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Bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 94.197.122.77
Posted on Sunday, 10 August, 2014 - 08:36:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Car glass is quite strong but has its limits as is often found by bodyworkers inadvertently damaging it.
Welding and grinding sparks will damage the glass beyond repair. Gaffer tape good two layers.
To remove glass often the rubbers are hard and cracked if the glass is removed trying to keep the rubbers intact then most likely the glass will break. Also the chrome bit around the screen is easy to bend. So using a very sharp knife cut the rubbers
Even if the rubber is removed intact the glass is liable to break on refitting.

These rubbers are not cheap and are often forgotten when estimating cost. Also should you decide to use a pro like I do then check he takes the blame if it breaks. Also a pro will get the rubber for you then he cannot blame your rubber. My man charges £60 plus rubber. He does insurance work and is very good and fast.
I only take glass out I never refit.
Because on a car like RR damage the glass and chrome bit and it's £1000

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Jan Forrest
Grand Master
Username: got_one

Post Number: 604
Registered: 1-2008
Posted on Sunday, 10 August, 2014 - 20:45:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The modern tendency is to bond the major screens into place with a permanent slightly flexible mastic. This has 2 advantages:

1) There is no 'rubber' to harden

2) The glass can now used as a stressed member permitting the use of thinner 'A' and 'C' posts.

The downside is that a cracked front or rear screen cannot be left for long without the stresses shattering it sooner or later. Usually sooner.

On the old system I've removed and replaced more front and rear screens than I can count. Removal was child's play as all you needed to do was carefully remove the chromed trim strip, winkle out the locking 'rubber band' in the front of the seal, followed by laying in each front seat in turn and gently booting it out (hobnail boots not required). virtually all the time there would be a soft, non-setting mastic holding the rubber in place so it was common practice to run the tip of a flat screwdriver all round the seal inside & out before deploying 'feet 1.0'. A cushion of a thick, soft material laid on the bonnet meant that the task could be performed by just one person.

Replacing/refitting the screen was a little more complicated and usually required 2 people to get right. One would do all the fine work of fiddling the main seal into place while the other just leaned on the bits already fitted to stop them popping out again as the first person worked his/her way around the edges. Contrary to popular opinion glass is flexible - just - which means that it will distort enough to make DIY refitting a lot easier than it would be if the glass was completely rigid

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