Detroit Coupling Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

Australian RR Forums » Silver Cloud & Bentley S » Detroit Coupling « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 154
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Sunday, 28 April, 2019 - 19:55:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dear all, I am attempting to complete my driveshaft refurbishment by mid week in order to make the Qld Federal Rally. I disassembled the Detroit coupling to inspect it and wash it out prior to relubrication and re-assembly. As I washed the needles from the first outer race I counted 30 needles. There should be 31. I looked everywhere but could not locate another needle and suspect it has been assembled minus a needle, or maybe not. I can get another needle from Introcar for 72 pence plus tax and postage, but it means I won't get the car to the rally. Can anyone advise were I might find another needle in Australia, or at least provide the correct dimensions so I can try and hunt one down. I measured the needle at 0.0765" diameter and 0.7385" long. I don't know how accurate my Digital Chinese Verniers are. If anyone can suggest a source in Australia, I should be able to get a needle sent express post overnight. Any suggestions?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3248
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Monday, 29 April, 2019 - 09:14:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David,

Try messaging Carl Heydon through the Forum - he is a "hands on" Club member in the Queensland Branch who should be able to help with your problem.

http://au.rrforums.net/cgi-bin/forum/board-profile.pl?action=sendmsg&to=car&db=users

This link should allow you to contact Carl - if not search the User List for username car and click on the private message link.

.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robert J. Sprauer
Grand Master
Username: wraithman

Post Number: 360
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Monday, 29 April, 2019 - 21:35:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David..I was thinking about this and have replaced and re-packed many and yes a few on the floor along the way. I learned to disassemble/assemble on a towel so nothing rolls.

The missing pin was only one of 31 and may have been missing for a long time. Assuming that was the case you never would have known and not suffered. If you consider that the end caps really do not rotate 360 deg and only move a few degrees you should not loose sleep and replace the joint when you get back.

BTW I use adhesive grease when I assemble and start with a small rubber band around the post inserting needles. I then add grease to the cap, slide on half way, remove the rubber band and hold it there awhile because the pressure from the grease will force it off but it will subside and tape them together.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 155
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 30 April, 2019 - 09:22:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thank you David and thank you Robert. Well, after several calls yesterday, I managed to track down some new needles in Sydney, and should have them today. I'm only replacing the one missing needle. If there is any measurable increase in diameter with the new needle, I won't fit it, but am not expecting any difference in diameter. It turns out these needles are the same ones used in the Mk VI lower suspension yoke. Spur Parts had new ones in stock and kindly despatched to me overnight. What a champ!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 156
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Wednesday, 01 May, 2019 - 19:04:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Update 1. The needles that arrived were wrong as the Introcar Catalogue showed the wrong needle part number. I ended up assembling minus 1 needle, and I don't think it will make any difference.

See the images with 30 and 31 needles. Can you pick which is 31 and which is 30 without counting?

needles

needles too

.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 157
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Wednesday, 01 May, 2019 - 19:25:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Update 2. Smoking Gun.

I have finally discovered one very likely possible cause to my drive shaft issues. The button on the end of the trunnion has been machined wrong. This permits the coupling to pivot one way but not the other. This may well have been there since new.

The issue would have appeared when dodgy brothers exhaust shop fitted the current muffler and adjusted the centre bearing support to one side to avoid the poorly installed muffler. The shaft has a witness mark where the muffler has been rubbing also.

Button 2

Button 3

Button 4

.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 158
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Wednesday, 01 May, 2019 - 19:46:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Flying Spares list part UG3019 as NLA. Does anyone have one they might consider parting with?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 159
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Wednesday, 01 May, 2019 - 19:49:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The left image three posts up is 30 for those that can't be bothered counting.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robert J. Sprauer
Grand Master
Username: wraithman

Post Number: 368
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Wednesday, 01 May, 2019 - 21:39:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Now it gets interesting. I have completely torn these down and my Shadows and my current Silver Wraith II. I would not recommend using it but if you have additional shims you may get away with re-profiling the button and adding a few shims, the amount will be determined after taking measurements per the manual.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 160
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Wednesday, 01 May, 2019 - 22:23:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Robert,
Are you saying you have a button that you have pulled out of an early shadow Detroit coupling? If so, do you have a pair of them? Shimming one to the same height would not be an issue Robert. I had already shimmed these existing ones by an extra 0.2mm per side to get a perfect fit. Let me know if that is what you mean. Good on you, Robert.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 161
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Wednesday, 01 May, 2019 - 22:36:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Sorry I see now you meant re-profiling my faulty button. That would never work I'm afraid Robert. The buttons are case hardened and profiled on special equipment. A replacement button is really the only solution I'm afraid.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robert J. Sprauer
Grand Master
Username: wraithman

