| Author | Message | ||
     Richard Greene Frequent User Username: benzjag Post Number: 275 Registered: 12-2012 |
I bought a 1968 Fixed-Head Coupe this past spring w/ 34,000 actual miles. I paid my retired RR dealership tech/friend to replace every component in the brake system;therefore,the brakes are perfect! He also rebuilt the carbs and the fuel system. When the car was back in my shop in July of this year, I "fixed" every thing wrong electrical, such as the windows, lighting, climate blower motors, gauges, seats, etc. I then refreshed the interior (changing the color from gray to palomino); recovered the dash, and repaired parts of the leather. All that to my depression yesterday! The car would NOT start until I sprayed starter fluid into the intake. It then fired instantly! The car had not been started from this past July until yesterday. It has a new battery, fresh gas, and oil. Once started, the car ran great with NO smoke. The temp yesterday was 47F. Thinking it had not been started in months and it being cold, I tried again today because the temp was 53F. Still no joy without the starting fluid! I called my RR tech. He is thinking "low compression"! This "possible" diagnosis with all that has been done to the car has created my depression! This is not final without checking the actual compression! Any feedback or insight is much appreciated! Richard | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3399 Registered: 06-2009 |
Richard, I hate to ask, but I will anyway: Are you waiting after turning the key to the "Run" position for the SU fuel pump to stop ticking before attempting to start the car? What you describe sounds like lack of priming and that the starter fluid is taking the place of that. Does it start once warm after having been driven and turned off? Brian | ||
| Richard Greene Frequent User Username: benzjag Post Number: 276 Registered: 12-2012 |
Brian, Yes, I wait until the fuel pump stops. In fact, I go through 3 cycles. The pump stops after each. After the initial cold start (with starter fluid), the car starts instantly (without sf) every time I try it, even hours after the initial cold start. Richard | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 417 Registered: 10-2009 |
Richard, check that the choke mechanism is operating OK to put the choke lever in the right position after you have pressed the throttle pedal momentarily. The engine will definitely not start from cold unless the choke is ON. Alan D. | ||
| Mark Aldridge Frequent User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 893 Registered: 10-2008 |
Are the carb pistons and bells clean and what grade oil is in the dashpot. Is the choke closing properly, ie not sticking. Have you checked the Vacuum when running, are there any perished vac hoses and is the distributor advance retard both vac and bobweights free and not sticking. I am not sure whether a mixture weakener is fitted to your car,but if so again check the solenoid valve is working. My guess is the fault is due to lack of use, and I would doubt a compression issue but I may be tempted to use an upper cyl lube in the fuel for a while. I usually use 2 stroke oil or ATF for this. I personally hate ether starting compounds as they have been known to do damage particularly to diesels. Mark | ||
| Richard Greene Frequent User Username: benzjag Post Number: 277 Registered: 12-2012 |
Alan..Yes, the choke seems to be working. The butterfly is closed when cold and opens completely when hot. Mark..I think you have a valid point. The car has sat for 15+ years. As mentioned, my RR retired tech (45 years @ dealership) rebuilt the carbs/fuel system. It has only run maybe 30 minutes in all these years (and since the carb rebuild). I use ATF in my MB diesels with great results! How much do you use in gas engines? | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2357 Registered: 05-2012 |
Another thing to check is the voltage at the coil while cranking the engine. It should be 12v for an engine with points. When the engine has started the coil voltage reduces to 9v through the ballast resister for normal running. If there's a wiring anomaly you may be trying to start the engine with 9v or less. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3400 Registered: 06-2009 |
As the old saying goes, it comes down to one of three things: Fuel Air Spark Based upon what's already been said here and on RollsRoyceForums.com, it's pretty darned certain that it's Fuel or a Fuel/air combo in all probability. Though Geoff's recommendation to check start spark voltage is certainly worth doing. If it's running fine once it's brought to life with starting fluid there's likely nothing wrong with the engine itself. Brian | ||
| John Rowney Experienced User Username: johnrowney Post Number: 175 Registered: 02-2015 |
I always suggest that the simple test of spraying carby cleaner around the inlet manifold will detect if there is a leak or leaks in the gaskets. Once running, at low revs, it there is a leak, the carby cleaner will enrich the mixture and the car will run smoother. This would be almost the equivalent of spraying starter fluid into the carby to get the motor to start. A leak in the inlet manifold will not normally be noticed when the car is running at normal revs. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2598 Registered: 09-2004 |
As the old saying goes (BY you no who) it comes down to one of three things: Fuel Air Spark New one on me! THREE What about compression. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2358 Registered: 05-2012 |
For the uninitiated - Brian lives rent free in Patrick's head - lol. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3404 Registered: 06-2009 |
Geoff, Blessedly, the reverse is not true. Ya gotta love those who like to play inane "what about?" games with very conventional and well-worn advice that's about the basics. | ||
| Richard Greene Frequent User Username: benzjag Post Number: 278 Registered: 12-2012 |
UPDATE: I replaced the spark plugs today with NGK. The car started INSTANTLY (and is running perfectly)! The "old" plugs did not look bad, but evidently, were not firing properly! As expected, the plugs on the passenger side were easy to replace, BUT on the driver's side, they were a xxxx to get out with all the brake lines! I used a long extension swivel socket. More of a problem was getting the wires back on the plugs! I used some long needle nose pliers! It would be interesting how you guys do it! Sincere THANKS to all who reached out! Richard | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3405 Registered: 06-2009 |
Richard, Congrats!! This one came down to "spark," obviously. I honestly cannot remember exactly how I got the spark plug wires back on "beneath the reservoir." Brian |
