| Author | Message | ||
     Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 124 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello, and ouch! The compressor on my 1984 Spirit (ECH 09680) has been rumbling for a couple of years, and is now noisier than the engine. I'm looking for a replacement but possible suppliers have asked me for the Rolls Royce part number - which I cannot find. Can anyone tell me what it is, please? Also the alternator - I suspect the diodes are causing the battery to go flat overnight if the isolator isn't switched off, and an exchange unit is the plan there - but what is the RR part number? Thank you ... stay well ,,, Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1448 Registered: 6-2009 |
Rod, It's shown in the spare parts catalog that you can access on the technical library. I'd actually taken a screenshot of the page and was getting ready to save and post when my computer decided to freeze up. You might also want to check the information about upgrading to the later Sanden compressor. Brian | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 374 Registered: 8-2007 |
Can it be that it's a generic Harrison A6? I do not want to say anything stupid, but I think it's just a generic GM tool? PS, Clutch bearing can be exchanged. Best regards, Lluís | ||
| Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Frequent User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 93 Registered: 9-2013 |
Rod, I second Lluis impression: you probably have a Harrisson A6, no need to dig into RR suppliers. I got and overhaul kit from the US, http://centuryautoair.com, make a google search for this or any other supplier. | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 125 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello Brian, thanks for response - I'm being a bit thick here, but where is this Technical Library, please? I have Tee-One Topics, but there are 94 editions, so where does one start? I would certainly upgrade to the Sanden if that's the way to go ... Thanks also to Lluis and JP, I'll pass the griff on to the potential suppliers! Where does one exchange the clutch bearing, please? That's the most likely candidate for the rumbling! Best wishes Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1452 Registered: 6-2009 |
Rod, You'll frequently see people refer to http://rrtechnical.info, and this is the RROC-Australia Post-War Technical Library. You will be specifically interested in the section dedicated to the SZ Series: Silver Spur & Spirit, Bentley Mulsanne, Turbos, Continental R & Derivatives (1980-2000). The full workshop and spare parts catalogs, along with a number of other technical documents, reside there. The respective chapters on the air conditioning system are quite clearly marked in the tables of contents. There is a supplement to chapter C that goes into the Sanden upgrade and there's also a supplement on the workshop manual page for the 20K series cars related to this upgrade as well. Certain things on the Post-War Technical Library are "hidden" quite well, but most of the materials there are, luckily, OCR scanned, which allows you to use a handy little feature of most internet search engines - the site: operator. If you want to search the technical library for all information (or all info that's in OCR files, anyway) related to the Sanden compressors, go to your preferred search engine and enter, "site:rrtechnical.info sanden", without the quotes. All the materials I've referred to above are returned via this search. Brian | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1453 Registered: 6-2009 |
Rod, Also, with regard to the RROC-Australia Tee-One Topics Archive, don't forget there is a Tee-One Topics Master Index. The index certainly can help you narrow down which issues you wish to look at for a given item of interest or problem. Brian | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 375 Registered: 8-2007 |
Exchanging the bearing might not be worth the case, as compressors go for 300-500 euro, but in case you really want, which is quite simple, simply dismantle the clutch and extract the old bearing with a puller. | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 126 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello everyone, thanks for further info, Brian, hopefully I can now find stuff - although I'm surprised that the aircon compressor is not a subject in T-1 Topics! Lluis - As the compressor rumble ceases when it's switched off, I now don't think it's the clutch bearing, so am more interested in a recon unit, presumably exchanged, and your assertion they can be had for around the 400 euro mark is interesting! My previous info was over a thousand, if available at all! Do you have a contact for a supplier, please? I am also interested in upgrading to the Sanden, but have not yet looked into what's involved. I imagine a new adapter mounting kit is required? What about connections? All go ... stay well ... Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 376 Registered: 8-2007 |
Yes wait... | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 377 Registered: 8-2007 |
450€ http://brabocars.com/cs_parts_list.php?brand=2&brandtype=69§ion=12 | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 378 Registered: 8-2007 |
