| Author | Message | ||
     Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 910 Registered: 4-2003 |
For a reference list of paint codes, please see the following. I shall update it and maintain it as appropriate, with user input which is always welcome: http://homepage.swissonline.ch/Richard_Treacy/PaintCodes.htm | ||
| Gus Brogden Frequent User Username: gus Post Number: 73 Registered: 2-2008 |
My Shadow II has a couple of scritches on an otherwise nice paint job. A scratch on the left front fender and another on the left front door. It is base/clear paint on it. I can do the bodywork myself, but am a bit reluctant to do the painting, as I have never used base/clear,and its been 30 years since I even tried to match paint. The color is 'mooreland green'. My questions are, a)can I glaze and level the body so that a good painter can blend in the door and fender, b) does the entire door and fender need to be prepped,or just the damaged area, c)does the aluminum door skin need to be stripped to bare metal? The fender scratch is at the top of it along the body line, the door scratch is at the center of the door. the paint and body condition otherwise is excellent, the paint is about 5 years old, has a fair amount of metallic, has seen very little sun, and is in excellent condition otherwise. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 583 Registered: 6-2006 |
Gus - I'd say That's the a million dollar question! The door should not have to go to metal. The whole door will need to be DE-glazed and the edges as well. I imagine the painter will try and lose the colour between the damage and the door edge if there is enough room and the paint match is good enough. I can't picture the fender/wing damage. Any pictures? If the damage is near an edge - then the edge may have to be lost on the next panel. I don't think??? it would have been base and clear from the factory? There are firms that do local repairs (dent master / paint master type firms) SOME operators are excellent at colour matching and small scratches. | ||
| Gus Brogden Frequent User Username: gus Post Number: 74 Registered: 2-2008 |
Sorry Paul, no pix, and its dark out there right now. Im away for a couple days come tomorrow, so maybe when I get back. It wasnt factory base clear, its a 3 y/o paint job. What grit do you think is correct to finish? I was thinking to 400. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 2125 Registered: 4-2003 |
Note that the Paint Codes are best checked on the TL link: http://rrtechnical.info/miscellaneous/PaintCodes.pdf link is best | ||
| Gus Brogden Frequent User Username: gus Post Number: 75 Registered: 2-2008 |
Thanks Richard. And the paint is 5 y/o not 3 like I posted. | ||
| Lukas Postl Unregistered guest Posted From: 77.4.54.52 |
I own a 1958 Bentley S1 which is green now and should be tudor grey over black pearl. My bentley is becoming a bare metal respray. I am very glad that I found your paint codes link. Unfortunately valentines is unknown here in Europe, so I have problems identifying the pearl black (valentines 174-10034). It would be amazing if somebody could help me concerning this issue. I already contacted info@valentinespainting.com.au, but I got no answer. (Probably someone can provide a paint code of an other supplier, or is there a possibility to buy valentines paint online?) (Message approved by david_gore) |
