| Author | Message | ||
     Jeff Martin Frequent User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 552 Registered: 07-2018 |
The seller says this is from a 4-1/2 litre Bentley, but no an R-Type, probably form a big bore, short boot Bentley. Will this work on the 4-1/4 litre engine, I just want to be sure before making an offer. My part number is RE10609, and on the eBay page, it could be that _ parts book says it's supposed to be RE10639, but that doesn't match mine at all. Thanks https://www.ebay.com/itm/134278804730   . | ||
| NormanGeeson Unregistered guest Posted From: 81.99.74.184 |
The manifold appears to be from a latish 4.5 ltr MkVi, prior to R Type. Check against your manifold that you have an air cleaner four stud foot and your carbs are four bolt fittings. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| ChristopherCarnley Unregistered guest Posted From: 13.42.104.45 |
Jeff, It is for the later 4 stud H6 carburettors, ie 4 1/2 litre cars. C. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| ChristopherCarnley Unregistered guest Posted From: 13.40.45.206 |
The manifold is for the 4 stud carburettors H6. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Jeff Martin Frequent User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 556 Registered: 07-2018 |
Thanks Chris and Norman, it will work then. I read somewhere, perhaps in one of your technical papers Norman, that the ends of the manifold are a dead area where fuel collects from the stream and puddles there. This in turn eventually gets drawn into the engine causing this slight "pfft" in the exhaust when burned, the engine moves away from it's "stillness" at idle when this happens. I know I read it somewhere _ I'm going through your articles now Norman, I could have come across it in the forum here too. I plan on figuring out on how to fill those cavities, hence the extra manifold. JB-Weld putty comes to mind initially, but that's a pretty crude solution, there's a well seasoned machinist that will be very interested in this project. I feel very lucky to have such people around me, and they're not ancient to the point where they're planning to retire in a week or two, most of them are younger then me. | ||
| Jeff Martin Frequent User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 557 Registered: 07-2018 |
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| NormanGeeson Unregistered guest Posted From: 81.99.74.184 |
Jeff I would advise against using any material that could break away and cause major engine damage. My original thought was to machine the ends off the manifold and then produce removable caps for the ends that would accept dies of different experimental shapes. At the experimental stage I would bond the caps with "plastersine" or "blue tack". Latter fully bonding the caps in place. Once the ends are machined the manifold interior can be polished. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Jeff Martin Frequent User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 562 Registered: 07-2018 |
Thanks for your info. Norman. When someone else posts, I get this "NEW" post icon in yellow, but not in this case, why is that David ? This has been sitting here for a while and didn't realize it. "Ends that would accept dies of different experimental shapes" Norman, is it that critical as long as it mimics the design of the rest of the casting, where the dead ends are eliminated ? Just looking at the whole thing, the entire path the atmosphere takes is not very good anyway IMO, it's too short and takes too may sharp 90 degree bends. I thought the idea behind a well designed intake was to have as little sharp corners as possible and all the ports the same length, or as best as possible, this RR manifold is far from either of those. And the head, why four ports, why not three, the way it sits now 1 and 6 get the lions share, while 2/3 and 4/5 are divided ? In a 3 port arrangement the division would at least be equal. To me, it looks as if they didn't quite understand the best way to get the air into the engine _ whole thing seems rather odd. Polishing the inside may help with the flow of air and keep droplets of fuel forming on anywhere of the manifold, from what appears to be a poor design over-all. Just me thinking out-loud. I found where I read it too Norman; took some digging. It's under "Thermostats" on page 36. For anyone who wants to know. https://kda132.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Cylinder-Blocks.pdf | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 4232 Registered: 04-2003 |
Jeff, Norman Geeson is not a registered member for this Forum but regularly posts as a Guest and this is the most likely reason for the different colour signifying a new post from him. You might note Norman and Christopher Carnley's posts always include a notation that I have approved their posts for inclusion in the relevant threads for this reason.  | ||
| Bill Vatter Experienced User Username: bill_vatter Post Number: 165 Registered: 09-2004 |
The eBay listing referenced is by the same seller who recently sold an engine, from which this manifold probably came. Look here: Moderator edit: Long link deleted to eliminate scrolling - correct link in following post It is a 4-1/2 block but from a car built when they still had twin coils mounted on the bulkhead, That would include very early R-types. At the time, the seller said the engine came from an R-type car that he had parted out. The seller operated a parts recycling business (junk yard) for exotic and antique cars, but doesn't specialize in RR/B products. Sorry if that address doesn't come up as a click-able link. I don't know how to do that on this website. However, you can cut and past the long address into your browser, and it will take you to the completed eBay listing. | ||
| Jeff Martin Frequent User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 563 Registered: 07-2018 |
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175453400718 You have to high-light only part of the address and use the icon above with the globe and chain to post it in. When you click on that icon, you already get part of the address, that has to be deleted or it won't work. Here is what it should look like, not that big long mess of a link _ and don't ask me why the addresses from eBay do that. |
