| Author | Message | ||
     Rod Hebblewhite Yet to post message Username: velvet_green Post Number: 1 Registered: 7-2017 |
Hi, this is my first post so I would like to say hello to everyone on the forum. I have been following the RROCA since I bought my 1972 Bentley T a few years ago. Sadly it has been languishing in the garage for a while now and in an effort to get it back on the road I need to do a few jobs. One of those jobs is to realign the passenger doors. Due to shoddy repair work in the past nothing lined up with anything else, Front door was well out of line on the wing edge and sill. This may be have been due to a poorly fitted wing repair panel and door sill. Both now cut out and awaiting replacement. Okay, up to now I have adjusted the front door to sit square in the frame and line up with both wing and door sill, but the back door needs to come out at the top, it sits almost a 1/4" further in than the front door. Now this might be down to poor alignment or it may be down to accident damage. Before I pull the door off and delve deeper is there any way of adjusting the top hinge. I should point out that the B pillar hole that the hinge passes through is rippled on the inner edge indicating that it has probably taken a hefty whack at some point. | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 774 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi Rod Welcome!!! I have a 1074 Silver Shadow SRH 19529 if you need any measurements just ask, there might also be someone in the forum that lives close to you that might be of some assistance to you, god luck. Richard. | ||
| Rod Hebblewhite New User Username: velvet_green Post Number: 2 Registered: 7-2017 |
Thanks Richard, I will keep your kind offer in mind. Rod. | ||
| gordon le feuvre Prolific User Username: triumph Post Number: 196 Registered: 7-2012 |
It is worth reading the WHOLE workshop manual, end to end. it is amazing just how much info. you will glean. There is a great deal of information in each section. The door base should be set up first, then the upper frame, every one used to "tweak" the upper frames with knee/brut force to get wind noise to acceptable level. This included the factory guys on test! A good tip is to wipe a little petroleum jelly on the forward upper corner/edge of the rear door seal to stop it rolling over as door closed. later cars had strip of non slip material on seal for this purpose. THE REASON I MENTION THIS IS THAT IF SEAL ROOLS OVER, IT CAN MAKE DOOR HARD TO CLOSE, WHEN AT POINT OF LATCHING | ||
| George Taylor New User Username: jocksrr Post Number: 5 Registered: 3-2018 |
Hi,how to access driver door panel to check door lock and window master controls }1979 shadow 11 | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Prolific User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 203 Registered: 5-2016 |
Hi George, I've just done that job, removing door card is easy. Armrest slides upwards is you lift the latch at its underside, then 2 screws holding the plastic slider can be removed once armrest is out of the way. Door opening handle chrome surround and window lift switches chrome surround & door lock solenoid switch chrome surround can be accessed by lifting out their centre plates to expose 2 screws under each, just unscrew these and the 3 switch surrounds lift off. Door card is held onto door by metal clips that can be pried out with a blunt tool. Don't bend the door card too much as it has a plywood underside that could crack or split if over flexed. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 51 Registered: 11-2017 |
The driver door panel, and others come off easily and well documented in the manuals. Panel cards and last the wood door cap. I took everything out of my doors during the restoration and replaced every rubber seal and adjusted the window frame to body fitment. If the plastic moisture barrier does not re-adhere to the door door, 3M makes a butyl rubber chalk (08578) in 12" strips for this purpose. | ||
| Al Goldstone New User Username: corveight Post Number: 4 Registered: 2-2017 |
There are shims that go between the door shell and hinge to adjust the in and out. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Prolific User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 204 Registered: 5-2016 |
Thanks for the advice regarding the butyl rubber Robert. I got some at my local hardware store, it's also used for joints in radon barrier material. I cut out new plastic moisture barrier sheets and the butyl adhesive strips are very forgiving if one needs to remove an reattach the sheets as I did when I had to play around with the central locking solenoids. |
