| Author | Message | ||
     David Michael Leedy Experienced User Username: dleedy Post Number: 32 Registered: 11-2011 |
Hello Folks, Once again my Shadow is giving me some annoyance...Fist I am happy to report that my 75 Silver Shadow daily driver has had it's transmission leak resolved with a new pan gasket and filters...On that note, however, the car still shakes a bit at idle and at stop lights....Although an optional feature in newer cars is a messaging seat...I don't think that was offered in '75....Other thing driving me a bit bananas is the "coolant" warning light..When you start the car, the brake light warning and coolant lights light, and eventually the brake warnings dissipate, but lately, it continues to stay on...I checked the the coolant in the engine and it is filled and when you do get moving, the light goes off....As soon as you slow down for a yellow or red light, there it is again....Any suggestions or have others experienced same and if so, what to do? | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Prolific User Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 166 Registered: 4-2015 |
My money, or rather what little is left, would say that the problem is with the sender unit. Test accordingly. | ||
| Mark Herbstreit Prolific User Username: mark_herbstreit Post Number: 146 Registered: 5-2005 |
Loose baffle moving and shorting in the header tank? | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1855 Registered: 6-2009 |
I can't say that I definitively know what is causing your coolant light to illuminate, but a very frequent problem is that components in the low coolant amplifier have gone (or are going) bad and it needs to be refurbished. See the article I wrote about this as part of your deliberations. Brian | ||
| John Kilkenny Prolific User Username: john_kilkenny Post Number: 232 Registered: 6-2005 |
1. The car should not shake at idle. Idle revs and/or timing may need adjustment. 2. Brake warning lights should go out withing two or three seconds after starting. Any longer and the hydraulic system should be checked. 3. If the coolant light comes on when stopping or changing direction it is usually due to water movement. Add some more coolant and see if it makes a difference. | ||
| Lungmuss Unregistered guest Posted From: 92.7.13.233 |
Hello David, I had a similar problem on a RR Silver Spirit with undue vibration when standing. Tried all the usual, new plugs, ignition leads, timing, even petrol filters with no success. A friend then suggested check the distributor cap as it was probably the original. So before buying a new one I had a look at it and noticed a darkish discolouration around the inside which when scraped off revealed a clean surface underneath. Scraping this off was not very efficient so I looked for a cleaning agent. I used alloy wheel cleaner, gave the inside a good spray left it for a few minutes then cleaned it out with carburettor cleaner then dryed it with a hair dryer. The result was a clean dis. cap and the poor tickover has gone. Thought this might help if you have not had any success. Regards, Clive (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 450 Registered: 2-2013 |
David give your car a thorough tuneup including ohms checking all your ignition leads. Driving it the way it is can lead to insanity especially in NJ traffic. If that does not cure the rough idling then take the car to Ultratune and they will perform an occiliscope check. If it passes that check you have a fuel problem possibly caused by a vacuum leak somewhere. Avoid ethanol mixture fuel like you would avoid the plague. Please post the offending gremlin when you locate it. | ||
| David Michael Leedy Experienced User Username: dleedy Post Number: 33 Registered: 11-2011 |
Hello: Thanks so much for the suggestions...The glowing coolant light is no longer an issue...Just topped it off with some coolant and poof that problem resolved..Also the brake like illuminating a couple extra seconds was also resolved by addinf a small amount of rr363. I will try the suggestion of cleaning the distributer cap and perhaps change it and the rotor..Before spending on a full blown tune-up....Would an aftermarket cap and rotor be better than cleaning up old (possibly original) one and if replacement is better, what is a good replacement brand that would be direct fit? I researched and saw some older Jags have interchangeable parts with RR? Thanks in advance.... | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 479 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi David in the past I have used after market distributor caps and I found them to be little better than rubbish I fitted a genuine cap and rotor arm and a new set of leads ( MAGIC ) Richard. | ||
| michael vass Prolific User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 120 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi David I have fitted rover v8 (p6 I think)dizzy caps and had no problems but much cheaper. The dizzy is Lucas so just take a pattern. Cheers Mike |
