morning they personally delivered the complete overhaul kits - seals, dust covers, dust cover springs, bleed screws and new pistons - for GBP(£)143. That has given me most of yesterday to refurbish, clean up and paint (first coat only) all the ouside of them and this morning to fit the new components. I have since contacted a company ( http://www.everythingrollsroyce.com ) who are sending me a set of new hand brake pads, new uprated Land Rover master cylinder and G-Valve overhaul kit to finish an almost complete rebuild of the braking system(s). I've inspected all the flexible pipes and they appear to be relatively new, so I'll keep an eye on them for future replacement. Similarly the 'old' pads appear to have only lost approx. 0.5mm of friction material so should last another couple of years If you include the price of replacing some of the brake pipes by purchasing 25 feet of Cunifer10, brake unions and flaring tools the job comes in at a little over GBP(£)500 which I think is quite reasonable in the circumstances. With luck I should have The Old Girl ready for her MOT (roadworthiness test) by the end of next week! Next job: A full underseal and touch up the flaking paint under the wheel arches and sills ... Ps. Thanks to all for all the encouragement and advice during the rebuild  | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1651 Registered: 4-2003 |
Moderator, Please remove this topic. | ||
| Jan Forrest Frequent User Username: got_one Post Number: 53 Registered: 1-2008 |
Richard: I'd be interested to know why you think this topic should be removed. Has anyone insulted someone else? Too much blue language? Do you believe I have a financial interest in the company I mentioned? Am I espousing a suspect method of brake overhaul? Frankly, Old Bean, I'm confused  | ||
| Gus Brogden Experienced User Username: gus Post Number: 33 Registered: 2-2008 |
Haha, I have it figured out. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1099 Registered: 4-2003 |
Personally, I have found the pistons usually not too bad to get out albeit one gets showered with rust, brake fluid and brake dust if you do not take the precaustion of covering the things with a cloth. In my case this is because the only way I have of getting the pistons out is with compressed air. I have tried various pliers as Richard has suggested without success and I believe there is a special expanding tool that can be inserted to get a grip on the things. As someone pointed out when one piston has blown out this method is dead. What I do (old fart pontificating)is to put a bit of wood between the pistons and blow. If I have chosen the right thickness of wood one or both pistons will have emerged some but neither far enough to blow out. In desperation I have sometimes put a 'G' clamp across a piston to stop blowing while applying pressure to shift the other one. The two worst cars I have done had had had an early spell in the UK and had been given a small taste of Winter. The owner of one was a very dear elderly friend whose presence I value. I was tempted to tear over to his place drop his strides and give him six of the best for driving with such disgusting brakes. I didn't but he now changes the brake fluid every year and sometimes more frequently if can see the merest tinge taking on in the sight glasses! One of those pistons I finally extracted by heating the half calliper to very hot and then dropping some dry ice in the cup. Infuriatingly the piston then practically fell out! Jan, were the hand brake pads relined or new? I ask because the local mob here have had them on back order for yonks? Fortunately I have a couple of sets spare but I have saved the old backing plates for bonding new ones. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 306 Registered: 6-2006 |
I go along with Bill's methods for most callipers. Unfortunately I only come across a few that have only had a taste of Winter – most I see have gorged themselves to bursting point. Mechanical methods of piston removal work fine on Mineral oil cars, but rarely on UK RR363 cars. BEFORE removing callipers - and if your brakes are working! you can usually tell if the pistons are going to move with compressed air before starting the job. Before removing them from the car, Try moving the pads back, then press the pedal to see if each piston returns. If it does, then they'll usually pop out with air. Or as Pat says earlier, leave the pistons out at this stage, and then take the callipers off. This is easier by far. (Old brake pads worn to nothing are another option to allow the pistons most of the way out.) A word of warning for the uninitiated doing it for the first time! Using compressed air, they do literally SHOOT out. Keep your fingers and any other body parts clear or you will loose them! 8) And as bill says, brake fluid will also came out, so not near the cars and keep well covered. Now for the seriously stuck pistons.  Make up an adaptor which will allow you to connect a grease nipple to the calliper. (this can be either a piece of about 12mm bar reduced at one end and cut a male thread to suit the brake pipe entry. drill and tap the other end with a female thread to suit a grease nipple or, if the calliper is apart, a flat plate which you can bolt over the calliper drillings.(seal with an o'ring or similar.)) Now pump away with your grease gun. This will give a nice controlled pressure and the 5000 psi upwards that most grease guns give, should do the trick! | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 307 Registered: 6-2006 |
