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Michael Hicks
Prolific User
Username: bentleyman22

Post Number: 125
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Friday, 28 November, 2014 - 01:00:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi 1997 Turbo T
Has any Body changed the steel oil cooler pipes
running along the Engine Block?
or has any body removed the cat?
Michael
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Omar M. Shams
Grand Master
Username: omar

Post Number: 441
Registered: 4-2009
Posted on Friday, 28 November, 2014 - 04:52:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I have removed the steel pipes from my 91 scarp Turbo R. I had all sorts of access. it was very easy to do. 91 is not the same as 97, I think the 97 has a different flexible part at the cooler end. Still straight forward.
I have not touched the Cat though.
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Michael Hicks
Prolific User
Username: bentleyman22

Post Number: 126
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Friday, 28 November, 2014 - 06:19:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Omar
the pipes ether hit the steering rack or the cat so as to get them in I can remove the cat or lift the motor up off its mountings or drop the Rack !!!!
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Bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 94.197.122.93
Posted on Friday, 28 November, 2014 - 09:14:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Solid pipes ( as opposed to flex hoses) are nearly always awkward.

Try flexing the pipe without actually bending it.

I would try not to move engine mountings because they are carefully factory set.

Best remove exhaust bits. Have new cat flange bolts available. Any bolts that won't play cut them because it is easy to crack the cat core with a misplaced hammer blow.

If the pipes are to be replaced, mine were rusty but are fitted more to the body than the engine, just cut them.

These pipes can be easily made by any hydraulic shop for a cheap price in a variety of materials. Stainless is nice. If going copper route only use copper nickel aka cunifer.

Brass nuts work best in this application.

Autobox specialists will also have all the kit and material to make the pipes.

Incidently when pipes such as these are ordered from an official source, the supplier will use the specification of the pipe and get one made by their local pipe shop. So the quality of genuine pipes is no better than what you local pipe shop would make.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Michael Hicks
Prolific User
Username: bentleyman22

Post Number: 127
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Saturday, 06 December, 2014 - 01:02:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi To You All
Well I have Changed both pipes and all so put some Rubber Hose around The pipes so That I don’t Have to do them Again.
Thanks to Omar for His input and BoB
On the cars with cats I had to remove the Exhaust centre pipes
There are 2 Heat covers on the Suspension torsion bar that had to come off.
And Drop the steering rack. there is a Heat Shield for the oil level sender unit in the sump that has to come off as well and then rigel the pipes in place Not Fun and lots of skin missing
By Loosning the Exhaust cross pipe I could get on the Bolts with a 19 m Ring Spanner for the (Rack bolts) that was the fun bit

Also I notice that the pipe from the steering pinion Housing to the Rack it was very Rusty so replaced that as well
so that is it for a bit
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Bob UK
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 94.197.122.72
Posted on Saturday, 06 December, 2014 - 07:11:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Fortunately for us SY owners we don't have cats. My transmission pipes go from the gear box to the body then up and over the front subframe to the rad, and apart from right-hand wheel removal reasonably quick if the body clips come undone, which they don,t.

I shall do a general purpose car pipe work. See miscellaneous

(Message approved by david_gore)