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John Aravanis
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 213.5.29.107
Posted on Thursday, 24 June, 2004 - 06:15:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Here we go again....,
after rebuilding the brake pumps, height control valves, restrictors and rear rams a noise has developed, happens at 20 miles or 80 miles per hour. Sounds like going over the toll booth warning lines, can happen 2-3 times in 15 seconds and then maybe once after 15 minutes. Seems to be coming from the front left although I thought I heard it from the rear left on the highway once. I have bleeded the system by the book 4 times. Today I replaced the engine mounts because the front one was destroyed and I thought that the fan was contacting the shroud. Not the case. The frequency of the noise makes me think that it's either coming from the alternator or the acummulators/valves.
Anybody had any experience with such a problem?
Regards,
John
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 260
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Friday, 25 June, 2004 - 04:05:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi John,

One possible explanation could be an out-of-balance front tyre/hub assembly, misaligned front wheel or loose wheel nuts.

This will probably prove to be a difficult "gremlin" to track down bcause of the circumstances involved with it occurring.

Good luck in finding the cause.
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Bill Coburn
Grand Master
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 185
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Friday, 25 June, 2004 - 08:56:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Well as we are in the guessing game my punt might be looking at the sub-frame mounts which do come loose although usually one gets a grind or squark as they move around the body mount. But they would be worth checking anyway. The two rear ones would be the most likely.
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Harry Kuurio
Experienced User
Username: harry_kuurio

Post Number: 6
Registered: 4-2004
Posted on Friday, 25 June, 2004 - 09:38:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi John,

If only poss, get the car on a "rolling road" - the type of places that do hp/Kw/Nm/ -diagnostigs for ANY car. There, one can "drive" the car anyting from 10-160 mph, AND STAND ASIDE IT, concluding where the noise is REALLY coming from.

Get wooden, long sticks (don't laugh!!!), stetothocopes etc. ready for the session.

The wood is used to locate e.g. bearing probs - other end at one's ear, other at the suspected point. It works!

At the the same session, one can have the car set performance-wise to its best/desired level.

Cost: should not be too much; you'll make savings if the fault doesn't present itself continiously.

Been there, done that!

Dirty Harry
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John Aravanis
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 213.5.26.198
Posted on Friday, 25 June, 2004 - 17:54:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I thought of the subframe,(is that where the brillo pads are located?), but how do you you tighten it, or do you have to add spacers to get things back in order. I painted the radiator fan blade perimeter black (was fouled up from previous mishaps...)and I wait to see when the noise happens if the paint will be removed-fan hitting the shroud. I don't recall if the radiator is mounted on the body and is not part of the engine/subframe assembly. If this is the case, then the subframe might be moving causing the fan to hit the shroud.
One observation is that this almost always happens when the car is lowered from the garage lift ( which supports the car from the body, not the wheels) and I drive away.
Another observation, is that while moving the alternator out of position to change the rocker cover gaskets, front brake pump etc, I discovered that part of a alternator fan blade broke of. A thought occured that it might be ingested inside the alternator causing the noise.
Will get back with news in a few days. Will be out of town, without the car unfortunately- I don't trust to drive it with an occuring warning(?) sign of unknown origin.
John
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 263
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Saturday, 26 June, 2004 - 11:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Good advice Harry. The mounts can be retorqued without needing spacers but you need 3/4 or 1 inch drive extension arm drivers to get enough leverage to tighten the mounts - a length of water pipe on your 1/2 inch drive driver is a dangerous combination and usually ends up with considerable shedding of blood from skinned knuckles/cut hands.
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John Aravanis
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 213.5.23.15
Posted on Friday, 02 July, 2004 - 08:44:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Well the fan does hit the inner radiator shroud. Radiator and shroud are positioned properly and tight, so do I just re-torque the subframe mounts to about 20 kilograms? I also replaced the panhard rod bushings while the car was lifted and supported from under its "running boards" with the suspension hanging free. Do you adjust the panhard rod with the car standing on its wheels? If yes, a poorly adjusted panhard rod could move the radiator assembly against the fan, right?