| Author | Message | ||
     William H. Trovinger II Grand Master Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 152 Registered: 8-2003 |
Hope someone can help me with this problem. Every 6 months or so the eccentric adjuster seems to go out of position and I have stop lamps only when the pedal is all the way to the floor. Has anyone else had this problem? I adjust the screw and lamps work fine again. Is it possible I am doing something wrong or is there another way to deal with this one more time and I may weld them together  . I will try and up load diagram of what I am talking about. Thanks is advance, Bill ('76 SSI SRE23726)  | ||
| Bill Coburn Grand Master Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 243 Registered: 4-2003 |
Bill I would have a look at the internals of the switch (6 in your diagram). It consists of a brass plunger that is pushed through a pair of contacts. The latter as I recall are 'multileaved' and burn they also are made of copper/brass. The individual 'leaves' break off and you lose contact. The brass push rod also gets fairly pitted with the arcing. Otherwise the switch is remarkably reliable. Parts are still available. | ||
| William H. Trovinger II Grand Master Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 153 Registered: 8-2003 |
Bill, Thanks for the input. Will recheck switch however, last two time I did the switch was working OK. Regards, Bill | ||
| William H. Trovinger II Prolific User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 211 Registered: 8-2003 |
Bill; I have gotten around to this problem today (before oil mistake) and have confirmed the problem is within the switch. Is a switch replacement availabe? Could not find one listed at Intorcar and as Holiday here could not call Albers, or can the switch be repaired? Thanks, Bill | ||
| William H. Trovinger II Prolific User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 215 Registered: 8-2003 |
Bill; Took your advise and this weekend took the switch out and apart. You where correct, both the plunger and contacts where burned and some corrosion. Clean all the brass and now they are work great. Thank you, for your advice. Best regards, Bill T. | ||
| Bill Coburn Grand Master Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 439 Registered: 4-2003 |
Well now you are a specialist on switches. You just have to get a grip of that oil changing and you will be the man!! I was intrigued by the wire through the head of the filter cannister bolt. That has to be a previous owner paranoia! It is quite unnecessary. By the time the bolt unscrewed to the point of falling out the bowl would have been pushed off its seat by the oil pressure the squirting oil would be all over the exhaust manifold, there would be a cloud of smoke from every oriface on the front of the car and you would be wondering where you could do some quick laundering! The bolt as you know has a very long thread and is done up to 12 ft lbs.Having seen a filter head snapped open by over tightening I tended to leave them too loose and wondered why I had that persistant drip. Now I use a tension wrench. | ||
| William H. Trovinger II Prolific User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 216 Registered: 8-2003 |
Bill; Thank you for the advice on the wire. It will be gone with the next oil change. You should have seen the first time I changed the oil years ago and did not want to detach the other end of the wire, 1/8 turns for about 4 hours to get the bolt off only to discover that the canister could not clear without detaching. Well we live and learn. Kindest regards, Bill T. | ||
| Bill Coburn Grand Master Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 440 Registered: 4-2003 |
Er, I hope you are changing your oil and filter at least every 6 months | ||
| William H. Trovinger II Prolific User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 218 Registered: 8-2003 |
No, Bill I have been changing 5 and 7 months. Due to weather here, I change oil beginning of June and November even though car does not get more that 2,000 during the summer and 500 during the winter. Because, I also change weight oil, I have been running 20W-50 during summer months and 5W-30 during winter. As mine has more than 100K on it I will not attempt going to the synthetic. Best regards, Bill | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 795 Registered: 4-2003 |
Bill T, I changed to 5W50 full-synthertic Mobil 1 at over 130,000 miles on my Turbo R a few years ago. I can assure you that it's worthwhile. There was no drawback, and I have never heard a tappet on a cold start since. The engine also feels and sounds warmed up instantly. I really believe that wear, especially when warming or restarting, must be at a greatly reduced rate, and that's when most wear occurs. Oil consumption didn't change: it's still negligible. The successes of modern synthetics are a far cry from the bad experiences I had with early synthetics: they burned and leaked. 5W50 is ideal year-round anywhere on the planet, but I may try 0W40 for fun when my present supply runs out. RT. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 470 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Richard, I suspect Bill's concerns are not related to the quality of the synthetic oil but to the reported tendency for oil leaks to occur after the changeover due to the synthetic oil dissolving the "leak-preventative" gunk from conventional oil. |
