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phil randall
Yet to post message
Username: phil_randall

Post Number: 1
Registered: 8-2006
Posted on Monday, 18 December, 2006 - 20:36:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

hello all, this is my first post on your site. i have a 1990 turbo r which has a slightly binding front r/h brake, i have cleaned both calipers and pads and eased the pistons in and out a few times. that reduced the problem but did not cure it. one piston has a small split in its dust cover,i am curious to know if internally collapsing flexible brake pipes can be detected externally?
many thanks phil
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Bill Coburn
Moderator
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 847
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 26 December, 2006 - 12:43:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

My question Phil is what do you mean slight binding. Normally the brake pads slightly drag on the rotors by design. Is the car pulling to one side?
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phil randall
New User
Username: phil_randall

Post Number: 2
Registered: 8-2006
Posted on Tuesday, 26 December, 2006 - 22:57:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

hello bill, the brakes did snatch a little to the left and also a steering wheel shake at around 70/80 mph and a sensation of cadence braking when slowing for a junction.so i used a dial gauge to check disc runout, they were ok so i got the missus to jab the the pedal a few times and found the right hand disc difficult to rotate after the pedal had been used. i have now removed and rebuilt all the front calipers and replaced the r/h flexible hose (it would appear the old one was ok). i also adjusted the front wheel bearings while i was at it. what a difference! all brake problems gone, no more light knocking from the bearings,and it steers around fast corners predictably!. i rested the dial gauge plunger almost on the outer edge of the disc to adjust the wheel bearings is that the right place?
many thanks phil
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Bill Coburn
Moderator
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 848
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Friday, 29 December, 2006 - 16:34:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Phil/ All very unusual. I jumped on the failing brake hose syndrome. In any case if they are original they should be changed - 8 years should be the limit. Odd pads or glazed rotors can give you uneven braking but it is fairly rare. The wheel bearing adjustment should be .002" end float. That is the whole hub assembly should be able to move axially that amount. I mount the dial holder on the caliper and the plunger on the stub axle. It is a small dimension and you need to heave on the rotor to get a reading but it is essential. Don't forget to twist your split pins before you close them up otherwise you will have no earthing contacts!
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Dick & Roz Roadnight, UK
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Username: dickroadnight

Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2006
Posted on Wednesday, 03 January, 2007 - 03:32:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Brake (or clutch) judder can be caused by lubricant getting onto the disc/shoe/flywheel, when it dribbles down when the vehicle is parked.

Could a leaking seal have caused the "cadence" effect - or is the system designed so tht no lubricant can get onto the friction surface?