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Glen Poolen
New User
Username: wgipps

Post Number: 2
Registered: 3-2018
Posted on Friday, 18 May, 2018 - 16:59:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

WANTED - I believe SS1 had a coolant gauge. I would like to install one in a SS2. Looking to purchase one. thanks.
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Omar M. Shams
Grand Master
Username: omar

Post Number: 1515
Registered: 4-2009
Posted on Saturday, 19 May, 2018 - 04:57:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dear Glen,
I cant understand what you mean.
All Silver Shadow IIs had factory fitted temperature gauges.
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 2568
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Saturday, 19 May, 2018 - 07:52:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

As am I. The SY2 series cars should all have the Four-in-One Instrument Gauge:

Four-in-One Instrument Gauge

Brian
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 2890
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Saturday, 19 May, 2018 - 08:56:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Glenn,

Please post your chassis number from the build plate on the front bulkhead in the engine bay so we can determine the exact version of your Shadow.
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Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov
Grand Master
Username: soviet

Post Number: 906
Registered: 2-2013
Posted on Saturday, 19 May, 2018 - 09:08:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Perhaps Glen's car has been butchered or the needle has fallen off. There is a RR wrecker advertising on Australian eBay but their prices are quite crazy. Myself I would order the gauge from Flying Spares in England. If the gauge is not in their catalogue then email them and get price along with a photo of the gauge before you buy. FS is very organised and its owner/director Ben Handford is on the ball especially if you threaten to eat his Foxy pup if they get the order wrong.

You could also telephone them as they actually have a human not a time wasting robot answering the phone.

I would ask them if they can test the gauge before its sent. To get a malfuncting gauge professionally repaired try Lionel Otto Instruments in Brisbane 07 32773888. Last time a few years ago they told me they no longer actually repair analogue gauges themselves but they are in contact with somebody who does.

These instruments are old but nothing lasts forever so I would definitely get any secondhand instrument professionally checked/restored before relying on it because if you cook your engine the retail repair costs are totally insane and I have heard of figures up to $40,000 being asked over a decade ago and that's about the resale value of a spiffing good plum SS11 in Australia.
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Mark Aldridge
Grand Master
Username: mark_aldridge

Post Number: 538
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Saturday, 19 May, 2018 - 19:10:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Only early SS1 have a temp gauge, this then reappeared as a cluster unit 5 years later on the SS2.
Mark
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Glen Poolen
New User
Username: wgipps

Post Number: 3
Registered: 3-2018
Posted on Sunday, 20 May, 2018 - 14:15:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi all - thanks for the responses. My apoplogies - i have an SS1 NOT an SS2. It doesnt have a temp guage. 1974 Serial SRH17903. I think flying spares have the Smiths version for about $300+ AUD. My plan is to remove the 'radio balance' dial with the Temp gauge.
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Glen Poolen
New User
Username: wgipps

Post Number: 4
Registered: 3-2018
Posted on Sunday, 20 May, 2018 - 14:25:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

http://www.flyingspares.com/shop/rolls-royce-bentley-shadow-t1-t2-corniche-mpw/electrical/shadow-t-1-2-instrument-clock-gauge/shadow-t-1-2-ammeter-gauge-shunt/coolant-temperature-gauge-ud11670r.html
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1947
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Sunday, 20 May, 2018 - 14:45:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Glen

I did the same on my 74 SY1 (SRX18501) using a much lower cost gauge that had the period look. If you want to start a new thread in the Silver Shadow section I can advise you on the issues involved. The lower pic shows where I mounted the sender unit.

It is a modification well worth doing. The gauge gives peace of mind when driving the car. I cannot imagine why RR didn't include one as standard.

g1

g2
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Glen Poolen
New User
Username: wgipps

Post Number: 5
Registered: 3-2018
Posted on Sunday, 20 May, 2018 - 17:10:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

thats great Geoff Wootton - this thread is going - http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/29627.html?1526786665 - on the subject. Shall i make a new one or are you happy to tack onto that?
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Jeff McCarthy
Grand Master
Username: jefmac2003

Post Number: 502
Registered: 5-2007
Posted on Sunday, 20 May, 2018 - 19:21:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Glen, I posted on the Shadow thread today (20/5/18).

Modern repros of the gauges. Didn't think to look in the Trading list to find the conversation I'd been followimg in my email.
Cheers,
Jeff
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Glen Poolen
New User
Username: wgipps

Post Number: 9
Registered: 3-2018
Posted on Tuesday, 22 May, 2018 - 12:10:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Geoff Wootton - ive spoken to an expert RR mechanic who pointed this out - the radio balance cutout hole in the dash is towards 10mm small than the cutout hole for the AMP and FUEL gauge. Do you recall any problems behind the walnut relating to the smaller cutout - or is it just a matter that you wont see the entire gauge face?
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Jeff McCarthy
Grand Master
Username: jefmac2003

Post Number: 504
Registered: 5-2007
Posted on Tuesday, 22 May, 2018 - 12:58:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Glen, I just checked with some old gauge internals against the panel. See photos

While it's theoretically possible the measurements would have to be exact. I put a gauge case against the hole and you would have less than 2mm behind the walnut before you impinged on the Panel lights switch. It's also fairly tight in there under the dash.

It was a long time ago but I've seen someone who put one there but used a smaller gauge than the standard Smiths 52mm - such gauges are available, mainly in the USA I think.

To me the front view looks a bit squeezed and out of proportion, certainly the full-face gauge in Geoff's photo above looks better.



This is just the gauge facing on the rear- the case would add a few extra mm as well.



Myself, I'd go for the smaller gauge, or even less hassle just use a modern Smiths repro and ditch the ammeter.

Some people move the ammeter to the glove box or just leave the 2 wires behind the parking brake cowling and plug the thing in if they ever need it for diagnostics - although any auto electrician would a)have something better and more accurate anyway and b) would test the circuit from the alternator -> voltage regulator -> Ammeter shunt -> gauge; which you'd have to do in any case if the ammeter ever actually told you anything. Usually the needle just sits there doing nothing.
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1948
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 22 May, 2018 - 14:30:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Glen

Apologies for the delay.

I thought you were already familiar with what was behind the center walnut dash panel. Your RR friend is absolutely right, the radio balance cutout hole is far too small to take a gauge. A considerable amount of butchery has to take place to mount a gauge in this position.

The photo below shows the dashboard with the walnut dash panel removed. The windscreen wiper switch is to the left and the radio balance switch to the right.

g1

A hole has to be bored to take the gauge. I made a small plate to centralize the wood boring tool and fitted it behind the radio balance aperture after I had removed the switch.

g2

This is what the dashboard looks like after the hole has been bored.

g3

The next photo is taken from above with the top roll removed. The red arrow points to the temperature gauge. It is very crowded in there. Note how the gauge almost pushes up against the pcb containing the relays.

g4

When the gauge is fully pushed in it sits level with the other gauges, so it is then only necessary to refit the walnut dash panel.

So, that's how I did it. If I were able to repeat the exercise I would definitely research the smaller gauges that Jeff suggested. Apart from that I would do it again, as I personally find it really useful to be able to monitor the engine temperature.

Geoff.
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Jeff McCarthy
Grand Master
Username: jefmac2003

Post Number: 505
Registered: 5-2007
Posted on Tuesday, 22 May, 2018 - 15:08:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Incidentally Glen, I don't know how much of the forum etc you've managed to plough through but the ammeter was just an afterthought to fill the hole when Crewe deleted the Coolant gauge. Customers were complaining that it always read too hot!

This was because the engines were hotter than was then usual - before compulsory fuel efficiency - and therefore ahead of its time.

I've mentioned elsewhere the inexplicable absence of a 10v voltage regulator in the circuit as per Smiths own recommendation.

Good luck with whatever you decide.
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Jim Walters
Prolific User
Username: jim_walters

Post Number: 156
Registered: 1-2014
Posted on Tuesday, 22 May, 2018 - 15:10:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

This is what I do, using a Jaeger or Smiths dual water temp/ oil pressure gauge. I particularly like the fact that both the temp and oil are mechanical and not electrical. Install the transmitter bulb in the blanking plate under the choke stove.


SRH8505 SRC18015 SRE22493 NAC-05370
www.bristolmotors.com
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Glen Poolen
New User
Username: wgipps

Post Number: 10
Registered: 3-2018
Posted on Tuesday, 22 May, 2018 - 15:39:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Geoff Wootton - nope - brand newbie. To my eyes that looks like major surgery. Where is the temp gauge in the early SS1's? Where are they fitted in the SS2's? Ive done some googling but finding a gauge smaller than 2" is going to be quite a task.
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Jeff McCarthy
Grand Master
Username: jefmac2003

Post Number: 506
Registered: 5-2007
Posted on Tuesday, 22 May, 2018 - 17:41:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Glen - the Coolant gauge fits directly into the cutout for the Ammeter; no surgery required.

Run a wire from the Fuel Gauge (Green Plastic = ignition +ve) to the Coolant Gauge and an Earth wire from the Fuel gauge earth connection as well.

The only other thing you need is a sender wire from a sensor in the engine bay to the gauge.

There are usually a few spare holes in the connector in the driver's footwell (which is what I did).

Initially however, my mechanic actually just removed one of the screws holding the connector plate to the firewall and threaded it through the hole.

This has the advantage of not having an extra connection, being fast and also not having to deal with undoing plugs and removing the blower motor from the engine compartment!

I just changed it when I had everything out anyway - it really isn't something you would do just for one wire.

I'll post a photo tomorrow of my Coolant Gauge.
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Philip Sproston
Experienced User
Username: phil2025

Post Number: 29
Registered: 7-2006
Posted on Tuesday, 22 May, 2018 - 18:08:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Glen Fit a VDO temp gauge red needle can be painted white.wrap elect tap around unit and fit into dash for tight fit.Note sender is not 1\8 gas tap fitting.Fit wire as Jeff post

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