| Author | Message | ||
     Andy Yet to post message Username: andytork Post Number: 1 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hi All, My Turbo R (25870) has developed an issue, when under load or attempting to be a little more than gentle with the "go" pedal. (slight or heavy load) it misfires or splutters quite badly (for want of a better description). Feels like a fuel /spark issue? This doesn't happen when cold, of course I am very gentle with the business pedal on a cold motor, but under the slight load scenarios on a warming motor problem doesn't appear to manifest I have recently had a full service including transmission service to rule out any normal service issues Any ideas would be greatly appreciated Thanks Andy | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 333 Registered: 7-2009 |
Hi Andy, Basing this on a KE2 Jetronic system which I assume yours is. When initially started the cold start injector dumps fuel, the EHA has 150ma going to it as well. No shortage of fuel assume the pump can deliver. After 1.5 secs the cold start injector shuts off. The EHA drops to about 75ma after about 10 secs. From that point on the EHA progressively gets less and less current weakening the mixture till the engine is at running temperature. That stage there is 6ma to the EHA. The EHA allows fuel to bypasses the metering system under electronic control. Sorry just a precursor to my observation. Fuel pressure is critical. As is fuel delivery. I found my fault mounting a wideband O2 sensor on my car. Seems like overkill but worth it weight in gold with the results. Found firstly a fault with my fuel pump delivery wise and also found an issue with my fuel pressure regulator. Fixed the fuel pump issue but still to do the pressure reg. At 400 pounds on the long finger. http://users.adam.com.au/stefm/htmfiles/wings.html Scroll to the bottom and you'll see the AFR reading I collected for the fuel pump delivery issue. Wasn't actually the pre-pump filter as noted but a previous owner had used a copper gasket washer on the fuel pump that was too small and the path for the fuel was between the tread of the pump outlet and the Banjo connection. Amazing it allowed any fuel at all. Single best thing I did to finding issue with the running of my car. Interpreting the results is a lot easier than other means. The systems work very well until something is out of wack. My regulator is 4PSI high. It's enough that no matter what I do setting things up the results are always a compromise. What works fine at idle is too rich when running, aka the opposite is also true. Cheers Stefan PS thinking about your serial number your probably a motronic. The principles hold. The bits on the engine are very similar just the control electronics is more integrated and a bit smarter than mine. | ||
| Andy Torkington New User Username: andytork Post Number: 3 Registered: 1-2012 |
Thanks for the reply, its made me think a little (although I did have this initial potential conclusion as one of my 500+ reasons to why this has happend) :- I have a suspicion it could be something to do with a fuel filter that was recently changed. I have had that much done to the car in last three weeks for Vic RWC and also as I didn't know the history, in the first three weeks of owning I only had it for three days.In which time the issue didn't appear to exist, the first jobs that were done included fuel filter or filter(s)? as there appears to be a little weeping Once I got the car back I could notice the issue, I wasn't 100% sure as I had put hardly any K's on the car before due to it :- a) not having what appeared to be a functional thermonstat b) driving on a unregistered permit However at times in these three days I didn't experience any of the issues. Is it coicidence or related ? Now its back from all its servcing, its runs smoother on idle (wasn't bad before). Is it possible I have the wrong filter or something related ? This is the first crewe car I have ever owned, I was previously a Browns lane owner for many years Any pointers on how to check this is correct ? (took me 3 days to find the fusebox!!, thats how little I know of this alien breed of fantastic engineering) Andy | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 334 Registered: 7-2009 |