Post Number: 370
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Wednesday, 01 May, 2019 - 23:02:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi David. No I have re-built them. I would certainly help you if I had spares.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Norman Geeson
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 81.99.138.38
Posted on Thursday, 02 May, 2019 - 21:03:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David

Only an opinion……… but have you considered that the bearing rollers, running one roller short, have (will) tilt under load?

Particularly with the coupling not only rotating but moving endwise, one trunnion end may skew the rollers sufficient to lock up and skid the assembly. Furthermore, is the fact that you are one roller short responsible for your end cap wear?

Could it be that if you replaced all the 31 rollers with new on each side that this would “square” up the assembly and allow you to utilise your worn end cap, with shimming perhaps?

I can visualize a few problems occurring if you leave out a needle roller as the assembly with be one sided and lock up and release each revolution. I have not checked, but if the rollers are identical to the MKVI lower triangle suspension rollers, they are metric and should be easy to source.

From a Rolls-Royce stand point the whole saga of the Detroit joint was experienced Post War when, they found a few cars exhibiting a particular annoying vibration at the start of R type production. This vibration had occurred on previous products but had not been excessive and furthermore it was present in every car with rear wheel drive. Finally two engineers ran a chassis on a rolling road and found after finally replacing the engine and gearbox with an electric motor that the source of trouble lay only in the front drive shaft universal joint.

It was because of this finding that only the front joint immediately behind the gearbox was specified as a Detroit joint. The usual splined sliding type joint was not considered because General Motors had already found that this type of joint would not slide smoothly without jerkiness. Ford on the other hand had tried to replace the usual splines with ball bearings, to no long term avail.

R-R had close ties with GM on technical issues and arm lengths discussions with Ford and Jaguar, the latter even pre-war. All this information is available in the RREC archives.

A number of cars have been converted back to standard Universal joints but whether the driver can, or cannot feel minor vibrations, they are still present. For the vast majority such a conversion will suffice providing the centre bearing and assembly is inspected for integrity on a regular basis. It is important that the user understands the fore and aft movement at this point will now be mainly absorbed by the flexible centre bearing assembly, as it did on previous models.

Whilst previous models had vibration present but it was not detected by the normal driver, later models were in the main heavier and more powerful, and importantly had a potential to accelerate the front joint at a faster rate.

(Message approved by david_gore)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3256
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Friday, 03 May, 2019 - 07:21:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Norman,

As always, your expertise and willingness to share this with our members is greatly appreciated.

Wise advice in this instance.

Thank you.

.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robert J. Sprauer
Grand Master
Username: wraithman

Post Number: 374
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Friday, 03 May, 2019 - 07:30:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Note: The U-joints simply flex a few degrees and do not actually rotate. It should be replaced none the less.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 164
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Friday, 03 May, 2019 - 10:41:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi All,

Thank you so much for all these fantastic comments. I love getting feedback to these issues. As usual Norman's very detailed comments are very well appreciated.

OK, here goes. I think the chance of the ball locking up on the shaft is zero due to being one roller short because of the needle length to width ratio, and the large number of needles involved. I further suspect this has been like this, a long time, perhaps for the life of the coupling, without issue. I did forget to mention I have needles on order, which will be here next week, so all of this is a moot point really. My intention was to be able to drive the 100 miles to the Qld Federal Rally this weekend and back and fix on return, but the next issue has ended that possibility.

The centering button issue is not one of wear. It has been machined wrong - very wrong, and does not permit the coupling to move as it should. The full needle side was the same side as the improperly machined button by the way.

How these couplings work is that with the trunnion pin in the horizontal plane, up down movement of the shaft is accommodated by the trunnion shaft rolling ever so slightly on the needles. Left / right movement is accommodated by the centring buttons sliding on the inside of the coupling housing, yet remaining tight, because the machined long radius on the top of the button on the circumference of the plane of movement is the same radius as the movement, which is half the internal width of the housing. At the same time the steel balls slide along the shaft very slightly, parallel with the needles to remain centred at the intersection of the trunnion shaft axis with the axis of the large circular ball retaining channels machined into the housing.

