| Author |
Message |
    
Dwayne Kennemore
New User
Username: dkennemo
Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, 31 December, 2003 - 15:59: |    |
Bill, can you suggest a good source for aftermarket rear springs on a Silver Shadow I (SRE 22609) in the USA? How about a part number? |
William H. Trovinger II
Prolific User
Username: bill_trovinger
Post Number: 58
Registered: 8-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, 31 December, 2003 - 16:47: | |
Dwayne;
It seems from all your posts that you are looking for more than a few items. I can not say anything about them as I have not used either but have seem other people post them as possible sources:
http://www.motorcarsltd.com/resetsession.epc
http://www.rolsfix.com/
And these guys I have used for lights on several cars but they do handle other parts:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/classicgarage/index.html
Best of Luck,
Bill
|
Peter Senn (203.166.57.11)
| | Posted on Wednesday, 06 November, 2002 - 14:59: | |
I have just puchased a 1973 Silver Shadow. The car is in very good original condition and everything works well except the two "eye ball" fresh air vents. Both of these have become disconnected from there respective actuating rods. Although I have looked and pondered,I have not twigged how to remove the facia to gain access without risking damage to the dashboard. Can anyone help? |
Bill Coburn (203.51.30.137)
| | Posted on Wednesday, 06 November, 2002 - 21:42: | |
That's a fairly easy one Peter. The veneered facia is held on with two or three countersunk domed screws in countersucnk washers. But before removing them you need a very small allen key to undo grub screws on the end of the eyeball actuating knobs. Don't lose the screws. Some cars however had the knobs held on with spring plungers which can be pushed in and the knobs slid off. Not having one in front of me I am taxing the memory but you may have to remove the facia panel on the driver's side first as there may be screws under that holding the side of the other panel down. The panels may stick to the main board if they have not been disturbed but you can usually work your finger into the instrument holes and pull them out from the top. They may also catch on the top roll which can be pushed up to free them. I can send you more detail by FAX if you require it. As to the eyeball the whole assembly for each is screwed to the main panel and removal and reconnection should be straight forward. |
Peter Senn (203.166.57.11)
| | Posted on Thursday, 07 November, 2002 - 15:26: | |
Thanks Bill, I will give it a try tonight. When I tried, the veneer facia came free after undoing the two countersunk screws, but I could not remove it out of the bottom as it jambed on the top padding roll. This time I will try a bit more force to lift the roll - as a new owner I am a bit timid at the moment. I will also undo the grue screws, which I had not noticed before.
I will let you know how I go. Thanks again, Peter |
Richard Treacy (62.202.252.213)
| | Posted on Thursday, 07 November, 2002 - 17:59: | |
I have don this many times too ('72 T-series and '87 Turbo R). It is required to adjust the clock unless you have retrofitted a quartz clock (recommended) or to replace the instrument light bulbs. Follow Bill's advice. Once the grubscrews are out and the organ knobs are off, push the rods fully in, move the facia out gently and lift it firmly upwards. The procedure is the same for cars from 1969 to 1998. |
Peter Senn (203.166.57.11)
| | Posted on Friday, 08 November, 2002 - 09:12: | |
Yes, had I read the Drivers Manual regarding bulb changing I would not have been so timid. Once the facia was off I removed the panel lamp control for the passenger side and the wiper cotrol for the drivers side. On the passenger side there is a pin missing that links the control rod to the vent flap. With mirosurgery I am confident that I can make that one work again, but the drivers side is some thing different. The rod has become unscrewed from the arm that links to the flap. However because there is an insulating tube protection the wiring to the wiper control you cannot access the mechanism to align it and screw it back together. It would appear that you need to remove the top padding completly to gain unfettered access. I think that will have to wait for another day - a plastic knitting needle will have to do for a while to open or shut the flap. With summer it will stay open for the next 6 months at least, which will give me time to learn more about how the car is put together. Thankyou for responding.
