| Author | Message | ||
     bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 80.6.168.241 |
Baby oil preserves leather Protects stainless steel. and is very cheap. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Martin Cutler Frequent User Username: martin_cutler Post Number: 87 Registered: 7-2007 |
How do you extract the oil from the babies? On a more serious note, what stops the oil rubbing off on your clothes? I use "Ge-wy" leather dressing - soaks in and doesn't leave any residue. Cheers Marty | ||
| Lawrence Heasman Experienced User Username: lheasman Post Number: 28 Registered: 5-2008 |
Has anyone ever used or heard of Letherique products and are they any good? | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1477 Registered: 4-2003 |
Leatherique (Gliptone) is almost the only one to use alternating with with Hide Food 50% every 3 months, and their colour tone is unbeatable. Use Johnsons' baby bum oil at your peril unless you want ragged seats and stained clothes. | ||
| Lawrence Heasman Experienced User Username: lheasman Post Number: 29 Registered: 5-2008 |
Is Gliptone the same product or another product but just as good as the Leatherique stuff, as I think I can source Gliptone locally in Australia. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1478 Registered: 4-2003 |
It's the same brand and company. You may order the colour tone to the R-R name. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1480 Registered: 4-2003 |
Mind you, Gliptone/Leatherique Gentle Cleaner is a con. It is just baby soap: pure soft soap solution from your pharmacy or supermarket. | ||
| Lawrence Heasman Experienced User Username: lheasman Post Number: 30 Registered: 5-2008 |
I'm looking at ordering the REJUVINATOR OIL & PRESTINE CLEAN. Is this the go? | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1481 Registered: 4-2003 |
Only as a last resort before selling the car to some unlucky person if your leather is really stuffed but not split. Otherwise their Liquid Leather is all you need, but their Scuffmaster kit and colouring is good for mildly tarnished interiors. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1014 Registered: 4-2003 |
Well it seems that this is a subject to tie up argument for eons. Connoly's Hide food was the only dressing to be used on our seats because that is what the hand book said. Neither the publishers of the handbooks or Mr Connoly were aware of the sun's rays and heat that we in the antipodes can generate. Personally I found Connolys good for my hands! I have tried all sorts of saddle dressings and Dubbin and beeswax etc etc. Whatever I use I always put the car ort for a few hours in the sun to work up a good heat and then slather the leather with whatever I am using by taking a hand ful and rubbing it in. Ideally I leave it there until the car is needed again. Ladies and gentlemen in white linen suits and frocks do not take kindly to grease stains from leather dressing. So a final polish with a towel is needed. My leather colouring man swears by McGuires (sp) which is good stuff except try getting it out of the bottle. I give up cut it open and scoop out the contents. But wait. My great friend in the leather garment trade has introduced me to R M Williams leather dressing which is in a tube and easily squeezed out! A tube a car seems reasonable and not only does it make the leather feel erotic but it smells great also! This stuff is available from any RM Williams shop. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1482 Registered: 4-2003 |
Otherwise you can buy Colourlock, sold by the Krauts as Colorlock but cheapest from its origin in New Zealand. http://www.colourlock.co.nz/ It is a parasitic repackaging of the Gliptone stuff. In typical German fashion, it is one tenth the volume at five times the price of the Gliptone donor. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1483 Registered: 4-2003 |
Well, get this from the German Rolls-Royce enthusiasts' site if you can understand Bavarian German. For a laugh use http://uk.babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_url to translate it. --------------------------------------- Ich habe keine Ahnung, wie ich auf das "Stuttgart" komme... Irgendwas gab es da mal in dem Zusammenhang. Völlig egal. Lederzentrum ist auf jeden Fall richtig. Die haben eine äußerst kompetente Telefonberatung. Alle Fragen werden dort wirklich ausführlichst beantwortet. Man kann zudem Infos zur Verarbeitung schon vorab postalisch anfordern. Mit den Produkten kommen zudem genaueste Anweisungen zur Anwendung. Immer ganz wichtig bei Nachtönungen ist in jedem Fall: Ausreichend entfetten! Heißt: Wer sein Leder regelmäßig mit irgendwelchen Ölen und Fetten pflegte und nun nach Reinigung (die übrigens auch noch rückfettend ist) tönen will, muss erstmal