PS. Bill, pads are available in the UK. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1100 Registered: 4-2003 |
Paul Are they Factory ones or some secret supplier? I have no problem with after market ones but it is a mystery why the Factory is not supplying us. I suspect its the old colonial problem - let them eat cake syndrome!!! I have stopped wearing the chains now for some years because they nocked Hell out of the sill paint when getting in and out of the cars! | ||
| Jan Forrest Frequent User Username: got_one Post Number: 54 Registered: 1-2008 |
As above, I blew out one piston with compressed air after nothing else would budge them then replaced it halfway before 'G' clamping it securely and blowing the other out. In one case I had to temporarily wind my compressor up to 160psi to do the job before returning it to my normal 100psi, which is the operating pressure of all my air tools. Since I was holding the air blower onto the brake pipe rather than directly to the caliper my fingers were well out of the way at all times. As for the hand brake pads I've ordered: They are allegedly brand new. I'll know better when I receive them, but a local reliners quoted GBP(£)12.50 each plus postage and VAT which is no saving at all! After 'cooking' the paint overnight on my kitchen radiator I will be reinstalling the calipers today, following which the master cylinder and G-valve will be removed ready for replacing/overhauling. Then I'm just waiting for the rear caliper and other components to be delivered and another day or so (weather permitting) should see the job done and ready for the MOT Ps. If anyone is wondering why I haven't given the name of the local brake specialists (Brakeline Factors of Sharrow Vale, Sheffield) it's because a) They don't have a website b) They don't do a postal service c) They don't operate outside Yorkshire/North Derbyshire/North Notts d) They don't normally deal directly with the public (the local RR expert let me use his trade account/discount) Finally: This topic may have been a little long winded for such a simple job, but we are all here to help each other and my minor tribulations in this regard may yet serve to assist someone else as they contemplate their options re. brake overhaul! EDIT. Bill: Since the calipers are, essentially, just standard Girling Type 16 with a spacer to accomodate the thicker brake disc I would assume that most pads are taken from the Ford catalogue - Cortina, Capri, Corsair, Holden (Australia). (Message edited by Got_One! on 10 April 2009) (Message edited by Got_One! on 10 April 2009) | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 813 Registered: 9-2004 |
Bill The handbrake pads are available from Intro car. http://www.introcar.com/ price 43.97 for the set + postage[carrige] | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1102 Registered: 4-2003 |
Patrick/ Thanks. It may be the case that the Factory having noted that after market ones are so readily available why would they bother to supply them? I shall enquire purely out of curiosity. Jan/ Verbosity be damned, words are free. We tend to take this forum as an expectable facility but we are all indebted to the 'back room' boys who keep it ticking from a purely IT point of view.The number of members/owners I have access to who can actually talk about these cars and their foibles I can count on my hands. The remainder either decline to discuss their problems, or others you can't shut up, delivering a continuous stream of experiences, none of which are helpful for diagnosis. | ||
| Jan Forrest Frequent User Username: got_one Post Number: 55 Registered: 1-2008 |
Oh ... Heck!!! I've opened the rat trap (easy as none of the screws was particularly tight - they'll all be replaced with new) and removed the distribution valves to 'let the dog see the rabbit' Valves and I still can't see no *verschtunken* master cylinder ... Where's Wally? Here? or here? not here nor here can't see the bugger anywhere! HELP!!!!! | ||
| Jan Forrest Frequent User Username: got_one Post Number: 56 Registered: 1-2008 |