Hi Andy, Pretty easy to check fuel flow. There is a return pipe on the fuel pressure regulator back to the fuel tank. Disconnect and clip a rubber hose on it with the other end into a bucket. This return line will be low pressure so no real issue. There is an "Inhibit Relay" per manual you need to jumper, won't be sure it's the same in your car. The manual will describe where to source the 12V from. my car the window washer pump supply line. Basically take the relay out and hook 12V to the fuel pumps. Idea being get the fuel pump to run without the "engine running sensor" (per manual) cutting the fuel pump out. My car your supposed to get >2L in 30 secs. I was about 350ml...... Yep. However even with this small amount of flow the car was perfectly happy to run except and a big except when under any boost. The AFR reading show that story. Good you fixed the thermostat. Engine coolant temp sensor has a lot to do with the fuel mix via the EHA. Best getting the manual, can be found online. Measure the coolant sensor, cold then hot. 20 degrees should be about 2500 ohms. Hot should be about 300 ohms. Assume they are the same between models. You'll know if the engine management system is responding to the car warming up by measuring the current to the EHA. 15 Seconds or so from start should be about 70 odd MA. When it's hot about 6MA. Specifics might change a bit between models, manual is the best bet. Should find something relevant to your car here. http://rrtechnical.info/sz/05_sz.htm O2 sensor would tell you if you have a fuel air issue. Some of the later models have a sense connection before the CAT so you might be able to get a mechanics with a CO or O2 sensor to give you a picture. After a CAT readings are pretty vague and even vaguer (is that a word) if there is any air leaks in the exhaust system. Cheers Stefan | ||
| Omar M. Shams Prolific User Username: omar Post Number: 226 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear Stefan, Are the fuel pump flow details you mention above the same for a 1991 Turbo RL? Thanks Omar | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 335 Registered: 7-2009 |
Hi Omar, Yeah I'd say they would be very similar. Few details change but the basics are bosch CIS and they don't change much. Other than the introduction of the Motronic in 89 with a few differences the principles are the same. Think the fuel pressure is slightly lower in the newer cars but don't quote me on that. But fuel pumps and filters are very similar. Therefore imagine the fuel flow would be approx the same. Specific pressures will be different though. Memory serves me the 89 Manual details very similar flow rates and a means to carry it out. Stefan | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 337 Registered: 7-2009 |
Omar, Just had a look, my manual details "at least 1L in 30 secs", the post 89 and it details "at least 10L in five minutes". Same thing. Defeating the Engine run sensor is a bit different but same idea. BTW my now fixed fuel pump does 2.4L in 30 Secs just for a comparison. New Pump, New Filter.  Pressures are different. KE2 Jetronic 82>>85PSI with Injectors being 55>>58PSI, Motronic 89>>92 with Injectors being 58>>59PSI. Pressures are critical as they act in a pneumatic hydraulic balance against a spring in the fuel distributor. Normally dead reliable but doesn't take much imbalance to throw the lot out of wack. Stefan | ||
| Omar M. Shams Prolific User Username: omar Post Number: 227 Registered: 4-2009 |
Thanks Stefan. Can I just disconnect the supply wire to the fuel pump and give it a direct 12 v rather than look for the overides? I presume that when you say your "now fixed fuel pump" you actually mean replacement fuel pump. Wow these pumps are not cheap eh?? | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 340 Registered: 7-2009 |
Hi Omar, In my cars case I ended up just hooking wires directly from the battery to the fuel pump for the 30 seconds. No disconnection necessary. If the ignition isn't on there is no electrical connection to the rest of the car from the pumps. Reason being there was a good 5V drop in my windscreen washer circuit when loaded with the fuel pump. Direct connection to the battery was more indicative of the voltage when normally running. Your model may be different so check although from what I've seen the setup electrically is the same for a few years. I had replaced the pump a long time ago with a new one. My mistake at the time was was re-using the copper washers around the banjo connection without thinking that they may have been wrong. Once had the AFR reading was obvious the car was starving for fuel under load. Just a matter of figuring out which bit was causing the problem. Not cheap from RR/B. Richard and I where talking a while ago before I found the washer issue about alternate pumps. Really it's about the spec of the pump more than anything else. Flow of 2L in 30 secs @ 80>>90 PSI. Think pumps are spec'ed at so many liters per hour. There are alternates around but need to check the spec. Finding the spec is the hard part. Cheers Stefan | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 341 Registered: 7-2009 |
