| Author | Message | ||
     lucien mc fadden Experienced User Username: lucienm Post Number: 11 Registered: 7-2005 |
Saturday my 1976 Shadow #LRE 25894 started making a noise when braking-sort of like the fan hitting the shroud-but it was definitly the brakes-this morning i pumped the brakes before starting-only got about 10 pedal pumps before #1 light came on-does this mean that the #1 pump needs to be overhauled? I had #2 pump overhauled last year. after runing the car(at idle) for awhile i did the pump test again 50 pumps before# 1 light came on-100 pumps before #2 light came on. | ||
| Paul Yorke Frequent User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 83 Registered: 6-2006 |
Lucien, The pumps seem fine from what you've said. Are you sure it is not the fan hitting the fan cowling? If your engine mounts are soft, torn or worn, it can often touch. Also if new mounts are fitted but the stop plate on the front mount is set wrongly, it can foul. In really bad cases the fan will actually tear into the radiator and jam. | ||
| lucien mc fadden Experienced User Username: lucienm Post Number: 12 Registered: 7-2005 |
Paul: no, its not the fan-i was in front of the car when the driver pulled up-thats when i heard the noise. he the driver said it was the brakes-he then proceeded to put the car in drive and hit the brake pedal-the noise started and stopped as he applied the brakes and then put the car in neutral again. today i warmed up the car-i did not drive it-i tried applying the brakes, but got no noise. | ||
| Paul Yorke Frequent User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 84 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Lucien, Was the noise happening: When the car was moving without braking. When the car was moving and braking gently? When the car was moving and braking hard? When the car was braking almost to a stop and for a 1/2 ( split ) second after the vehicle stopped moving? When the vehicle was already stopped and you pressed the brake hard? Did any of them change if the heater blower motor was on & off? | ||
| lucien mc fadden Experienced User Username: lucienm Post Number: 13 Registered: 7-2005 |
Was the noise happening: When the car was moving without braking. no When the car was moving and braking gently? yes When the car was moving and braking hard? yes When the car was braking almost to a stop and for a 1/2 ( split ) second after the vehicle stopped moving? yes When the vehicle was already stopped and you pressed the brake hard? no Did any of them change if the heater blower motor was on & off? no | ||
| lucien mc fadden Experienced User Username: lucienm Post Number: 14 Registered: 7-2005 |
Paul: you thinking water pump fan? | ||
| Paul Yorke Frequent User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 86 Registered: 6-2006 |
Lucien, I am still thinking the water pump fan. You could try this in the same place, as you approach the stopping place, put the car in neutral, switch off the engine so you are coasting. Then press the breaks hard. Any noise now? Bring the car to a stop swiftly, and restart the car before moving away. (I'm suggesting this because you have confirmed you have between 50 and 100 pumps of the pedal before the brake pressure warning lights come on ) | ||
| Mernon Lollich New User Username: mernon_lollich Post Number: 9 Registered: 5-2005 |
This (as usual) is a real shot in the dark, but worth checking. My SWII LRK37662 made a sort of banging noise when braking and when turning either right or left. It turned out to be a misaligned downpipe from the manifold contacting the protruding crankcase/sump joint. There was only about 1/16" clearance and was easily corrected. Mernon LSJF72 | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1294 Registered: 4-2003 |
Here's a quick check. Open the bonnet enough to see the motor from the driver's seat. Accelerate forward down the driveway then slam on the brakes after a few metres. If you see the rear of the motor lift visibly or if it skews to one side, then you will know that you have a broken engine mount or two. That is something all too common on these cars as it is often not obvious by visibly inspecting the mounts. | ||
| Paul Dabrowski Experienced User Username: shabbyshadow2 Post Number: 19 Registered: 9-2005 |
Gentleman, Just after I purchased SRH35979 - SS2, i found I had a strange banging noise on acceleration, unless it was very light acceleration. It was a real metallic metal on metal bang. After a few cigarettes and a think about it, I found it was the viscous fan coupling on the main engine fan. Apparently the wax inside had leaked? and it was just freewheeling, the increase in the waterpump when accelerating then backing off caused it to bang. I scared me, I thought the fan was hitting the shroud. The noise was enough to give visions if the fan slicing through the radiator core and enough for pedestrians to stare. Just my 2 cents! Regards, Paul | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 737 Registered: 9-2004 |
The quick check of slaming brakes on may well resault in the fan recking the radiator etc if the mountings are in poor condition and let go. Nothing to stop enough excess forward movement of the unit. Better to pop to your local garage and have a load check carried out on them [mounts] with the use of the engine transmission jack with hoist. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1295 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hey, he's already slamming (what is slaming ?) on the brakes. At speed too. A quick stop at a very low speed may reveal all as Pop at the local garage seems incapable of sorting this out. | ||
