| Author | Message | ||
     Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 217 Registered: 11-2016 |
Hi Guys I am getting a serious drip from the rear crank seal on SRH 17968. I will be pulling the gearbox and replacing the seal, which I think is actually an o-ring, and following the manual to do this. I was just wondering if anyone has been through this and has any pointers that might make for lighter work. Thanks as always. | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1669 Registered: 5-2015 |
My car is 17668 and does not has a seal as such. it has a scroll seal which is a thread which flings the oil back in to the engine, these don't wear. oil leaking from the scroll usually means blocked engine breather. Or red oil is leaking from the torque convertor seal | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1731 Registered: 9-2004 |
My car has always had a few drips after a run when I first had the car, cleaned the flame trap with no improvement so I then ran the oil level slightly below the full mark on the dip stick and all ok since. Often thought if it was possible for the oil thrower to be loose on the crank? | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 218 Registered: 11-2016 |
Thanks Guys. Whilst researching my options, I read that Flying Spares say: Up until 1979 the oil in the sump was retained by a thrower around the front and rear of the crankshaft. These throwers typically become "sludged" up allowing oil to bypass the thrower. On the later B Series engines (from VIN 39628 approx) an oil seal was fitted to the front and rear crank covers. We have developed a kit UE7488KIT that allows the later type seal to be fitted to earlier engines. So my options are: 1. Check flame trap! - I am suspicious that I am all of a sudden getting a leak from both the front and back, so you bothy may be right in that it might be crankcase pressure. Where is the flame trap?(sorry just being lazy not looking it up) If the flame trap is OK, then: 2. Remove the thrower and clean it of the sludge? Will this work, has anyone had experience of this? 3. Buy the upgrade kit from Flying Spares (over £500!!) Hmmm still thinking - any suggestions would be welcome. Ta | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 219 Registered: 11-2016 |
Found where the flame trap is! | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1732 Registered: 9-2004 |
The flame trap is located in the breather pipe that is attached to the side of the oil filler housing. This may help. PIX showing no 21.  | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 220 Registered: 11-2016 |
Excellent, thank you Patrick. | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 913 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi Patrick I think you should change or clean the filter at the flame trap de sludge the sump and keep your oil level lower than the max mark as Patrick L suggested, I have also done this operation a couple of years ago, and this is the way it was designed to operate. Richard. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Experienced User Username: wraithman Post Number: 16 Registered: 11-2017 |
If you're experiencing drops of red fluid at the front of the gearbox it will likely be ATF. The gearbox will fill up with ATF after a run due to drainback of the torque converter and any seals that are old may weep as well. The TC holds alot of fluid. The front gearbox seal is an easy fix. Pull the front pump, new seal and off you go. The front leak is quite common as well as the tailpiece. | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 221 Registered: 11-2016 |
Thank you everybody. Robert(s!)- Definitely engine oil. Richard and Patrick, I will follow your advice thanks. | ||
| gordon le feuvre Prolific User Username: triumph Post Number: 227 Registered: 7-2012 |
The scroll on Cloud/ Shadow always had a drip of oil because once the crank had stopped turning, any oil in the area of scroll was able just to drip. Had an owner that used to reverse car out of garage (1973 model) and use parquet flooring as table tennis top to play with his children. As one would, he put on white sports trousers to play and consequently got spots of oil from rear crank seal on his knees. Had all sorts of issues with Crewe and ultimately the fix was a lip seal kit as the scroll ALWAYS leaves a small drip when engine stopped. The breather is supposed to be cleaned on a "C"/ 24,000 mile service which is every 2 years. Most were not!! | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1735 Registered: 9-2004 |
Strange that RR never lowered the dip stick level with an update. Not as though the sump had a limited amount of oil!. maybe they had reservations with the oil pump gear drive? When I park up as well I place a jack under the rear tow bar and lift the rear slightly due to the weight of the LPG tank, any oil in the scroll runs forward back to the sump, will test on a full sump. Some cars do look low on the rear when parked when the pressure has lowered in the rams. Engine oil leak from the rear could be worse then maybe. | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 223 Registered: 11-2016 |
Followed Richard (gracias amigo) and Patrick's advice - problem solved. Thank you again to our Gurus. | ||
| Maxwell Heazlewood Prolific User Username: tasbent Post Number: 143 Registered: 9-2017 |
You could always fit a little incontinence bag, similar to what they use for horses  | ||
| Alan Dibley Prolific User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 122 Registered: 10-2009 |
"You could always fit a little incontinence bag, similar to what they use for horses" That would'nt be Sir Henry's solution, I'm sure. Alan D. | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 224 Registered: 11-2016 |
A couple of questions on this matter please. Are the scroll seals accessible by taking the sump pan off? Maybe to just blow them through with some compressed air. Has anyone done this? And if they are, to remove the sump, can I just remove the crossmember, remove and replace the sump, then replace the crossmember? Thanks | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1741 Registered: 9-2004 |
Patrick, Yes the scroll can be removed with the sump off. The sub frame could be dropped but just maybe the engine could be lifted enough to remove the sump. However as for blowing out the scrolls IMO it would be to late as the carbon build up within the scrolls would point to a clapped out engine. I have wondered in a perfect world without the tappet cover, rocker covers sealed etc, not letting air into the crank case what the crank case depression should be as I believe this may be the real cause. One day when time permits I may run the level on the full mark and due some checks and tests. Unless someone has already done the above. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1743 Registered: 9-2004 |
And not forgetting the removal of the auto box, torque converter for removal of the scroll. | ||
| gordon le feuvre Prolific User Username: triumph Post Number: 228 Registered: 7-2012 |
Section e5 of the shadow w/shop manual intimates that sump can be removed without dropping subframe (although I have never done it this way) but as Patrick says to remove scroll, auto box/convertor and plate must be removed as well. it is doable! | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 225 Registered: 11-2016 |
I was just wondering if the scroll(s) can be accessed to be cleaned by dropping the sump only. Can they be reached from below to be blown out with some carb cleaner and an air gun? Does anyone have any pics of the engine from below with the sump off? Asking the impossible again......! Ta  | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1745 Registered: 9-2004 |
Patrick, with the sump removed to gain access to the scroll with a blow gun is impossible due to the oil flinger situated at the rear of the crankshaft covering the scroll housing. Tother side is the flexi plate adaptor bolted to the crankshaft covering the scroll. Better to run a lower oil level in the sump IMO. Still think a low crank case depression may have some bearing on the prob. Strange that the front crank type seal seems to always be ok. |