In my case the button is machined with possibly the correct long radius offset significantly to one side of its intended axis, and the short radius ever so slightly to one side of its intended axis as per the evidence of the witness marks on the top of the button. That means when rotated about a vertical axis, rotated horizontally left to right, the assembly can be rotated to one side only. Since packing the buttons out to eliminate side to side movement when straight, the issue is heightened even further as you would expect. Of course flipping the faulty button reverses the side the coupling can move towards. Flipping the good button makes no difference as would be expected also.

If I could show you a video of this, all would be explained very easily. The only solution to fix this issue is to replace the button with one that is correctly machined. You are probably wondering why this wasn't picked up at Rolls-Royce. So am I. But if you read the plethora of evident faults listed in my car's history book, that the factory QA people detected prior to despatch, you won't be surprised that quality was obviously not what it once was at the point of manufacturing.

I think also this was masked by having the shaft run with probably very little mis-alignment at the coupling. However, once dodgy brothers crap exhaust fitters moved the alignment of the centre bearing to one side to fix the scraping issue between shaft and their poorly aligned replacement muffler, before I acquired the car, the issue was unmasked. To further add insult, the only part listed as NLA in the Bentley or Flying Spares parts catalogue is the damn button, which may not be a coincidence. In any case I am in some kind of bind, and I'm trying all sorts of things to find another button preferably new, but see how soon my standards sink when I can't find one. It looks like the family and I will be heading to the 2019 Federal Rally in our Toyota Camry Hybrid. At least the fuel bill will be negligible.

If anyone knows the whereabouts of an abandoned coupling that might contain a good button, please let me know. The buttons appear to be the same throughout the whole Cloud/Bentley S production and into early Shadow.

Note the first image shows the incorrectly ground button. The second shows the correctly ground button. The third shows the incorrectly ground button on the left.

54

65

62

.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 165
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Saturday, 04 May, 2019 - 09:45:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Further to my last post, it appears the buttons were used right through to Shadow II. So it is surprising these were never reproduced. There seems to be a bit of an industry set up around replacing Trunnion Couplings with a UJ and slip joint. I personally think the issues with the couplings is likely quality and setup related. There is no reason these should not operate perfectly if the parts are correct, and they are centred / shimmed correctly and balanced correctly, and I will be modifying mine as a last resort. Anyone know the whereabouts of these buttons, Cloud and Shadow?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Christopher Carnley
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 86.147.219.151
Posted on Saturday, 04 May, 2019 - 18:37:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Have you looked at one of the generic Mopar service kits still available from the USA?

The R-R components were latterly made from 3% chrome steel then nitrided. The parts were then cooked in EP140 for 6 hours as a "primer" then packed with grease. None available anywhere.

The Hardy Spicer U/J is OK on its own,flat, and only starts to vibrate when worn.

9 years ago I fitted a modified shaft with a modern front CV joint to my Cloud, made by P&A Wood, it is still OK, so I am assured.

(Message approved by david_gore)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 166
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Saturday, 04 May, 2019 - 19:56:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Chris, Yes I contacted a classic Mopar Parts Distributor with a couple of critical dimensions being the ball diameter, housing internal width, button height and pin diameter. From that I can confirm the longitudinal and cross button ground radii. I did this a couple of days ago, and rang them yesterday, but they have been too busy to compare my measurements with stock apparently. I am very hopeful of finding a match. If not I will seek a good used one or preferably matching pair. I am sure whoever is manufacturing the Chrysler units could also make the Rolls-Royce ones. Some of the ones I saw online also clearly had a nitride finish, though some others were plated. The high chrome content certainly explains the hardness and the shine on the working surface. Thanks for the suggestion btw.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Trevor Pickering
Prolific User
Username: commander1

Post Number: 109
Registered: 6-2012
Posted on Monday, 06 May, 2019 - 16:41:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David
I have a complete Detroit Coupling recently removed from my SC111 if you are interested.
You can have it for £50 plus shipping

regards

Trevor
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 168
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Monday, 06 May, 2019 - 21:30:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Trevor, very nice of you to offer. I will PM you to discuss further. Regards David.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 170
Registered: 2-2009
Posted on Friday, 17 May, 2019 - 09:55:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Update on the Detroit coupling. A replacement button was located locally, with another needle to replace the missing one. The coupling now moves perfectly. The next step was to check the clearance between prop shaft centreline and the muffler I claimed was not fitted correctly. See attached images of my findings.

