| Author | Message | ||
     Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3158 Registered: 06-2009 |
Not RR related, but I seem to recall in the mists of memory that someone may have discussed this here at one time or another. The headlight lenses on my Toyota Solara are clouded, again, and almost entirely on the "upward facing" surfaces. Shortly after I got the car I used a headlight renewal system that worked very, very well for buffing off the existing cloudiness, but whatever it is that was "the protectant" just doesn't, or at least doesn't well. The more vertical surfaces remain quite clear, if not as perfectly clear as they were after first being buffed out. My suspicion is that this is the direct result of UV exposure, and I have to imagine that there is some sort of UV resistant coating in liquid form that could be applied to plastic lenses and actually "stick" over the long term. If anyone has experience with a product or products that fill this bill, and prevent re-clouding in fairly short order, I'd love to hear about it. Brian | ||
| Hubert Kelly Frequent User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 431 Registered: 03-2012 |
How about sun cream? | ||
| Jeff Martin Frequent User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 241 Registered: 07-2018 |
After buffing and getting them clear, or what ever it takes, I always wanted to try automotive clear coat. I don't think one would even have to go to more then a 2500 grit, taking it to a 400 would be better so the clear coat would have something to bite into. One could cut the clear coat with 2500 and what ever polish it would take to get it transparent again. Question is, how well would the clear coat stick to the polycarbonate, I would try it first with one from a junk yard. If alcohol or lacquer thinner makes the polycarbonate sticky, then it would probably work. Pretty sure a modern clear coat has a UV protection in it. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3945 Registered: 04-2003 |
Brian, I have used a lambs wool polishing pad on a compressed air buffing tool with automotive polishing fine compound to remove UV light hazing from non-glass headlight lenses. The secret is to use slow buffing speeds and light pressure to gently lift the "hazing" off the lens surface without overheating the surface with excessive friction. To the best of my knowledge, there is no protectant that will prevent or minimise the hazing between buffing treatments which can be as often as every two or three years depending on your local conditions and age of the vehicle. Headlight hazing is a specified defect in NSW for vehicles requiring mechanical inspection for annual registration and most private inspectors will buff non-compliant lenses so the vehicle can be passed as compliant for registration. If you want to practice first, go to a car wrecker/dismantler and buy a damaged light assembly for this purpose before working on your vehicle lights. If you are lucky, they might give you one for free as they have no commercial value. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3159 Registered: 06-2009 |
Thanks to all. I have already done "buffing the haze out" on my car. I was just hoping that something could be applied afterward that might significantly reduce the need to do this again, as well as minimize the yellowing that sometimes occurs (my car's lenses only yellow ever so slightly - my next door neighbor's got *really* yellow). Brian | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2261 Registered: 05-2012 |
Hi Brian Chrisfix on youtube uses rustoleum clearcoat. He reckons this is a permanent solution however I'm wondering how well clearcoat adheres to plastic - maybe it peels after a while. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM . | ||
| Jeff Martin Frequent User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 242 Registered: 07-2018 |
The Rustoleum will stick if the polycarbonate gets sticky if it comes in contact with methyl hydrate, lacquer thinner, acetone, or basically anything with an alcohol base. If you used a Varothane or one of those plastic spray on finishes meant for floors, that would not stick very well at all. | ||
| Trevor Hodgekinson Frequent User Username: wm20 Post Number: 244 Registered: 11-2006 |
Problem with all UV coatings is how do they protect from UV Most deteriorate themselves . Remember they are not reflecting the UV they are adsorbing it So eventually they will break down Then you have to remove the coating I used to get my specs UV filter treated and noticed that the glass ones seemed to last forever but the plastic ones seem to go cloudy after a couple of years . This was due to the UV coating cracking then lifting from the surface | ||
| Trevor Hodgekinson Frequent User Username: wm20 Post Number: 245 Registered: 11-2006 |
And just wait till they resume flying commercial jets in the ozone layer so the hole which is just barely closed will open up again | ||
| BrianCrump Unregistered guest Posted From: 121.223.188.141 |
I have had the headlamps on 2 cars done by a professional spray painter; buffing and then a clear coat sprayed on. So far I have had about 5 years and no yellowing or hazing has occured. Regards, Brian Hi Brian and welcome to our forum - I hope you will register as a member and I look forward to your future participation and contributions. I haven't been lost to the NSW RROCA Branch completely following my relocation to country NSW; just "gifted" along with our Administrator, who requires his identity to remain private, to the world-wide R-R/B community! (Message approved by david_gore) |