ausgiebig mit viel Reinigungsbenzin entfetten. Ein weiterer, sehr wichtiger Punkt ist das Muster, welches man einschickt. Man sollte immer bedenken, wo man es abschneidet/hernimmt und in welchem Zustand es ist. Dieses Stückchen wird dann nämlich vom Lederzentrum gereinigt, und die Farbe wird entsprechend angemischt. Kam das Stückchen von unterm Sitz und ist wie neu, wird der neue Lederton im Zweifelsfall deutlich dunkler, da ja nie UV-Licht auf dieses Lederstück auftraf. Nimmt man zB. die Kopfstütze der Rücksitze sieht die Sache wieder anders aus usw... Zudem: Es reicht oft mengenmäßig nicht das normale Kit. Es macht Sinn, gleich zwei kleine Tönungsfarben-Flaschen zu erwerben. Oder man nimmt gleich einen Liter (Preislich dann egal - habe ich immer gemacht) und hat auf Vorrat, falls irgend was Dummes passiert. Grund: Entgegen deren Behauptung kriegt das Lederzentrum bei Nachorder selbst bei dort vorliegendem, gleichen Muster die Farbe nicht exakt hin. Ich habe jetzt drei Autos damit gemacht und gehe immer auf Nummer sicher: Lieber mehr anfertigen lassen und dann immer den gleichen Ton vorrätig haben. Ein weitere Punkt, in welchem man selbst auch mitdenken muss, weil das Lederzentrum darauf eher nicht hinweist, ist die Situation bei extrem stark ramponiertem Leder. Das war bei einem Freund der Fall: Er erwarb für seine sehr abgenutzten Sitze (also Farbe weggescheuert/ Leder ist nämlich nicht durchgefärbt) auch die Tönung und musste folglich unzählige Schichten der semitransparenten Tönung auftragen, um endlich Deckung zu erhalten. Hier empfiehlt sich stattdessen ein regelrechter Farbauftrag mit Lederfarbe/Lack, die man dort auch bestellen kann. Sie wird wie beim Lackieren eines Autos direkt auf das Leder gesprüht. Das kann man allerdings nicht mehr zu Hause machen. Dies ist Arbeit für einen Kenner/Profi. Ergebnis kann bei guter Arbeit erstklassig sein. PS; Lederzentrum ist identisch mit Colourlock. (Falls Ihnen/Euch mal dieser Name genannt wird). Zudem gibt es unter "Suche" hier auf dem Forum schon einige Beiträge dazu. Da hatte ich auch schon mal Lederzentrum Stuttgart notiert... Damals war Jimmie aber noch nicht so ausgeschlafen wie heut' *g | ||
| Lawrence Heasman Experienced User Username: lheasman Post Number: 31 Registered: 5-2008 |
The leather is in good condition, a few surface cracks and the odd grubby bit here and there, so just need a good cleaner and conditioner really. I have some of the Connelly leather feed on order so just need to clean it up before a slap that on! | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 794 Registered: 9-2004 |
To start the first process if the colour is ok. First IMO use the gliptone liquid leather "gentle cleaner" then when finished as the instructions use the Connolly hide food again as per instructions. Next use the gliptone liquid leather conditioner, this will give the smell of the original leather. IMO leave for a day or two then finish with the Woolies sealing paste. To change the colour etc it requires a longer process. This is the headrests that I obtained in green and changed to match the interior. Can give a run down of the procedure if needed.    | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1484 Registered: 4-2003 |
Sorry, I wrote that Leatherique (USA) is the same as Gliptone (UK). It seems that I am probably wrong. I am very satisfied with Gliptone and Connolly products, especially with the Gliptone Liquid Leather and colouring. Maybe Leatherique products are the same or similar, but I don't know. They certainly read much the same. RT. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 843 Registered: 4-2003 |
FYI, I originally approved the baby oil post on the basis that baby oil is used in many instances as a leather conditioner. The "secret" ingredient is, of course, good old-fashioned lanoline which is included in most leather dressings that i have come across. Like most conditioners, to avoid staining clothes, excess must be wiped off after a reasonable soaking-in period with a soft, dry absorbent cloth. Some years ago when Connolly Hide Food went through its unavailablity period following the cessation of business by Connolly, I found a good alternative in "Oakwood Leather Dressing". This gives a really good result and I put this down to the fact it contaims Emu Oil along with the traditional ingredients. The only drawback is that it does not have the traditional smell associated with Connolly oil-tanned leather. www.oakwoodproducts.com.au/ I was once advised by a Club member that when they had their car retrimmed with non-Connolly leather, they kept swatches of the original leather and attached it under the car seat to provide that unique fragrance asociated with R-R vehicles. In my experience, the most effective cleaning method for soiled leather is to gently scrub the leather with a soft brush using warm water and a good-quality saddle soap. Wipe off the residue and rinse the surface with a soft cotton towel regularly during cleaning. | ||