Are you in DE or US? http://www.ebay.com/bhp/gm-a6-compressor | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 127 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello Lluis, and thank you. Never thought of Brabo, and they can do just about everything, it seems! In euros too. I'll look through the e-bay items as well, they seem to be very cheap! My compresor is a Harrison A6 with a twin belt drive pulley, which doesn't seem to match up, but no doubt there's a suitable model available ... I'm located in France, so easy enough - thanks again Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Frequent User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 95 Registered: 9-2013 |
Rod, Here's my recent experience with the A6 compressor, for whatever it is worth to you: like yours, it started to be noisier than the engine, and AC performance was drastically degraded. I went to have the system vacuumed and then refilled. The machine was only able to suck 300g out, and after the 30 minuted vacuum-test, I had it refilled to 1,3kg. Compressor ran silent thereafter again. Also, I wouldn't throw away yours, they are perfectly rebuildable and don't have the reputation to ''break''. Google ''Harrisson A6 overhaul''. | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 129 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hey JP! That's maybe worth a try! I found a repair shop that only charges €61 ttc to re-charge an a/c system, so not that bad ... it was last re-charged 3 years ago. No idea how long it's supposed to last? Right now it's noisy and doesn't do a lot of cooling - I did wonder about the fans. No end of things that could go wrong ... thanks! Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 131 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello to all - well, that didn't work! The shop tells me I have a damaged bearing, and a re-charge won't suffice. Brabo in Holland took a whole 3 minutes to reply to my query. They can supply a brand new replacement Harrison A6 that requires no modification - straight swap - and they don't want the old one back. But they said I would need a new drier? Why do I need a new drier? What is it, please? Is that Catch 22 - the compressor is cheap but the drier costs a fortune? Stay well ... Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 283 Registered: 5-2015 |
The A6 aircon compressor is bullet proof. When they wear they are rebuildable. The drier is required because it will have done its job of sucking damp out and be worn out. The drier is not that expensive. The suppliers of the compressor will void the warrantee with out it. Ask them for a drier as well. The replacement one is smaller and doesn't come from RR Crewe | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 132 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello Robert, and thank you. I am puzzled by this drier thing - why can't it be emptied out and put back on? Why is it suddenly unusable? Sorry if these are silly questions, but they don't seem silly to me! If the compressor hadn't packed up, presumably the drier would have gone on working, so why not with a new compressor? The price is significant - the compressor alone, with tax and delivery, comes to €565, but add in the drier and it's €832. Whine, moan ... not to mention the difficulty in getting the drier out, which is worse than changing the compressor! So a half-day job becomes a two day job. Hence my interest in why it needs changing ... Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 289 Registered: 5-2015 |
The drier is also a filter. The drier is a service item like other filters. The aircon will work with a worn out drier but the damp will react with R12 or 134a and form an acid which then wreaks the whole system gradually. Most evaporator and condenser leaks in the core are caused by acid rotting the metal. Also damp can freeze and block up expansion valve which can cause the high side to go even higher. I am afraid that a new drier is necessary. | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 133 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello Robert - OK, I'll take informed advice, thank you. If it's a service item, I wish they'd put it in a serviceable place! It's behind and slightly below the mineral oil tanks, so it looks a complicated and lengthy job to me. But at least I can get all the parts, and at a reasonable price! Thanks again Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Mark Aldridge Prolific User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 231 Registered: 10-2008 |
Rod, I think FS do a rebuild kit for the drier on your car for about Ł50. Mark | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 134 Registered: 1-2012 |