Omar, Interestingly despite the 5V drop with my windsreen washer circuit Flow rates only dropped from my 2.4L in 30 secs to 2.1L in 30 secs. The delivery isn't linear with voltage but maintains flow over quite a voltage range. Wish there where alternates for the pressure regulator. Fuel pump seems cheap in comparison. Cheers Stefan | ||
| Andy Torkington New User Username: andytork Post Number: 4 Registered: 1-2012 |
Ok, Fuel supply looks OK from test. I have driven it for another week or so with some injector cleaner (as recommended by an expert). The issue is really bad, it appears once the car has been at "normal operating temp" for a little while (20+ minutes), not HOT by any means. The car loses ALL power, its difficult to pull away at junctions / roundabouts etc, struggles up the driveway at anything over 1000 - 1200rpm. Any ideas, Is there something breaking down when it gets warm, should I be looking at coils, leads etc, could pump be playing up when warm ? Plugs are brand new, correct type this has been confirmed / checked double checked Car has no issues at all when cold / warming up, or when just reached normal temp, idles smooth-as at all temperatures, even after a bad episode of spluttering / missing the idle is perfect. Any ideas / suggestions greatly appreciated. Can I pull fault codes somehow, pretty sure I have a motronic system, but car is not late enough to have the L.E.D driver panel and I don't have the older? "check engine" panel or the test button in the glove box . Andy | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 342 Registered: 7-2009 |
Hi Andy, Once stage after I rebuilt my fuel distributor when it was too lean it would do as you describe. Cold and warm up was okay because the EHA dumps plenty of fuel. But hot very little fuel bypasses the metering head with 6MA (via the EHA). Mainly relying on the mechanical metering of the fuel distributor. Still of the opinion looking at the AFR readings while running would tell a story. If your timing or ignition was way out of wack it would struggle no matter what the temperature. Only issue I had with timing was cleaning the plugs on the ignition amplifiers and changing the duel distributor belt for good measure. Way I'd tackle it but stand to be corrected. Look at AFR's, talk to the guys on the forum with that evidence. Assuming strange things happening with AFRs means you either have an air leak or fuel problem. Measure the fuel pressures in the upper and lower chambers. If they are all right and you have flow the major remaining possibility is the fuel distributor itself. Can't comment on error codes. Half your luck :-) Cheers Stefan | ||
| Andy Torkington New User Username: andytork Post Number: 5 Registered: 1-2012 |
As we are looking at possible AFR issue, may just get it stuck on the rollers and get some measurements. I will have a good nosey round the engine bay for leaks etc and will re-read the operation of the fuel injection system in the manual and follow some of the diagnosis to see if anything is obvious Will post an update when I get some results Thanks for the help / suggestions. Andy | ||
| Michael Hicks Experienced User Username: bentleyman22 Post Number: 23 Registered: 12-2011 |
I have been reading this with interest and I have had similar experience I would spray some easy start Brake cleaner around the engine bay to see if you have any leeks Then I would get the CO checked to see how she is running and have a look at the metering head As you have a workshop Manuel follow all the settings and take it from there Do you have a Bosh Agent down there ? | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 343 Registered: 7-2009 |
Andy, See if you can get a mob that is familiar with Bosch CIS systems for the rolling road test to get the AFRs. If they've done Merc 500's in the mid 80's they will have an idea. Otherwise you will spend a lot of money at $170 ish an hour for them to fumble around. Sort of why 500 ish didn't seem too bad a price tag for the wide-band O2 logger. Very much doubted the issue would be fixed inside 2.5 hrs. Guess I'll get a rolling road test done once I replace the pressure reg but at least I'll know everything else is up to spec, just a few tweaks. In case others aren't familiar with them. The idea is weld a bung into the exhaust to mount a Bosch "wideband" O2 sensor. Wire in a line to one of the Manifold pressure sensors, then a line into the Ignition coil. Then you have a logging system in the car that records RPM's against manifold pressure against AFR level in close to real time. My system logs the data to an SD card and comes with software to display the data on a PC. Bit of playing around with the data to cross relate Volts to manifold pressure otherwise pretty straight forward. Biggest pain is taking a section of the exhaust out to weld the bung in. Needs to be before the CAT but far enough from the direct heat of the exhaust outlet. Food for thought anyway. Good luck with it all. Stefan Cheers Stefan | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 344 Registered: 7-2009 |
