| Author |
Message |
    
Dwayne Kennemore
New User
Username: dkennemo
Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, 31 December, 2003 - 10:04: |    |
I have a Silver Shadow (SRE 22609) that has been sitting for quite a while, and my expectation is that the hydraulics -- all of them -- will require new rubbers, seals, etc. However I thought it might be worth having a hydraulics shop custom fit the pieces rather than use a series of kits because the kits can get quite expensive. 1. Do you think it is reasonable for me to expect that such a shop will be able to do this for me (assuming quality, competent personnel, of course), or am I best off just buying the kits? 2. If the latter is the case, where are these things available economically? |
whunter
Prolific User
Username: whunter
Post Number: 63
Registered: 10-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, 31 December, 2003 - 13:29: | |
Hello Steve Phillips and Dwayne Kennemore
More data needed:
#1. Has your mechanic worked on RR and B previously?
#2. Have you consulted local club members for a competent shop/mechanic?
#3. Do you have the workshop manual?
#4. If the first three answers are no; then I suggest you pause and read all the posts in RROC(A) Web Forum » Technical Forum » Silver Shadow I, II & Bentley T-Type.
#5. Watch out for the cash cow syndrome; it need not happen to you, David Gore and Bill Coburn are great people to ask for answers.
Question: MECHANIC SEEMS TO THINK IT IS A FORTUNE TO FIX IF IT IS BRAKE FLUID.
Answer: Get a new mechanic; ask David Gore and Bill Coburn.
Question: A FORTUNE TO FIX IF IT IS BRAKE FLUID. IS HE CORRECT OR AM I GOING UP THE GARDEN PATH.
Answer: In the USA $3,000.00 to $9,000.00 USD is not unusual for a system setting idle six months + or in average neglected condition.
Regarding:
Silver Shadow (SRE 22609) that has been sitting for quite a while.
Question: My expectation is that the hydraulics -- all of them -- will require new rubbers, seals, etc.
Answer: Try a thorough flush first; if you can salvage even part of the system the savings will be large.
Question: I thought it might be worth having a hydraulics shop custom fit the pieces rather than use a series of kits because the kits can get quite expensive.
Answer: Use the kits and learn to do it yourself, ask David Gore and Bill Coburn.
Remember:
The only BAD question is the one you did not ask.
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William H. Trovinger II
Prolific User
Username: bill_trovinger
Post Number: 57
Registered: 8-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, 31 December, 2003 - 16:33: | |
Dwayne;
Hunter is correct on all he says. I also believe that you are much better off doing the work your self. Not only major savings but also satisfaction that you did it yourself and the job is done right. Example closest dealer to me (Illinois) wanted over U$ 4,000 to redo rams and valves I think my total cost for part was well under U$ 500.
Rebuild kits for parts like valves and rams I would only buy from Crewe Parts dealer. Hoses and lines are a different story. You will find that that one high-pressure line from your accumulator is very high. However, most of the other hoses are not bad in price from Albers. If I remember your other post you are in Texas? Do not know the dealers there but Albers can also be helpful and for the most part are straight shooters.
Good Luck,
Bill
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steve phillips (68.56.14.80)
| | Posted on Monday, 30 December, 2002 - 09:59: | |
I HAVE NOW NOTICED THAT THERE IS FLUID COMING FROM THE LEFT REAR WHEEL, NOT SURE IF ITS BRAKE FLUID OR WHAT, MECHANIC SEEMS TO THINK ITS A FORTUNE TO FIX IF IT IS BRAKE FLUID. IS HE CORRECT OR AM I GOING UP THE GARDEN PATH.
THANKS |
David Gore (63.60.5.50)
| | Posted on Monday, 30 December, 2002 - 18:50: | |
Steve,
To allow more specific advice, can you please advise your chassis number - brake fluid leaks can come from something as simple as a loose compression fitting right through to leaking piston seals in the calipers and also not forgetting fluid leaks from the self-levelling ram.
Some simple checks first, thoroughly hose off the rear trailing arms/rear hubs/springs and shock absorber to get rid of as much dirt/oil as possible, allow to dry and then take the car for a 100/150Km run [if it is safe to do so and you are not losing the contents of your brake fluid reservoir]. Jack the car up and support it with a heavy duty car stand, remove the rear wheel and check thoroughly for the source of the leak. Look carefully for evidence of fluid running down the shock absorber. If you can advise the source of the leak, I should be able to give you more specific information.
PS: Have you been using normal disk brake fluid or RR363 in your system? |
Bob (213.1.76.82)
| | Posted on Tuesday, 31 December, 2002 - 05:37: | |
Do as Dave says.
It can be leaking from 4 places.
The metal pipes can rot out under the pipe clips.
The ram above the spring can leak
The height control valve-- but these are forward of the wheels a bit
The caliper it self.
The most expensive bit is the height valve. But as I said it is forward of the wheels.
All the the work is DIY able, but getting the ram out can be a swine.
Check as Dave said the shock absorber for signs of leaking fuild running down it because I reckon that the ram is the best bet. Do check though.
This fault need not cost a fortune |
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