I'm hoping I may be able to cut 35mm off the exhaust, and move the muffler across, but I need to do a little more investigative work first. I sure won't be putting the propshaft back on crooked like a dog's hind leg.







.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 177
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Thursday, 06 June, 2019 - 00:24:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I took the car for its first run, since repairing the detroit coupling, on a drive about 2 or 3 km away to test the shaft and fill the tank with fresh premium petrol, as the old fuel is well - very old. The car ran not too bad but still shudders or something similar off the line although I now feel no vibration at all when off the power, or in high torque situations at low speed, such as mving slowly up a gentle grade in a high gear. It may be that the rubber bushes on the centre bearing support have compressed over the years and allow it to move around too freely under load. I should replace them and see what happens then.

When I got to the service station, I couldn’t get the petrol flap release to work, realising later I was actually pressing the button for the gauges not the flap (it’s been so long I had forgotten). I just used the ring pull in the boot. On the way back, the car ran like a dog, idling roughly (which I assumed was due to having the ignition too retarded for the change in fuel octane due to being fresh.

I gave it a boot full coming up the hill home (hoped it might clear some carbon), and then had to brake fairly hard at the bottom of the next slope just before home for a roundabout. As I pulled into the driveway just after, I heard a very loud tapping from possibly one tappet, although this sounded louder than normal, and I looked down to see the oil pressure gauge at zero. I immediately shut the engine off. I wondered if the oil had moved away from the pickup during braking? I started it about 5 minutes later just to get it the extra 5 metres uphill into the garage. As it idled, the oil gauge slowly came up, but the tapping continued though maybe not as loud. When I turned it off the gauge stayed up for a very long time before eventually sinking back down.

I shut it off, and have not even touched it since. That was 10 days ago. I decided to give it a break for a week or two, and have now come down with bronchitis. My next step will be to read up on the oil pressure sender and gauge, and find out if I can easily substitute a mechanical gauge for testing, or if there could be an issue elsewhere.

It is feeling expensive and troublesome right now. God only knows what is going on. The engine was fully overhauled about 25 years ago, and has covered less then 5000 miles since. I hope the bearings are still OK. If they are, then I will get to the bottom of the reading, being erratic and correct or erratic and incorrect.

What on earth could make the oil pressure gauge sluggish to build and sluggish to fall and not read at all. It was working before my drive, although it has always been sluggish to register, although there is plenty of oil in the car, at least there was last time I checked, and there aren’t any puddles on the floor. I also now have an issue that the switchbox is sluggish. When I turn the key off it takes another 2 seconds to shut the engine off. I’m assuming thick dry oil on the switchbox contacts is to blame for that.A disassembled and some WD40 in the right places should unglue it.

People tell me to think of how satisfying it will be to get it all right. I’m not feeling too satisfied at present though. I think I will get a go-pro and secure a mount somewhere on the car once running to observe what is happening underneath too. Until then, I need to start looking at what is causing this new issue and hope I have not done any real damage to any of the bearings, tappets, camshaft etc. etc. I know life was meant to be easy, but this is ridiculous!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Hughes
Frequent User
Username: wedcar

Post Number: 92
Registered: 07-2004
Posted on Thursday, 06 June, 2019 - 09:38:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David
My experience is more with the 6 cylinder car, however, in regard to the oil pressure, with the engine running a quick check of the sender / gauge is by removing the lead from the top of the sender and earth it on the side of the engine block, this should send the gauge to full scale (max pressure). Removing the sender and temporarily fitting a mechanical gauge is another good option.

Also if you are concerned about other damage, remove the spark plugs and turn the engine with the starter motor, the oil pressure should register on the (mechanical) gauge almost immediately.

