| Author | Message | ||
     Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 498 Registered: 1-2008 |
after a long hibernation (that's SRH24518) and she runs like a sick pig farrowing an oversize litter. Fortunately I intend to fit - or have fitted - the full closed circuit LPG setup soon, although I may have to nip up a couple of exhaust manifold bolts on the right hand side or even replace the gaskets ... again! In the meantime the brake pedal stays down and the brakes almost fully on when I use them. It comes back up with virtually no resistance if pulled up, but not otherwise. I'm assuming that it's a lack of lubrication somewhere, but where? I may even have an issue with one or more calipers sticking which is a complete PITA as I completely overhauled the whole system not 2 years ago. Apart from the surfaces of the discs (rotors in Yank speak) is there much to indicate that a spray of WD40 to all relevant components might do any harm? | ||
| Geoff Wootton Prolific User Username: dounraey Post Number: 283 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Jan On the symptom of the brakes being fully applied under the weight of the brake pedal alone, I would first take the cover off the rat-trap and check the brake pedal return springs have not come adrift or lost their "springiness". Secondly, as your car is listed as a late SY-I I would check the condition of the rear brake master cylinder and re-bleed it. I agree with you, it is possible that the pivots in the rat-trap have become seized with lack of use and that both the resistance of the return spings and master cylinder are being overcome by this factor. In any case, I believe a visit underneath the car (to the rat trap) is required. Geoff | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 499 Registered: 1-2008 |
Just what I was hoping wouldn't be the case. However even as an SY1 she doesn't have a master cylinder since she relies on the later distribution valve as fitted to the SY2's. Just another of the quiet upgrades applied to the SY1 over its 22 year production lifespan. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Prolific User Username: dounraey Post Number: 284 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Jan Yes - I forgot that the later SY-I's dispensed with the master cylinder. Being close to the sill, the rat-trap is easily accessed and the cover easy to remove. If it's your arthritis that's putting you off, maybe you could enlist the help of a son/daughter/relative/neighbour. Geoff | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 500 Registered: 1-2008 |
Getting into the rat trap shouldn't be too onerous as I replaced all the screws the last time I was under there. Also she's now on a hard standing that's actually on my property meaning I can even use the hydraulic jack and axle stands. Unfortunately today has been impossible as the ticker has been so dicky that I daren't even take a shower! Not even got dressed or sorted out anything for my Sunday lunch and it's already 20:14 here in Blighty. Think I'll deflower a couple of tinnies followed by one or three snifters of bourbon and have an early night. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1097 Registered: 6-2006 |
Jan, the pivots can seize so it may just be that. Fingers crossed. Regarding bad running - I would sort that out first before fitting the LPG. Is there old fuel in the tank? Dash pots sticky or corrosion inside? | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 501 Registered: 1-2008 |
I'm now considering that the air cleaner may be blocked as, with the engine up to temperature, manually closing and opening the choke flap makes no discernible difference to the idle rpm or smoothness. That's on petrol or LPG - although the latter may be trifle smoother. It's hard to say for certain. Before you ask: No, the air trunking is still pristine as I replaced it about 18 months ago with a vastly superior, but visually similar wire supported type. With almost 96K miles on the clock I'm also considering sleeving the carb throttle spindle bushes and/or replacing the spindles themselves. The linkages between the carbs could be the next on 'the list' as they are obviously a bit worn and sloppy. I would prefer to change them for a custom bowden cable and spring arrangement, but I'm not sure how practical that might be. Personally I think it's a fallacy that old or 'stale' petrol makes much of a difference to the running of a well fettled engine. My little Honda engined Rover 216 Cabrio came with a nearly full tank of unleaded which had been in there for 5 years. Once I'd fitted a new battery it started up first turn of the key and immediately settled down to an even idle. Once up to temperature the noise level was, and still is, no louder than an electric sewing machine. Not bad considering that I paid little more for the car than the value of petrol in the tank! | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 589 Registered: 6-2009 |
Jan, Here's one more voice chiming in that "stale" gas being the cause of all sorts of issues appears to me to be a either a fallacy or greatly overhyped. In the case of LRK37110 I drained the tank because that's what I was instructed to do, replaced the main fuel filter, etc., and it didn't make an iota of difference. The drained gas was used in our various motors (lawn mowers, tractors, etc.) and all worked fine on it. I've never in my life used Stabil (or similar) "fuel stabilizers" and, based on the fact that all the engines still turned over and ran without a hitch, don't see any need to do so. This is for storage periods generally between one and seven months, but I've had occasion to be around cars that have been stored for years that ran just fine on the gas that had been stored with them. This is another of those issues where I think the various "camps" will not be moved, but I thought another voice from the wilderness letting you know that you're not alone might be welcome. Brian |
