| Author | Message | ||
     Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 11 Registered: 1-2008 |
First off my thanks go to John Kilkenny for his diagram of the headlight circuit on the Shadow (Tee-One Topics Issue 33, Page 486). Good on ya, Cobber (that's the correct usage, isn't it?). From his simplified diagram I became aware that Rolls Royce didn't always get it right first time - sometimes not even the second, third or fourth! Careful perusal of the circuitry shows that the full amperage for the headlights, both dip and main beam, is carried by the floor-mounted dipswitch! That's some heavy duty switch - One hopes! Since I upgraded  my headlights the current it carries is now ...er ... somewhat higher and trips the thermal cutout thus activating the safety relay. Result: No main beam lights. Now I'm a 'funny bugger'. I like to see where I'm going - even on otherwise unlit roads. To this end I've sourced and fitted a pair of 55 watt driving lamps. Oh, all right: I was offered them for GBP£3, brand new, unused, still in the original box and including bulbs to which I thought "Why not?". But ... with the current 100 watt main beams alone being borderline it was obvious that adding these lights would just cause the thermal cutout to trip even faster. Not exactly what one wants when barreling down twisty roads at night, eh? Obviously I needed to switch the lights via a relay so I got 2; one per side (30 amp rating to allow a decent overhead), mounted each on the inner wing top and wired them to switch one main beam and one driving lamp per side. But: Where do I get the amperage from? There's no wiring of that calibre anywhere obvious under the bonnet other than the direct feed from the alternator. I was loath to attach any leads there so I needed to rethink the situation. Then it came to me. The starter motor. That needs a hefty current feed. No sooner thought than done. Or rather the following day as the idea didn't come to me until after 10:00 pm. I searched my workshop drawers and came up with several metres of heavy duty (40 amp) cable, a couple of largish connectors and Hey Presto, Robert's your parent's sibling: All the lights work perfectly and the dipswitch now only carries a few hundred millamps when the main beams or on  Make of this what you will. | ||
| John Kilkenny Frequent User Username: john_kilkenny Post Number: 59 Registered: 6-2005 |
Hello Jan, It's good to see Bill's Tee One Notes being used and you are doing the right thing to use relays for your additional driving lights. However I think you are mis-interpreting the Shadow's safety circuit. It's purpose is to maintain some lighting if Fuse 4 should blow due to an overload in the headlight circuit. For highbeam operation via Fuse 4, the Safety Relay will be energised, thus removing the Thermal Cutout from the circuit, and headlight current will go through the Dip Switch (as you point out) to both inner and outer headlights. If Fuse 4 should blow the Safety Relay is de-energised, allowing current to at least one outer headlight filament via the Thermal Cutout. If an overload condition should still exist (possible but not likely), after a few seconds the thermal cutout will operate and then cycle on and off. For low beam operation the Safety Relay will not be energised but in the unlikely event of an overload, the overload protection will function in the same way. If you use the highbeam output from the dip switch to energise your two new relays for the highbeam and driving lights, Fuse 4 will no longer control the high filament current and will not blow if an overload occurs and so will not make a circuit through the thermal cutout. TO MAINTAIN THE SAFETY FUNCTION OF THE HEADLIGHTS SYSTEM IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU HAVE A SEPARATE FUSE ON THE OUTPUT CONTACT OF EACH NEW RELAY. The safety circuit will function as before for lowbeam operation. I know I shouldn't ask this question but why did you not just put an additional switch, relay and fuse for the two new driving lights. And is your new arrangement legal ? John | ||
| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 12 Registered: 1-2008 |
John: As you point out Fuse 4 no longer carries any appreciable current and should never blow. I did not mention inline fusing for each main beam or driving lamp as it is so obvious I thought it wasn't necesary to do so. Legal? Yes and no. The 100 watt mainbeam Xenon bulbs aren't but they passed the annual roadworthiness examination (known in Blighty as the MOT) without any awkward questions  As for the driving lamps they are (currently) perfectly legal as there are few rules about the fitting and useage thereof. 1) A maximum wattage of 55 per lamp 2) They MUST be used only with the main beams 3) They must not dazzle other road users 4) An override switch may be used as long as rule 3 is in operation 5) There is no rule 5. That's it! So long as rule 3 is abided by you can put them anywhere on the vehicle - even on the roof if you're so minded. (I mounted mine on the bumper just inboard of the overriders) As for the fail-safe operation of the dip beams: I think I'd notice if my main and driving lamps failed down some dark back road | ||
| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 13 Registered: 1-2008 |
Ps. I should have mentioned ... When I upgraded the headlights I junked the existing feeble sealed beam units (they weren't even halogens!) and got a set off a 3-series BMW. These were then modified to fit and I installed 'standard' single filament Xenon bulbs to each: 45 watt for the outer dip beam only and 100 watt for the inner main beam. Because the headlight pods are fairly shallow I also could not fit the original BMW rear seals and had to make up a set to fit. They are just as water tight. I even took the opportunity to derust the whole headlight assemblies and then paint them with Hammerite Smooth to prevent reoccurence of corrosion - for a while at least. Now I can see where I'm going under almost any circumstances. Works for me | ||