Now to the next question - I had forgotten, as I have not driven for a few weeks as I am having some chroming done, is that the heater valve remains open. The electrics work, the valve rotates, but does not shut off - thank goodness the A/C works a treat! Is there a generic replacement, can it be disassembled, are there points that I should be aware of?? Questions, questions. Regards, Peter |
Bill Coburn (203.51.30.137)
| | Posted on Friday, 08 November, 2002 - 13:17: | |
Well Peter if you don't ask questions /.............!! The top roll is not a problem. Having got the facias off, open the glove box and you will find an aperture in the top which with the aid of a mirror you can find one or two (I forget) 7/16" A/F nuts and washers. These can be removed with a small socket. The top of the roll you will see is held on by a number of brackets to the basic board - these undo. Down to the bottom of the roll either side and again with a mirror you will find screws screwing the assembly to the A pillar. If getting to them is awkward look at removing the trim around the handbrake (another screw and washer) and the cubby box under the glove box. The roll should then simply lift off. This is a good time to glue back all those ends that have lifted off and repair the bits around the bonnet release where drivers insist on pulling the surround and not the lever. Clean all the instruments, polish the wood, reverse your vacuum cleaner and blow the dust out from behind the board. As to the heater, disconnect the hoses to the tap and push in appropriate size bolts and tighten the hose clamps. Remove the entire tap assembly and pull it to pieces. Sounds as tho' the rubber plug inside has completely failed. The tap certainly looks similar to your common garden variety the latter are available but I have yet to repair one (I have at least three to do!). But while you are contemplating the problem you will have no heat. If you need heat simply wack a piece of pipe in between the two hoses and tighten them up. When all is well again regard the tap to heater and block hoses they are under a lot of pressure, deteriorate and should be replaced every two years. |
Peter Senn (203.166.57.12)
| | Posted on Friday, 08 November, 2002 - 14:39: | |
Bill, RR are great a hiding fixing points, so thank for the directions on where to look. Heat not a problem is SA at the moment and with summer well on the way I d'not have to rush to replace the tap. I can see quite a few more late nights coming up, playing as my wife likes to put it.
Thanks,
Peter |
Peter Senn (203.166.57.11)
| | Posted on Monday, 11 November, 2002 - 08:47: | |
Bill, your instructions worked a treat. The vents are fixed and every thing is back together. I will now tackle the water tap this week. Now that we are on a roll I have two more questions. Firstly where can I get some material to cover the sound insulation under the bonnet. My black covering is a bit tatty and Marie (my wife) has offered to sew on a new covering, but what to use that will tolerate the heat. Secondly, how can I adjust the levelling height. Marie and I are tallish and I would like the back up about an inch or so. Peter |
Bill Coburn (203.51.30.137)
| | Posted on Tuesday, 12 November, 2002 - 16:26: | |
Peter you are very welcome. I am sure the bonnet pads are re-coverable and I will see if I can find out what the material is. I have been told it is silk being the best resistant to fire etc. The current price of new ones in Sydney by the way is $1600 plus the cost of new clips. At the same time the spare parts people can't remember buying new ones so there must be a secret alcove of gnomes madly re-covering the pads somewhere.
As to the rear height problem you should be aware that we all droop a bit with age and Shadows are no exception. The springs are very long and relatively soft. They can be removed and packing pieces put on top of them to lift the car if the sag is not too great and someone has not been in there before you! The best solution today seems to be to toss the things out and install aftermarket units which are a fraction of the cost of originals, give a better ride, far better handling and lift the car to a respectable height very quickly.
Do not fall for the trap of using the rear levelling to get the right height. Assuming your number two system has a minimum developed pressure of about 1400 psi you can adjust the levelling valves to squash the springs down a bit and lift the car, and all seems well with the world. But in a small while the rams will as likely start to leak and you have another job on your hands.
The easy assessment of height on these cars is that with the rams exhausted (pump the brakes until both system lights come on) and the car unloaded you should be able to slide your hand in over the rear tyres with the back of your hand scraping the underside of the mudguard arch. Before checking roll the car back and forth to allow the rear suspension to spread itself as the rear camber has an inherant lifting effect.
Sagging rear springs should not be ignored. The rear axles drive through constant velocity joints either side of the differential carrier. They are not designed to run continuously at an angle which occurs with rear end sag. Damage will follow. In fact that is why I am told the system of levelling was put in - not to cope with the effect of filling the petrol tank!!!!!
Changing the rear springs is not difficult. The rear axle check straps which stop the car showing too much under its skirts are bolted to the floor under the rear passengers. Disconnect them and the rear universal joints and tie the half shafts out of the way. Disconnect the height control valves from the trailing arms and ensure they are not pulled or pushed beyond their normal span of travel.