Andy, Your car will have the O2 sensor. These will be the narrow band type. The issue with the narrow band ones is they basically tell you the car is too rich or too lean. Not by how much. Management systems adjust mixture alternately to make the sensor see rich then lean then rich etc etc. Assuming it working otherwise defaults to Rich. Narrow Band makes it tough to interpret. There are some logging systems that allow you to replace the narrow band with a wide-band to log the data and also output a narrow band representation of the the wide-band signal. So the older management systems can still run the car per normal but also log more representational data. Yeah spent a bit of time trying to figure out what would work. Stefan | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 345 Registered: 7-2009 |
Andy, Made me laugh. Went to one mob with the B and their response is we'll log your data then fix any issues then remap the computer to optimize. Good luck with that on an KE2..... The fuel side of things are purely analogue, the ignition does have a processor I suppose but the two are hardly connected and certainly not injector optimizations to be had. They are very competent with fully electronic management systems but would wonder about them tackling even Motroinc. Still basically a mechanical CIS system just a few more smarts and a bit more integration. Necessity the mother of invention..... Or is that desperation.... Cheers Stefan | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 346 Registered: 7-2009 |
Omar, Got a good contact in Bosch and his response to a question I had about my fuel pump 0580-254-938 was original spec is 5 bar @168L/H. Thats a 1988 Bentley Turbo R 22888 FWIW. Also if anyone has a pump with this number 0580 254 918 (originally I wanted to know if the where cross compatible) it is 4bar @170L/Hr and not cross compatible. Not sure which model if fits on but might help someone. Least that paints a picture of pressure and flow rates from the proverbial horses mouth. Stefan | ||
| Andy Torkington New User Username: andytork Post Number: 6 Registered: 1-2012 |
just actually looking at wideband o2 monitoring / logging systems for future peace-of-mind. I may look at installing one so I know whats going on with the AFR. The basic Lm2 kit (without the OBD cables) is only about $250 shipped, I need to look at all the options before ordering, but may be worth a look down the track But for now, Chapmans is only 5 k's from me so may let Bob take a look at it. I will of course still have a nosey over the weekend for anything obvious Andy | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 347 Registered: 7-2009 |
Andy, I bought the LM2. I got the one with the OBD2 but after playing not worth the expense at all. Toyota Camry's have ODB2 interfaces. Just about the most prolific car manufacture on the planet but the LM2 doesn't work with it. Word of warning, the RPM is hit and miss and the O2 comes up tolerable intermittent error codes. Nothing really wrong just haven't quite got their hardware development right. But with a bit of patience it worked for my needs and when it worked was very accurate. Melbourne bloke. I'm from Adelaide but in Brissy at the moment. Always meant to do the Great Ocean Rd from Melbourne to Adelaide. Daughters done it in her Supra but fuel pressure regulator and Camber bushes stop me ATM. One day before I'm dead and buried. If your at Chapmans, think he has a B that he has installed his uprated suspension in. Maybe get him to take you for a test ride and let us know. Know they get into that sort of thing. Stefan | ||
| Michael Hicks Experienced User Username: bentleyman22 Post Number: 24 Registered: 12-2011 |
The Bosh injection isn’t that good and is just as bad as Lucas And there isn’t any way of fault finding unless you have a big box of parts you know work I have been looking at stand alone ECU’s as a replacement I am building a V12 6.0L to replace my 5.3 in my XJS This all ready has a 4 Speed GM400E Auto Box with a stand alone ECU so I am going for a ECU for the Engine as well Your all saying why spend all that money!!!!!!1 Well it is simple Better fuel consumption better performance better reliability And can be run on LPG a lot happier if you want it to There are some kits out there for under a £1000. Which you are thinking what how much but take in to account fuel savings Less trips to the Garage and when going on trips piece off mined your not going to brake down And when you have a problem just plug it in | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 348 Registered: 7-2009 |