Thanks Mark, but decided on a new one - it might be worth having the old drier re-built, maybe the compressor too. While on, what oil is used in the compressor, do you know? I presume normal engine oil (currently 15W40 mineral), but I'm not certain. Also, when it's all done (roll on the day!), the aircon system will be empty - are there any special things to do, or just take her to a re-charge station and they fill it - I'll tell them it will be the initial charge. The new compressor and receiver/drier are en route from Brabo in Holland (I hope!) together with a set of seals/gaskets, as we propose to remove everything over the engine to fix the oil leak from the cam chest plate. It also affords an opportunity to re-build the Motorola alternator with its suspect diodes ... all Go, ennit? Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Mark Aldridge Prolific User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 237 Registered: 10-2008 |
Rod, You must use proper air conditioning compressor oil , matched to the type of gas you are using in the system. Brabo or your re-charge station will advise. DO NOT use engine oil . Mark | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 135 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello Mark, and thank you again! I'd have probably wrecked the new compressor ... emailed Brabo, who at once admitted the parts hadn't left because of a snaffu in the system, and who offered to fill the compressor with the correct oil in recompense. Very kind of them! UPS say they will be delivered on Thursday, so fingers crossed! Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Frequent User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 99 Registered: 9-2013 |
Rod, I'd be (very) interested in your old compressor. We have excellent beer and wine here in Luxembourg, feel like trading? A+, JP | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 391 Registered: 8-2007 |
Excellent beer is in Belgium... :-) Orval is not that far away right? | ||
| Larry Halpert Prolific User Username: larry_halpert Post Number: 162 Registered: 9-2003 |
Yes, at least its true that no one has to spend over €400, when even with shipping from the USA it wouldn't come anywhere near that when starting at $159. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/driveworks-reman-gm-a6-compressor-w-clutch-dw57088/5891531-P?searchTerm=dw57088&zoneAssigned=1&prefZC=11510 - Larry http://mutley.hypermart.net/RollsSubstituteParts.html | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 380 Registered: 5-2015 |
Mysterious meeting in Benelux for compressor exchange. Sounds like a plot from a spy novel. Rod if you google bmw and aircon there's a guy who explains aircon systems. Also check out other sites for technical info such as refrigerant boil points. At a guess I would say that your aircon knowledge is minimal. However aircon is actually very simple and once you know the basics mysterious things like boil points and pressure in aircon systems will become crystal clear. I did a 5 day course on aircon and within the first hour I had a very good grasp of the essentials. The actual fridge bit of my 1974 car is about as simple as car air gets apart from the 4 postion suction throttling valve. Once you know the technical stuff then apply it to your system | ||
| Mark Aldridge Prolific User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 238 Registered: 10-2008 |
Bob a poser for you; the aircon on my wife' 1988 Bentley 8 reads high side 150 psi , low side 15 psi, at engine speed approx. 1500 rpm, but cooling is minimal. R12 gas. I cant see the fault or the logic. The problem has existed for a couple of years but I am under pressure to sort it, as the aircon in my old Mulsanne is perfect ! Mark | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 392 Registered: 8-2007 |
Can it be the blend flaps Mark? You can cool as much as you want but mix it with hot air and it gets warm... I guess you know that cold and hot air are mixed in a climate control system? | ||
| Mark Aldridge Prolific User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 239 Registered: 10-2008 |
Lluis, I have checked the flaps and they are OK. I am not getting a large temp difference on the refrigerant pipes either. Certainly nothing like the difference I get with the Mulsanne. Mark | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 409 Registered: 5-2015 |
Pressure in air con systems is not the whole story. So many get confused about the pressure of stored gas. If a gas is compressed so that it does to liquid and stored as a liquid the pressure will remain the same when gas is used. The pressure drops in the container which causes the liquid gas to boil which then raises the pressure back to where it was before the system balances itself out. Just as the last bit of liquid gas boils then the pressure will drop quickly to zero. The only way to check the quantity of gas in the aircon system is to weigh it. The best way is to suck the gas out and weigh new gas as the system is charged. Pressure does not give an indication of quantity of refridgerant. First check that the heater is not on. Flaps etc. If the heater is not the problem. Check the condenser is not blocked with dead bugs. Then take the car to an aircon shop and get the fridge bit checked out. The top up cans are not a good idea because the system won't have been vacuumed and using a pressure gauge as a measure of quantity doesn't work. Do remember that Bentleys and Rolls-Royces have expensive bits and damaging the aircon could be expensive to put right. Antidotal stories of people using top up cans with no problems are oft quoted, but the owners then sell the car on a year later so how long the aircon lasted before something bad happened (usually the compressor seizing up) is any bodies guess. Having said that a Canadian company does R12a (refined lpg and compressor oil) top up cans. This is a drop in replacement for R12. It is inflammable but about the best refrigerant there is. It is illegal in the USA parts of Europe and Australia. | ||
