| Author | Message | ||
     Trevor Pickering Prolific User Username: commander1 Post Number: 101 Registered: 6-2012 |
I want to replace the rear screen on my 1990 Spur 11 as it is starting to go "milky" round the bottom edge. At the same time there are some rust spots starting to come round the edge of the rubber seal on the screen. What is the correct method of removing the screen please as I doubt the normal windscreen replacement companies will have done this on a Silver Spur ? Thanks Trevor | ||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 164 Registered: 11-2018 |
Trevor I have never done a spur but have done lots of Shadows. I know the Spur front is a totally different fit than the Shadow but the rear screen does look pretty much the same style. Your first decision is to look at the rubber quality and decide if you are going to change that. It is not really possible to successfully remove the glass, rubber and chrome trim finisher in one piece so I always cut the rubber around the chrome trim and remove the chrome trim then to relieve the pressure so the screen can be pushed out from inside. Robert Spraeur offered another alternative to cut the rubber from inside which again I could see would work too but you have to be careful of the heated rear window wiring at the lower edge which is embedded in the rubber and drops inside the boot behind the rear parcel shelf. As you are actually replacing the glass you could opt to save the rubber then albeit you will likely break the glass anyway to keep the rubber and at least save the expense of a new rubber if it does look OK so just go for pushing it all out from inside and don't worry about breaking the glass. Firstly you will have to remove all the inner trim around the screen the rear shelf and likely the rear back of the seat etc...in order to fully expose the screen inner rubber lip. Also disconnect the rear window heater electrics probably same as Shadow inside the rear boot/trunk. Plenty of blankets on the rear paintwork and someone outside just to steady the glass as it pops out. From inside I lay on my back with a soft pair of gym shoes and just push the screen out with my feet using my finger tips to pull down the inner rubber lip at the same time. Start at the top and slowly work your way to each side. Once the top and sides are free the whole thing can be just lifted out of the bottom. It is much easier if you have decided to go the new rubber route as usually you can just push out by hand and if not you will undoubtedly break the glass as it is much more pressure required to push the whole screen out with your feet. It is in effect just normal sheet glass with a plastic sheet sandwiched between, so quite fragile unlike toughened glass which is more forgiving with pressure applied on the surface. The milky problem at the lower corners is water ingress damage that has with capillary action got between the two glass parts and the laminate sheet. It is terminal and nothing I know of can cure this other than a new screen. However when replacing a new screen I always run around the edge with the primer used when fitting a bonded screen to help seal this area. I also put a fine bead of windscreen mastic inside the rubber before slipping it over the glass. Do beware of what windscreen mastic you select as IIRC RR warned of one particular make of product having an adverse effect on the plastic laminate. Again all I can say is I have never had any problem when using the primer bond on the edge of the glass first. Always ensure when you fit a new screen you lay the chrome finisher over the glass first and make sure it is a nice profile fit to the glass profile. The chrome strip is then inserted into the rubber and the whole unit fitted back as a complete assembly. Again you need to run windscreen mastic around the body aperture and run a strong cord in the rubber all round. Perhaps better to address re-fitting the new screen as another thread as you obviously want to do some bodywork before refit....... I hear of a few unscrupulous owners have purposely broken their screens and claimed the replacement through their insurance and just paid the excess. Sadly these people do exist setting their engine bays on fire down a country lane etc etc etc....sadly puts the cost of insurance up for all of us. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 203 Registered: 11-2017 |
I would order a new seal because the old one would not be pliable enough for the reinstall and may actually tear. The chrome finisher is installed into the seal, seal placed around glass and then fitted to the car. best to find the TSD for the process and print and give to the shop to give them some direction. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 369 Registered: 5-2016 |
A tip when fitting the rubber seal to the screen is to do it in a warm room as the rubber becomes more pliable which reduces the risk of stretching it too much. | ||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 165 Registered: 11-2018 |
Larry the only problem is I would struggle getting the car through my front door and I am banned now from rebuilding SU pumps and window regulators in the kitchen too  Seriously though.... I totally agree not just for the rubber but the mastic is also better used when warmer environment. When I have had to fit screens in colder weather I always warm the mastic tube up first. Another tip on refitting is I run my finger around the outer radii edge of the body skin aperture with a small smear of Vaseline/petroleum jelly. It just helps the drag on the edge of the body with the rubber when pulling the cord to bring the lip inside. | ||
| Trevor Pickering Prolific User Username: commander1 Post Number: 102 Registered: 6-2012 |
Thanks to all for the help. Prior to starting work I am going to get a quote from the body shop to do the required paint work. There are rust bubbles in several places along the bottom edge of the screen rubber. I also have a rust bubble next to the track on the sun roof so it looks like more than just the rear screen Looks like this is going to be a fairly costly job!!!  | ||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 167 Registered: 11-2018 |
Trevor....not wanting to be the bearer of further bad news but I would expect you may have a lot of rust in the channel too once the screen is removed. I have removed screens only to find the whole of the channel at the base and lower corners perforated through with rust. At the very least if you decide to have this work done by a third party take the trouble to remove the rear trim yourself and as Robert says guide them a little on removal and refitting the screen. I have seen so much trim damaged by body shops just storing it on top of each other and with leather trim it can create permanent impressions. For sure if you are looking at screen and sunroof frame removal for a paint job you are going to have to dig deep into the funds. Look on the brighter side though... it is less for the taxman to take once we're gone.......  | ||
| michael vass Grand Master Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 544 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi Trevor, be careful of the wires passing through the rubber, they are Very delicate OK Mike |