Hi Michael, Oh well, Bosch is what we've got to work with. Myself just for the car I like to be as original as possible. Plenty of engineering merit in diverting don't get me wrong but I love the nostalgia and discovering engineering approach to all my cars. As ridiculous as they seem at times. So far a Mog, Kombi, Elfin Clubman(look them up quite an inspiration) Supra, Bentley, and hopefully soon a Europa. The car I find the most amazing engineering feat...... a lowly Toyota Camry. Hardly exciting. I've got one with 590k on the clock. One head gasket change two changes of shocks and the normal wear and tear issues. Still drive it to work every day. That is a feat of engineering that I totally admire. My experience is no mechanic cares as much about my cars as I do. I might not know as much as them but they have to have a result in a 9>>5 job I've got all the time in the world to get to my solution and ask some of the best minds on the planet on this forum. Certainly helps if you understand your cars. Nothing worse than being at the mercy of some peanut just from ignorance. Looks like your philosophy is not too far off the same. Cheers Stefan | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 349 Registered: 7-2009 |
Micheal, Thinking about it even total re-engineering of a car weather electronic or mechanical can still be admired. Many people have had a crack and done well. Problem is pretty tough to make a car better (from a company like Toyoto) than the original with the amount they spend on RD. Increase performance, decrease life, increase handling, increase wear. Least ways for a predictable marketable product, ultimately all car manufacturers need to have a predictable formula to survive. Certainly don't see many Lamborghini's or Ferrari's with 590k on the clock. They are a beautiful accomplishment but not in my mind the same engineering feat. The Rolls and Bentley's have that potential but most aren't used enough to get there and fall apart from lack of use. Think the forum goes some way to righting this wrong. Getting life out of the old girls from peoples from all walks of life. I draw the line at the point I saw a Shadow turned into a UTE. Guess it served it's function to the owners but... Stefan | ||
| Michael Hicks Experienced User Username: bentleyman22 Post Number: 25 Registered: 12-2011 |
Hi Stefan We love (Jap Crap) The Wife has had 2 Celica’s 1 standard 2.0L and the other GT4 She has a Honda Prelude 2.2 and a Mazda RX7 Convertible 2.4 and there reliability is second to none I have my Jaguar XJS Convertible V12 I have owned this car from 1990 I have My Bentley RT only had this for 3 years but had 3 before that I have my winter Range Rover p38 3.9 My reasons for playing with ECU’s is simply we are getting to the time where parts are getting expensive on nonexistent and the older they get the more problems that can pop up When the jag has its new system fitted the old one will be put in a box in working order for when I pass the car on if ever My two cars will travel a minimum of 10000 pa in Europe so have to be user friendly And all so looking at it from an engineer I hate to think of all the fuel that is just washing the piston liners and shortening the life of the engine All my cars have had the Fans Remove for electric ones (Rad) This because I can control the temp in the motor and get beter performance from them and stop engine wear | ||
| Laurie Fox Frequent User Username: laurie_fox Post Number: 92 Registered: 6-2004 |
I can't contribute anything technically useful to the present topic but I must say that I applaud the experimentation and logical deduction involved. I have always tried to do the same thing where my MK VI is involved and have been rewarded with 99.99% reliability for over 300,000 miles in the last 52 years. The trouble is that I am now in my 97th Year. If I were to be only 44, as I was when I bought B420EY as third owner, I would probably go for a ten year old Bentley with up to 100,000 miles on the clock and get or find out the information necessary to look after it properly. Modern electronics, be they digital or analogue, and hydraulics do not frighten me. To anybody with a suitable mind set the development of electronics in cars from say 1970 onwards is most interesting and, if you have equipment to facilitate exploration, well worth while in relation to your own car. These days my electronics activity (if it can so be described) is confined to rewriting the software for the BDC Forum and running it properly for the Club. The "reward" has been rather odd in that rather than being grateful the Club has attempted to freeze me out. They were not successful and currently there is no official BDC Forum but there is a very good unofficial one at www.bentleyforum.co.uk . We will see what happens next. Having got some information or test results which might be useful to others the next thing to do is to make it available to others in some way. This is where posting to forums comes in - much better that writing and publishing on websites where things cannot easily be discussed. Nevertheless, a website can sometimes be useful. See www.lauriefox7a.me.uk/ledger . Laurie | ||