| Mark Aldridge Prolific User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 240 Registered: 10-2008 |
Bob, interesting thoughts, we know the heater/ flaps are OK and the condenser is clean. I believe the high side pressure to be about right, but the low side , a bit low, which suggests a gas shortage, or a blockage in the system maybe expansion valve. I can get the system emptied and have facility myself to vac the system and refill with a dropin gas. However I do not want to have the R12 removed unless necessary as this is now unobtainable and by far the best gas for the RR system.an observation is that the compressor sounds harsh as revs rise. Mark | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 411 Registered: 5-2015 |
A blockage in the system would cause the high side to over pressurise. The harsh compressor could mean low on oil. The low side pressure is the compressor sucking. I would ask the aircon shop as to what pressure the low side should be. Shadows go down to 25 psi I think not sure. When the compressor is not running the high side and low side are the same pressure. When the compressor starts the compressor is living in the world of pressure. The compressor knows nothing of the outside atmosphere. For any gas to move there has to be a high pressure and a low pressure. High flows to low pressure. The liquid is pumped through and orifice. This restriction causes the difference in pressure. The liquid then goes into the evaporator which is at low pressure. The oressure is so low that the liquid boils into gas and as it changes to gas the gas draws heat energy from air blowing over the evaporator. Air con like engines and other bits need servicing. RR recommend 1 year intervals. But most don't until the system goes wrong or weak. My car aircon 1974 Shadow has not been serviced for over 27 years its now very weak. The fault is simply that the gas has leaked out over the years. 25 years is quite remarkable. If you have vacuum I would draw the system down to 29.4 inches. Then if legal charge with 3 cans of Canadian R12a lpg a mix of butane and propane. Plus the all important compressor oil. In my opinion the amount of lpg used in car air con is not enough to be dangerous except in exceptional circumstances like a sudden major evaporator explosion which is unlikely in a correctly serviced system. Some people have used cooking propane for car air con. This is not wise because lpg for cooking and auto gas has heavy ends which is like tar. The oil for the compressor for R12 is mineral based. The oil for R12a is also mineral because lpg is petroleum based. Also because lpg is a hydrocarbon the mineral oil is carried around easily by lpg. Which is not the case with all refrigerants such as R134a. Google lpg in car aircon and explosions. Funny that what comes up is about a guy showing his mates how safe lpg in car air con is. He discharged a bit of lpg in a car and lit a match. He got the ratio just right. The car blew up. Third degree burns. The Australian police nicked him for the stunt. Queensland Australia allows lpg in car air con I think. In a front ender the condenser gets ruptured. Most likely the lpg will rush out and disappear into the atmosphere. The chances of a fire ball are remote and the amount of gas in open air will only make a small fireball. Also lpg is such a good refridgerant that only half the amount is needed. R12 , not R12a, when burnt gives off phosgene gas and a wiff is dangerous. So safety wise swings and roundabouts.plus R12 and 134a are both inflammable when mix witg compressor oil. You are a sensible person so make your own mind up on the evidence and science. I understand your concern over the R12 you still have in the system because R12 is better than 134a. High pressures have been reported on some all makes cars converted to 134a. My system is still R12 and I don't want to go 134a. | ||
| Mark Aldridge Prolific User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 241 Registered: 10-2008 |
Bob, I use either RS24 or Isceon49 (R413a) drop in gas in place of R12. There are no oil complications, I use "Universal PAG oil which is ,according to specs, both 134a and R12 compliant. Mark | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 415 Registered: 5-2015 |