| John Kilkenny Frequent User Username: john_kilkenny Post Number: 60 Registered: 6-2005 |
Fair enough. The reason I mentioned the two fuses rather than a common one is that you no longer have the fail safe system on high beam and should a fuse blow you wouldn't want to be on a twisty country road at 120 kph on a dark stormy night.  | ||
| david hunt Unregistered guest Posted From: 208.115.206.180 |
What year 3 series bmw did the lights come off of, and what modifications were needed??? I want to put real lights on my car ('69 dhc), as the newer sealed beams are not so good. I have been searching for some type of light that would fit the car and look better. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 20 Registered: 1-2008 |
I bought the complete headlight units off eBay (UK) so I don't recall the exact year. As far as I was concerned they're 5 & 1/4 inch units so that's good enough fer me! The mods consisted of removing the existing mountings, carefully, with an angle grinder and junking the rear sealing caps which were too deep to fit in my headlamp pods. I then laid up a ring of clear sealing mastic around the rear extensions and allowed it a couple of days to cure before I pushed on home-made 'cups' to fit. (I used the clear mastic because it has a much better modulus of elasticity than any other type. You may prefer some kind of self-adhesive foam). To fit them to the car I applied a strip of self adhesive 'draught strip' to the back of the rim and held each in place as I replaced the chrome retaining ring. Alignment was by guesstimate but they nevertheless passed the MOT without question. | ||
| Mark Aldridge Unregistered guest Posted From: 86.130.18.197 |
I use inner and outer units supplied for Triumph Stag on my 1976 Shadow.These are available in the UK from Triumph specialists new.Inners are H1 halogen and outers H4.By operating a changeover relay on each outer triggered by the inner,The outers switch to mainbeam also.Phillips Vision bulbs are very effective. Mark Aldridge (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 781 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi David, Conversion kits you need are on following links: High/Low beam conversion kit: Headlamp Conversion Kits Driving light kit: Driving Light Conversion Kits (Message edited by david_gore on 28 February 2008) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 782 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi David, will have to do a series of posts to complete message thanks to technical problems. You can solve your problem by retro-fitting semi sealed beam headlamp units which then allow you to use high-intensity Halogen bulbs provided you fit a relay and heavy duty feed cable from the main positive lead on the starter motor to the relay for the high beam circuit. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 783 Registered: 4-2003 |
The existing wiring should be capable of handling the current draw of Xenon bulbs however the blue tinge is definitely not consistent with the Halogen lights available as a factory fitted option for the Shadow I - I do not know if Halogen bulbs were standard on the Shadow II and would appreciate more information from someone more knowledgeable than I. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 784 Registered: 4-2003 |
The semi-sealed replacements are available from AutoOne/Rare Spares outlets in Australia: http://www.rarespares.net.au/Parts-Accessories.aspx Just enter Product Code: 72040 for 7” units, 72050 for 5.75” high/low beam units and 72060 for 5.75” driving lights in the relevant box and all will be revealed. You will probably have to replace the sealed beam high/low beam and driving light connectors with "H4" and "H1" connectors to suit the respective Halogen/Xenon bulbs. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 785 Registered: 4-2003 |
OOOOPS - missed some important advice - You should include an accessible in-line fuse in the new power feed for safety and make sure it is properly routed/protected to avoid chafing the insulation thus causing a short-circuit.. | ||
| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 21 Registered: 1-2008 |
Re the 'blue tinge': There are xenon bulbs available that give out a pure white light. I know; I've fitted them to my Shadow and my previous Grand Cherokee. | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 130 Registered: 6-2006 |
I haven't tried these, but anybody that fancies 'serious' lighting might be interested. ( at a cost! ) HID Lights Link: UK Conversion Kit Supplier (Message edited by david_gore on 29 February 2008) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 786 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Jan, Further to the Xenon bulbs; I have heard reports that they have a much shorter life than Halogen bulbs. What life have you had from your bulbs so far? Regards David (Message edited by david_gore on 29 February 2008) | ||
| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 22 Registered: 1-2008 |
Hi, David. Sorry about the delay in responding but I've been busy with 'other things' I can't really comment on xenon bulb longevity as I only fitted them about 6 or 7 months ago. So far, so good! Unfortunately the one fitted to my right hand fog light was broken in a minor shunt back in October and, obviously, had to be replaced. By considerable good luck - and excellent Rolls Royce build quality - that was the only damage to The Old Girl. The Kraut in the Audi didn't come off so lightly  Serves him right for trying to 'U' turn directly in front of me! |