It's too late to edit the above post so ... Well bugger me gently (he said - more in hope than in anger) it seems that The Old Girl is fitted with the braking system off a Shadow 2! Very odd for her chassis number - RSH24518 I'll just have to try and cancel the master cylinder I've ordered and see if they can supply a seal kit for the distribution valves. This isn't the first time something like this has happened as I'm pretty well convinved that the distributor/ignition gubbins are also off the later car. You live and learn | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 814 Registered: 9-2004 |
Jan I think your chassis no is SRH 24518. Change over date August 75 from chassis no 22118,this includes electronic ignition,rear fog warning light, seat belt sign goes out with courtesy light,and the duplicated power brakes. Your pictures are dated 05 and there are three connectors with bent pipe ends! Did you mark the pipe positions that have no colours on them. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1103 Registered: 4-2003 |
Jan, Patrick is quite right here is the entry in the Library in the modification lists 22073 (LWB) deletton of master cylinder/rear fog 24482 (amps. High pressure accumulator swttch High pressure fuel pump-flow Ch Lookiung at the mess I would pull the whole thing out and clean it up. Disconnect the pedal linkage and four bolts hold the whole frame to the floor. There is not much to 'kit' in the valves except I have often wanted to get the little convoluted plungers' covers seen in the spares book and sometimes in shards on some cars but I have never been able to get them? Love the sealing caps quite ingenious. be sure to do the 'G' valve the cushion disintegrates and spreads its bits through the whole system! There is a kit for that. | ||
| Jan Forrest Frequent User Username: got_one Post Number: 57 Registered: 1-2008 |
Patrick: The 'workshop manual' from RROC(Oz) indicates that The Old Girl should have the earlier brake setup. I hadn't heard of the Mods list(s) before ... As for the colour tags on the pipes: They are there but just lost in the flash from the camera. Anyway, I've left them in the same orientation as they were when actually in place - they just don't appear to be due to paralax error! The 'bent ends' are - as Bill points out - my home-made blanking plugs. The date on the pics is due to my camera reverting to default if it hasn't been used for a few days. They were taken today. Bill: Fortunately the 'bellows' on the plunger rods are still in perfect condition and, unless they come with the overhaul kits I've just ordered, will be reinstalled. As for the corrosion on the framework; it's surface only and mostly drops off with a rub of a gloved hand. *Note to self* Get more working gloves! A quick blast of underseal before I replace the rat trap cover should see it OK for another decade or 2 I've already ordered a G-Valve seal although the existing one looks fine; and I've sent an email to "Everything Rolls Royce" to cancel the master cylinder and substitute a pair of distribution valve kits ... if it's not too late and they've already despatched the order. "Life" as George Harrison said "is what happens to you while you're making other plans". And I know exactly what he meant Thanks again for all the help, both real and moral(e), that has been so readily forthcoming from the members of the forum. I'll keep you appraised of events as they happen | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1653 Registered: 4-2003 |
You will see the parking brake pads, pictures and all, on this forum in the last days under the topic Hand Brake Pads started by the same author as this topic and done to death. SY and SZ parking brake pads are the same. They are all now made by Lucas, not the same mob as the unfairly-insulted manufacturer of superior electrics. Also, see the pads at Introcar at a very reasonable price. My last order of parts from Introcar two weeks ago was delivered to Australia in 4 days by ordinary air mail: http://www.introcar.co.uk/acatalog/HANDBRAKE_PADS_1593_1509.html ps: if the brakes work, how the hell can the caliper pistons possibly be seized ? And, by the way, caliper seal and dust boot replacement is a standard scheduled maintenance item anyhow. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 880 Registered: 4-2003 |
Jan, NEVER use the workshop manual as the definitive reference on what should or should not be in a particular series of chassis numbers. The Crewe scribes sitting on high stools with eye shades who were responsible for writing the manuals never quite kept up with the changes on the assembly line. This is even more relevant for coachbuilt cars. | ||
| Gus Brogden Experienced User Username: gus Post Number: 34 Registered: 2-2008 |
I have a broken spring on a hydraulic pump on SRX 2838. I think I can replace it with an identical size off the shelf at a local fastener store. It appears to me that it just has to keep the plnger in contact with the pushrod. I think as long as I stay to the same size and stength parameters, this would work fine. As much as I enjoy supporting the parts dealer, this makes sense to me. What does the RR world think? | ||