I couldn't find out much about RS 24 except that it appears to be HFC type frigerant which is a blend. R12a is a HC refrigerant 70% propane and 30 butane. The butane carries the oil. Blended refrigerants have different components with different molecular size. So as the gas leaks out over the years the blend changes. RS 24 needs changing every 3 years. The molecular size of R12a lpg is larger than R12 freon. This means that barrier type hoses are not needed. 134a molecular size is smaller than R12 freon. Leaks that weren't present with R12 then show up with 134a. Two drop in replacements come highly recommended for R12 systems. Red Tech and Duracool. Strangely the USA EPA. Dont allow Duracool in R12 systems. But allow it in 134a systems. So the R12 system must be converyed to 134a first. This is simply change the low pressure charge valve for a 134a one. Also a label should be afixed stating the type of refrigerant. Duracool do a kit which includes a label and the 134a connector and 3 x 6 oz cans. The shadow gas weight for R12a is about 16 oz. R12 lpg when mixed with water doesn't produce acid. But ice can still happen and block the expansion valve. This will cause the high side to go higher. So a high pressure cut out switch is needed. Which means that vacuuming is not entirely necessary. Aircon shops because of cross contaminating will not work on systems that are charged with anything that is not R12 or R134a. However us avid diyer fly in the face of all this EPA bull. Freon and R135a are patented. Lpg cannot be patented and costs about the same as a can of butane for blow lamps. DuPont claim that lpg will explode in a massive fire ball and kill every body nearby. When the Freon Patent ran out DuPont patented R134a. Note Butane has a boil point of minus 0.5c. Which makes it not suitable on its own for aircon but is the best gas to transport compressor oil. Hence the 30%. Note that the pressure needed to keep butane a liquid is quite low. Hence the appearance of can looking like an aerosol. Butane is also used in aerosols as a propellant. Propane goes liquid at much higher pressure hence bottles of propane use much thicker steel. Some people have used butane blow lamp cans to charge air con. The system will work but at reduced coldness. Lets us know how the RS24 goes and the exact procedure you used because your car is really a Bentley T3. The shadow manual has the various pressure stated. RS 24 is very close to R12 Freon pressure wise so the pressures stated in the Shadow manual are near enough. My aircon is barely working meaning it still has R12 in it which is a problem. So a aircon guy is going to evacuate the system down to 29.4 inches hg. He gets to keep the R12. Used R12 recovered from scrap cars is dodgy because who knows what other stuff had been used in the systems. British Oxygen Company, BOC do reclaimed and scrubbed R12. A method of charging not using weight. Put the gas in then thermometer in the cold air vent inside the car. Add gas until the temperature starts to invrease then remove gas until the temp starts to drop and its done. Note that the weight of gas is not crucial and an ounce to much or too little won't make much difference. Oil is important though. Also in the manual is how much oil to add for a given part change such as the dryer. | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 136 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello, and Wow! I have read everything and am more confused than ever! My new aircon compressor for my 1984 Spirit arrived, complete with new receiver/drier. Weighs a TON! It's an 'Omega' and comes filled with 10oz: of 125 PAG oil - which my aircon shop says is not compatible with their recharge stuff. My mechanic friend says they're talking rubbish. Now what do I do? Sorry if this is a dim question, but should the heating work without the compressor running? Another thing, there seems to be no way of demisting without the compressor running. Is that right? Still struggling ... stay well Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Mark Aldridge Prolific User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 242 Registered: 10-2008 |
Rod,all of the functions on my 1983 Mulsanne work with the aircon compressor switched off( I fitted a toggle switch so that I can switch the compressor off, giving me an economy setting as on the post 1986 cars.) With regard to oil and gas, take advice of which gas to use from the compressor supplier. I thought PAG oil was for 134a gas, but I am only an enthusiastic amateur mechanic.(Accountant by profession and many years ago Ballroom Dancer) Mark | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 423 Registered: 5-2015 |
The heating should work without aircon. The demist will work but slower without the dehumidification that the aircon takes care of. My Jeep when on demist automatically turns the aircon on. The demister takes 30 seconds to clear the glass. Due to the way the warranty will read you must take advice from the supplier of the compressor, in case the compressor goes wrong. In general this means only 134a can be used along with the correct oil and barrier hoses. What is often ignored is that aircon will also dehumidify the car. I use the aircon on cars in the winter to suck the damp out of cars. Its surpising how much damp gets in cars. 4 people in a car produce a lot of damp breath. I am still trying to get the gen on RS24. | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 137 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello Mark and Robert - until we can get round to fitting the new compressor to Echo, I propose to disconnect the existing damaged unit by pulling the plug that presumably engages the electric clutch. Thus, switching on the aircon should allow everything else to function that can function without the compressor? I also propose to assume the new Omega compressor from Brabo is filled with the correct oil for the car (125 PAG), and will enquire at another aircon station if they have the correct refrigerant gas for it (which could well be R134a?). Thanks to everyone for the help - what I thought would be a relatively simple job is becoming something of a technical nightmare! Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Mark Aldridge Prolific User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 244 Registered: 10-2008 |