| Michael Hicks Experienced User Username: bentleyman22 Post Number: 26 Registered: 12-2011 |
Hi Laurie I think this is a Honor to read about your life with your B420EY I will get to this evening How do I get logged in on the Bentley Forum ? I use to be on the Jaguar Forum and be there helping with Tec stuff where I could but some of them didn’t like it so I am not there any longer there loss I use to have a Top Hat I loved it Wife did not so she went (the car) I think you under estimate the value of your knowledge on these cars and one day they will miss it | ||
| Laurie Fox Frequent User Username: laurie_fox Post Number: 93 Registered: 6-2004 |
Michael Since the BDC Forum is currently unofficial and run wholly by myself I don't see any reason why I should not register you. Send me an email (lauriefox7a@aol.com) to give me you email address and I will respond with a username and password. Laurie | ||
| Andy Torkington New User Username: andytork Post Number: 7 Registered: 1-2012 |
Looks like I need tool : "K-Motronic ECU interrogator RH 12210" to check the ECU on my model (1989 Turbo R no CAT motronic) Any ideas whats in this box, I am guessing nothing more than a switch and a globe but guessing wire #3 the business wire must be open collector etc to allow switch and globe Andy Pictures of box at http://rrtechnical.info/sz/sz87/b10.pdf | ||
| Andy Torkington New User Username: andytork Post Number: 8 Registered: 1-2012 |
I retested the fuel flow (I was bored), got over a litre in 30 seconds. Checked for anything obvious, couldn't find anything, no leaks etc p.s. I have a Toyota Hilux with 515,000k's on it, drives like new, think its on its 2nd engine but rest of it could pass as 250,000k | ||
| Andy Torkington New User Username: andytork Post Number: 9 Registered: 1-2012 |
Tested most sensors today (had an issue with voltage on multimeter not being the best, time to buy a new multimeter). All I could test without making harness adapters tested ok, I checked warm and cold, all looks good. A couple of questions :- 1) Where do I find the Boost ECU ? The pictures in the manuals don't quite show me enough 2) What are the big round multiplugs next to my Motronic box. They are 10 pin plugs and look like they could go toegther (i.e. opposites). They appear to come out of the loom near the ECU Any help appreciated. Car is off to Chapmans tomorrow but I am eager to learn as much as possible about these beasts for future reference and interest Andy | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 350 Registered: 7-2009 |
Hi Andy, Boost ECU, unless it changed between models is on the Left hand side front fender. Access it by taking the left indicator light off. If you need to remove the Boost ECU there are a couple of screws behind the overflow tank. Shouldn't need to as you can access the (think 25 way) plug without taking the unit off just for connectivity checks. No Idea about the second question given mine is KE2 Jetronic. Cheers Stefan | ||
| Andy Torkington New User Username: andytork Post Number: 10 Registered: 1-2012 |
After many attempts at finding this issue its fixed (hopefully) !!! Along the way we found the following parts with one issue or another:- Plugs - Had the non-turbo plugs Leads - although looked ok were not working too well Dizzy Caps - both terrible - rotor arms replaced too Dizzy drive belt, frayed - replaced of course Wastegate - was loose in housing and had serious pitting near seat - was machined / repaired Turbo - rebuilt, signs of oil blowing by and movement in bearings Injectors - 6 of have funny spray pattern, will run on 98 fuel for a few months and see how they go, don't appear to be causing issues, don't really fancy the $800+ to replace them Everything else checked, double checked, tripple checked; still had issue when warm but general performance was much better. Anyway.... Car was at Chapmans, been on rollers etc, they took the fuel distributor off and a little filter popped out that was blocked - I think it gave us all a bit of a laugh !!! Bob and his guys did a fantastic job on the car - Much appreciated. Been running the car for a couple of days now and no signs, so fingers crossed its the fault found !! | ||
| James Feller Prolific User Username: james_feller Post Number: 186 Registered: 5-2008 |