Borrow buy or steal some good spring clamps and clamp up the springs comfortably. Undo the bottom of the shock absorber and lower the trailing arm. The spring should then be able to be lifted out of the car.
Reverse all this to get it all back. But first get the car sitting on the springs on its wheels to see the results of your efforts. Leave out all but one of the packing rings with the new springs. Put the thing back on its wheels roll it back and forwards and normally the car will sit too high. Not a bad fault. Connect up axles check straps and height control valves. The latter should be gently pushed up with the engine running and the car sitting level on the ground until you feel resistance. Lock them at that point. Any further and the system starts levelling.
Well all that as a crash course. Get in touch if you require more.
Cheers |
Peter Senn (203.166.57.11)
| | Posted on Wednesday, 13 November, 2002 - 16:53: | |
Bill,
I'm still thinking about this one, as it is all new ground for me. I looked at another car today and it looked correct where as mine does seem a bit down at the back, but I want to go back to the RR mechanic that told me all was well first, and find out what he has to say. Peter |
Peter Senn (203.166.57.11)
| | Posted on Friday, 15 November, 2002 - 08:35: | |
Bill, Worked on the heater last night, after a lot of contortions, I managed to disconnect the pipes and get the valve out. Of course at this point I found all that was wrong was that the adjustment of the actuating rod was not quite correct so the valve was not being shut off completely. On-well, it better than having to re-build or replace it. Re the springs, it does need a magic blue pill to give it a lift. Where do source the correct replacements springs? are they a special or just from a spring manufacturer? Peter |
Bill Coburn (203.51.30.137)
| | Posted on Sunday, 17 November, 2002 - 16:29: | |
Sorry Peter where are you? |
Peter Senn (203.166.57.11)
| | Posted on Tuesday, 19 November, 2002 - 13:28: | |
Bill, I'm in South Australia. I saw on that you could e-mail Adelaide Spring's for a quote. I did so last Friday, but nothing yet. Peter |
Bill Coburn (139.134.57.153)
| | Posted on Sunday, 24 November, 2002 - 00:08: | |
Right Peter I am in Melbourne at the moment and should be back next week where I can get your info. Cheers |
Bill Coburn (203.51.30.134)
| | Posted on Tuesday, 26 November, 2002 - 09:31: | |
For Peter Senn. The springs for the rear of your Shadow at available from K-MAC in Rockdale Sydney phone 1300 132 673. They cost about $300 for the pair and in my experience are ideal for the car. |
Peter Senn (203.26.206.10)
| | Posted on Wednesday, 22 January, 2003 - 12:45: | |
For Bill Coburn, Hi Bill, sorry for not getting back sooner. From our last correspondance I have fixed everything except the rear springs. After a lot of procrastination, when I was thinking of having them replaced professionally, I finlly got under the car with your instructions in hand. I can see that you are right and that the job will not be to difficult, so have ordered from Sydney, as suggested. Thanks for the guidance. The more I do, which is fortunately only little things, the more pleased I am with being the owner of such an amazingly engineered car. |
Bill Coburn (203.51.25.155)
| | Posted on Friday, 24 January, 2003 - 07:32: | |
Peter it is great to see you having a go. The cardinal rule is safety. Jack the car up quite high to give yourself plenty of working space and support the car with sill blocks ahead of the front wheels. Best use a trolley jack - the 1500K cheepies are adequate for the job- to lower the trailing arms. Take the time to give the whole area a damn good clean and use a rust remover to get the inevitable cancer out of the system and follow up with nice spray can enamel. Make sure you get the springs central in their holders and before bolting anything up give the car a very good bounce to settle things down. You will notice that the new springs are shorter than the old ones. No worry what they lack in length they make up in grunt. We have just popped a new set in an old '72 model and it has transformed the car! Good luck |
Peter Senn (203.166.57.12)
| | Posted on Monday, 03 February, 2003 - 11:55: | |
For Bill Coburn,
Jobs done! and as you said it does transform the car and makes it look right, not drooping at the rear. Also much better for accessing the boot. The only thing is, do I need to set the self levelling, as there is about a 1cm lift when the car is running? If so how does one go about it?
Thanks, I feel very pleased with myself for having done it.
Regards, Peter |
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