Bob I used RS24 for about 5 years in my Shadow;straight swap from R12 after a hose leaked.The compressor had always been slightly noisy,and I acquired a nearly new compressor which had run on 134a. I changed the oil to PAG universal (according to the suppliers r12 and 134a compliant)fitted a compressor cycling conversion in place of the STV, and have used Isceon 49for about 6 years since as this was easily obtained. R12 is still the coldest, but now unobtainable and illegal to refill.However the substitutes are good and seem colder than my old Spirit was on 134a. | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 430 Registered: 5-2015 |
R12 is not illegal to use. Making R12 is illegal. The Chinese are making R12. But knowing them they probably sell lpg as R12. | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 138 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello again - OK, it would seem that 125 PAG compressor oil is compatible with R134a refrigerant, and also with R413, known as Dupont Isceon 49 ... Am I right in this? It's only extrapolation on my part from what (to me) is a very confusing subject! Thanks for the help, folks ... stay well Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Mark Aldridge Prolific User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 245 Registered: 10-2008 |
Rod, this is what I use in my Shadow 1, with Isceon49 gas.https://www.koolairconsupplies.com/fjc-2468-pag-oil-universal-8-oz-250ml-2601.html The 125 weight is ,I guess the compressor suppliers recommended grade for your compressor. They will also confirm which gas is to be used in their compressor. Mark | ||
| Todd weston Yet to post message Username: toddy Post Number: 1 Registered: 3-2016 |
Hi guys New member here asking questions. My 85 spirits air con has stopped getting cold . There's a bit of green oil coming from the front and rear of the compressor, does this mean this unit is finished , and I require a new one or can they be repaired , any help at all would be very appreciated Kind regards | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 154 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello Todd - the usual reason for the loss of cooling capacity is lack of coolant - though in this weather I don't expect it to happen anyway! Does the heater work OK? Does the compressor 'rumble' (as opposed to 'hum')? In my case the compressor rear bearing was shot, but I had no oil leakage - I think it may be the seals on the back of the unit leaking - new O-rings would stop that. I don't know about the front end. A brand new American-made Omega compressor from Brabo (Holland), directly interchangeable with the Harrison A6 you probably have, will set you back less than 600 euros and no part exchange. Cheaper from the States, but you'd have to change the clutch assembly. I wouldn't consider this until I'd fixed the leaks and re-charged the gas (you need an auto aircon gas recharge station for that). But don't expect much in the way of cooling when the outside temperature is in single figures! Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Roderick Waite Prolific User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 155 Registered: 1-2012 |
Hello Todd - just realised you may be in Australia, so your lack of cooling is almost certainly due to lack of coolant gas. So first fix the oil leak at the back (2 new O-rings) and then re-charge the system. Stay well ... Rod '84 Spirit | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 536 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear Todd, We need a few photos of the leak and we also need a few questions answered: Does the compressor engage when the air con is switched on? If it does engage - does it make a noise? If it doesn't engage does it have sufficient gas in the system? If there is no gas (or low gas) the compressor will not engage. Thanks Omar | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1461 Registered: 6-2006 |
If green oil is leaking out it will have probably had a leak tracer dye added to the gas at some point. Have a look on ebay for a UV torch then at a darkish time. Check all the pipes and compressor etc. For leaks. If oil is leaking out then the gas will have definitely leaked out as well. Low gas and oil levels will make the compressor noisy. Is it the pipe seals at the rear leaking or between the back plate and the cylinder body? Wash off existing dye with brake cleaner or similar. Has it been converted to 134a gas. | ||
| Todd weston New User Username: toddy Post Number: 2 Registered: 3-2016 |
Thank you guys for all your help will look into all the question you've asked , Much appreciated Respect Todd |
