| Author | Message | ||
     Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 111 Registered: 3-2018 |
Hi Just surfing around and found this. I think its written about 2006 - but its a good guide starter piece i think. http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/rolls_info.php | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1191 Registered: 2-2013 |
Glen without reading the entire article I need to ponce. He is wrong. A full repaint for a Rolls Royce or Bentley will cost you $40,000 In 1998 I was lucky enough to get trained by a top paint shop. My belief is that a Rolls Royce needs nothing less than a mirror finish with no orange peel and no blemishes. Also, what you don't need is a mirror finish on top of bad panel repair and you don't need a good panel repair on a car that has not been properly rust proofed after the rust has been removed. And the last thing you need is a panel and paint shop where the removal of the cars bright work etc is performed by apprentices. Here is a little tale on the advantages of having apprentices doing even the simple task of stripping the old paint off. In a capital city a chap puts his Ferrari in for a complete respray. Apprentice is put to work with paint stripper. Ferrari is nicely masked up with masking tape and correct panel shop brown paper from professional roll. Apprentice applies paint stripper nice and thick and apprentice goes home. Apprentice comes back to work in morning and commences to remove paint right down to bare metal. However, sooner or later somebody discovers that the paint stripper has not only done an excellent job removing the old paint, but had gone on a seek and destroy mission etching beautifully all the glass work. This is not heresay as I was the legal eagle on the lawsuit that followed who took statements from lecturers teaching panel beaters and spray painters their theory in the negligence case that followed seeking the $16,000 grand cost of all the glass. That was in 1988.(can you imagine the reaction of the manager of the shop when he first observed the marvellous way the paint stripper modified all the glasswork! Ho ho ho indeedy) In 1998 the panel shop where I gained my training would not paint any car for under $15,000. My bet is then they would have asked for $30,000. So if I was a zillionaire when that article was written and somebody quoted me $10,OOO to repaint a RR/B if I had any knowledge of the panel and paint trade I would walk away laughing. Repainting any car properly is a blood sport, and repainting any RR/B to high standard is a journey straight into the heart of darkness. So just ignore the $10,000 figure in the article because that is BS then and Super BS now. The article is post 2000. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Prolific User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 255 Registered: 5-2016 |
12 months ago I had a bare metal, window out respray done on my Silver Shadow 11. The front, back and side window seals were renewed along with the door, trunk/boot and hood/bonnet seals. Following the removal of all the old paint a couple of wheel arch sections were cut out where minor areas of rust were discovered and new sections were welded in, it then had a coat of etching primer followed by undercoat primer and then a top coat and then lacquer coat. I left the car with them and the job took approx. 4 months as they didn't concentrate on it full time. The finished product looks great and there are no signs of any rust appearing so far. The total cost came to approx. €5000 including all the replacement parts. Admittedly I knew the people in the paint shop and the job was done as a kind of favour. There were a few niggly problems afterwards where the "apprentices" didn't reinstall everything exactly as they should and I'm still missing a couple of small items like the rear view mirror support bracket and a couple of headlamp seals but I can source those parts in due course. The guys at the paint shop are more used to doing crash repairs on modern cars and I think the RR job turned out to be a bigger task than they had envisaged but overall I'm very satisfied with the quality of their workmanship and extremely happy about the cost. They did say, however that they wouldn't be inclined to take on a similar project for the foreseeable future, if ever. | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1193 Registered: 2-2013 |
Ha ha Larry I bet they never want another one! Tell you what else I bet today they would not paint a RR/B for me for 5 thousand euro if I shipped the bugger over there. | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 1019 Registered: 4-2012 |
Remember also that when these cars were made that ten plus coats of paint were applied as the norm, you don't get that nowadays. Richard | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Prolific User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 256 Registered: 5-2016 |