| Paul Yorke Frequent User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 87 Registered: 6-2006 |
Well I guess it would be a quick check, and with all the steam and water it would be definitive check as well! lol. Lucien, when you check the engine mounts you do need to jack up the transmission or at the bell housing and take some of the weight off the mounts. Because of the angle the rear mounts are set, it is often hard to spot a torn mounting because the weight of the engine holds them together. Look out for swollen soft rubber as well as splits. Front mounts do not take such a pounding but they do suffer from oil damage. Even a tiny oil leak (God forbid your Rolls-Royce might have one!  ) over time will cause it balloon and soften. The stop above the mount must be set carefully to stop the engine going too far forward. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1296 Registered: 4-2003 |
Were it so bad, then after [quote]_____________________ then proceeded to put the car in drive and hit the brake pedal ____________________________[unquote], far more stressing than a simple gentle check, the whole drivetrain would have landed on the pavement by now. | ||
| Paul Yorke Frequent User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 88 Registered: 6-2006 |
Richard, I think half your post is missing. Lucien, Don't take the whole drive train out to check, that would be silly. | ||
| lucien mc fadden Experienced User Username: lucienm Post Number: 15 Registered: 7-2005 |
I did as Paul suggested:at about 25 mph i put the car in neutral & turned off the motor and hit the brakes-no noise. I restarted the car popped the bonnet shifted into gear,with my foot on brake gave it some gas-the motors raises ever so slightly on the left side-not enough for me to think the mounts are shot. | ||
| Paul Yorke Frequent User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 89 Registered: 6-2006 |
Lucien, With the engine not running you got no noise. I think that was because the fan is not turning - so no noise when it touches. With what you've said so far, I'm definitely going for the fan touching the cowling or the radiator. Almost definitely caused by engine mounts. You need to get the car up on a ramp and jack it up on either side of the bell housing. Lift it enough to take the weight off the mountings. See how much they lift or come apart. It's unusual for them to go out of adjustment. It's very common for them to tear. As mentioned before, it's almost impossible to tell with the engine weight on. Even when revving it in gear. Best part of a Ton sitting on the mountings. Shadow II's and early Spirits often break the left hand exhaust manifold when the engine mounts are shot. Good luck , don't do any emergency stops!  (Message edited by paul yorke on 21 September 2007) | ||
| bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: client-81-108-180-152.brig.adsl.tesco.net |
jack car up and spin the wheels No1 pump is fine. When the brakes are pumped with out engine and the light comes on it means that the accumulator on that pump is exhausted of hydraulic pressure ( or low pressure depends on what country the car was made for ) Once the engine has been run for at least 4 MINS the accumulators will be fully charged. engine off should then be about 90 pumps for both no1 and no2 ( 90 pumps not 180 pumps ) So after you next use the car turn engine off and recheck no1 if if is still 50 pumps then the accumulator is past its best and you need to keep a check on the acculmulator say every week or 200 miles. When it gets to 30 pumps you need to change. The engine mounting are almost a consumable item and if they are the originals then change them. They are a known weak point. If the engine moves around it can casue all sorts of things to hit each other such as exhausts and in extreme cases chop the rad up. The engine and g/box weighs a lot and has mass energy -- the car stops but the engine carries on---- even slight movement outside normal parameters can screw things up. check wheel nuts Check caliper mounting bolts Check the pads -remove them for a proper look Also is the noise in time with wheel rotation. If a noise is 3 time faster than the wheel then it is propshaft and anything running with the propshaft. Once found a reel of duct tape stuck to a propshaft, at 5 mph the noise of it hitting the exhaust made the driver stop and have the car recovered. keep an open mind and have a good look. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| lucien mc fadden Experienced User Username: lucienm Post Number: 16 Registered: 7-2005 |
Greetings All! :} Well, the "noisy brakes" turns out to have been a loose fan cowling. I have anchored the cowl and trimned it just a bit with a dremel tool -everything is fine! Thanks to everyone for your imput. Now if i can just find an inexpensive substitue motor for the window lifts-any ideas? | ||
| Paul Yorke Frequent User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 92 Registered: 6-2006 |
Good to hear you found the noise. Do you know why the cowling was loose? Did you check the mountings? Just worried that it was the fan hitting the cowling that loosened it? The nuts holding the fan on should be Nylock or similar. I'm not sure you could get a better or much cheaper motor, they are also fairly repairable. Unfortunately, they don't like water. Second-hand units are available here in the UK. They are usually worth a strip, lube and, file of the brushes first though. |
