| Author | Message | ||
     Robert Howlett Prolific User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 174 Registered: 9-2010 |
Hi guys To some of the more technical people this might sound a silly question. Over the past 4 weeks I've had the radiator core replaced and header tank fixed of all leaks. She now runs 15C degrease cooler now from 110c to 85 to 90 on a hot day. Have to say that is very reassuring on a hot summer day. I had to replace the front aircon pulley bearing as it was rumbling like a stuffed wheel bearing. "What a mission to get that off",40 plus years was completely rusted on and completely ruined a pulley kit, but she is quiet as a Church mouse now. Now I did a stupid thing, while the radiator was out I power washed the front of the motor making sure not to touch anything electrical only the balancer and water pump to remove 40 years of grease nothing else was cleaned as I'm not big fan of water and electrics. However since putting it back together she runs "lumpy" on idle which never happened before, anything above that she runs great no pinging or noise and good power. I haven't tuned the car since 2008. I'm running 98 RON and installed the Flying Spares electronic ignition 2008 and started the car and its been fine ever since. Now I guess its time to tune the engine which I have never done. I have read that the timing need to be 5 degrees BTDC and the Dwell angle 26 to 28 degrees at 800 RPM . To the cut story short I was told that because its electronic ignition I don't have to fiddle with the dwell angle as there are no points no need to touch. Your view on this will greatly be appreciated Cheers Rob  | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1887 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Rob You are correct - the dwell angle is set by the electronics and you do not need to adjust it. In fact there is no way of adjusting it. On some modern units it can be adjusted by re-chipping but this would not be the case in the modules used on our cars. The only thing you need to do is set the timing at 5 degrees BTDC ("series 1" cars). | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1703 Registered: 9-2004 |
Another case of having a non Standard OEM assemblies. Setting the dwell on a RR with the correct breakerless system allows other important tests. The dwell is set to 33-39 degrees. Goodness knows what cars would be running around with engine faults without any dwell being checked and adjusted. Maybe some experts who have fitted Mallory types etc can inform us of there type of data and how it is checked. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1976 Registered: 6-2006 |
If it was running fine before the pressure washing then I doubt that ignition tuning is the problem. Has it had time to dry out completely. Did any HT leads got knocked off or wet. Could it just be old fuel or a bad lot of fuel? Has it had plugs? Cooler running temperatures will foul old plugs more easily. If the mixtures were done at 110c it may be a tiny bit out now. None of the vacuum pipes have been disturbed or cracked have they. Maybe the one going down to the air filter blend flap if you have one. Another thing that is very often forgotten is distributor lubrication. Just because the pickup needs no maintenance people forget that there are moving parts that need lubrication. There's always something! LOL. | ||
| Mark Aldridge Grand Master Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 491 Registered: 10-2008 |
Worth checking the ignition leads into the distributor cap. last summer I moved the leads when lubricating the distributor,unaware that the lead end had corroded on one lead, hidden by the rubber boot. Intermittent misfire took nearly 100 miles of painful driving to find and 5 minutes to cure. Worth checking if misfire develops after working under the bonnet Mark | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1704 Registered: 9-2004 |
Without a tune in the first instant to show up the fault. It would be interesting to know what the hydro carbons are doing also the c/o. Shows up a restricted air filter, plugs etc, coil, carb air leak etc, crank case flame trap. engine timing and advance curve incorrect, and more. | ||
| Robert Howlett Prolific User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 175 Registered: 9-2010 |
Many thanks for the advice .I will check all those items mentioned and get back to let you know how it all goes. cheers rob | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 683 Registered: 11-2015 |
Robert, Rough idle but fine running is usually ignition or fuel. Second thing I do is add a little choke while the engine is running and see if the idle smooths out. If it idles better, your engine has a lean miss. If it still idles rough it's likely ignition related. If you do find yourself setting the timing raise the RPM to 2k or so and see if the timing actually advances. | ||
| Robert Howlett Prolific User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 176 Registered: 9-2010 |
Hi Folks Yeah I found the problem, it was a intermittent spark plug lead on A bank number 3.I bought a new distributer cap and rotor button which fits much better than the Valiant V8 set up that I had before which was supposed to be the same, it really isn't the old cap moved 1/4 of an inch in both directions making tuning very difficult. This new cap is tight fitting and no movement and timing was a dream. Yeah the lead was intermittent at idle and 900 RPM is fine WTF anyway I installed a little hotter plug to stop sooting up as she doesn't get many long runs now days. Many thanks for the information you guys supplied and I tried all of them Cheers Rob | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 706 Registered: 11-2015 |
Robert, First off great to hear a success, it's always nice to solve a car problem cold and get it purring away nicely. But do tell us more about the Valient cap and rotor. Is that a "substitute". | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 707 Registered: 11-2015 |
Robert, The best solution to reduce sooting is to drive the car longer distances at higher speeds. The main benefit of this technique is,..you get to drive your Rolls Royce! A couple techniques I use are volunteering the car for everything and making sure it's always in a better state of tune than the other cars. Your mate needs to buy a radiator for a dodge dart, just say "sure, I'll be over in ten" But resist the method of loaning the car to people. While people are quite happy to throw miles on your car, they are just people and people are also pretty good at ignoring noises and bumping into things. Trusted son or daughter maybe? Thinking about it, maybe plugs are best | ||
| Robert Howlett Prolific User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 177 Registered: 9-2010 |
Hi Ross yes the Valiant V8 cap was a substitute part as was the rotor button and points till I changed the points to electronic type. It was 1968 to 1970 if memory servers me. I posted a thread on here along with other members on substitute caps and other bits and pieces . Have to admit it was so long ago and the loss of brain cells over the years can't be sure of anything nowadays. cheers | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 708 Registered: 11-2015 |
Points you say. Could you post a picture of the points? I have been using points from a triumph stag I think. | ||
| Robert Howlett Prolific User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 178 Registered: 9-2010 |
Hi Ross sure thing.     I rummaged through an old toolbox and found them. cheers |
