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Randy Roberson
Experienced User
Username: wascator

Post Number: 28
Registered: 5-2009
Posted on Wednesday, 22 June, 2011 - 01:01:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi, there seems to be differing opinions, so I ask: will a properly utilzed 2 post lift harm a Silver Shadow which is in good condition (not damaged by corrosion)? Such a lift seems to be lifting from just behind the front wheels at the sill, and just ahead of the rear wheels on the sill.
Also, what is the correct way to support the rear of the Car for brake work? The manual cautions against the suspension being supported by the rebound straps, which seems to indicate support underneath the trailing arms.
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Chris Browne
Experienced User
Username: chrisb

Post Number: 46
Registered: 2-2010
Posted on Wednesday, 22 June, 2011 - 19:42:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Randy,
Yes, you can use a two post lift to lift your Shadow providing that it has the correct carrying capacity and you are sure that your sills are in good condition. Inboard of the flange on the outer curved sill is a plate which sits at an angle and runs the full length of the sill. This is the weight bearing part of the structure NOT the outer sill. As this plate is at an angle to the horizontal, you will need to cut some hard wood blocks with a chamfer on the top to match the angle so that the bottom surface of the block presents a flat surface for the lift arms to bear upon. The blocks need to be a good fit so that they are only lifting on the flat part of the angled plate. As for lifting the car for rear brake work, you are right in that the rebound straps are not designed to support the dead weight of the hanging suspension arms. You can either jack the car up under the centre of the differential casing (not on the sheet metal cross member just behind the diff.) then lower the car onto axle stands placed under each trailing arm or you could jack each side of the car up one at a time and put the axle stands under the trailing arm as close as you can to the head of the jack. In either case, if you are working on the floor, chock the front wheels to prevent any possibility of the car moving whilst you are under it. I read recently of a DIY enthusiast who drove the front wheels of his Shadow up onto ramps, put the car in park and set the handbrake and then proceeded to jack up the rear of car and was surprised when the car rolled off the ramps. He clearly had not realised that the parking pawl in the gearbox and the handbrake only work on the rear wheels!
Kind regards,
Chris
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 746
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Thursday, 23 June, 2011 - 05:16:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

With a two poster the rear suspension will be hanging on the straps in any case. Don't go near the rat trap or boomerangs on front subframe mounts. If you can get risers that go round the pips on the subframes it may be safer.

Hanging on the straps, As long as the rubber is in good condition and (more importantly) the floor beneath the rear seat (where they bolt on) is in good condition, should be fine.

If the rubber splits - you may get a clonk when you get airborne over hump back bridges.

If it tears out of the floor, better to know now rather than later. Lift the seat base out and check from the inside.