| Jan Forrest Frequent User Username: got_one Post Number: 58 Registered: 1-2008 |
I didn't say that the pistons were truly seized - just that I couldn't shift them by purely mechanical means. Pliers, levers, air powered impact hammer ... nothing budged them. However, blasting air into the inlet pipe with my 'blower' popped one out so that I could temporarily replace it, clamp it up, and then blow out the other piston. As an aside I'm reasonably certain that the nearside hand brake pads were wiped out by the hand brake joints being rusted solid. It took me the best part of a day to free them off: Alternately soaking them in light machine oil and beating seven shades of ... sugar ... out of them with a 1lb hammer (literally). As best I recall, the offside joints weren't much better before the caliper was rebuilt. Still, as I'm now waiting for the new components to arrive I can have the day off tomorrow - possibly monday as well since most firms are taking it as a Bank Holiday. Gus: Just noticed your question. I'd be shy of sourcing a spring that way. Think about it for a moment! The spring is compressed and relaxed 2-2 1/2 thousand times per second. How long can a spring of unknown provenance last under those conditions? I don't know and the store owner probably doesn't either. On the other hand ... If there's no chance of the spring parts dropping into the works if/when it fails (I wouldn't know as I've not looked at the design of that component) it's got to be worth a punt | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1654 Registered: 4-2003 |
With a genuine pump spring at less than UKL12, why bother rummaging, guessing and taking risks ? http://www.introcar.co.uk/acatalog/PUMPS,_PUSH_RODS___CAM_FOLLOWERS_1510_1502.html Best replace the pushrod if it is one of the two types used before 1976. The early ones can bend the camshaft and split the valley cover if the pump seizes, the later ones before 1976 were weakened to protect against that, but they fatigue and break after about ten years. The later ones are the same as SZ ones, and are suitably dimensioned for all eventualites. ps they max out at 2,250 strokes per minute, that's 4500RPM engine speed, revolutions per minute, not per second. | ||
| Jan Forrest Frequent User Username: got_one Post Number: 59 Registered: 1-2008 |
"ps they max out at 2,250 strokes per minute, that's 4500RPM engine speed, revolutions per minute, not per second." You are, of course, correct. I'm tired. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! Even so, it's still 1 million strokes in just under 8 hours of motorway driving. GBP(£)12 may be a lot for a simple spring, but at least you'd have peace of mind that a 50p component could never bring. | ||
| Gus Brogden Experienced User Username: gus Post Number: 35 Registered: 2-2008 |
Ok Ok, you are all right. I would have responded earlier but I had to go across town, they had a 12 cent off sale on soup, max 2 per customer. I just got delusioned by my ability to save a couple bucks with my ingenuity. Yup, it will be hard to buy a spring off the shelf that is made with virgin material and a lasting temper. Penny wise, pound foolish. I will order a new spring and pushrod for each pump monday. Good gosh, you people must think I'm so frugal that I syphon gas out of one Shadow when I want to drive the other. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1104 Registered: 4-2003 |
Gus/ I'll buy the soup, spend the money on the springs. Don't forget you have to check the height of the new pushrod at maximum lift before you fit the pump. Note that the forward and rear pump cams are out of phase with each other. | ||
| Jan Forrest Frequent User Username: got_one Post Number: 63 Registered: 1-2008 |
I have another query: The No. 1 brake warning light never comes on! I've checked the bulb and it's OK, but it doesn't even come on when I do a light check - Gear lever in D and turn the key to 'start' - even though all the others are fine. Any ideas? Ta very glad in advance. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 310 Registered: 6-2006 |
Jan, If the contacts inside the bulb holder are Ok, you will need to check for feeds and earth, and then follow the wires back to the 'test' relay board. I guess it doesn't come on even if you earth the wire at the accumulators. | ||
| Jan Forrest Frequent User Username: got_one Post Number: 65 Registered: 1-2008 |
"follow the wires back to the 'test' relay board." Well, I've delved deep into the dash, hung upside down and peered up into it and I still can't find the test relay! Also, in case it's the pressure switch; how fast is fluid likely to leak out while I've got it off for testing/refurbishment? Ps. The Old Girl has just failed her MOT - left outer track rod end totally shot and CO levels at 5.3% (4.5% is the maximum). |
