| Author | Message | ||
     Glynn Frequent User Username: glynn Post Number: 19 Registered: 5-2004 |
Hi all, I have some play in the rear wheel bearing to the near side, how do I go about tightening it ? if this is possible. All advise would be wellcomed. Thanks Glynn | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 638 Registered: 4-2003 |
Glynn, The adjustment is not difficult in itself BUT the work to get there is fairly heavy duty. You must first remove the half shaft: easily done with a 3/8 Allen socket on later cars with Lobro CV joints. You can use a 10mm and file it down a bit as I did. Cars before chassis 8400 have Detroit ball and trunnion joints and Hardy Spicer joints: they are easy to remove with normal socket spanners. So far so good. Now for the really tricky bit. To remove the hub drive flange on Shadows and SZs before 54,000 apart from Turbos is rather a nasty job. Post-30,000 series non-Turbos are a little easier though. I’ll describe the procedure for Shadows and pre-30,000-series non tirbos. Later cars have a circlip to remove, and the torques incolved are far lower as the drive shafts are splined and not tapered. You need to bend the nut indent back, apply the brakes very firmly (Don'r revove the caliper before the nut is off !!), and use a huge large-drive socket spanner to undo the hub nut (right hand thread). It will take 1,000 ft.lb to crack it !! Then you will need a decent puller to get the drive flange off the shaft. Collect the Woodruff key. Now, remove the eleven setscrews securing the drive shaft to the brake disc / rotor /hub and remove the shaft from inside the hollow stub axle (no puller required). If you are at all suspicious of the bearing, it’s best to replace them after all this prep work. You can now remove the bearing play using a 0.003” feeler gauge. Reassemble using a new Woodruff key, a new bearing nut and a new hub nut. Also use a new o-ring between the drive shaft and the brake rotor /hub assembly, and a felt washer or oil seal depending on the model. The hub flange nut must be torqued to a massive 500 lb.ft (Turbos just (80 lb.ft with the splines). However, given the work done already, I strongly recommend at least inspecting and repacking the wheel bearing. The roller cages are known to fracture after very high mileages, So: Remove the ABS sensor and unplug it where fitted. Next, depressurise the brakes, disconnect the brake lines at the caliper, plug them, loosen the brake caliper, loosen the hub-to-trailing arm securing bolts (inside the hubs) 4 turns, and remove the caliper. Now you can loosen the wheel bearing nut and remove the hub to replace or repack the bearings. As they say at Crewe, assembly is a reversal of the above with care etc etc. The above procedure, along with new caliper seals, took me 4 hours, but I didn’t need the puller or huge socket spanner as mine is a Turbo thank goodness. I found that a slight wheel bearing clicking noise in reverse was due to a failing roller cage. RT. |