Very true Richard, the paint shop hadn't anticipated the difficulty involved in removing the old paint. My car is nutmeg brown and I think that's an I.C.I manufactured acrylic paint. They began the removal using sanders but soon realised that their sanders were clogging and going through huge quantities of sandpaper. Next they used acid and that took numerous applications to eventually get to the bare metal. Removing the old paint was the most laborious part of the job. The new colour is exactly the same as the old and looks fantastic with a great sheen. The only difference is that there are no pinstripes on the new finish, that's something I plan to get done when I can locate a suitable artist wherever he or she may be hiding. | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1195 Registered: 2-2013 |
Larry bikers and rodhodders usually know good pinstrippers and don't be surprised if its a girl. Also, bikers and hotrodders have a deep appreciation for fine machinery which most panel and paint shops don't because they exist to make a buck and to be brutally honest its no walk in the park owning a panel/paint or working in one. It's what is called down under hard yakka (hard work) Panel and Paint work done properly even at half RR/B standard is extremely labour intensive and has inherent deadly dangers.ie two pack paints contain cyanide and require a full space suit, spray booth and dedicated breathing supply unless you want to poison your neighbours and yourself. On top of all that the trade has changed dramatically over the last few decades with late model cars where dented panels are thrown away and a new panel fitted. Most good craftsmen are dead or retired although there are cottage industries where the use of the English Wheel can be learned and the chaps that master that caper charge mega bucks for their work. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Prolific User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 257 Registered: 5-2016 |
Thanks Vlad, My brother is a biker with a collection of Ducatis. He may know someone who could do the pinstriping work, I'll ask him. | ||
| Steve Emmott New User Username: steve_e Post Number: 6 Registered: 11-2018 |
I think Glen's find is a reasonable starter for a first time buyer to have read......well even enough to probably put them off completely buying one. Nothing beats finding a local member/RR owner though and ask them to view the car with you as many owners soon learn the pitfalls and expensive repair jobs needed to keep the older cars in good shape. I can't agree more though with Vladimir and Larry even after a decent paint job the rebuild of all the items back on the car is where I don't think I could trust any paint shop to do it diligently and soon the items they miss or damage doing the rebuild may not immediately be apparent. Only way for me was to do it myself including screen removals wheel arch liners etc etc. Apart from the actual paint application itself which had to be done in a proper booth I did the prep and rebuild myself. Fortunately I had no rust or panel damage prior just slight fading as I had the car in South France for 15 years and 40 years of polishing had seen some areas where primer was showing through. I also opted not to have the process with base coat and laquer as I have seen so many after OE manufacture paint jobs where the laquer after a few years starts deteriorating so I had mine specifically done in 2Pack gloss only. I don't intend to have the coach lines put back although a feature back in the 70's they don't enhance the car IMHO and again seen so many poorly following the bodylines. Opting to also fit an everflex roof did save a lot of paintwork required. For the observant ones I adapted a wraith rear finisher that completely wraps around the rear vinyl and lower rear screen rubber so any future paintwork won't need the rear screen removed. Judge yourself the paintwork quality by the reflections in the paint      Moderator Input: Steve, I have amended the layout of your post to make it easier to read by using the ENTER key twice between paragraphs and between each IMAGE command. I trust you will not mind my doing this. David | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 126 Registered: 3-2018 |
Its beautiful Steve | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Prolific User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 260 Registered: 5-2016 |
That's absolutely stunning Steve. What brand polish did you use? | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 78 Registered: 11-2017 |
That's a 2 stage (base coat + clear coat) which will keep it's luster for a long time and would rarely need to be "polished" if kept indoors and wiped down regularly. The original paint was single stage. | ||
| Steve Emmott New User Username: steve_e Post Number: 7 Registered: 11-2018 |
Robert I have had it done in 2 pack waterbased gloss not base coat and laquer as I said I have seen so many cars while in France and the UK where laquer has been milky faded or peeling when done by some bodyshops. I know it will not last with polishing as well as base coat/laquered but if I get 10 to 20 years from it before it starts to wear through again I can live with that. Very fine 'faracela' after paint and 'raceglaze' polish which is carbanula wax...not sure my spelling is correct on both these but too early and wet here in UK to go into the garage. Thanks David I will know what to do for next time. As you can see I have sorted how to do pictures and learnt to put a space there between as they went all across the screen if I didn't. What a great site and so much help to get me going from David |