seems clear now huh Andy.... blocked fuel supply and badly worn drive belt in twin distributor....so logical. Causes me to wonder where on earth your car had been running and the last time it could have had a good knowledgable service mechanic check it. Its in safe hands with Chapmans from all ive heard about them. I know my 89 Turbo had the dizzy belt replaced a few years back and while I didnt have the issues you have had of note as the condition of this tiny little belt...it resembled split black string! I give the car credit for running as smooth and good as it did! new one on though while I noticed no real difference at least I know it doesnt need disturbing for another 5 to 7 years. Your turbo should have a bit of play in it. Not loose or wobbling but a bit of play is ok and remeber it is lubrcated by oil from the engine. It should never blow thick blue smoke or anyhting like it but an occasional light puff out the ehausts on start up is quite common and provided thats all it is, light and only a second or so...there is no cause for alarm. Injector spray pattern again is important a fine conical mist is what's needed. Its all in the manuals. CLearly these items do age and while not immune to failure, its rare to see them fail. If the car is run on good quality 95-98 RON then they should last indefinatley. Ive never run any of my cars on anything but 98 RON and as such to date never had an issue with gummed up injectors. However location is what it is nd sometimes you cannot be assured of high quality fuel. It is possible to get a tank full of rubbish fuel and it then reeks havoc with the fuel filters, pumps, Fuel distributors and finally the injectors themsleves. Carfeul using injector cleaners...these can sometimes be very hard on the system and cause more trouble. I know you can have the injectors removed and put into ultasonic cleaning baths that remove built up gummy deposits. Hope the car is running well for you know Andy, in most cases the best course of action for a good smooth running Turbo is frequent driving and sustained high speed! law abiding of course!!lol. Well I cannot say I am as my turbo seems always much happier burbling along at 160klms at a nice smooth 2700rpms...though I can only do this on country roads where I can see if the constabulary are about. An occasional blast to 230klms is fabulous but at that speed the bugs splattered all over the front are a bugger to remove! happy motoring! | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 325 Registered: 1-2008 |
When I suspect that the injectors in my cars are giving a less than perfect spray pattern I just chuck a full bottle of any injector cleaner into an almost empty fuel tank and run it down as low as I dare before filling up again with another bottle (or 2 depending on the size of the fuel tank) in the mix. Usually the much stronger %age will work wonders and anything left will be flushed out over the next few (dozen?) gallons. | ||
| Andy Torkington Experienced User Username: andytork Post Number: 11 Registered: 1-2012 |
I have a reasonable service history for up until around 2 years ago, I got the car back in Jan and I am trying to bring it back to top condition. Its not far off now. I am running 98 octane V-Power whenever I can, sometimes the caltex, but the local woolies/caltex station near me doesn't carry 98, the local coles express does but its way too busy some days so I settle for caltex 95 about 1 out of 4 fill ups I know all about over use of injector cleaner, back in the UK I was a V12 jag owner on numerous occasions (alywas xj12 & double six) I bought an pristine 1986 model from an 'old boy' who must have misread the redex bottle, it was 1 capful per tank, not one bottle per tank. As a result the v12 ran like a dog. I got it real cheap. After cleaning the whole fuel system, pretty much 9 of the 12 injectors had red-sand like subtance blocking the gauze filters. Took me two solid days of stripping / flushing the system + a new fuel pump then it ran like a dream. What I am concerned about are:- 1) idle speed appears a little slow (under 500 and drops when lights / wipers on etc 2) Not sure it has the reputed power off the mark, hear about people "lighting up the rear wheels", no risk of that on mine however power / torque when rolling is fantastic, goes like a train - Is this a trait of our 3 speed box ? Andy | ||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 353 Registered: 7-2009 |
Hi Andy, Normal Service, Error codes if any, wary they aren't leading you on a wild goose chase, Fuel, Air, Spark, compression, no air leaks. Then start digging. Not sure about yours specially. But if the O2 is good whilst driving but the idle is bad I'd be looking at what ever contributes to idle speed. The KE2 contributing factors at idle is a balance of hydraulic and pneumatic forces acting on the metering vane coupled with the base current setting for the EHA and whatever the EHA pressure screw is set to. Mine is a Bosch CIS, not sure what your car is. Stefan |