On the issue of "running on", the engine should stop when the key turned off, recheck points gap and the "static timing" before much else.
Trust that helps.
Regards
David
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 178
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Thursday, 06 June, 2019 - 11:45:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi David,

That is definitely food for thought. I replaced the points some time back with a Pertronix electronic ignition, so there is no longer a gap and nor can I use the static method of timing. I did set the flywheel at 2 degrees BTDC and paint a rough white mark on the pulley and cover that I can use as a guide, but when i set it with a timing light the timing was way out, so either I picked up the wrong plug lead at the distributor, or the rotor was out of alignment enough to pick up the wrong lead. I should set everything up from the get go to be sure. Nothing elase on the car seems to have been done correctly so i no longer assume anything is right. A mechanical gauge may be required. Is it easy to fit one and what sized hole and thread do I need, or is it more complicated than that? I will have a look at the manual next.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Hughes
Frequent User
Username: wedcar

Post Number: 93
Registered: 07-2004
Posted on Thursday, 06 June, 2019 - 17:46:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David
Others more knowledgeable than I will have done this job on a V8, hopefully someone will contribute the correct information.
When you remove the "sender" measure the thread, it is probably 1/4 BSP parallel, these threads require a copper or aluminium washer to seal against the housing, it is very important you fit the alternate gauge with the correct thread size and profile to prevent any damage to the housing.
Regards
David
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richard Gray
New User
Username: mooney1el

Post Number: 6
Registered: 08-2016
Posted on Thursday, 06 June, 2019 - 21:46:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

With respect to the vibration you are experiencing, I too have/had a similar situation. I replaced the rubber parts of the center prop-shaft support and "packed" the bearing. The vibration significantly reduced. This week, I will install a new bearing in hopes that it will completely eliminate the slight vibration. The bearing for my '59 Cloud is a common bearing available for little $$. I found after procuring one from a RR parts dealer for $40 USD and comparing numbers that a quality one is available from Amazon (of all places) for about $7 USD delivered.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Timothy Gregory
New User
Username: tim

Post Number: 3
Registered: 02-2011
Posted on Friday, 07 June, 2019 - 09:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

well it is great to read that you gave the V8 an outing and it will re-invigorate the car.
Yet as we all know, if an engine is 'running-on', after it has been switched off; that can soon become a serious predicament and even damage things.

it means pre-ignition, which might be the timing or as you say the fuel octane. This will cause all sorts of problems to arise, like boiling or worse, a blown head gasket.

correct me if i'm wrong, but when you bungle the ignition timing, that can even result in a bent push-rod and possibly lead to the valves striking against the tops of pistons; which can punch holes in pistons; an undignified demise of the engine.

in any case 'pinging' pre-ignition, is a nightmare that arises when ULP fuel is used in PULP engines; obviously due to fuel octane level prerequisites.

another idea has been the use of Tin as a catalyst
that is made as a solid which dissolves gradually.
you put the block of tin-compound in the fuel tank. I haven't tried that idea myself.

I've used upper-cylinder lubricant, a liquid that you can add into the fuel tank when you fill up.
it stops pinging on ULP in European engines.

good luck with your V8 engine rejuvenation efforts and when you drive the car more that will likely revive the whole car and soften stiff rubbers and things.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 179
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Friday, 07 June, 2019 - 10:46:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Tim, I am not getting pre-ignition. I am just not getting instant shut-off. The timing position has no bearing on this issue. I thought it first to be pre-ignition, but you know how that feels, with the engine initially stopping and then running backward for a moment or two rather roughly. This is just ignition off and no change. The car just continues to idle for a couple of seconds after ignition off. It does this hot or cold. It is likely due to sticky switch box contacts. as oil gets old, the light fractions evaporate, and the remaining heaviest and least volatile fractions are a bit "sticky". It just slows down the whole process. I'm buying a mechanical oil pressure gauge today that comes wit ha hose. First step is to see if I have oil pressure and how quickly it builds. It mihjt be the sender, or the gauge, tat are the issue, or maybe I do have an oil pressure issue. I've certainly had a noisy tappet for a while on and off.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mark Aldridge
Grand Master
Username: mark_aldridge

Post Number: 616
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Friday, 07 June, 2019 - 18:29:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David, have you tried 1/4 pt of ATF in the engine oil to ease sticking tappets.
Mark
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Balfour
Prolific User
Username: sidchrome

Post Number: 180
Registered: 02-2009
Posted on Monday, 10 June, 2019 - 22:57:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Mark, I haven't tried the ATF treatment yet. The symptoms indicate possible multiple issues. I just need to isolate and understand the problem via the symptoms before I do anything else, in case doing so makes the situation worse.

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Please quote Chassis Numbers for all vehicles mentioned.
Password:
E-mail:
Action: