Post Number: 63
|Posted on Sunday, 23 January, 2011 - 15:16: |
I am in need of a tail-light bulb housing for a Bentley Mk VI to replace the one I have where the glass has broken. I can't find the part number but on the intact one I have the glass bears the marking "Lucas 461-1A".
Here are some photos of the part I need. I'll accept one without glass as I have some plastic lenses that will do the job. Anything will do, so long as the pair matches!
Posted From: 126.96.36.199
|Posted on Tuesday, 25 January, 2011 - 20:17: |
Introcar sell replacements for these-with either flat or domed lenses. These are I suspect pattern parts.
Alternatively you could try The Electrical Parts Company www.theelectricalpartscompanyltd.com
(Message approved by david_gore)
Post Number: 2293
|Posted on Wednesday, 26 January, 2011 - 14:36: |
Holden in the UK sell this sort of thing too:
Nothing to do with GMH of course.
Post Number: 165
|Posted on Monday, 28 March, 2011 - 18:38: |
If you still need one, I have a spare pair, not for sale, but you could borrow it to get Black Bess back on the road, and return it when you find one.
0408 808 206
Post Number: 66
|Posted on Tuesday, 29 March, 2011 - 23:33: |
Thanks Marty, but what makes you think Bess is off the road? (You impugn her honour, sir!) She's fighting fit and ready to go any time I call on her to do so. The last time she was unusable for more than a few days was 2002-2003.
The request arose from my having recently gone through the interesting job of replacing nearly all of her lightbulbs with LEDs (not a a trivial task for a positive-earth chassis, so I'll be writing it up soon to help others).
After being rear-ended in 2002 the people who [ahem] 'repaired' her stuck a bodgy piece of red lens plastic from (so I was told) an HQ Holden into the right rear housing. This plastic was not what you'd call heat-resistant and in a very short space of time melted from the heat of the brake bulb and became nearly opaque. That was the initial motivation to go the LED route but once the LEDs were in, the melted plastic had to go regardless. I picked up some plastic domes from a trader at the All-British Day last year but even so, glass is original so glass it should be if possible.
Of course, now the major (fun) part's done it's dropped in priority: getting Christopher (SG 1492) ready to go to Canberra has been occupying much of my available time for last month or so.
Post Number: 837
|Posted on Wednesday, 30 March, 2011 - 05:28: |
Hi Chris,if you have a jowett car club near you it may be worth getting in touch with them as the Javelin rear lights are the same.
Post Number: 166
|Posted on Sunday, 08 May, 2011 - 18:01: |
Pistols at dawn? :-) Sounds interesting, haven't played with LED bulbs yet, what is the life expectantcy? They are brighter, do they draw less current?
Post Number: 67
|Posted on Sunday, 08 May, 2011 - 19:24: |
I've just now (well, two hours ago) submitted an article to Praeclarum on the subject. If it's accepted, Part 1 may appear in the next issue, whereupon your questions will be answered.
Post Number: 24
|Posted on Tuesday, 07 June, 2011 - 18:43: |
you can look at this
Post Number: 68
|Posted on Tuesday, 07 June, 2011 - 19:41: |
Thanks for the tip, but I'd like the whole housing, not just the glass.
Also, the seller doesn't ship to Australia.
Post Number: 2351
|Posted on Tuesday, 14 June, 2011 - 18:41: |
That is a very interesting article, Chris, and Iíll take up your lead. You have come up with a really excellent solution. The greatest issue on my R-Type was with the twin-filament bulbs. The front sidelamps and the tail lamps are all dual-filament on the Australian-spec R-Type as it has the original stop/tail/indicators at the rear and side/indicator at the front. For those I piggybacked a pair of suitable LED clusters into an old bulbís carcass apparently as you have done. For the single-filaments I simply used dual-wire sockets, and standard 24-LED drop-in inserts for brightness and diffusion on the reversing lamps. The flasher unit was tricky too as an electronic one is needed for LEDs. I made one myself as I couldnít find one suited to +ve chassis at the time.
I would like to know how reliable your bulbs are. Mine are not good, and seem to last maximum 12 months. The same applies on my Turbo R, so itís not an issue of alternator vs. generator. I hope that itís simply what comes from buying cheapies at $3 each in Hong Kong Ė I bought 100 of various sizes and ratings some years back, so I hope that newer versions are better. Also, the interior lamps were too harsh with LEDs, and my Festoon LEDs leave something to be desired. After reading your article, Iíll try some new ones of the types that you suggest. If you fit HID headlamps as I have done on the Turbo R, then the sidelamps look silly with the old yellowish incandescent globes. LEDs smarten them up with their bright white appearance.
Incidentally, someone is bound to suggest a conversion to Ėve chassis electrics. OK, it is a very easy change to make. Quite apart from preferring the quaintness of +ve chassis, I would point out that +ve chassis is not a silly English quirk. It protects the sheetmetal of the bodywork from corrosion. The fragile sheetmental is protected by the +ve chassis. The sheer bulk of the chassis can easily afford to be the consumable anode. Itís the same way that bridges and pipelines are protected against corrosion.