| James Feller Experienced User Username: james_feller Post Number: 38 Registered: 5-2008 |
Interesting topic, I have tried them all, Meguirs, Mothers, Connely etc etc. I must confess all the premium brands, while doing a good job initially, left a kind a chalky dry residue. I use Connely Cream twice a year as per hand book but my only critisism of Connelys is it tends to act as a 'glue' and you end up sticking to the seats for a period until your back and posterier polish it off.... I was told by a reputable upholsterer to give, of all things, Niva Skin Cream a go. Its a rich white cream, not the skin balm. I did and frankly can only rave about it. It has a very faint fragance so does not mask the natural aroma of the leather and it soaks beautifully into the leather areas. I left it liberally applied for 4 days before wiping excess off with a cloth. It doesn't give that high shine finish, just really nourishes the leather. I used a very mild glycerine saddle soap to clean the leather first then applied the Niva cream. I know it sounds a bit daft but the leather is very supple and soft now and has lost that dry hardness the front seat squabs had. Bill is right, our harsh summer sun really gives the dash top roll and seats a hammering. I have since applied some Connely's again to bring back a protective coat and shine to the leather and all looks good. Just my expirience as I was tired of the leather while in good conditon feeling a bit dry and hard... However I will give this Gliptone stuff a whirl and see how it goes. J | ||
| Jason Pfeiffer Frequent User Username: jpsnaggs Post Number: 70 Registered: 7-2006 |
Have not posted in awhile but thought I would give you my two cents. Before I had my car retrimmed, I tried a wide variety of products. While I did find Gliptone easy to apply and did the job, I found the smell to be "Un Rolls-Royce like." That being said, it did smell like leather, just not like Connolly leather. I swear by hide food. It has the smell which I savor, and works nicely. It is a bit more difficult to put on, and my trick (as I read on this post) is to let the car heat up a bit in the sun, slather it on, and let is soak in a bit. Reading David Gore's post... I had my car retrimmed in Non-Connolly leather for the following reason - I searched many many months and reviewed many leathers before retriming. My leather guy here in Los Angeles had done several cars in what is supposed to be Connely Leather. As far as I know, the company no longer exsists, however you can purchase some old stock from several online outlets. When I looked at these products (full hides) they just appeared old to me. I also did research online on other boards, and some people who used old connolly hides didnt like the outcome. The trick of tacking on some original leather to the seat bottoms does the trick, along with some hide food... Since I didnt have to redo the doors, the smell is perfect. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1485 Registered: 4-2003 |
[quote]: While I did find Gliptone easy to apply and did the job, I found the smell to be "Un Rolls-Royce like". [unquote] Indeed, that's why many of us have gone for Gliptone Liquid Leather AND Hide Food at the same time. Sure, Liquid Leather used alone is a little too perfumed for Roll-Royce and Bentley cars to most people. However, Hide Food smells of sheep, and again is un-Rolls-Royce like to most. Hence the mix, anless a lamswool tannery is your bent. Why ? Hide Food is simply anhydrous lanolin mixed with paraffin (pure, clear mineral oil) with no perfume added. Both lanolin and paraffin are available from the pharmacy. Fortunately, Hide Food is cheap, but to make your own is even cheaper if you wish. That's why Hide Food smells of sheep: lanolin is just sheep fat. I could post the FDA data sheet, but that could upset someone. I even have the Hide Food recipe from an English upholstery firm, prepared when the branded mix was hard to buy. The FDA sheet on Jo******* Baby Oil shows that it is ”...Mineral Oil and ...%w/w Fragrance”. It is almost pure mineral oil, read paraffin, with a touch of fragrance. It completely lacks the lanolin base, one good agent needed to preserve leather softness over time. Baby oil may soften the surface for a short while, but being paraffin, it dries out quickly, just like a chronically dry baby’s bum does in a few hours. RT. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 844 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Richard, Thanks for the "heads-up" on modern baby oil - my experience was with an older oil from the 1980's which did contain lanoline. Lanoline is a by-product of wool scouring after shearing to render the wool suitable for spinning - the sight and smell of the raw product is something you never forget. You might remember the experience of driving past the Goulburn wool scouring plant when the wind was in the "wrong" direction!!! | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Frequent User Username: lluís Post Number: 53 Registered: 8-2007 |
