Wood Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

Australian RR Forums » Miscellaneous » Wood « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From:
Posted on Saturday, 16 August, 2014 - 06:37:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Tree wood. RR use tree wood for the dash extra. The dash is ply on early cars and veneer on aluminum on later.
The door cappings are veneer on ash. The mirrors are the same. In General thin and flat is ply and chunky bits are ash. The glove box lid is ash and the little bit along side. Most makes are like this.

Also behind trim is bits of wood which the leather door seals are tacked to. These go rotten and are made of ash. But any close grained wood will do except oak. Cut them to shape soak in oil and fit.

Why ash.
Ash has a good memory for shape, is reasonable rot proof, easy to machine, gives a good finish and holds screws well. Oak leeches stuff that rots leather.

Veneer is made by turning a log against a blade like a pencil sharpener.

Walnut burr is the bees knees imo. Because it has a very swirly random pattern it makes it easier to repair.

Straighter patterns show out indiscretions more.

Colour when a close look is taken one will see reds browns black and dark greys.

Stripping lacquer the only way is lacquer stripper such as nitromors. Any other way will damage the veneer and even scrap the whole bit to fire wood.
Replacing a complete veneer is difficult and expensive. Best solution is flying bits.

Place wood on stainless kitchen sink liberal coating 10 mins and using 000 or finer wire wool rub in straight lines WITH the grain and NEVER across the grain. A scratch with the grain will get lost in the process a scratch across the grain will show out bad.
NEVER use any tool to remove lacquer only wire wool.
Nitromoors is not nice stuff and will burn skin. Water immediately washes it away. Once the lacquer is gone wash the bit with lots of soapy water and dry with paper towels. Do not.soak wood bits in water. Use water and dry off.

Lacquering wood web sites.

Because the grain is now raised use a wood filler which is then sanded off. This stuff is special to this process. Web sites have details.

Divets are caused by knocking the wood about or by tools being used to remove lacquer.
To repair these use filler and draw the grain on it. Burr is easier. This is where skill and art merge. Artisan is a good word for this merge.
Bondo can be dyed.
To practise this get a bit of wood hit with a hammer and then repair and lacquer it to see if the dent disappears.
To fill divets, blob of filler one stroke only don't play with it. Using a very very sharp chisel, lay chisel flat on wood and using light hand pressure push and wiggle the chisels across the duvet, if the chisel feels sticky use water to help it slide. The chisel must slide smooth and MUST be flat against the wood. If not another divet will occur. A diveted dash looks nasty.

Bits of veneer that are missing. Big bits then unless you have the bit, are not really diy.
Little bits can be made by using a plane shaving.

Using a scalpel cut the shaving to fit. To make the shaving flat hold it in steam then straighten. Glue PVA. Ccolour in with felt tip pens.

The lacquer.
Use cellulose aerosols. Follow web site.
Agian the lacquer and fillers are part of a paint system.

Divets are scary stuff. I have heard that using steam can get them raised but I don't how.

Another way is to fill the divets with lacquer.

RR dash boards have bevels around holes that are painted.
Humbrol make cellulose dope colours for models.
Important remember that the paint around the holes must be cellulose if enamel is used it will pickle. Always have a paint system.

Polishing is the same as for paint work.

Polishing is replacing scratches with finer scratches. Hard paint polishes finer than soft paint.
So although the lacquer is hard enough, that is NOT viscid in an hour. 24 hours would be better.

If using 2 part lacquers some get so hard that polishing becomes difficult.
In all cases makers instructions are law, not me or any web site.

(Message approved by david_gore)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jan Forrest
Grand Master
Username: got_one

Post Number: 618
Registered: 1-2008
Posted on Saturday, 16 August, 2014 - 21:25:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I stripped, stained and relacquered all the door cappings a couple of years ago. I found that the usual method for the lacquer coating - sand, lacquer, repeat up to a dozen times - just didn't work. No matter how careful I was, the lacquer on the 'corners' would completely strip off before the flatter parts were sufficiently cut back. In the end I gave them 3 coats, each of which was allowed to dry before the subsequent coat was brushed on, and then cut back by 2 which was repeated several times before I was satisfied. IMO the new finish is almost indistinguishable from the original.

Add Your Message Here
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Please quote Chassis Numbers for all vehicles mentioned.