Hi all, Just to add my pennies worth of experience to this threat. This week-end I completed the liquid leather treatment by Gliptone to my interior. I followed the procedure suggested here: wash, scuff master, conditioner, all from Gliptone and finally hide food (from Bentley, bought from a retailer for 17.50€) as suggested in this threat. The leather looks magnificent without being over-done. The softness and the smell are simply spot on. It's brilliant and worth every second of effort. Best regards Lluís | ||
| Trevor P Hodgkinson Experienced User Username: wm20 Post Number: 19 Registered: 11-2006 |
I have tried just about every product ever invented, to treat leather. My Shadows were working cars ( till Mr Howard forced Mr Carr to deregulate, but that is another story ). I found the Leatherique system a Godsend but as the others have said it smells wrong, so I do the door trims with Connoleys and it all seems to balance out quite well. The other big leather saver has been leather wipes. I have tried 3 different brands but don't notice any difference & feel that they are most likely all the same product in 3 different packages. When the cars were being used two or three times weekly the leather took a beating particularly with the quite rough lace on wedding dresses and the massive amount of make up that seems to have become SOP now days. So without fail I wipe down the leather with a wipe every time the car gets used then polish them off the next morning and have bee very happy with the results to date, particularly with the car with ivory coloured leather. I haven't bought any leatherique lately due to the afore mentioned political changes but when I did I bought it direct from the agent ( at Lindfield), a real nice bloke & a total pleasure to deal with | ||
| StevenBrown Experienced User Username: stevenbrown Post Number: 22 Registered: 10-2008 |
I tend to follow the manuals on items when possible and available. Leather is a living organism, like using hide care (food). But also use a non alkaline and ph balanced for leather soap (not saddle) for the actual cleaning. Lexol is the brand. This is more for cleaning stitching that is not leather. Then I leave vehicle out in sun on hot day, after applying Leatherique Rejuvenation oil. The final step is a application as recommended by the manual, Hide Care (food). Gives close to proper new car leather smell. If deviating from manual with products, I make sure they are at least the same general ingredients. When I decided that a Spur was needed. Most I looked at, all had the rear shelf seat belt covers with shrunken leather. Seems that is an area a lot over look. Just a reminder especially for those in warmer climates. One of the few spots that mine needs the aid of a trimmer. Not easy to find in the U.S. | ||
| alan white New User Username: wp51dos Post Number: 2 Registered: 10-2009 |
concerning Patrick Lockyer who changed the colour of leather. he showed headrests obtained in green and changed to match the interior. and offered to give a run down of the procedure if needed. please tell us how to do that | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 817 Registered: 9-2004 |
Hi Alan,this IMO is a DIY way that I have used to give good results to avoid being a cheque book charlie that unfortunatly many owners of this type of car may have become! First remove the trim seats etc from the car and lay in a ventelated particulat free room or outside on a still dry day. One seat or panel at a time use some thinners with a good soaking in a cloth and gently rub off all the dye untill the original leather [brown] is showing. When you are sure the the dye is removed leave the seats panels for three or four days to breath and to depleat the thinners smell. Procceed to give hide food to all the leather as it is living item,leave then for two days to do its job. Now is the time to start the dye proccess,firt apply the dye sparingly with a cloth for two applications making sure that the dye has penatrated all parts, once completed leave for two days. Now is the time to give the final and perfect finish with the dye,this is carried out with two applications with a small spray gun to apply a uniform finish this is then left to air dry. Once well dry use a sealer to complete the job. Re fit the seats etc and use after a week. Hope this will help you to carry out a perfect job!!!! |
